Hi Dashews–After many months of research and viewing, we have found our first boat! We are buying a 1964 Cal 40 in mostly lovely condition for about 50K. I would like your opinion on a couple of concerns I had about the boat.
1. We had an engine survey done and the V-drive needs replacing–what other mechanical systems would V-drive failure affect? Stuffing box? Prop? etc?
2. I have been trying to find out specifics on the hull construction (I was told it was made of 5 hand-laid layers of fiberglass & would be thrilled to find out if that’s true!) but am not having much luck. Are there any non-destructive tests that can be done on hulls to check the condition & thickness of the fiberglass?
3. I have done enough research to know that the tabbing on the Cal 40s is weak and that there are some concerns with the deck-hull joint. Will a surveyor specifically check the bulkheads and the d-h joint for signs of weakness as a matter of course or do I need to instruct him as to what exactly I want inspected?
4. There is some minor decay on the bridge beam–what’s the best way to stop it? Any info at all would be appreciated–we set sail for the first time ever in June!! Thanks, Erin
Hi Erin: Congratulations on the Cal 40- A great cruising boat!
Re V-drive failure, this would not specifically create any other problems. However, you may want to upgrade to a modern “dripless” stuffing box. Also, check the shaft for alignment, remove and replace the prop-to-V-drive coupling, checking it for wear, and be sure to check the pressure plate on the flywheel.
The pressure plate is a tricky situation. You want to be sure that it is the correct plate for the engine/transmission. This is not so much an engineering issue as what works over time.
Easiest way to check hull construction is to take a small core–of course, then you need to fill the hole. The core can be checked for laminate, glass-to-resin ratio, and moisture. I think the Cal 40s were all mat and woven roving–no core in the hulls.
As to the survey, it always helps to give the surveyor a heads up on what you want checked–and to double-check yourself. For bulkheads tabbing, check it all the way around on all bulkheads. This will take a little extra work, but is not that difficult. Any loose tabbing needs to be re-bonded of course. The hull-to-deck joint is more difficult. It needs to be checked of course, but what you are looking for is signs of past leakage. This will also get you into how the toe rail, deck hardware, stanchions, and chain plates are bedded. If the boat has not been sailed hard, she might have leaks (probably will have leaks) and they won’t show.
To get a handle on all of the potential leaks spots around the perimeter you are going to have to remove any hull coverings, empty lockers, etc. I am not familiar with the “bridge beam” you mention. GIve me a more detailed discription and I will try and respond. Regards–Steve Dashew
Posted by Steve Dashew (November 30, 1999)
