This passage feels a lot like the way we used to approach our sailing voyages. We’ve got lots of weather options, the open ocean current plays a big part, and there are choices to be consider for where to end the voyage. Then, there is the control over boat speed, with which we can play (we have a lot more flexibility than with our sailing designs).

The GFS model grib files continue to show us light headwinds over the next three days. During the last 24 hours the breeze has shifted from the east to the northeast. Current has been neutral overall, a welcome change from the leg up from Pago Pago.

We’ve been running at 1950 RPM, doing right around 11 knots, comfortably slicing through the three to 6-foot 0(.9 to 1.8m) head seas. Every couple of minutes there is a soft thump as a crossing swell from the north runs under the bow. Our ETA is Monday morning. But we may have to slow down as we approach the islands if the sea state builds and/or becomes more confused.

We’re heading for the west side of the Big Island. We have been told we can clear in and get fuel in Honokahau. This is preferable to Hilo on the east side as Honokahau is dry and in the lee of this massive island.

The course from where we sit right now is 7 degrees true (we’ve got just under 700 nautical miles to go). We are steering a course of 25 to 28 degrees true, to put some angle in the bank. Moving ourselves to the east buys insurance in case the winds shift more northerly and/or increase beyond what is forecast.

Hurricane Kenneth is now a tropical depression, and it is bearing down directly on the Big Island. There will be heavy rains as it comes into contact with the island terrain. We’re hopeful that two days from now, when we are closing with the coast, Kenneth will be long gone.

To the east the tropical situation is benign.

An interesting oceanographic feature of this trip up are the many undersea mountains and ridges along the route. Although these are long distances below the surface – often 1000 feet (300m) below – they represent drastic changes in the surrounding sea bed. As a result the currents are deflected towards the surface, and the sea state gets chaotic. Ideally we would avoid these areas, but as the weather conditions are moderate, we’re simply putting up with a slight decrease in comfort. However, if the winds were significantly stronger, we would alter course towards more uniform undersea areas.

The photo above is one of the major reasons for visiting the Marquesas Islands. This is a "pamplemousse" (grapefruit). Nowhere else in the world can you find a fruit as succulent and inviting. We’ve just just eaten this for breakfast.

Since we have not been to the Marquesas in eight years, this is a doubly wonderful treat, a gift from a new cruising friend on Fanning. He was out of bread, we had some extra Vogels in the freezer from New Zealand, and he had a couple of extra pamplemousse That one pamplemousse has us talking about yet another trip to French Polynesia.

Just so you don’t think everything always works (even though it pretty much has so far), our watermaker feed pump has just decided to quit. We need this to send salt water to the high pressure pump. It could be a relay, or maybe the pump is tired. Whichever, we have 600 gallons (2300 liters) of fresh water aboard, plenty to last us for a long time. Rather than deal with the pump now we will wait until we are anchored in a few days.

We like to have someone on shore with access to a high-speed Internet connection with whom we can discuss weather options. We’ve been using Bob McDavitt of the New Zealand MetService for our Southern Hemisphere feedback. Bob is one of the best weather guessers and routers in the business. After thinking about this part of the world, and who to use, we decided to stay with Bob. Each day we e-mail him questions about what we are seeing and thinking. He checks the various models and satellite images, and gets back with his thoughts. What we are really after are two things. Most important is to have an external "weather eye" watching tropical development. Secondly, we’re looking for suggestions for staying comfortable.

Bob’s brief report from yesterday morning follows: "Well, I downloaded some northern hemi data from around Hawaii, seems to show a trough passing over that area on 1 October, but I suppose you’ll be getting there after that. Strongest currents are at 2N and 6N and are going to the SE so are a bit of a drag so don’t linger there. ITCZ is most active between 6 and 8N so don’t linger there. Otherwise it’s looking OK. Bob."

The trough Bob mentions is associated with TD Kenneth. The adverse currents did not show up. We did see a bit of squall activity associated with the ITCZ region Bob mentioned, but that is behind us now.

Finally, we’ve passed a milestone of sorts. Five thousand nautical miles have now passed below the keel of Wind Horse. Although we’d rather have spent more time at anchor and less traveling, she has made it very pleasant for us.