This update we have some catching up to do with photos.
The inverter system provides both 115VAC and 230VAC (on boats with just 230VAC the fourth inverter serves light loads like electronics and small galley appliances). Splitting the sources like this provides back up and reduces idling current when the stack of three inverters are not required for heavy loads.
Starting batteries are held in place with this lovely aluminum weldment.
A “reed” (magnetic) float switch. These are used to control bilge pumps and send high water alarms. When used with pumps the reed switch current is used to trigger a relay or solenoid through which the pump power travels.
The hydraulic damage control is plumbed into the five compartments of the hull. Each has its own pick up and shut off valve. This is in the engine room.
The great room furniture is now well underway. This will become the starboard settee. The panel on top represents a 42″ TV screen which pops up from behind the settee.
Looking down at the top and the closure panel.
Hulls one and two are now undercoated, ready for antifouling paint.
Posted by Steve Dashew (July 28, 2009)
July 29th, 2009 at 1:57 am
I see that you have ground back the welds and have finished off the topsides with what looks like scotchbrite. Is this necessary for the undercoat to etch into the aluminum?
What paint system are you using as primer/undercoat and and antifouling please? It seems to have given a very good finnish!
July 29th, 2009 at 3:08 am
Hi Peter:
The Scotchbrite finish is for aesthetics. The paint system, which is by Altec in New Zealand, has a much courser tooth. If you search back through our old posts or use the search function you will find the paint spec for Wind Horse which is similar to the FPB64s.
July 29th, 2009 at 11:26 am
Steve
Could you give us more detail on the ” hydraulic damage control is plumbed into the five compartments of the hull. Each has its own pick up and shut off valve.”
Also, a few posts back you were going to discuss VPP (Variable Pitch Props)in more detail.
Thanks for all the exciting photos and information.
Bo
July 30th, 2009 at 3:24 pm
Hello Bo:
Damage control pump systems are covered in detail in our Offshore Cruising Encylopedia. Basically there is a high capacity self priming pump, in this case hydraulically driven with a continuous line from the engine room aft to the forepeak. There are T’s off this line to each of the watertight areas. Each T has its own valve, and you only open the valve to the section being pumped. We normally leave ours set to the engine room.
The pump is either manually controlled or controlled by reed type (magnetic) float switches.
July 30th, 2009 at 5:59 pm
Steve
Thanks for the clarification. I was understanding Hydraulic to mean your “hydraulic fluid system” not a bilge pump system for flooding.
thanks,
Bo
September 2nd, 2009 at 7:49 am
Hi Steve: I have an alum. sailboat 55 ft. We met on your second Carb 1500. I enjoy viewing your progress photos. There is a couple of items that I found needed revision on my boat. The bilge manifold pickup to the three water tight compartments did not work with only a few inches of water as I was unable to get a prime. I revised the system to include an submersable pump at each intake and kept the inline pump in place. I noted that the NZ builder used copper piping for the boiler. The green oxide from copper is death to alum. I had to spend many hours removing the copper and replacing it with Alum or stainless tubing. I used an espar boiler and I think the interior of the boiler could have been damaged from the copper. Lastly I have been adding additional insulation to the boat and have make good use of duct insulation which is a plastic duel bubble with foil faced both sides. It is inexpensive and at less than 3/8 inch thick gives an R5 value. It also is very light and no chance for mold!
September 2nd, 2009 at 9:51 am
Hi George:
Long time since the Carib 1500 – that was a fun passage. Re your submersable bilge pumps, take care with stray currents. We have always used remote mounted diaphram bilge pumps because of the stray current risk with pumps mounted in the bilge. On your boiler, it helps to have a Perry water conditioner in line and to check the PH level of the fluids on a periodic basis.