Cruiser’s Tech Talk

Following is where you’ll find Steve & Linda’s more technical articles, along with Cruisers’ Q & A…If you’re looking for info on the nuts and bolts of cruising, this is the section for you!

Ketch for Bruce Roberts 38

Dear Mr. Dashew, Your books are most informative, thank you for writing them. I have recently inherited a steel Bruce Roberts 38 built by an uncle who was a professional fitter/welder. I like the boat, but do not favor its ketch rig. Reading your work, it has occurred to me that I might convert the rig to a mast forward sloop.

At the present time I do not want to replace the entire rig. However, in preparation for a 6 month Bahamas–Chesapeake cruise I need to replace the main and one headsail anyway.

So, here is my question. Am I likely to benefit from removing the mizzen and replacing the main with a much larger big roach full batten sail, keeping the current mast in its present position (13ft from bow, LOD 38)?

Knowledgeable friends tell me that there are many complex balance and stability factors involved. I question this because I can balance the boat without the mizzen on most points of sail over a fairly wide range of wind speed. As for stability, I would not increase mast height. With a P36ft/E14ft I can almost match the sail area if I go with a big roach mainsail.

I contacted Bruce Roberts but was dissatisfied with the response as they only wanted to sell me plans for a traditional cutter rig.

If the conversion has merit can a good rigger/sailmaker help me work out the details or would I need to involve a naval architect? Any recommendations? I’m in Florida. Thanks, Beau

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Furling Mains

I am currently looking at a 54 Hylas to be used for coastal cruising in Florida and the Bahamas, very little extended blue water. A lot of daysailing. Would you recommend a furling boom or in-mast (vertical battens)? Are the in-boom furlers relatively trouble-free? Thank you. Richard

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Rigging Drogues

Aloha Folks: I am, like too many new cruisers, spending money adding things I MIGHT need…I am thinking about prep for the day at sea when not smart enough to avoid heavy weather, and I need a drogue.

AVALON, TPI hull #5 has at the stern port and starb an open chalk on the rail thru which in a tie up to a dock leads fair to the cleat mounted thwartship on the stern.

I am wondering how to secure drogue lines considering their strain and the stern line cleat set at right angles to the pull of the drogue line.

What would you say to leading the drogue bridle thru the hole between the cleat “feet”, then a single turn around a heavy winch then secured to the midship cleat on the rail? The winch turn to facilitate retrieval, the stern cleat to provide a fairlead, and the midship cleat to provide a fair securing place.

Thanks, Scott

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Windvane for Swan 40

I have bought Prologue, an original 1970 classic Sp&Spears Swan 40. I am going to sail her to Falmouth England…and then onto West Coast Scotland, Transat from Oxford Maryland. I need a suitable windvane and must, on grounds of cost, try to find one used. Have you any suggestions as to buying one? Keith F

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Using Drogues When Crossing a Bar

Re: your article in Cruising World some editions ago concerning crossing a harbour bar. As a last advice there could be the option of using a drogue from the stern for stabilizing reasons (I also use a drogue as a steering device).

What do you think about this? The first one who mentioned this method was Captain Voss in 1901 (in “The Venturesome Voyages Of Captain Voss). Best Wishes Yours, Jens

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Multihulls in Heavy Weather

Hello! The subject of Multihulls vs. Monohulls is a hot one, and is likely to continue to be. 🙂 However, there is one designer who has put online a very good paper on multihull seaworthiness. It is, of course, true that he is a catamaran designer, so the criticism may be the paper is biased, but it is very technical in nature, and I find (having an engineering background) reasonably complete and suited to the informed lay reader.

The article on your site I am referring to is: Multihulls.

John Shuttleworth’s article on multihull seaworthiness is here: http://www.steamradio.com/JSYD/Articles/NESTalk.html

I believe that your opinions may be swayed by his treatment. As always, seaworthiness is as much a function of the crew as of the boat, but a good crew with a bad boat can only go so far. I was very timid about the idea of multihulls and blue water, but decided I would research it before making up my mind. What I found were many good sources of experience reports (MultiHull Voyaging by Thomas Firth Jones for example) which finally convinced me that multihulls, designed correctly, could be as seaworthy in blue water as a well designed monohull, if not more so.

I have heard a bit about storm tactics and multihulls, and the one thing I have heard that I do not know if you have mentioned (not having purchased your book yet) is using a large para sea anchor. I am told that using a very large para anchor, head-to the seas, creates a slick much like the one one gets with a keel boat that is properly hove-to. The idea is to use the para anchor at roughly a one wavelength distance from the boat. This saps the waves power as it comes towards the boat and will then rarely, if ever, break across the bow. Since swell cannot capsize a boat, it stands to reason that this would be a very good tactic.. a sort of heaving-to for a multihull. The para anchor should be something like at least 75% of the beam. I have heard that 28 foot, nylon para anchors are most common, being able to be gotten from other sources than custom. Have you heard of this tactic?—Timothy

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Roller-Furling Mains and Center-Cockpit Boats

1) What are your thoughts on the merits of roller-furling mains, especially the leisure furl boom systems which allow a better cut main with full battens?

2) Center-cockpit boats–Is the benefit of a better aft cabin and a small afterdeck worth the wetter, more motion at the helm that results from being higher up and more forward?

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Snuffer

I’m about to order a gennaker for my Sabre 402 and have been trying to decide between your snuffer and ATN’s. For dousing, ATN recommends blowing the tack before pulling the snuffer down. If I am reading your response to Doug Peters’s question about this, you seem to be recommending easing the sheet. Having had some difficulty doing this with the non-ATN, non-North snuffer on my last boat, ATN’s idea seems sensible to me. Is there a reason I couldn’t take this approach with your snuffer?

Read the rest »


Posted by admin  (November 30, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Steps for Getting Ready to Head Offshore

Before each passage we’ve learned that it pays big dividends to go over all of the boat’s systems, rigging, and sails to make sure everything is in the proper condition. In the past couple of weeks we’ve spent a few days on Beowulf, getting her ready to head offshore. Here are the items aboard we’ve checked:

Read the rest »


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 16, 1999)    |    Comments (0)

Full Battened Mainsails

From time to time we read in the yachting press about problems with fully battened sails on long down wind passages. We’ve been using these sails for almost two decades now, and have found that with the right approach they are less of a problem than conventional sails.

There are two key ingredients: first, you must have a good vang to keep the sail from twisting off and putting excessive load on the spreaders. If your boom vang to the mast isn’t strong enough, rig a vang to the rail on those long tradewind trips.

Second, chafing gear must be done correctly. We’ve found that thin UHMW plastic (usually 1/32″ thick) can be sewn onto the sail in all vulnerable points (at the spreaders and where each batten crosses a shroud – both need to be done for full hoist and reefed positions). The UHMW lasts for years and does not allow the sail to chafe.


Posted by Steve Dashew  (November 16, 1999)    |    Comments (0)