{"id":8259,"date":"2009-03-07T19:19:20","date_gmt":"2009-03-08T00:19:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/setsail.com\/?p=8259"},"modified":"2009-10-08T14:22:09","modified_gmt":"2009-10-08T19:22:09","slug":"fpb-64-construction-update-7","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/setsail.com\/fpb-64-construction-update-7\/","title":{"rendered":"FPB 64 Construction Update # 7"},"content":{"rendered":"
<\/p>\n
We’ve got lots of systems and construction details to share, so we hope you are settled in with a beverage close at hand.<\/p>\n
We will start with the steering system, the general arrangement of which is shown above.<\/p>\n
There are two completely isolated hydraulic and pilot systems, either of which can steer the boat. Getting this right is critical for control in heavy weather. This also needs to be really strong, as the structure has to deal with millions of reverse cycle loading inputs over the years. If you are comparing what follows to your own boat, keep in mind that the FPB 64 is easily controlled, and has a balanced rudder.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
This shows the CNC-machined tiller to which hydraulic steering rams are attached. Machined from a solid block, there are no welds on the tiller. Angled intersections which might induce stress are relieved with fillets.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Cylinder bases take huge forces. These press-bent bases also have a central gusset, the welds for which you can just see below the base.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
One of the two rudder stops, designed to keep the cylinders from exceeding a set amount of travel. These come into play if you are hove to behind a parachute anchor in severe weather and at risk of being pushed back by a big sea.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Finally, one of the two pilot pump sets (not yet plumbed).<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Now for some fuel photos, starting with bubble testing the day tank inspection port.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The Racor 1000 filter on the left is for the genset. The center pair is for the engine, and the right set for fuel polishing. All this capacity is not required for the diesels; they are miserly in what they consume and much smaller filters would do. It is here to provide excess capacity in the event bad fuel is loaded (something we should note we have never encountered in close to 300,000 miles of cruising).<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Since we are on the subject of fuel, the basement fuel tank selection manifold is shown above.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Engine exhaust lines are a major source of noise and vibration. The FPB 64 exhaust system is mounted with the engine and does not touch the hull until under the swimstep.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Note the unpainted square steel tube triangular support. This is bolted to the engine, not the hull or deck.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Detail above of the exhaust support bracket and another view of the twin alternator mountings.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Looking above under the swim step starboard aft corner. That big pipe on top and the valve is the engine exhaust through the transom. Genset is smaller and below (also with shut off valve).<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The exhaust line penetrates a frame and the hole needs reinforcing, hence the welded ring above. The inner pipe is where the exhaust hose attaches.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The Kabola diesel boiler (above) is difficult to tie down for heavy weather. Look carefully at these details which work really well, starting with the aluminum bar across the top and threaded rods.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Threaded rod connection detail above.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The hydraulic pump which drives the stabilizers and crash pump is mounted on the transmission.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Taking hydraulic hoses through a watertight bulkhead is a double challenge. You do not want to transmit noise and you need to retain watertight integrity. The solution is above.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Hydraulic hoses eventually will run through these isolation blocks.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Hose penetration through an aluminum frame. Note the anti-chafe ring.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Detail above of the hydraulic hose penetrating the stabilizer head coffer dam.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Now for some exterior details. The foredeck anchor well is completed, ready for the windlass installation.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
This is the aft port corner of the hull. The tang on the aft side with the stainless wear insert is for a Jordon Series drogue attachment bridle. The forward tang takes the boom afterguy. The vertical pipe is for the aft leg of the pushpit.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
This “clam shell” over a topside through hull is to prevent splash back in heavy beam seas.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
A small but important detail. The weld bead is a reference mark for checking trim and the displacement of the boat over the years. These exist at the mid point of the hull and the transom. Measure the distance to the water from these, and you will know the weight of the boat and if you are floating level.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
And finally some interior details. Starting with the fridge\/freezer box above. The insulation for the freezer is six inches (150mm) for sides and bottom, four inches (100mm) for fridge. Isocyanurate foam has the best combination of insulating properties and longevity.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The box standing on end, showing the stainless liner.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
If you want your insulation to last, it must be sealed with a Mylar moisture barrier.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The insulated and wrapped box is then encased in plywood. Next comes the exterior finish (which we will show you at a later date).<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
We will close with more preparation. The perforated channels above will eventually contain the wiring and plumbing runs. The trays will be removed soon to make way for insulating the hull, and then refitted once insulation is completed.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"