Port au Choix, Deux (impressed with our French?)

Port au Choix, Part Deux: Getting to know local fishermen and their fishing boats in Port au Choix.

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What a difference a little sunshine makes. Compare this to the photo from the same location yesterday. We enjoy cold and fog on occasion, but on the whole, prefer our weather somewhat drier.

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Wind Horse is the object of speculation as to how comfortable and efficient she must be. Politely questioned on the subject, we invite a number of the locals aboard for a tour. Without elaboration on our part, they recognize what her design represents.

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There are numerous wharfs surrounding the harbor, and fishing vessels of various sizes unloading their catch and doing chores. All of the fisheries are on a government regulated system, with the "scientists" (the nature of their scientific endeavors being subject to debate hereabouts) calling the openings. Some of the species, like shrimp, have moved to a quota system, as in Alaska, which seems to be gaining traction with the commercial fleet for its higher level of efficiency.

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There was a serious debate going on near the boat off our stern. There have been some seemingly arbitrary changes in openings, where an opening was called off after boats had prepared and then departed.

These fishermen all agree some regulation of the catch is required. And they have a "Union" which represents them to discuss the various details with the government. But this is a difficult business in the best of times and with the high price of fuel the situation is even harsher than normal. It must be hard to think long term when your very economic survival is at stake.

Much of the argument right now is over the allowed catch levels as many of the depleted stocks of fish – like cod for example – are making a substantial comeback.

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A trawl net designed to capture shrimp, but allow other species to escape.

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While fishing technology continues to evolve, these lobster pots are being built the way they have always been made (ends and rigging are yet to be installed). Note the saplings bent as frames.

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There are quite a few of these smaller open fishing boats around the harbor. They are bigger, and of a more efficient slow speed shape than the flat bottom designs we saw in Gros Morne and Lark. They are originally timber construction, and have been fiberglassed over to extend their lives.

Speaking of which, the trawler off our stern is originally composite wood (2-inch/50mm thick planking over frames). In the mid 90s she had 18 layers of woven roving and mat applied to the outside of the hull. And then more recently, as the fishery moved further north and dealing with ice became more the norm, an additional 13 layers were added (this time with vinylester resin instead of polyester).

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The interior of one of the boats on our dock. The thin, closely spaced frames make for flexible structure, light in weight, which is able to take a lot of punishment from the sea.

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Two more of the local glassed-over wooden hulls. The red boat with its wide, flat stern will be faster with a big outboard, but not as sea kindly as the rounder shape. And it will take more fuel to move it at displacement speed.

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These folks have a monopoly on motel rooms, bar service, and restaurant meals.

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They also have a computer terminal in the lobby which they graciously offered to share (without recompense). The only problem is that there is no way other than floppy discs (remember those?) to download files. But on our way back from the market we stopped at an artist’s studio who offered us his computer (and we are now up-to-date on CAD files from New Zealand).

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Although the Foodland market is small, they have the basic ingredients of a nice salad. Which leads to a question with which we have been wrestling. We are about as far from the strawberry fields of California as you can possibly get, yet those strawberries are better tasting than what we buy in Tucson, Arizona. Is there a conspiracy to ship the best produce to the farthest distribution points? Or is it something to do with Newfoundland’s ambiance?

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We will leave you with this image of Wind Horse, nestled nose to nose with the local Coast Guard rescue craft (also built of aluminum) in the warm Newfoundland morning sunshine. We need to remember that this type of weather is possible – as now it is cold, rainy, and foggy again.


Posted by Steve Dashew  (June 23, 2008)



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