1130 – We are 40 miles from Cartagena – just sag off to a fast reach and in less than four hours we will be exploring this ancient town. We’ve checked on the morning SSB radio net and the boats there say it is lovely, and very secure these days.

We discuss spending a week or so there, but the fax charts show a favorable lightening tomorrow, and so we decide to press on.

1330 – As we near the coast the seas are getting even more confused and steeper. We are waiting for the wind to begin clocking to the NE so we can tack on the “header” and finally it begins to go around.

By 1400 the wind is oscillating between 040T and 050T. We heave to, staysail backed to weather against the reefed mizzen on center, so we can inspect the rig, and do a couple of minor maintenance chores. In spite of the steep seas, not a drop of water comes on deck. Beowulf is at 40 degrees to the wind, drifting to leeward at about a knot.

Linda decides to take advantage of the smooth motion and fix lunch. Fruit smoothies, and tuna salad.

2330 – We are now more than 100 miles offshore, heading north, to get into an area of smoother seas and lighter winds. The current is gone, the seas have lengthened out, but the wind gods have not gotten the word, and it is still blowing 25/30! So, we are moving along at 7.5 knots, thumping only occasionally, and hoping the breeze will die down in the AM.

Tactically, it is probably best to come back into the coast on port tack, towards the header from the mountains. But that brings us back into the countercurrent and steep waves, so we’ll stay on this tack until the AM. We’re only 400 mile from Curacao – but it is dead upwind!