Hi Steve, Firstly thanks for the books, most of which are bending my shelves. I am looking for my first bluewater cruiser (second hand) and am paralyzed by the conflicting hull material shortcoming. You extol aluminum but here in Australia they are expensive and few and far between ( I would love one however). Steel rusts like mad but is good for offshore can be fixed in far flung places and its integrity is sound up to the last minute before failure. GRP is very common but I understand on boats 10–20 years of age osmosis is common in about 60% of cases. Since I, like most people, need to be able to sell the boat at some stage to recover some funds, what is your advice? My view at present is I cannot trust GRP as I cannot be certain of the build quality in a second hand boat even with a survey. So using that logic steel appears to be my main option as what you see is what you get. Am I over petrified about GRP? Best Regards, Martin

Ladies / Gentlemen, I am writing to you because I read where you were a proponent of balsa cored laminate hull construction techniques and have employed balsa coring in the hull construction of some of your boats.

I am considering buying a used cruising sailboat to liveaboard. It is a Bruce Roberts designed 36, pilothouse / cutaway full keel ketch, constructed in 1981, and has a fiberglass hull cored with balsa.

It is not my first boat. I have previously owned a 34 foot skipjack ketch, and a 32 foot Al Mason designed steel sloop, which I lived aboard for two years.

I have searched around the Internet, fruitlessly, for articles or information about balsa cored hulls (except for the Baltek Corp. site–very informative about new technologies). Therefore, could you please direct me to sources for information on evaluating balsa core constructed hulls? Also, the boat is moored in the Ft. Pierce, Florida area. Could you recommend a competent marine surveyor in that area who could conduct a survey of the vessel for me? I am reluctant to just choose any accredited surveyor and not get someone who knows what to look for in evaluating balsa core composite hull construction.

I don’t want to buy a water logged boat. The Baltek site claims that end grain balsa has a closed cell structure and, therefore, very little permeability, even after being submerged for long periods, and covered by fiberglass gelcoat subject to seepage–based on a 14 year test they conducted.

I plan on having the boat hauled for inspection, as part of a pre purchase survey, but am reluctant to start drilling holes in someone else’s’ hull when I’m not even sure of what I would be looking for; spongy? A certain sound when banged against? Also, I am in Louisiana. Before going to the expense of going all the way to Florida, I’d like ask more informed questions of the owners, regarding construction details of the hull laminate process.

Any thoughts you might share with me on the subject would be appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration. By the way, your boats, and the design logic underlying them, are brilliantly conceived. Sincerely, Ed

Greetings! I have been doing alot of reading lately, specifically your Surviving the Storm and the latest Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia books. Excellent pieces of work by the way! I came across a piece of information that puzzled me but I figured it was just a typo. But more recently I came across it again in your FAQ on setsail.com. Specifically, the reference is to the fact that a dipole antenna is superior to a long wire (i.e. insulated backstay). I’m confused about the reference to a dipole giving 8 times the output compared to a longwire. A normal simple dipole antenna has a gain of 3db which results in twice the output not 8 times. Also, the dipole is directional with fairly deep null areas off the ends of the antenna so the 3db gain figure is only really true relative to a point broadside to the antenna. If you really know of a dipole configuration with an 8x advantage (that would be a gain of 9db) please let me know. I currently use a whip for marine SSB and an insulated backstay for the ham rig. Some more gain over the unity gain solutions will be greatly appreciated. Also, thanks for the info on the WH Autopilot. You sold me, I will be ordering one very soon! Smooth Sailing!–Doug Dotson

I BOUGHT A YACHT WITH MOLD INSIDE ON MOST HULL SURFACES WHICH WE HAVE SANDBLASTED. I HAVE CHECKED MANY SOURCES FOR RECOMMENDATIONS. HAVE RECEIVED MANY FROM SPRAY BENZALCONIUM CHLORIDE TO GLACIC ACETIC ACID AND ALCOHOL TO PLAIN CHLORINE BLEACH SPRAY. DO YOU OR ANY ONE HAVE AND RECOMMENDATIONS OR SULUTIONS? FRED

We are about 1/3 of the way through a refit of our Westsail 42 “Heartland” and are now beginning to think about what type of material to use on the dinette and saloon cushions. Ironically we have come across a quantity of leather for a great price but are reluctant to buy. Can you shed any light on how leather would hold up to the marine envirnoment? Thank Your Time, John & Deanna

PS: You Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia has proven invaluable during our refit.

I am currently reading your book Surviving the Storm. In the personal safety gear section you do not mention or opine on the harness PFD combination. What are your thoughts on this product? Dwayne C

Got your books, got your videos, got one question.

I am looking at importing a boat into Canada, BC to be exact. What I am wondering about is, I NEVER see articles or otherwise written on registration issues. If I bring a boat into Canada for example that is not built in the USA or Canada. I am subject to 9.5% duty (if it’s a French built boat), and 7% Provincial sales tax. and 7% G.S.T. This is based on the appraised value of the boat. I see boats registered in The Grand Cayman’s, Bermuda, and other offshore places and I am sure that the owners are Canadians. If I buy a boat in the USA and leave it there I don’t pay Canadian Taxes but I cannot sail it in Canadian waters. Is their such a thing as an offshore registered boat that I can sail in Canadian waters as a Canadian without having to pay all the duty etc. Thanks, any information would be appreciated. An Avid fan, Gord

Hi guys, I have loved reading your articles and have picked up some good tips. Information I'm after is regardinga 240v fridge-freezer on boats. I am currently building a 50ft powercat – long, light and low-powered – in Australia, and want around 250 liters of fridge and 100 liters of freeze. I have had small 12v fridg- freezer in past boats and while they were great , the bigger setup seems to be a bit cost prohibitive. This boat won't be attached to shore power and I didn't really want to have a genset on board. I have seen high output alternators, great while moving but don't really want to have to run motors just to charge batteries if on the hook for a week. I do plan on having 4 X 100 watt panels to help things allong. Can domestic refrigeration be a viable alternative or should I stay with the way expensive 12v? Any advice would be appreciated

A backup to my previous question, this boat CSY 37 has a V drive trans. giving it’s more complicated arrangement than a strait drive, are these prone to problems?? Thanks again Jim

How do you “equalize” Gel cell batteries?——RJB

I’ve currently retrofitted my Cal39 with a Link20 battery monitor, 100amp hr. alternator and the next natural progression for my DC electrical management system is to upgrade my battery system. I in the process of installing two 320 amp hr. 6 volt batteries hooked in parallel to augment my electrical system.

My question is: The size of these 6 volt batteries warrants the proper installation into a locker in my aft cabin. I’m concerned about the presence of corrosive hydrogen sulfide (?) vapors off-gassing (during charging) into a living space. Should I install a vent to ventilate the locker? The existing locker does have “secure” cover as well as a cushion over the top of the locker…Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Kevin S.

Re sailing to Bermuda, what’s the best weatherfax station for the trip–New Orleans? And for Bermuda–Newport, is it the Boston station? Anything we need to worry about weatherwise for the Virgin Gorda–Bermuda run or is it pretty straightforward this time of year? As for Bermuda–Newport, I am basically terrified and am quite tempted by American Airlines. This, from someone who’s sailed 5800 miles, now! There’s no reforming a worrier…

Dear Sailors:Last summer, I was reefing the sail, had my hand on my aluminum mast, and a thunderstorm that was a mile away sent an invisible charge my way and gave me quite a shock with a boom that I think was caused by the main bolt hitting a nearby ridge. What are the odds of getting a strong bolt through the mast? What will occur? We were sailing down in the Keys last month, and a lightning bolt hit a sailboat mast while the boat was on the trailer, out of the water. The mast glowed red for five minutes. I can’t find any information on this subject. Does a lightning bolt destroy radios? Can it hurt the hull? Best regards, Chris

Where can I find weather faxes for the Caribbean on the Internet?

I am thinking of changing my fixed three-bladed prop for something that causes less drag. The Autoprop from Brunton’s Propellers seems very interesting. What do you know about it? P.S. Your Encyclopedia is a fantastic source of knowledge!

Hi, I am deciding between a Newporter 41 & an Islander Freeport 41. My boyfriend & I plan to cruise around the Caribbean for a fairly extended period & both of us have heard mixed reviews about the sailing capabilities of each (spanning…sails pretty good, handles like a dog, porpoises through the water, handles well for a cruising boat). We’re not interested in a high performance racing boat, but we will want to be able to head up into the wind in rough weather. I’ve found basically no info on the Newporter 41, & not too much on the other. Can you help? – Barb

Hi–I’m planning to buy a boat for cruising round the world in the next year and have just ordered your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. I’m interested in prices for your range of yachts–probably looking at 60–65 ft but BEOWULF does look interesting. I would be grateful if you can send me at least budgetary figures for the base boat with basic fit-out (no instruments) and working sails. Many thanks Mark

I am inquiring about any good places to go for Santana 37 info. I have talked with Schock and they have been very helpful. I have also talked with Peter Crane of Peter Crane Yachts. Not much on the Internet about this boat.

I have a chance to buy Destiny II, Hull Number 2 of the Santana series, and wonder if it is a great boat or just a 30-year-old boat. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Eric

Dear Steve, We are building a 46ft cat for live-aboard offshore cruising and have been studying and contemplating your writings with relish…We are ready for rig quotes and have been considering single line reefing – mostly to reduce the number of lines in the cockpit. Our last cat had simple slab reefing with luff & leach lines returning to the cockpit, and it worked very well.

We are concerned about adding complications and are unsure how to do it so, & that if anything goes wrong inside the boom we can fix it easily. Most people we have asked have thought it was OK in smaller boats, but weren’t confident to recommend it for as powerful a rig as ours.

Our cat is ‘a mainsail boat’ with 75sqm main with big roach like Beowulf, and self-tacking jib.

I am wondering if you could tell us how you set up single-line reefing in Beowulf and whether you have any more information or impressions that would help us.

Best wishes with your new project. – Sandy S

We are recent owners of a ’67 boat and sometimes find the hoisting/handling of the main to be cumbersome if not downright difficult. What modifications/solutions can you recommend? What of main furling system? Thank you. Best regards, Phil

I just found your site and was quite intrigued by the variety of information available!…I was particularly happy about the comment on mainsails, in which the mast sits in a sleeve about 2′. The idea is that this should reduce wind shadow around the mast, particularly important when the mast is fairly “fat” as in a cat-ketch.

I am considering building a 30′ wood strip-epoxy boat, and thought of 2 rigs using free-standing rotating masts, both cat-ketch with sleeved sails, one option being a big-roach fully-battened (possible conflict with the sleeves…) and the other gaffs (!), which I think merit consideration for shape control.

For the gaffs, I thought of using struts attached to the mast, parallel to the boom, which would keep the gaffs in alignment with the booms, reducing sail twist.

I worry about upwind performance on a cat-ketch: Any views on this? Would the mainsail interfere very much with the mizzen? Would a jib work well in this arrangement?

I look forward to looking through your site again! Thank you! Tom Kottmeier

Our boat is a traditional sloop, with a fin keel and skeg-hung rudder. (1981 Mariner center cockpit 39′–the keel sits a little more forward than you normally see, but she seems to sail fine in normal conditions.)

We had assumed we would try to squeeze the budget to find cash to install a removeable inner forestay and running backstays for the sole purpose of flying a hank-on storm jib there (with our planned trysail). However, our sailmaker recommends modifying a storm jib into a sail like ATN’s Gale Sail, to set OVER the roller-furling headsail. While I had read that they weren’t great re: center of effort being so far forward, he says it will not be an issue. He said he’d only advise the inner stay & backstays as support for the mast…and that we have a pretty beefy spar as it is so perhaps not necessary. We intend to sail Maine Bermuda Caribbean , then possibly to Europe at some point. We are a crew of 2 parents and a young child. We are on an EXTREMELY tight budget (i.e. most of our gear is being purchased second-hand) so we do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that’s not really necessary.

On the other hand we want to be safe…. Do you have any thoughts or advice on this subject?

I just picked up a copy of your new edition 2 days ago and haven’t put it down. Myself and several others with boats in the 40-foot range meet regularly to discuss our preparations for eventual bluewater cruising. Departures start next year and stagger out for the next 5 years. I’ll be promoting Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia as a purchase (investment) everyone must make. Here is my first question: On page 660 you show a picture of a headboard carrier with an integral sheave. (I now have 2-to-1 using a block on the headboard.)

Where do I purchase the type of carrier shown in your photo??

Our steering pump is mounted at wheel level in the pedestal, you know that gives very poor lock to lock. I noticed that pg 563 in the 1st Encyclopedia shows a pump mounted below the pedestal, with a chain drive to turn it. How do you fill a pump in that position? Can you use it sealed with a reservoir at a lower level? Do you have any better suggestions for solving this problem? – Mike B.

I enjoyed your book Surviving the Storm very much – essential reading – but wonder about how much is possible at night when visibility is poor. Perhaps the sea anchor is needed here, especially if shorthanded. A chapter on methods for retrieving a man overboard would be useful.

Yours Sincerely, Bruce C.

Hi Steve. With a 36 foot waterline, wouldn’t the boat (at least theoretically) have a hull design speed of about 8 knots? [sqrt 36 = 6 x 1.34 = 8.02] Do you find that such boats won’t sail at the design speed? Sidney

Hello Dashews, We love the books and are busy trying to absorb all the info as we plan toward and dream of our own cast off day in 36 months. We have been educating ourselves on design as we continue to search for the right boat for our needs. I agree with your philosophy on waterline and the value of older CCA boats. I also like aluminum or steel (though right now steel seems like a better buy in general).

Here’s the issue–I am 6’5″ tall, my wife is 6’0″ and our two sons 4 and 2 1/2 are destined to be at least that big. That’s a lot of height on a boat. Can you give us some direction on makes of the older boats that would be more inclined to accommodate our height? I know that it is an issue of free board as much as anything but has interior volume and subsequently headroom increased with the newer boats or can we find a pool of appropriate boats built of steel or alum. In the 60s–80s that will save us aching heads? Thanks, Dave

I cruise in Florida and the Bahamas. I am quite worried about mildew problems. Losing a sail to mildew (I would replace it if the stains wouldn’t come out) after a year would be totally unacceptable to me, no matter what the performance compromise I needed to make. Should I stick to Dacron and stay away from all laminated products? Norman Freedman Sabre 452

How do you get insurance to sail as a couple on BEOWULF? I have friends with a Tayana 52 in Hawaii, who are now kind of stranded because their Lloyds policy requires four crew and the other couple (the guy actually) wimped while they were all headed for NZ. Or do you sail bare (which is what I am doing right now as a singlehander)? -Lesley

Hi Steve, I took your advice and got the next size bigger Bruce for my 46 foot, 28 ton displacement schooner. The new 110 lb anchor is quite a conversation piece sitting in the shop while we try to figure out how to mount it. We don’t think a standard bow roller will work because of the 90 deg turn needed to bring the shackle and anchor up onto the roller. It’s difficult enough with the current 60lb CQR. We’re thinking that a pivoting bow roller may work but I’ve not found any rated for that kind of weight. Can you recommend a roller or have any suggestions? Thanks, Carl

Dear Steve, From your books I learned you use schedule 70 chain. Have you had any problems with this chain losing its galvanization? Thanks! John

Good day, I am enjoy your site and also using as a reference source as I am presently having a 42′ aluminum cutter built.

I was wondering if you have and could post a detail/close-up look at your stanchion/lifeline setup. There are several pictures on your site which show an overview and it looks like you used SS pipe going into aluminum pipe stanchion bases welded to the deck. One picture looks like you used SS pipe for some of the lifelines. I would appreciate any details you can provide.

Thank you for considering this request. Cheers, John

Hello, Thanks for both the Offshore and Seamanship: both were great reads. The website is always good for a bit of day dreaming as well as loads of info. Keep up the good stuff!

I’m currently looking into purchasing a smaller (27ft) Dutch classic to enhance sailing, tech and nav skills on coastal North Sea before following the big step dream.

I’ve located a Trintel 1a – in steel and a Trintella 1a in GRP, essentially the same design, both from around 1971. I’d go for steel for security; but the problem is that the steel version is about twice as heavy, still, I’m a bit hesitant about "old plastic"; I’ve read about osmosis, but have no idea what it looks like. Could you give me any ideas on what to look for?

Thanks very much, Eltjo

I’m trying to put zincs on the outside of the alum. hull. No one seems to know how to do it. I can only go by what little was in your book, do they need to be tied together with wire on the inside from the bolts, and should the zincs be against the alum. Hull or can I put them on after the 3 coats of 2000e, or not have them on at all. I would appreciate any help. Thanks, Dale

I really like the push knobs you use on your galley cabinetry, but cannot seem to find them locally. Could you let me know who your supplier is? Much appreciated, Wendy

Greetings. Does your library of encyclopedic knowledge have any definitive source(s) for optimum, spatial ergonomics for the interiors of vessels? For instance, passageways 18″ – 22″ wide? Head & shower stall sizes…what’s adequate (for basic duties and toweling off) yet still economic in size? In a “U” shaped galley is 36″ between counters OK? Seating around a dinette…how much room should be allowed for each “sitter” and comfortable “elbow room”? I trust you get my drift as the list of examples could go on forever. I’ve seen your comments on headroom but very little on provisions for comfort, ease and safety whilst moving about and living on a vessel in a seaway. Hopefully you’ve covered this subject before, but if not, it might make a good topic for consideration.

I should add that I fully appreciate the functioning of a proper boat…not a floating condominium or “gin palace”!…And know the danger factor of being thrown about in overly generous living and/or poorly designed interior spaces. Further, I acknowledge that this topic is subject to personal preferences but believe there is, or should be a baseline to start with. Thank you for any information you can provide. Cheers, Richard

Steve: Hi, We are one of those sailors who bought one of these machines and found out the not immediately apparent serious limitation of these machines: There is high volume of water consumption not for washing but to accomplish the condensation: there is a constant stream of cold water is piped to cool the drum.

And there is another big problem: the temperature of the cooling water. In the tropics the 85+F water temp may not accomplish the condensation at all?! We decided to forgo the installation all together and go to manual machines with clothes lines…John

Regarding turnbuckles, Mike wants a stainless body (open or closed) over a bronze threaded bolt. Alan Blunt says that Navtec is the only company that offers this but it is unnecessarily expensive (Alan seems to be recommending chrome plated bronze body turnbuckles). Which turnbuckles do you recommend for both my standing and running rigging?

I’ve enjoyed your books & website…. keep up the good work! Maybe you could give me some guidance or point me in the right direction. I’m trying to identify marinas which might cater to seasonal liveaboards. My thinking is to keep a boat in the Caribbean, Central America or other interesting/accessible parts of the world and, being from the Chicago area, use the boat as a primary residence and cruising vehicle during the winter. An incomplete list of desirable marina “requirements” might include: good security, sense of community (marina somewhat populated by other liveaboards), good air transport to/from US, reasonable weather protection, repair/haul/storage facilities. These are just some of the thoughts/criteria which come to mind but I’m at a loss for how to go about identifying the best marina options I might want to more closely investigate. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Dear sailing friends, Steve and Linda, My family lived and cruised aboard the S/V White Cloud for many years. We were involved in a marine business and basically the most enjoyable years we can remember.

My son is completing the rebuilding of a West Sail 32 here in Fairbanks and plans to rejoin the sailing life in a couple more years. My daughter also is trying to rejoin however she has home schooled her 6 children in the Bush of Alaska and now two of the 6 are in a high school and honor students.

This request is for her use: Which one of your books will specifically address family concerns that a mother and father of 6 share, i.e., inoculations requirements, money exchanges, children’s education, activities and in general, home and family activities. Obviously, from her present experience years of bush living and successful home schooling, she already has most of the skills. She desires the confidence ( and her husband) from people That we from the sailing/cruising community, recognize as being successful.

So you have a rather long winded thing in way of background. Her (Cara) 36th birthday is fast approaching and hopefully you may have a word or two as a suggestion for me to purchase.

Sincerely with thanks, Paul C. (former Skipper S/V White Cloud from Juneau)

PS: I’m redoing an old Tartan 27T to trailer to the warmer climites for winters in retirement

Are you pleased with the frigoboat keel cooler installation on Wind Horse? If so, about what depth and width and length aluminum box did you put on the inside of the hull for a keel cooler and did you use fresh water or a glycol mixture? (I realize the box only needs 4 sides and flanged top edges to fasten the fiberglass). Fair winds, David

I noticed in your video, BEOWULF: The Epic Continues that she has a fuel flow meter. I have been interested in installing a fuel flow meter on my boat (80 HP Perkins diesel) but have been discouraged because all small capacity fuel flow meters are designed for gas engines and do not have to deal with return line fuel flow. What model / brand of fuel flow meter do you use on BEOWULF and how do you have it plumbed to address the fuel flow in the return line. Thank you very much for your assistance. Downing

Hi, my name is Naroa, I don’t know much about boats. I’m doing an investigation on the length of time a 115Hp motor should be going. We have a fleet of boats that coast guard a manmade lake that supplies water to the Panama Canal. We have 3 shifts a day which means that the boats have their motor running for 8 hours. I need to know what you consider the life expectancy of these boats to be? PS Your answer is VERY IMPORTANT.

Hi Steve, Once again here I am at your information trough. Well, INTERLUDE is on the dry getting bottom job so I am going to address the long-overdue absence of some form of lightning protection. Here on the Mississippi Gulf coast, lightning damage is a very real threat, as my dock neighbor got a firsthand appreciation of the awesome damage a strike can inflict–all electronics shot, and a total of 72 exit points in the hull, 4 of which where about 1/4″ in diameter–2 below the waterline. Flooding was kept in check because the 2 major exit points occurred in integrated water tanks

INTERLUDE, a Hans Christian, Christina 40, has a deck stepped rig with all metal components except chainplates bonded together with #8 cable. Why they omitted the chain plates is beyond me, but I intend to address that in this project.

What I am proposing to do is construct a submersed ground plate, 5″ by 72″ of 3/16 or 1/4″ copper, connected thru the hull with silicon bronze 1/4″ or 5/16″ carriage bolt connectors and marine sealant every 8″ or so (overkill?). This satisfies the ISO ground plate standard of 2.5 sq. feet. The reasoning behind the plate dimension is that studies have shown that the edge surface of the conductor plays a very important part in strike dissipation. So, in an attempt to improve on the ISO standard, I have increased the exposed linear edge rather than just going with a square plate. To this plate via the carriage bolts, I will connect #4 cable to the compression post and #6 to the chain plates.

Now comes the problem of the mast to compression post connector. The aluminum mast sits on a stainless deck base which is through-bolted to the bronze compression post. Intuition tells me not to rely on this mechanical connection but weld a lug to the mast and again connect one of the stainless through-bolts to the mast with #4 cable which should insure a good low-resistance electrical path. At the masthead will be a rod sticking 6″ above the VHF antenna and for good measure, one of those bottle-brush dissipaters. OK, now I have that immersed chunk of copper. Will I be inviting cathodic problems if I include these components in the bonding system or should I isolate the lightning protection components (mast, stays, chainplates, compression post and ground plate) from the bonding system and let them reach their own electrical potential? What do you think of the solution? Thanks, so much. All the best to you, Linda and the family, Kevin, Bay St. Louis, MS.

Hi–I took your advice (article on The New Way to Get Weather Faxes) and got weather faxes from Marine Prediction Center. When I opened them they were scrambled letters and numbers only. Is the TIF format something I need to have a program for in order to decode and read? Thanks, Frank

Steve, This may seem like a dumb question, but….How does the height above the water affect the anemometer readings? The reason I ask this is that my mast is 56ft off the water and it seems that the wind speed readings I get are consistently higher than mates of mine that have shorter (i.e. 35ft) masts. I have B&G gear so it should be accurate….is there a formula that we can apply to get surface wind speed, knowing the height of our instruments ? Thanks Cheers Alan

I bought the Mariner’s Weather Handbook and find it helpful. I have a question, though. On page 123, you attempt to show divergence/convergence on a drawing (bottom of page). I have read it 10 times and don’t understand what you are trying to tell me. It is early in your discussion of this subject and so I do not want to move on without an understanding. Can you elaborate on what that drawing is showing me? Thank you, George

What kind of prop do you use on BEOWULF and is it a feathering prop or folding? I know that you do motor sail and I wonder how you came to the size and pitch that you needed for the boat. I also liked the Bermuda story about the weather, you made a very good move by moving to a new location, it could have been a bad situation had you not moved. Good Sailing, Gary H

Hi Steve, I’m reading Offshore Cruising Enc. at the moment, which is excellent. We are a couple in the mid 30’s and plan to set sail along the Tradewinds on a Columbia 43 (MK I – 1970) we have seen and plan to buy. As you started in a Columbia 50, we would appreciate your feelings about Columbia 43’s for Tradewind sailing (and maybe more in future). We are not too happy with the deep draft and the unprotected rudder, however, she seems safe, comfortable, with lots of room and most importantly, she would be in line with our budget for that size of waterline! Any thoughts? Thanks a lot !!! Stephan

Hi Steve, I have been researching the used boat market for monhulls in Florida and am looking for a 40-45 foot monohull. I have a budget of 70,000 for a used boat and then know that it may take another 30000-40000 to complete the process to have all that I would want to be safe and comfortable to take off for 5 years.

I wanted to get your advice on some hulls that I have found. First is the cost effective Morgan 41-415 and 416 years 1976 and 1978. A lot of boat for the money. But I know it is slow and the quality may not be desirable. Second is a 1977 Halberg Rassey 41. A blue water boat, a center cockpit. I feel it is solid and quality built. Has all the room we need. Third is a 1974 Soverel 48. A long water line fast boat with a hull and keel design similar to your yachts.

All the boats I look at that are aft cockpit in this size have small master cabins. The center cockpits have big master cabins. A big cabin is important to us. I know you don't like center cockpits. If I could get some advise on the above boats or if you could recommend some yachts I should be hunting for with aft cockpits that you would buy if you had my budget and size requirement. This would be most helpful to start my process right. I am trying to follow all your advise but must start with an older used yacht. Thank you so much. Good luck. Corey

I have a Beneteau Oceanus 381, and would like to speak to anyone else who has a 381 or similar. As a production boat, I think she can do a circumnavigation. She meets D.T.I. standards for blue water cruising, but I would love to hear other people’s opinions as to the viability of such a venture. Thanks for any advice. Yours, Martin

Dear Steve, Thank you for taking the time to read our email. We are selling our home to buy a yacht to cruise the oceans to enjoy our time together. I’m a marine mechanic specializing in power boat refits. I have limited sailing experience and Karen has even less.

We are currently shopping for a yacht with the intentions of learning on the boat we will be cruising on. We have your books and recently purchased a video you appear in (Heavy Weather Sailing), we found it all very exciting and informative. We are planning on spending the next year or three learning and doing all the necessary courses to become competent offshore sailors.
The yachts we are looking at are mainly masthead rigs but we have come across a fractional (Farr 1104) which shows a lot of potential as a cruiser/live-on.

Although you suggest water length to be main consideration, this is the largest within our price range. I am aware of the sailing differences between fractional and masthead after reading your books, but I have no experience sailing on fractional rigs and am not sure of the difference of rig strength.

The type of yachts we are looking at are:

Duncanson 35′ Masthead
Northshore 33′ Masthead
Farr 36′ Fractional

Just once again thank you for your time and valued advice. – Alen S

After watching your Offshore Cruising Video, I happened to see a picture of a ketch rigged with junk sails. One reminded me of the other. Is that where you got the idea for the fully battened sails front and rear? I sure do like that combination. Do you think it would work for a 40 ft. boat? What is your opinion of junk rigged cruising sailboats? Sidney

Hello. We have the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and the Mariner’s Weather Handbook, as well as the Dashew Offshore Video (which my VCR promptly ate), and I’ve enjoyed them immensely.

We have a 1978 Hudson Force 50 Ketch. We have just found out that our mizzen mast is rotten, and are planning to replace it with an aluminum one. My question is about the (wooden, painted) main mast and boom. According to a very experienced friend, the main mast has “some” rot, but may be able to be saved by removing all hardware and stripping it down to the wood, and inspecting. If we/he determines the mast can be fixed, we would fix the rotten places and repaint the mast. He thinks both port side spreaders will need to be replaced.

In addition, the main boom has bad rot in the lower scarf, just below the glue joint, (also) just below the big bronze fitting (name?) on the boom, which attaches to the gooseneck. The stainless tangs on the main look, at best, “fair”.

We plan to take the boat offshore in a few years. If we refurb the mast, is it advisable to replace the stainless (it is 1978 Taiwanese stainless) with new 316? Do you think the risk justifies replacing the main mast/boom with a new aluminum spar also? Thanks, Mike

Hello Steve: We are the owners of Tera Nova which we have renamed Mango Tango. We are sailing her around the world and are currently in Malaysia at Port Dickson Marina. We plan to join the Raja Muda Regatta in November. We have done a complete refit since buying the boat in 1999. We added A/C and a generator, changed motors to a 110 HP Volvo, and repainted and many small changes including carbon fiber pole and electric halyard winch. We have averaged, since leaving on our trip, 195 miles per day when sailing. The boat is just terrific we just have not seen any boat as owner friendly, fast and comfortable. We would like to install an asymmetrical spinnaker and would like your advice on a bow sprit. Thank You.

Hello, I was hoping to get your opinion on the S2 9.2 center cockpit…My plan is to liveaboard the boat in the Seattle and/or Portland areas, cruise the Sound, and at the maximum cruise up and down the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North America and cross the Atlantic to Bermuda and back. All this sailing will be done “in season” – I have no intention of tackling the North Pacific in the middle of winter, for instance. My sailing skills are minimal so I don’t really want to get in over my head when it comes to waterline/size…figured the 30′ S2 with its aft stateroom and center cockpit would be a good compromise…? Thanks…

What would be the best wind vane for a 22 foot O’Day sailboat? What do you think of a basic servo-pendulum steering gear? – Melanie E

Dear Steve & Linda: I have a NONSUCH 30, and would like to know if you have any comments about modifying your storm tactics for a catboat rig. The large forward mast makes it nearly impossible to stay into a heavy wind…and heaving-to is not an option. At anchor, as would be with a sea-anchor, the boat wanders at right-angles to a heavy wind. While I thankfully haven’t had to try it in heavy seas, I have found that anchoring off a stern corner keeps the boat headed downwind pretty steadily…of course it causes extra windage, and makes the cockpit area a wet and windy place. I am eagerly looking forward to studying your book…overcoming anxiety is worth a lot in being able to think through a stressful situation…and your spouse having greater confidence in you and the boat is PRICELESS!

My question is this. I feel that BEOWULF is too big for me. I don’t really want to deal with so many sails and the cost and effort to maintain, dock, haul, paint, etc. a 78-foot ketch, even if I have to go a little slower. I expect that, as in the past, you can’t help but always be thinking about how you might build a successor to your current yacht. Historically your yachts have always gotten bigger, but I was wondering if you had ever given any consideration to a new design, maybe in the 50-foot range, for those of us that are a little less aggressive in our cruising requirements than are you and Linda. A boat like the Farr 50 Pilothouse seems to have interesting design characteristics but I have not test sailed one because it doesn’t have sufficient headroom for me and I don’t want to waste their time. Because I am 6’3″ tall, and refuse to have to duck anywhere on my own boat,I require an absolute minimum of 6’6″ headroom throughout, including heads and showers. After many years of trying to find a boat in the 48-53-foot that is based on the design characteristics that you have pioneered, with an attractive pilothouse and an interior that is designed for both voyaging and live aboard, I am finally giving serious consideration to custom building a boat. I have eschewed this option until now for fear of making a mistake and owning a white elephant, which I can ill afford, but it seems that no production builder is going to build my dream boat for me while I am still young enough to use it. Whether you are interested in such project, or might suggest a couple of yacht designers whom you favor, I would appreciate your thoughts. Jeff

I am trying to locate a contact number/E-mail/website for the Paul Luke large aluminum cowls you mention in the cruising encyclopedia. Grateful if you could assist.–Andrew

I own a Cal 34 III and would like to know what physical measurements I need to provide to my sailmaker to determine the maximum mainsail roach I can put on my sloop.

Aloha from Hanalei Bay, Kauai. I am in the process of making a hurricane plan for AVALON, one of your beautiful, well thought out and seaworthy Sundeer 60s. She is now happily living in Nawiliwili, Kauai.

I think that in the event of a hurricane I will anchor her in the harbor rather than leave her at the dock. I am considering a 50 lb Danforth style anchor on about 20 feet of chain shackled to the 120 lb Bruce on the 5/16 schedule 70 300 ft anchor cable. I also plan to put a 30 lb kellet on the chain rode. Thoughts? Aloha, Scott

what is your view on using big swivel to connect the anchor to the chain? I was reading Earl Heinz’ book on anchoring and it seems important to put them on the right way around – Phil

Hi Steve, I am looking to buy a plan of a sailboat with between 38 & 40 feet with small draft (1.20 to 1.40 m). I know Hartley boats but I would like to contact other designers that have plans to be made in Ferrocement. Do you know any? Best Regards, Eduardo

I just ordered a J-BOAT J 109, and would appreciate your opinion about the possibility to improve the security in terms of buoyancy if…I learnt that inflatable buoyancy bags are not currently available; to my knowledge the only builder Yachtsaver is not still on the market. Another solution for this boat would be to transform the door between the forecabin and the saloon into a water pressure resistant door, such as in boats like the Maramu by Amel. This solution is not perfect, but, since the main risk is a frontal collision, it may be a significant point. In my opinion, at sea, a door must be open or closed, and the forecabin is not usable in practice. So, at sea, this door can be closed. How to get something efficient, light, and safe? I wonder if a device such as a timbered safety door, as those for theft protection would be the solution. I am very interested in your analysis and I would be grateful if you could help me. Yours sincerely, Alain P

My wife and I have read the Cruising Encyclopedia. It’s a fantastic guideline for sailors. All kinds of tips and safety issues we put on our 37ft sailboat. After reading the book we had only one wish. Making our own cruise in the year 2004 with our two daughters in a Sundeer yacht.

Buying a new or secondhand model is not possible. But we wonder if it’s possible to buy a hull of a Sundeer 56 and finish the interior of the boat in three or four years ourselves, with the Cruising Encyclopedia as a guideline. Some questions were raised when we thought about this idea. I hope you can find the time to answer the following questions. I thank you in advance.

1) Do you sell drawings of the Sundeer 56 so we can have the hull made in Holland? If so what are the costs. 2) Are there already Sundeer yachts built in Europe? If so who can I contact for information. 3) The original Sundeers are made of aluminum. I want to make the boat from steel. Is that possible? -Peter

I have an alum. yacht. It’s been sitting on blocks for 6 months so I can work on it. I noticed a month ago a small hole the size of a pin head appeared. Now I have 14 of them, all in the area of the heads. Any ideas why? How can I stop it, and fix it? Any advice would be appreciated.–Dale Quigley

Steve, What system do you use for e-mail and Internet access at sea? What connection speeds do you get? Is it good enough to get the NOGAPS Java movies within a reasonable time frame? What are the options?–Alan

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers, solenoids etc. I can’t find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me?

Hi Linda and Steve: I am enjoying your articles about maintaining Beowulf, and was interested in the piece on your washing machine.

My wife is happy enough to wash by hand, but would like a spin dryer or similar.

Can you offer any advice? – Thanks, Chris

Where would one go to find a consumers report on sailing vessels? Carl

Hello Next year I am sailing to Cape Horn on a Bristol Pilot Cutter. I am currently reading the second edition of your brilliant book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia–it is providing me with so much information and inspiration. Thank you. However I would love to get hold of the first edition of this excellent book–do you have any for sale or any idea how I could do this? I would really appreciate your advice on this. Thanks again for writing the book. love Emma M

We are considering starting our cruising lifestyle with a 16 year old female who has 2 years of high school left. Our plan was to retire to a cruising lifestyle after she completed high school and enters college. Due to a possible economic change we may want to start earlier.

Does anyone out there know if you can successfully educate a high schooler during the last 2 years and obtain a high school diploma? If you can, is it very difficult and what about social issues?

Any information would be greatly appreciated for this couple who is anxious to get out there. Thank you for your help. Avarie

Reading your website on your new power boat and went through the refrigeration section. I had long ago figured a powerboat could be made quiet and the cost of running was less than sail. Your thoughts on hull design are spot on as far as I can reason and follow my thoughts for a long-legged sea cruising boat. BUT – on to my question – where can I get power requirements for the Danfoss Compressors?