The east coast of Greenland appears even more spectacular than what we’ve grown accustomed to on the west. There are numerous tidewater glaciers, and the shoreline appears choked with bergs.

That a 12 foot (3.8m) plus swell is running, and the day has turned gray, adds to the effect.

We know now that there is a good chance we’ll be departing tomorrow for Ireland, and we both wonder if we’re pushing too hard. It would have been nice to just sit and enjoy our last anchorage for another day. But to come this far, be so close, and not get a sniff of the east coast would leave a question mark hanging over our entire Greenland experience. We have to go to Lindenow.

We’re closing with a lee shore. There are detached reefs on both sides of the entrance to Lindenow Fjord. The chart shows basic indications of position, but we assume the coordinates are wrong.

The swell is actually a bonus as any shallow water will disturb the wave pattern. On the chart we measure the distance from the reef edges to the center of the channel between, and then make sure we maintain the measured distance off with radar. Sonar is looking ahead 1200 feet (360m) at a down angle of 12 degrees, to give us maximum warning that the bottom is coming up. Depth holds a steady 500 feet (150m) between the reefs, and then drops to 1000 feet (300m) or more. We breath a collective sign of relief.

Glacier capped mountains virtually overhang the fjord. That’s the Greenland ice cap on top of those mountains at which you are looking.

The high overcast of the morning is moving off to the east, and the sun begins to work its magic on sky, water, and snow.

Morgan’s Cloud Havn, named after John Harries’ and Phylis Nichols’ yacht, is around the corner from this tidewater glacier (John and Phylis were the first cruisers to visit this fjord).

The chart outline is not even close (the Danish charts are no better). But we don’t expect the charts to be accurate. What we are looking for is a basic indication of shape.

We will find our way in using radar to keep the boat centered between the two sides of the fjord.

And sonar to make sure there are no underwater surprises.

The narrow channel opens up into a bowl shaped anchorage. Depths range from 150 feet (45m) to down to 10 feet (3m).

We set the ROCNA anchor in 50 feet (15m) for the last time in Greenland, and look around in wonder. There is a lovely ridgeline trail up the mountain which overlooks the anchorage. It is tempting, but time is short, we need to study the weather for our departure, and we’re now in polar bear country.

Awake early the next morning, weather fax and grib file data, along with the analysis by weather router Rick Shema confirms we are heading for Ireland. Yesterday’s swells have died off, and we carefully retrace our computer track back into the Atlantic.

Meanwhile we cannot help but think about what Greenland has along its uncharted east coast. Lindenow alone has numerous potential anchorages, tidewater glaciers, and even more spectacular mountains than what we have seen in Prince William Sound. Combine this with the thrill of viewing territory that few if any cruisers have ever witnessed, and the allure is overpowering.

As wonderful as the west coast of Greenland has been, the east holds even more promise.

Will we come back? Only time will tell. For now, it is off to the soft textures of the Emerald Isles.