Following is where you’ll find Steve & Linda’s more technical articles, along with Cruisers’ Q & A…If you’re looking for info on the nuts and bolts of cruising, this is the section for you!
Hi–I read about the importance of knowing your boat’s LPS in the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, and I was wondering where and how I can review the LPs for different models of boats so I can use that information to help me buy the right boat for me. Is there a site online that lists the LPs for different models of yachts? Thanks, Erin
I’m in the process of purchasing a 33′ Cheoy Lee cutter-rigged clipper ketch. I’m an intermediate recreational sailer searching for information regarding the types of sails recommended for cutter-rigged ketches—-for instance, why might one fly a single 145% Genoa rather than the Yankee/Staysail combination?—-trimming techniques, more advanced configurations, such as a "mizzen spinnaker", performance configuration recommendations. My impression from internet and library searches is this type of information concentrates on racing sloops. We sailors with little or no desire to race seem to be left out in the cold, despite the fact that we still desire to get from point-to-point as efficiently as possible.
No doubt you’re as busy as the rest of us, but any information or pointers you might be able to shoot my way would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, Brian L
Hi Steve – You were kind to advise me regarding the draft for my new boat last year. Now I am in the process of equipping the boat for a circumnavigation primarily in the tropics. My boat is a 57-foot sloop from X-yachts in Denmark with little windage, the weight is 20 tonnes. I am going to use the Bruce as main anchor and the suggested size for stormy conditions is 30kg, but as I remember from your book you suggest to move up in weight, which in this case will be 50kg. Can you help me to decide between 30 and 50 kg?
I am bringing a 100m stainless chain. Can you recommend an appropriate dimension? Kind regards, Mogens
Dear Steve, I have just read the glazing section for your FPB boat with much interest. Can you tell how the windows where attached to the aluminum structure? Many thanks, John H.
Steve, Hope all is well and everyone is healthy. Richard and Kati have been keeping me apprised to your progress on your latest. Best of luck with it! Do you have a launch date?
As I’m insulating my sailboat, I find that I need a flexible insulation in some areas. The semi-rigid just will not work well!
Richard said that you were using scuba wet suit material. Great idea! This would work well for me several locations against the hulls sharpest curves…behind the nav station, a few lockers, under vanity, etc. So, were can I purchase this material ??
Thank You and Good Luck, say hello to Linda. – Michael
Steve, Seeking your wisdom and guidance. I am looking at a 42′ boat built in Holland made out of steel or aluminum. I live on Long Island and keep the boat in a marina. What is your suggestion for longevity and ease of maintenance, steel or aluminum? I am not so concerned about the price differences, but want the boat to stay healthy and metal hulls are basically an unknown to me. Thanks kindly, James
I have a 50 ft cruising catamaran recently purchased from the owner builder. I note in your cruising encyclopedia that you mention that only cast hatches can be welded directly to the coaming. I was wondering if there was a way to weld lower priced extruded hatches to a 6061 deck? Look forward to your comments.
Hi Steve, I have an ozone generator made by Quantum but I have been reluctant to leave it on for long periods because I understood that ozone would cause deterioration of rubber goods. I see that you leave it on the boat during lay up. Is it on constantly? How do you use it ? Thanks Mike B. s/v Spurwing
Before each passage we’ve learned that it pays big dividends to go over all of the boat’s systems, rigging, and sails to make sure everything is in the proper condition. In the past couple of weeks we’ve spent a few days on Beowulf, getting her ready to head offshore. Here are the items aboard we’ve checked:
From time to time we read in the yachting press about problems with fully battened sails on long down wind passages. We’ve been using these sails for almost two decades now, and have found that with the right approach they are less of a problem than conventional sails.
There are two key ingredients: first, you must have a good vang to keep the sail from twisting off and putting excessive load on the spreaders. If your boom vang to the mast isn’t strong enough, rig a vang to the rail on those long tradewind trips.
Second, chafing gear must be done correctly. We’ve found that thin UHMW plastic (usually 1/32″ thick) can be sewn onto the sail in all vulnerable points (at the spreaders and where each batten crosses a shroud – both need to be done for full hoist and reefed positions). The UHMW lasts for years and does not allow the sail to chafe.