Hi Mike: Steering ratio is a function of helm pump size, hydraulic cylinder size, and tiller arm length.

It is usually hard to find helm pumps with enough capacity to get the ratio down to anything reasonable. Hence, the photo of the chain drive from the helm to "overdrive" the helm pump in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia.

If you have a pressurized system, such as the Hynautics one we used on Beowulf and Wind Horse, it is possible to fill from the reservoir tank in the engine room. But getting air out at the helm pump can be difficult. So allow for bleed valves and/or a way to catch the oil as it oozes out in the bleeding process.

Otherwise, if filling the pump itself (at the highest point), there has to be an access door through the pedestal, or if the pump is below the cockpit sole, you need a way to fill through the plug on top. – Steve

Hi Melanie: Easy part first – servo pendulum wind vanes are the most powerful and what we have preferred ourselves (much more on the subject of wind vanes in our Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia).

As to what would be best for an O’Day 22, that is a tougher question. Because of the small size you might need to find something a little different – the typical wind vane might be too big. I’d check with some of the vendors to see what they recommend. One of them is Scanmar at http://www.selfsteer.com/ Good Luck – Steve

Hi Howard: There are several issues at play. First is the alloy of the rudder stock. If this is 6061 or 6063, it would be best to anodize because of long-term corrosion under water. 5083/6 is not so sensitive and you can get away with using it bare (it is also stronger).

As to wear, while the anodized surface is indeed harder, both alloys will wear on the UHMW before the aluminum sheds material.

Bottom line–if you can anodize without busting the budget, I would do so.

Hi Keith: I would look for an Aires servo pendulum vane. Great unit, lots of them made. They steer like a champ. As to where to find one, that is a bit tougher. I would start with a "Google" web search for "Aries Wind Vane" or maybe "Nick Franklin" who used to build them. Monitor makes a modern version of the Aries in stainless, but they are going to be more costly and are no more functional.

I know they turn up from time to time as my daughter found one some years ago on a boat in Mexico and added it to her boat. Good Luck – Steve

This is a tricky question. We’ve used both hydraulic and cable steering. In your case, with such a heavy boat and huge rudder, which I assume is keel attacked and therefore not counter-balanced, hydraulic with power assist is probably the way to go.

We very much like the pilots that Will Hamm builds–extremely powerful gear and reliable, fairly priced. We’re just working with his gear on our latest project. My suggestion would be to contact Will at 206 780 2175 and see what he suggests. He can supply a complete system. Regards – Steve

Hi Jim: There is a section in our Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia about this. Steering problems, typically blamed on rudders, are usually the result of something else that is going on. If the designer is at a loss, then I would look for another multihull designer who knows his business.

Increasing size and/or getting counter balance right is not difficult. The bigger question will be your rudder shafts, and how much load they can take. This will limit what you can do, unless you put in bigger rudder shafts.

If they have enough meat on them, I’d just slap on some foam and fiberglass. You can probably do this for less cost than what a good designer would charge to evaluate the problem and design new rudders for you.

Re counterbalance, we usually use between 17 and 19%. Varies with the rudder shape, proximity of the props, and if the rudders are buried below the hulls or not. Good luck – Steve

Hi David: Tough question…. The first issue is how easily your boat is steered under adverse conditions. The more grunt it takes, the more you need in the pilot. Most tiller pilots do not do a good job in difficult conditions, unless the boat is very well balanced, and the loads are light. My own feeling is that self steering system is more important than inverters, spinnakers, big dinghies, or anything else which is not on the critical for heavy weather sailing/anchoring list. So, I’d tend to go with the most powerful pilot you can afford before a lot of other gear. Steve

Hi Claudio: This is a big subject–one could write a whole book on this alone! Basically, you need to experiment. Every boat and set of wind/sea conditions is different. Have several lengths/weights of bungee cord to play with–and half a dozen small blocks. Usually some form of small headsail–a staysail or storm jib is used to supply the steering pressure. Good Luck – Steve

Hi Howard: Actually, we do cover the basics on pages 60-61 – with a lot more detail on autpilots as they are a lot more difficult to decide on. Re: vanes, on smaller boats, where not a lot of motoring is required, they make the most sense. We like the servo pendulum types ourselves – Aires, Monitor types. We used an Aries on our 50-footer – which was a pig to steer in strong winds – and it did very well (especially in a black Southwester in the Aghulas Current coming to Durban many years ago). On the other hand, if you are going to be doing a lot of motoring, a reliable pilot makes the best sense to us – because it works when powering and when sailing. But you need a powerful, well built unit (we like WH Pilots from Bainbridge, Washington, USA). Regards – Steve

Hi Mark and Janet: Re: a back up for your Autohelm – this is a tough question. The safest route is to back the system up with a servo-pendulum wind vane (not an auxiliary rudder type) and have it drive your emergency tiller – which I assume comes through the deck aft of the aft cabin. This approach gives you an efficient system for when it is really blowing, where it is likely the Autohelm may not handle your steering loads – and a back up in case of power failure (or a lightening hit which wipes out electronics). This is the approach we took on our smaller boats. The alternate is to just get a second Autohelm. If you are doing this, it is best to back up all the components, but not install them. Instead, stow them in some method where they have protection from the magnetic pulse which often accompanies a nearby lightening hit.

Regarding the photo of the kids on Practical Seamanship – they were five and eight at this time, and the photo was taken inside the lagoon at Takaroa in the Tuamotus – flat calm. At sea, they were not allowed out of the cabin without a harness and tether, before they ascended the companionway steps. As there was a lot of running up and down, both Sarah and Elyse usually left on their harnesses. We had extra long tethers with which the kids could sit in the saloon and play, or use the cockpit. Steve Dashew