2200 – Wind is now 30 to 35 knots, occasionally gusting higher. This must be the “coastal effect” about which we’ve heard so much. Seas are getting much bigger – and steeper. If it were daylight they might be intimidating. But since we can only get a glimpse now and then and BEOWULF feels like she is coping well, we press on. Wind direction still favors this tack.

2300 – There’s a strangely lit ship off our port bow, heading towards us.We track them for a while, then give a call on the VHF, channel 16.

“This is the eastbound sailing vessel BEOWULF to the southbound ship off our port bow.”

A New Jersey accent replies, “This is the naval survey vessel ENDYMION.”

Turns out they are “surveying” the area. We are informed they’ll be making a 90 degree turn to the west in 90 seconds. The captain wants to know if we are a ketch rig, and we are invited over to have a look when they are docked in Curacao in a week. We offer a visit in return and we are both on our way.

20 minutes later and another shipped crosses our bow, and slides down our starboard side, less than a mile away – much to close for comfort.