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We have just had the most amazing four months of cruising. (This post was written in 2008, after voyaging from California to the UK.)California to Panama, then the Bahamas, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Labrador, Greenland, and now Ireland: 10,000 nautical miles have enjoyably<\/em> slipped under our keel.<\/p>\n “Imagine cruising at an average speed of 12 knots from New Zealand to California without refueling. Just one of the astonishing facts that emerged from my day aboard Wind Horse.” In all our years of seafaring we’ve not had a cruising season so filled with wonderful experiences…<\/p>\n … nor contrasts in the environment through which we have traveled.<\/p>\n When we planned this trip the objective was Greenland, and then the British Isles. We assumed that everything leading up to Greenland would be a delivery. In other words, work, to be endured<\/em> getting to the fun part. But this was not even remotely what happened. Even though we thought we understood the capabilities of Wind Horse<\/em> we never imagined we could do a trip like these 10,000 miles so quickly and in such comfort. The biggest (and most pleasant) surprise has been the enjoyment leading up to Greenland.<\/p>\n Obviously we are still learning how to take advantage of the cruising tools that Wind Horse <\/em>has placed at our disposal.<\/p>\n What we would like to do now is dissect the past four months and determine what made this cruising season transpire in such a felicitous manner.<\/p>\n California to Panama<\/strong><\/p>\n California to Panama is a hair under 3000 nautical miles. Most cruising yachts spend months traversing this coast. But our eyes are set on the Atlantic and it has been years since we have done a really long passage.<\/p>\n So we decide to take this on in one hop, with the exception of two brief (less than a day) stops for inexpensive fuel in Mexico.<\/p>\n You might be wondering about the concept of doing this in one shot when it could easily be broken into segments. The answer to this is multifaceted, but in the end, it boils down to a few simple facts:<\/p>\n<\/div>\n The only negative is adjusting to the on\/off sleep patterns necessitated by just two of us keeping watch. Getting used to the new pattern takes our bodies a couple of days. After this, we fall into the pleasant rhythm while offshore.<\/p>\n Our temperature inside is controlled by air conditioning as we travel south, even though the water temperature nears 90F (30C).<\/p>\n Being on watch, rather than a drag, is something we enjoy. Crossing “tacks” with this majestic Spanish sail training vessel off Central America was a highlight.<\/p>\n There are often other interesting things to observe (and these guys are observing us as well).<\/p>\n And watch standers on other vessels with whom to chat.<\/p>\n We spend a few minutes each day exercising. There is room on deck to jump rope, do yoga, or use various parts of the structure along with weights to stay in shape. In warm climates the area under the big shade awning on the flying bridge is a favorite.<\/p>\n Awnings around the perimeter of the house reduce sun glare and heat load..<\/p>\n Arriving in Panama we are rested, the boat is clean, and the crew is ready to explore.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n Panama Canal Transit<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n Panama is a wonderful place to cruise, and the Canal is fascinating – the first time. But we have been through many times before, and we want to be on our way with minimum delay. We start out rafted to one of the PCA tugs, with a large sailing yacht rafted outside of us.<\/p>\n Being in a narrow channel with ships passing each other takes a steady helm as our PCA pilot has us move to the extreme edge of the cut.<\/p>\n The Panama Canal Authority wants to know if we are willing to go through side tied to the Canal wall on our way down to the Atlantic.<\/p>\n Acquiescing (instead of going center chamber) gets us into line much sooner. Being in the locks with huge ships is intimidating. But we know they are under control of tugs and shoreside locomotives.<\/p>\n By maintaining ten knots through Gatun Lake we are pushed ahead in the Atlantic side queue, and able to complete our transit in a single day.<\/p>\n Several factors make for an easy PCA transit:<\/p>\n<\/div>\n Panama to the Bahamas<\/strong><\/p>\n From the Atlantic side of Panama to the Windward Passage (or the Virgin Islands, or ABCs) is one of the worst passages you will ever face. In 40,000 miles aboard Beowulf<\/em>, it stands out as the most unpleasant. A combination of head winds and steep seas is the culprit.<\/p>\n We know that Wind Horse<\/em> will minimize the pain, making short work of the trip while reducing discomfort from pitching in head seas.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n We also know the Caribbean trade winds go in cycles. Pick the right time and it is possible to make the passage during relaxed trade winds.<\/p>\n This is precisely the situation we encounter as we drop our Canal pilot and crew of line handlers in Colon. The current period of light winds is now projected to be over by morning. We anchor for a few hours to store our transit gear, have a shower, dinner, and brief rest, and then head for the Windward Passage.<\/p>\n Four days later, after a lovely trip with moderate winds and relatively smooth seas, we are in the Bahamas. To say we are pleasantly surprised at how easily this goes (when we know from experience how bad it can be) is an understatement.<\/p>\n Several factors make this happen:<\/p>\n<\/div>\n Once again, we arrive at our destination after a comfortable trip, rested, and ready to enjoy new cruising grounds.<\/p>\n A post script on the weather. The morning after our evening departure the trades are back in force. They continue to build on our track, but always just behind us. Had we waited even twelve hours, the weather scenario for the trip would have been significantly less benign.<\/p>\n Thin Water Cruising – Bahamas Islands<\/strong><\/p>\n We have been through or alongside the Bahamas Islands on numerous occasions in the past. As alluring as the wonderfully clear waters looked, we never stopped.<\/p>\n The main reason was draft – this is thin water cruising, with five feet (1.7m) being about the maximum draft to allow exploration of the best of the Islands.<\/p>\n So when we were planning our passage to the British Isles we thought we’d spend a few days checking out the Bahamas.<\/p>\n It did not take long to realize these were fabulous cruising grounds…<\/p>\n …water as warm and inviting as anywhere in the world, friendly people…<\/p>\n … and WiFi connections in many of the anchorages.<\/p>\n That we were here in May, after the usual cruising season, is an added benefit. The anchorages are less crowded.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n The Bahamians are easy going, friendly, and happy to share their islands.<\/p>\n Of course May means it is warm. But with awnings for the house, flying bridge, and deck, the tropical breezes are enjoyable inside and out.<\/p>\n In the evenings, when the breeze sometimes dies out, a couple of hours with air conditioning keeps us cool with low humidity.<\/p>\n And there is always a refreshing dip from the swim step with lots of things to ogle under water.<\/p>\n This is also a great place to have friends and family join you. Air connections from the mainland are good, and if you don’t want to go to Nassau to join your guests, seaplane delivery is cost efficient.<\/p>\n Cruising in waters that are often 10 to 12 feet (3 to 4 meters) deep takes getting used to. Eventually we realize that with the elevated (and cool!) view from the flying bridge we can keep an eye out for coral heads and enjoy the inter-island passages.<\/p>\n The original plan of a few days stretches into three weeks. We would spend longer if not for the call of the North and Big Ice.<\/p>\n There are numerous design factors make the FPB ideally suited to this thin water cruising environment:<\/p>\n<\/div>\n We will be back.<\/p>\n For a brief video of transiting the Panama Canal and the Bahamas click here<\/a>.<\/p>\n Bahamas to Nova Scotia<\/strong><\/p>\n If the trip from Panama to the Bahamas can be difficult, the one north along the East Coast of the US can be real trouble, especially in spring. The problem is relatively dry continental cold fronts hitting the warm waters of the Gulf Stream. You contend with weather intensification as a result of this collision, as well as a current which often opposes the waves.<\/p>\n Boats leaving from the Bahamas usually make for South Carolina to shorten the time during which they are exposed to weather.<\/p>\n We consider this approach, but it adds time and miles to the trip. We figure if we can pick the right weather, our speed will minimize risks, and we always have the option of bailing out early. The 1250 miles we have to travel means we are going to have at least one bout of less than ideal conditions along the way.<\/p>\n We depart from the Bahamas in moderate north quadrant winds, just off the nose. This is not perfect, but it gives us a good start north in a brief period between fronts.<\/p>\n With 6 to 12-foot (1.8 to 3.6m) waves on the bow quarter, motion is for the most part comfortable. Of course you cannot traverse this route without at least one lesson from Mother Nature. She delivers one to us during our sojourn in the Gulf Stream: a northerly gale with the usual exceptionally steep waves. (Everyone connected with the yachting industry should periodically experience a wind against current blow to help keep design and build decisions in perspective.)<\/p>\n As we have come to expect, Wind Horse<\/em> takes the Gulf Stream gale in stride and soon we are surfing toward Lunenberg.<\/p>\n 2008 has been a year of exceptionally bad weather on both sides of the North Atlantic. Yet we are able to complete the 1200+ nautical miles in good order and on the evening of the fifth day after leaving the Bahamas we have cleared Canadian Customs in Lunenberg, Nova Scotia, and are having a leisurely dinner ashore with cruising friends.<\/p>\n The weather and sea-state issues make this one of the riskier passages to be found while cruising. Every year yachts and commercial vessels are lost to the adverse conditions. We could have done the trip in a series of short segments, picking ideal weather for each. Taking the more direct approach saved us at least a week of time. We were able to take this approach because we know Wind Horse<\/em> has the ability to make it happen in an acceptable manner. What made the trip safe and for the most part comfortable for us was:<\/p>\n<\/div>\n For a short video of Wind Horse<\/em> working in headseas, click here<\/a>.<\/p>\n Eastern Canada<\/strong><\/p>\n According to the original plan, we had not intended to spend more than a week in Eastern Canada. Maybe a day in Lunenberg, and then on to St. Johns, Newfoundland before heading to Greenland. But as we talk with friends who know the area, we feel we have to get at least a taste of what is on the cruising buffet in Eastern Canada. This would not be possible with our previous yachts given where we wanted to be at the end of summer, but once again, the fact that we could maintain a good turn of speed while passaging, in all weather, creates possibilities.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n The coast of Nova Scotia and New Breton Island is honeycombed with anchorages and small towns to explore. The Bras d’Or lakes are particularly inviting.<\/p>\n Protected anchorages abound within the lakes…<\/p>\n … as do lovely villages.<\/p>\n Moving away from the equator brings cooler weather, and longer, more spectacular sunsets and sunrises.<\/p>\n Cooler waters bring whales following bait fish.<\/p>\n These humpback cousins join us for dinner in Red Bay, Labrador.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Thirty to forty of these whales are feeding around Wind Horse<\/em>…<\/p>\n … consuming their meal while we eat ours. All of which we enjoy at anchor, in peaceful solitude. We have not seen another yacht since leaving Nova Scotia (this being a bit early in the season).<\/p>\n Cooler sea temperatures (just above freezing now) bring other changes, like fog.<\/p>\n Both conditions are to be expected in this part of the world.<\/p>\n We prefer to passage in clear weather, but if you are going to cruise in Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and Labrador, working in fog is part of the deal. We are helped by a powerful commercial grade radar and excellent sight lines forward. And while we are underway, even in these conditions, our normal life cycle goes forward.<\/p>\n We find Labrador a delightful surprise. Full of fascinating people, small villages, and ghost towns – some of which are in the process of being reclaimed, like Battle Harbour (above and below).<\/p>\n While Newfoundland and Labrador are a wonderful cruising environment, conditions can be difficult. Anchorages often have rocky bottoms, navigation must be precise, and maneuverability is at a premium in occasionally tight locations. And you must to be self sufficient. Mechanics and marinas are few and far between.<\/p>\n It can be cool and damp one minute…<\/p>\n … and sunny the next.<\/p>\n For us there is an added attraction – Big Ice. We are fascinated by huge ice bergs that have traveled here from Greenland.<\/p>\n The bergs not only instill us with awe, but provide a chance to “practice” navigational techniques under controlled conditions.<\/p>\n For video of Eastern Canada click here<\/a>.<\/p>\n
–Publisher’s Note<\/em><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/setsail.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/disco_s-65-811.jpg\" "\\"disco_s-65-81\\"")
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We are comfortable at sea.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nTemperature and humidity are controlled so we are warm in the high latitudes and cool in the tropics.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nMotion is negligible, even in quartering and beam seas.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nWork load offshore is minimal – update the log and check the engine room hourly.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nThe rest of the time we have to ourselves. One can relax, read, watch movies, work on projects, check e-mail, or enjoy the view.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nOn a voyage like this one – and this applies to most of our ocean passages aboard Wind Horse<\/em> – we are as comfortable offshore as we are at anchor.<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n
\nFor a video of the passage to Panama from California, click here<\/a>.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/li>\n\nAnd for additional surfing video, click here<\/a>.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n
Speed – ten knots gets you through the canal in a single day (otherwise two days with a change in Canal pilot is required).<\/div>\n<\/li>\nBare aluminum topsides and rub rail take the worry out of locking up and down.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nAn enormously strong rub rail protects the hull from the rough side walls of the locks on the way down and from the tug on the way up.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nDeck, house, and flying bridge awnings keep us, the Canal Authority Pilot, and our line handlers cool in the early summer (HOT) weather.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nPlenty of deck winches (powered and manual) and strong points for line attachment make it easy to control Wind Horse’s<\/em> rise and fall in the locks.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nExcellent handling characteristics take the worry out of maneuvering in the current at entrances and exits to various locks.<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n
We were rested enough, even after a long (hot) day in the Panama Canal, to leave on the same evening we complete our Canal transit.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nAt 10 to 10.5 knots (even uphill) we have the speed to make our way to the Windward Passage during the brief lull in the trades.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nThe fine entry and exit of our FPB hull soften what headseas we do encounter.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nInterior layout with work areas clustered around the pitch center reduce apparent motion to a minimum.<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n
Shallow draft – five feet (1.7m) opens up new worlds to explore.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nNatural ventilation at anchor keeps the environment below decks pleasant with only occasional need to resort to air conditioning.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nHouse window awnings and deck awnings keep the sun load to a minimum and allow hatches to remain open in most rain squalls.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nAir conditioning is efficient and needs only be run for a few hours in the evening, and then only if the breeze drops.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nThe flying bridge, with its large awning and protective wind shield, is a favorite spot at anchor and underway.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nYou never get tired of looking at that wonderful turquoise water from the “great room”.<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n
The ability to maintain our cruising speed in virtually all conditions, making it likely we’d maintain our projected weather “schedule”.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nTolerable motion, even in the face of extremely steep seas with the wind against current conditions in the Gulf Stream.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nConcentration of working and aft sleeping quarters near the pitch center so the motion we feel for the most part is minimal.<\/div>\n<\/li>\nAbsolute faith in the ability to handle the gale force weather encountered.<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n