Following is where you’ll find Steve & Linda’s more technical articles, along with Cruisers’ Q & A…If you’re looking for info on the nuts and bolts of cruising, this is the section for you!
I have an alum. yacht. Is there some kind of instrument that would tell me if electrolysis was present? In the book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, it made mention of silver-chloride by engelhard/systems but…I can’t seem to locate anything like that. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Dale Quigley
Our catamaran is being delivered to Ensenada just after Christmas. Can you point me to information regarding sailing north from Ensenada to San Francisco. Thanks, Steve
Steve, Do you know of a good display of Gulfstream temperature and current conditions available online (i.e. that shows eddies and current patterns)? Thanks.
I’m starting to practice weather forecasting with the 500mb and surface charts. The NWS site has lots of different charts with different forecasts such as 12,24 or 36hr forecasts. Which one of these would you recommend that I use to practice?
These are the charts I download: 15.00Z Surface Analysis Chart Part 1 10E-45W Northern Hemisphere Size: 38.4K–Updated: Fri Nov 26 03:23:37 1999 UTC 16.00Z Surface Analysis Chart Part 2 40W-95W Northern Hemisphere Size: 32.5K–Updated: Fri Nov 26 03:33:36 1999 UTC 28.00Z 500MB Surface Chart Analysis 45W-85W Northern Hemisphere Size: 26.8K–Updated: Thu Nov 25 23:23:35 1999 UTC.
I’m “superimposing” the 500mb on the surface analysis charts to forecast what the weather will be like for the next 24 hrs. Am I on the right track?? Regards, Susan
I replaced my fixed prop ( 3-blade 16 RH 10) with a 17 RH 10 Flex-O-Fold 2-blade folding prop. I have experienced much improved speed under sail and not bad performance in reverse. However, I am unable to get full cruising RPM in forward and because of this am not able to motor cruise at much more than 4.3 knots. My vessel is a Nautilus 37 with a 35 hp Yanmar diesel. Also I am experiencing vibration at 1900 RPM which I did not have with my fixed prop. Any suggestions? Ron
Dear sailor friends, I recently saw a lovely 36 foot Formosa Ketch I am dreaming to acquire and get sparkling again. The woodwork needs some care. The hull looks sound as far as I can see above water. But before I get the boat hauled out, do you know of any problems with this boat, that was apparently built in 1980 in Taiwan, with 1-inch-thick fiberglass. Do you know anything about this type of boat, since I found no information in all my books and very little on the web. Thank you, Helmut S
There is a 1985 Deerfoot 72 on the market, apparently built by Dencho Marine. This design is not listed in your “Milestones.” Is this one of your boats? Any info on quality or issues? Even though it is newer, it is priced considerably less than Wakaroa (it is clear from the pictures that the interior finishes are not nearly of the same quality). Thanks for any info you can provide. Mark
Hi Steve & Linda, Well we have made the first step!….I have resigned from my job and my wife has secured a two year leave of absence from her job (starting in July). Thanks in large part to you guys who have inspired us over the years we shall take our two kids 9 & 11 on a two year adventure. I am using the next 6 months to prepare the house for rent, sell my current boat (33′ too small) and buy THE BOAT. I have your book…it is my bedside companion…and have followed your website and FAQs. I’m going for waterline if I can find one in my budget–approx. $150K…we have been looking at the Hylas 44 and 47…your comments on this boat would be appreciated. We intend to spend 6 mos. in the Bahamas (our backyard) then on to the Caribbean. Many thanks!
Before each passage we’ve learned that it pays big dividends to go over all of the boat’s systems, rigging, and sails to make sure everything is in the proper condition. In the past couple of weeks we’ve spent a few days on Beowulf, getting her ready to head offshore. Here are the items aboard we’ve checked:
From time to time we read in the yachting press about problems with fully battened sails on long down wind passages. We’ve been using these sails for almost two decades now, and have found that with the right approach they are less of a problem than conventional sails.
There are two key ingredients: first, you must have a good vang to keep the sail from twisting off and putting excessive load on the spreaders. If your boom vang to the mast isn’t strong enough, rig a vang to the rail on those long tradewind trips.
Second, chafing gear must be done correctly. We’ve found that thin UHMW plastic (usually 1/32″ thick) can be sewn onto the sail in all vulnerable points (at the spreaders and where each batten crosses a shroud – both need to be done for full hoist and reefed positions). The UHMW lasts for years and does not allow the sail to chafe.