Cruising rule number one: it is often the unheralded destinations that are special. Corollary to cruising rule number one: if you don’t try you will never know.
The Guadiana River, which separates Portugal from Spain, wasn’t even on our radar. Nobody with whom we spoke had visited, and other destinations in the area were more highly touted by the cruising guides. But as our Portuguese Vodaphone Internet system was working, and we needed to stay in touch with New Zealand, it seemed a good bet until we had the Spanish system up and running.
It only took a few hours at anchor, looking at the scenery and wildlife, to know the Guadiana was going to be one of our favorite places.
Just past the river entrance lie Vila Real de Santo Antonio (Portugal) and Ayamonte (Spain). These are mid-sized towns, neither of which has been discovered yet by the tourist trade; very refreshing.
Aside from a brief look at Ayamonte, our interest was drawn to the river environment. The Guadiana is one of those special cruising destinations that you stumble across now and then, in its own way ย on a par with Magdelena in Svalbard, or Greenland’s Disco Bay.
The photos which follow are just a sample. A much lengthier slide show in full screen high definition format is available here.
Although the current runs at up to three knots, the conditions are mostly smooth. As proof we offer the photo above, shot from a tripod on our aft deck using a Canon 500mm F4 telephoto lens with 1.4 and 2.0 extenders stacked – that is the equivelent of 2200mm in 35 mm film camera terms. You need a very stable platform indeed to shoot the moon with this set up!
The scenery has a softness to it which is alluring, especially at the beginning and end of the day.
There is very little development, and many visually interesting ruins.
Although this is the low season for bird photography there is so much going on that it is hard to concentrate.
One can only wonder what this must be like when the migration season is open.
Readers of our blogs will know that we are addicted to visual sensations. Our taste heretofore has been towards the spectacular – think Prince William Sound in Alaska or Spitsbergen. Precipitous mountains, glaciers, and giant icebergs has been our target. But Guadiana has shown us something new. The thrill of a farm house on the banks of a river in the soft light of dawn can be equal in its ย own way to Greenland’s Prince Christian Channels.
Throw in a spectacular assortment of wildlife, and you have the recipe for something unique.
We probably shot 4000 images in four days, with so many “keepers” that we were forced to go through the painful process of disposing of otherwise wonderful images if they did not meet our new standard.
These three photos of birds in flight are as good as any with which we have ever been graced, and there are dozens more like them, essentially from two days of shooting.
Twenty pleasant miles upriver lie the villages of Alcoutim (Portugal) and Sanlucar (Spain).
They offer a variety of eating and drinking options, and small grocery shops.
Although they have a modicum of tourist trade the visitors have a local flavor.
Both village are built on hillsides.
There is space for half a dozen visitors at the docks on each side. Most of the 20 yachts here prefer to anchor.
The churches on each side toll their bells on the hour and half hour. One less set for the Portuguese than Spanish in keeping their time zone being an hour earlier.
There are lots of details to study.
And the people watching isn’t bad either.
Although you have to be unobtrusive with the camera.
Some of the storks are religiously inclined. Note the nest at the top of the Sanlucar church bell tower.
Both towns have their own hill top fort. This photo is taken from the 14th century walls of the Portuguese bastion.
A number of the yachts at anchor have been here a while. It is warm in the summer, and a complete set of awnings and window coverings are a requirement.
We could easily spend a month or more her ourselves, just drinking in the surroundings.
The gray herons are as large as the storks, and ever so much more difficult to approach. Surprisingly, we could get closer with Wind Horse than the dinghy.
We’ll leave you with a small selection from the slide show previously mentioned.
If you would like to see these images and more full screen click here.
August 9th, 2010 at 10:11 am
One of the best postings, Steve. The trend seems to be “up” too….if that were even possible- since you began at a rather lofty height to begin with.
August 10th, 2010 at 1:02 am
Thanks for the kind words Jim:
Easy to be up on the Guadiana River!
December 4th, 2010 at 1:57 pm
Have read about you and your boats before but not about WindHorse until now when reading up on our friends struggling in the ARC. Congratulations to you for a trip well done ๐
I had to scan my brain a few times after reading the PDF about WindHorse, isn’t that boat similar to that “strange” boat we saw one day up the river I asked my firstmate. Since we not agreed I had to look in to it more. And I was delighted to see that you also liked the Guadiana river as much as we did. And that that “militaryboat with the trawler poles” that we were afraid to get to close to at anchor indeed was your nice boat. An reading this post I see that you even have pictures of my boat Nemo of Sweden ๐
Sometime in the future I might sail up that river again, a “treasure” well kept by the sailing community, we made a lot of good friends there staying from May until September. At the moment we enjoy a lagoon in northern Brazil at Tibau do Sul. Again we found a spot not frequented by everybody, only boat here now for 5 weeks ๐
Hope to see you out there some time in the future, this time we might have the courage to make an approach.
Andreas, Nemo of Sweden
December 10th, 2010 at 7:30 pm
Hi Andeas:
By all means, next time do come by for a visit!