If the system used to handle the anchor chain is right, the chain comes in or goes out at the push of a button. If it is wrong, all sorts of problems can occur, typically requiring human intervention to prevent and or remedy the issues. In this report we will show you a few of the details we employ to get this right.
We are using a Maxwell V4000 windlass on the FPB 64 (same size as on Wind Horse – FPB 83). It is oversized on the FPB 83 so it might be considered ridiculous on the FPB 64. But we can afford the weight and the massive shaft, bearings, gears, and motor of this unit guarantee a long trouble free life. Proper fit of chain to the chain wheel (gypsy) is essential.
Note the chain stopper ahead of the windlass. We know from real world experience that this will work in horrible conditions.
The bow rollers and their supporting structure provide several important functions. First, the rollers and structure form a stop against which the anchor is winched hard. When all the way home, this prevents the anchor from moving at sea (which is annoyingly noisy). Next, the dual large diameter rollers reduce chain friction. Third, the angled rollers are designed so the anchor self launches, while reducing the load on the windlass as the anchor stock first turns the corner of the lower roller when winching the anchor home.
The UHMW rollers have a dual groove. The inner is for the chain link and the outer for the anchor stock.
The eye at the top between the structure is a fairlead for everyday use with the snubber line. If you were to ever hang behind a parachute anchor it would also lead through here.
Every so often the anchor will start to come around the rollers at 90-degrees or upside down. Dimensional allowance has to be made for the anchor, and the shackle with which it attached to the chain, to rotate into the correct orientation (which it will do on its own).
Posted by Steve Dashew (February 10, 2010)
February 10th, 2010 at 10:58 am
What brand of chain stopper do you use and recommend?
February 10th, 2010 at 12:53 pm
Hi Andrew:
We have been using Maxwell windlasses and chain stoppers since the mid-1980s.
February 16th, 2010 at 9:43 am
Hi Steve,
Why electric over hydraulic when it came to anchor winch?
February 16th, 2010 at 10:21 am
Howdy William:
We have addressed this in detail before, but basically we have found over specifying the electric gear gives us excellent reliability and allows a much simplified, more efficient, and reliable hydraulic system (devoted solely to the stabilizers in normal operation). We can also adjust the anchor rode without starting the engine.
February 17th, 2010 at 3:16 pm
A single storm anchor and matching chain for normal anchoring duty is definitely the way to sleep soundly at anchor…
However, I have a couple suggestions to make based on past experience:
– Snubber: it seems to work better if permanently shackled to a strong D ring welded just above the waterline at the bow with the snubber line secured to the chain with a rolling hitch knot or snap shackle. The pull point is much lower than if streamed through the bow fitting, thereby increasing the effective scope and seemingly reducing the tendency to sheer on either side of the mooring. In addition, the issue of chafe is instantly resolved and there is no need to periodically adjust the scope on the snubber…
– Bollards: on an aluminimum boat it should be very easy to install double bollards – 2 posts with a horizontal bar welded in between – right on the edge of the deck rail to provide easy cleating with a built-in fairlead that will prevent mooring lines chafe. In addition this will meet the Panama Canal standards requiring enclosed chocks for 4 lines at bow and stern for tying on centre lock…
– Smoothing the utilitarian lines of the short but bulky anchor sprit by incorporating a graceful curve downward where its vertical sides meet the hull: a little detail that should heighten the feeling of proud ownership when rowing away while contemplating the ship’s profile…
February 18th, 2010 at 2:34 pm
Hi Frank:
Good suggestions. Until a few years ago we fitted snubber eyes just above the waterline on our yachts for the reasons you indicated. However, our own experience and that of our clients was that these were never used, so starting with Wind Horse we have left them off.
Chafe on the snubber line is indeed an issue. That is one of the reasons we have the flared “trumpet” bell as part of the anchor support sprit. It works great! It is also handy for the Panama Canal, and should the need arise, for a parachute anchor rode.
February 20th, 2010 at 8:15 pm
Steve,
I understand the “trumpet” bell would serve forward, but what would serve aft for the canal requirement?
February 20th, 2010 at 9:34 pm
Howdy Scott:
There are a pair of tangs on the aft corners for use with a Jordan Series Drogue or similar. If you pop on a large shackle, and then a snatch block, this works well in the Canal. There are also large eye bolts in several places on the rub rail aft.
February 26th, 2010 at 12:29 pm
[…] previously wrote about some of the details of the FPB 64 anchor handling system. As Circa just sent us a series of photos of the main anchor (a 240 pound/110kg Rocna) being […]
March 28th, 2010 at 11:17 pm
Steve,
In reading the Rocna website, they recommend aluminimum rollers as being ideal. I see you are using UHMW rollers. In your view, what are the pluses and minuses of the two materials for this application?
March 29th, 2010 at 1:19 pm
Hi Doug:
We have never thought about aluminum. Seems heavy, and the UHMW is self lubricating on its shaft.