There are usually seasonal patterns to weather, often associated with what is going on at the 500mb level. This is particularly true for areas like Cape Hatteras off the East Coast of the US, the Tasman Sea between Australia and New Zealand, and the Gulf of Alaska/Bering Sea region. It is also true for the eastern North Atlantic, the summer weather for which is usually dominated by the Azores High.
Except this year, as was the case last season, the Azores High is MIA. This has lead to lovely weather in Norway, but also to a succession of depressions forming around the British Isles. The fax segment above is typical of what we have been watching all summer.
Given the rapid development, wind shifts associated with frontal passages, shallow sea bed, currents, and areas with warnings of overfalls (square waves steepened by currents), cruising in this part of the world is best done with a wary eye.
The 100 miles from Lerwick in the Shetlands to Kirkwall in the Orkneys is a relatively quick nine hours for Wind Horse. If it is blowing a gale, say 35 knots, we would not normally think twice about the trip. Except for the overfalls.
The cruising guides all urge extreme caution in their regard, as do most of the small boat sailors we’ve met. But the risk profile is one of scale and heavy weather capability, both of which we have in abundance. We are hesitant to ignore local advice, on the other hand looking at the tides (it is neaps, when tides are at their minimum) and the wind forecast – barely a gale – we slip our lines at 0600 and head south.
There are areas of the world where adverse weather is rare. If this is the case, then waiting for a perfect weather window often makes sense. But in regions with less friendly weather, waiting for ideal conditions often means sitting in one place indefinitely. We prefer to keep moving, but then Wind Horse makes this decision easy.
Nine and a half hours later we are rewarded with these bucolic views. Seas have been moderate by our standards, six to occasional ten footers (1.8 to 3m), with just enough water on deck to clean the Lerwick dirt our decks.
So far the Orkneys have a different feel to them. There are castles, Balfour above, and large, prosperous looking farms.
But there are few really protected anchorages. After studying the chart, and talking to Orkney VTS we tucked into Elwick for a peaceful night at anchor. However, a forecast of southeast winds has us moving to the town of Kirkwall a few miles across the sound the next morning.
The town of Kirkwall has invested in a new marina, with two long sections of floating docks to entice visiting yachts to stop. Unusual for this part of the world, the marina is run by a private company.
We had our dock lines ready to come alongside this finger when we were waved off by a grim faced individual who pointed across to the commercial pier across the harbor. “You can’t tie up here” was the pronouncement.
If the docks were light, or the boats were rafted four deep, we would understand. But given the open space and total lack of rafted yachts, we were feeling a little puzzled by this rejection. We later found out that we had been dealing with the marina manager, Willie Watters, for whom the locals apologized. Having now spent a year cruising in Ireland, the UK, and Norway, this is the first person we’ve come into contact with who wasn’t pleasant. We’d say that’s a pretty good record.
We ended up across the harbor with the commercial guys. We are enjoying hanging out with the professional seamen (but the eight foot (2.4m) climb up the steel ladder at low water leaves something to be desired and makes it hard to invite folks aboard).
Fred Pirie is the Harbor Master for the commercial docks here and at three other local harbors. Fred made us feel most welcome, helped with the dock lines, and even offered us a ride into town.
Rather than head off right away to Scotland we are going to take in the sights for a few days.
Posted by Steve Dashew (August 1, 2009)
August 2nd, 2009 at 4:45 pm
regrettably Steve, Orkney Marinas are only small boat facilities and are unable to accommodate boats over 20 metres in length – as noted on our website – but if you keep coming I guess we will have to consider building suitable berths for bigger boats. Sorry if your meeting with Willie did not go well – most people think he’s an OK and helpful guy. John H.
August 3rd, 2009 at 2:01 pm
John:
If that is your rule and your manager was just enforcing it with a smile, we would understand. What got to us, however, was the attitude. Also, we could see an old style CCA/IOR maxi on the dock clearly larger than 20 meters.
On the other hand, we saved a bunch of dock fees, and met some lovely residents of Kirkwall who otherwise would not have been able to get through the locked marina gates.
August 2nd, 2009 at 6:22 pm
Steve,
I’m 62 born in Scotland and now living in Australia.
I’ve been following your adventures in Europe. I enjoy your very detailed explanations and pictures – a great site.
My uncle was a doctor on an outer Orkney Island and I visited him as a boy on Stronsay in 1955. The Orkadians are a friendly people. I’m disappointed you have had to single out poor Willie Watters the Marina Manager for doing his job.
At this site http://www.orkneymarinas.co.uk/textonly/ clause three “3 The maximum size of vessel which may berth is 20 metres overall length. Orkney Marinas Limited have absolute discretion on whether or not a boat may berth at the marina.” tells me that Willie was only doing his job. Perhaps there was some friction between you two.
To avoid any embarrassment to him, grateful if you could remove the offending remark from this page.
Regards
Jim Buchanan, Canberra, Australia
August 3rd, 2009 at 1:52 pm
Hi Jim:
There was a 70/72 foot sailboat on the dock with a lot more load on it than we would cause. We had no friction with the manager. Didn’t get close enough for that. We would not have mentioned this except three locals indicated there were others who had run afoul of this same chap. Bottom line, we always call it as we see it, good or bad…
August 3rd, 2009 at 2:40 am
It is good to hear (or read, rather) that you found the Orkney Islands interesting. And it is also good to hear that the weather was okay (even though your boat would handle almost anything). Apart from that I think I should mention that several people around the pontoons in Lerwick were disappointed that they missed your departure. Apparently there were some speculations as to how easily you would slip the lines and head out from your position in the harbor.
Furthermore: Your web sites are excellent. And your sailing yachts absolutely rock! I’ll be on the look out to charter one in the future. Even though crossing the North Sea in a 35 foot sailing yacht in a gale force 8 is exciting/thrilling it is also tiresome. And change (and more luxurious accommodations) is always welcome. Luckily we only had up to 6 and 7 on our way back.
August 3rd, 2009 at 1:48 pm
Thanks for the kind words, John:
Getting off the dock was easy. We use a double ended bow spring from the fairlead over the anchor (so we can slip the line from onboard) and go ahead softly with the rudder hard over. We have sprung ourselves off docks in 35 knots or more of breeze.
January 11th, 2010 at 7:09 am
Well done Steve. If the guy on the quay has no charm let him be pilloried, along with anyone who seeks to employ or defend him.
I’ve had considerable hospitality when I’ve visited America and I expect us to offer no less when visitors to our shores arrive, especially when they have the stories that you have to tell.
But as you know, there are still lots of people who warm to a boat that looks like it was built by Noa to escape the flood. Something from the 21st century scares them silly.
Keep up the good work.
Anywhere near Cardiff or Swansea?