
We’re headed west now from Prince William Sound. The occasional tug and barge is to be seen, this one a pusher configuration (where the tug fits into a notch on the back of the barge).

The coastal scenery remains spectacular.

As the weather is pleasant we’re actually eating occasionally on the flying bridge. The fresh stuff at the local markets may come by barge, but it still tastes good.

We’re taking advantage of conditions to get a little exercise on deck. After all the time we’ve spent inside the boat because of cold and rain, we really appreciate the nice days when they come.

It is tough to see the sun set and rise when there are 20 hours plus of daylight. But we caught this one by virtue of the fact that we’re party animals.

And maybe our favorite waterfall of this summer. It is not as spectacular as some, but it has a lovely, almost gossamer feeling.

This part of the world is often plagued with limited visibility. But this summer, so far, aside from the rain, we’ve had little fog.

We’re headed down the channel now to Seward. This Alaska Fish and Game patrol boat has hailed us asking to come aboard.

We meet Mark, a very interesting former Air Force heavy metal driver who used to fly patrols for the Alaska Fish and Game department, and now patrols on the water. Check out that document in his hand.

Here’s a close up. Its the equivalent of an All Points Bulletin, in effect a "wanted" poster for Wind Horse. Our transgression? We’ve entered Alaskan waters without a State of Alaska approved pilot (a new law since 2004). This is a misdemeanor punishable by a fine of up to $20,000 on the first offense, and $30,000 on the second. As we were here last year, also without a pilot, we’ve broken the law twice!
If you are headed to Alaska, and want to stay legal on a foreign flag vessel, you must use a state approved agent to file for an exemption and pay a fee of $250 plus $50 for every foot over 65 feet (20m). In addition, you are required to carry a pilot through Wrangell Narrows and Peril Straights, several thousand additional dollars. To make us feel right at home, a copy of the notice Mark is holding was also sent to the District Attorney in Juneau. Fallout (or maybe payback) for taking issue with the State of Washington law in a previous article.
It would be nice if this new law was more widely known. This would give foreign flag cruisers the chance of deciding before coming up here how badly they want to visit Alaska. It is wonderful cruising, but we’re not sure it is worth these fees.
From the perspective of US cruisers, eventually other countries will begin to retaliate against US flagged yachts for what Washington and Alaska are doing to their yachts. The whole world of cruising then suffers.
We’re waiting to hear about the disposition of our case. The Pilots Commission will meet to decide our fees and what, if any fines we have to pay.
May 16th, 2009 at 11:24 pm
What did the Pilots Commission decide?
May 19th, 2009 at 11:32 am
They decided we could pay their fee for an exemption, and another fee for the pilot we did not need or use through Wrangel Narrows. We were told to consider ourselves fortunate that we were not also assessed lodging and air fare for the unused pilotage. Total costs were about US$2200 from memory. Needless to say it left us with a bad taste in our mouths for Alaskan bureaucracy.
June 6th, 2009 at 4:54 pm
Your “Wrangel Narrows” pilot incident brings up a bigger question I have always wondered about. What are the benefits of registering your boats in the Caymen Islands? I always assumed that it was to avoid state sales and other taxes, but I suspect that there is much more to it. Also many other spots in the US such as the straights of Juan de Fuca are you also required to use a harbor pilot?
/DaveS
June 10th, 2009 at 8:15 am
David:
Long answer involved and this is covered in detail in our Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. As far as Washington goes, ALL foreign vessels of any size are technically required to get an exemption. Washington and Alaska are the only places we have run into this in 30+ years.