Svolvaer has taken us by surprise. It is a big city (relatively speaking) with four thousand inhabitants, a real estate boom around the harbor, and a variety of specialty stores including outdoor sports, marine chandlery, and electronics. There are cafes and restaurants, and most important, high speed wifi on the dock. In short a great place to stop for few days and take care of things.

In our brief stay in Svolvaer we have met some fascinating Norwegians.

Amongst these are Rolphe and Anna. We had anchored in front of their summer cottage and when they saw Wind Horse at the dock they came by to have a look.

We started chatting, invited them aboard, and were in turn invited for a visit ashore. Anna is a retired school teacher and former hotel manager. Rolphe is retired from the Norwegian Navy where he was in their special forces. He is also a ship captain and a collector of things maritime.

Their summer cabin is like a museum, filled with wonderful artifacts from an earlier era. Included is this Walker “Cherub” taffrail log. When we started cruising this was how we kept track of distance run (the spinners hanging above record distance run). Each hour we would trundle to the stern rail to check our progress and record it in the log book.

This device caught our attention. Rolphe explained it is a quick release mechanism for sheet or halyards and has been is use for hundreds (if not thousands) of years. If a puff of wind starts to overpower the boat, pulling this releases the load on the rig.

Within a few miles of Svolvaer is some of the most spectacular scenery we have been privileged to experience in Norway.

Occasionally the sun makes an attempt to illuminate the scenery through the leading edge of high pressure which always seems to include rain, low clouds, and wind. The mountain tops here are directly behind Svolvaer.

We have been adhering to our new policy of going slowly and exploring in detail. A few hours and four miles north of Svolvaer and the view changes.

The day includes exploring three fiords, with numerous waterfalls (some of which are seen here through the great room windows).

The hook is set in a firm bottom in 50 feet (15m). This is the fourth anchorage visited today. We are surrounded by amazing mountains.

You can spend hours watching the peaks as they change shape and color in the light.

The clouds lend an air of mystery or maybe it is foreboding.

This must be mountaineering paradise.

To give some contrast the sun makes an appearance (the barometer is dropping and the back side of the high is clearing the atmosphere).

Speaking of contrasts, we’ll end with this beach scene.