Gibraltar – The Good and the Bad

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Gibraltar is one of those names which rings bells for the cruiser. It is a destination that everyone, sooner or later, would like to visit. So it was with us, and we left the charms of Rota allowing plenty of time to sample this fabled destination. There have been a series of surprises, starting with the traffic in the Straights of Gibraltar.

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The traffic is much lighter than we expected. Perhaps we caught tthe Straights on an off day, but we’ve seen more shipping in the Catalina Channel off Los Angeles. Not that we are complaining mind you. The two + knots of current was welcome as well.

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There are three marinas and an anchorage from which to choose if you are a yacht. As the marinas handle the paperwork these days we figured we needed at least a day tied up. Queensway Quay is right in the heart of town, with a friendly and helpful staff.

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It is also hot and windless, so 24 hour air conditioning is required. The design of the marina cleverly traps and bounces any wakes or swell which find their way into the narrow entrance. It is possibly the most uncomfortable marina, surrounded by fancy high rises, on the planet. And when it blows can get really gnarly.

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The eastern perimeter is lined with restaurants, most of which offer wifi as an inducement. One of these is an excellent Indian eatery, and after sampling their fare we place an order for the freezer to see us through until December.

There is a huge Morrisons supermarket, brimming with speciality items amongst which is peanut butter sans sugar or preservatives. Now, if we could find some natural salsa and tortillas we’d be set.

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Gibraltar has a short but busy summer tourist season. We are told just one small ship came in today much to the chagrin of the watch, perfume, booze, and cigarette vendors. But it feels pretty crowded to us.

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If you get out early, at 0930 when the shops open, things are quiet. This seems to be when the Gibraltarians venture forth.

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There is a real marine store, Sheppards. We need just a few things, but it is fun just being in this sort of establishment. Although Gibraltar is a “duty free” port and has no VAT tax, we did not notice any bargains at the market or in Sheppards.

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The atmosphere in the Straights is a little dirty, from the shipping we’d guess. But the east wind which is inducing us to savor the local delights in detail has cleared the air, hence a half way decent moon photo (Canon 7D body, 500F4 prime lens, and stacked 1.4 and 2.0 multipliers – on land of course).

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We enjoy walking around new towns, taking the pulse, seeing the sights. Those green seedless grapes taste as good as they look

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This store front is for real, not a Photoshop creation. Cool duds.

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One of Gibraltar’s economic legs is shipping. Maintenance, service, and waiting at anchor for movement orders all contribute to the local coffers.

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We notice quite a few muscular, tatooed, gents lounging in front of some of the hostelries.

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Check out the inducement stay a while in the upper window pane.

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If you are on “The Rock” of course you have to do a tour. That’s our taxi driver/guide, Eric, pointing out the wonders of the Pillars of Hercules.

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Although not indigenous, the Gibraltar apes are a big attraction. But take care. There is on average a biting a day of tourists who get too close.

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The Rock is limestone and honeycombed with caves.

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Back in town there are the very British looking guard soldiers. As hot and humid as it is, these must be two very uncomfortable uniforms.

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There are lots of mementos of a turbulent past. Folks have been killing each other over this real estate since at least the Phoenicians.

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The big attraction for us is untaxed diesel.

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At 62 pence per liter or US$3.63 per gallon, this ranks as the best deal since Greenland.

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A few hundred meters from the fuel dock is the La Linea anchorage back in Spain. It is quiet, open, with the casual ambiance we have come to expect in this part of the country. And after all the time we have spent in marinas the last two weeks it is very welcome.

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The easterly breeze is dying off and Mr Grib promises westerly flow for a few days, so we are off into the Mediterranean Sea to discover the delights of the Balearic Islands.


Posted by Steve Dashew  (August 23, 2010)



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