Nuuk Fjords

Photos of rugged Nuuk fjords.

We’ve been advised that the complex of fjords which extend inland from Nuuk are worth a look. These are not supposed to be as spectacular as the Disco Bay area to the north, or the Prince Christian Sound channels in the south.

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The combination of rugged geography, ice, brilliant sunshine, and clear air are overpowering in impact.

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Most of what we are seeing is textured, rather than worn smooth.

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Here and there one finds traces of plant life. But mostly the rock is bare.

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These photos are in their natural state (not "pushed" in Photoshop).

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Late in the day the color of the sky is wonderful.

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Although there are lots of glaciers, snow cover is minimal compared to what we are used to in Alaska. But then this is midsummer, and Greenland is a very dry environment (with about 1/8th the rain of the coastal areas in Alaska).

Speaking of which, after five days of brilliant sunshine we have now equaled the total we saw in two seasons of cruising Alaska.

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There are several active glaciers in the area and lots of ice with which we can practice radar interpretation.

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The radar here is on two-mile scale, after we have pushed into the area of ice in the preceding photo. In smooth water at short ranges like half a mile, the radar easily shows us the smallest growlers.

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This is a Wind Horse record for ice density, with the larger targets representing icebergs many times our length. Yet it is easy to navigate through. However, if the wind or current were to push this into a line the ease of maneuvering would vanish.

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Later on in the afternoon, now about 1900 local time, and the low sun angles are doing wondrous things with contrast and shadows.

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These photos do not do justice to what we are seeing.

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As there are few or no soundings on the charts, when we are mid-channel, between mountain ranges, the depthfinder is the primary navigation tool. This is showing the bottom continuing to drop off at 600 meters (2000 feet)! Note the water temperature. We figured it would be much colder with all of the ice nearby. This is the warmest sea temperature since leaving the Gulf Stream prior to making landfall in Nova Scotia.

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One of the things at which we have been surprised is how little wildlife we have experienced so far. We are told this will change further north.

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The photo above is what we see just before turning into a tight anchorage about which we have been advised.

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The radar is set to its highest range, and the rings represent 150 foot (45m) radii. We are anchored in 33 feet (10m) and at low tide, with two-to-one scope, just have room to swing.

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This is the sonar in vertical mode, looking abeam with us aligned in the channel. This is showing we have about 45 meters/150 feet until the rudders touch bottom at low tide. If you combine our length, the chain, and reduce length for chain angle, we are probably just OK. Like we said, this is tight.

If we were expecting bad weather, or the risks to the boat of hitting the rudders were substantial, we’d pick another spot. But if the rudders did touch it would only be lightly and we could winch off with the anchor, or just wait for the tide to float us free.

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When the wind is off the mountain, and we lie at right angles to the channel, there is not much room between Greenland granite and New Zealand aluminum.

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Most of the time the breeze and current keep us lined up.

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We’ll let you rate the views from Wind Horse in this "rather ordinary" Greenland anchorage.

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This is taken about 2130 local time.

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And an hour later.

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Finally, 0400 as the sun and moon are rising together.


Posted by Steve Dashew  (July 20, 2008)



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