{"id":30,"date":"1999-11-30T00:00:00","date_gmt":"1999-11-30T05:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/setsail.com\/?p=30"},"modified":"2015-10-16T12:09:10","modified_gmt":"2015-10-16T17:09:10","slug":"tips-for-electric-windlass","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/setsail.com\/tips-for-electric-windlass\/","title":{"rendered":"Tips for Electric Windlass"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Dear Steve and Linda, Impressed by your books, esp. the encyclopedia. Still I’ve 1 question: I’m looking for a powered windlass for my new 50′ ALU ketch. In your books you hint electrical windlasses are good enough, however I hear from different people that they can only work for a short period because of heating of the DC motor. Indeed e.g. Muir says to me: max. 10 minutes running time. At a speed of 8 m.min that’s only 80 meters chain. Now you also write that anchoring involves 3 maybe even 5 trials before the anchor holds. How does that relate to each other? Wouldn’t therefore a hydraulic windlass be better? Many thanks in advance, Ronald <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Hi Ronald: We’ve been using electric windlasses for the past 25 years without problems. In all of that time we’ve replaced two motors.<\/p>\n

Hints for successful operation: 1-Get an oversized windlass. For a boat your size I’d recommend something like the Nilson 3500 or equivalent. 2-Use heavy duty wiring, sized for no more than 3% voltage drop at max amps. On BEOWULF that’s 00 wire! 3-Run the engine for 10 to 15 minutes before using the windlass to bring battery voltage up, so the windlass has lots of power from the higher voltage. 4-Carry spare brushes, a spare motor, and spare solenoids. 5-Do not mount any control switches on the deck. They always fail. Use a control switch on a long lead, which can be stowed someplace dry. 6-Keep control solenoids and related electrical terminals in the interior, where they will stay dry. 7-Clean and lube the windlass parts at least twice a year. <\/p>\n

Good Luck -Steve Dashew<\/p>\n

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