I agree with the waterline length as being very important…both to speed and comfort. On a limited budget does either a Hunter 54 or a Columbia 50 make sense as a safe and reliable cruising sailboat? Their main sailing areas will be the Caribbean and, hopefully, the Mediterranean. Other options are a Lubbe Voss 42 and a Valiant 40. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ian

Due in part to your wonderful books and timing, I will be looking for a yacht this summer in the US My short list looks something like this:

Palmer Johnson (Aluminum), Frers 45, 1981, PHRF30— Just the basics Palmer Johnson (Aluminum), Peterson 42, 1976, PHRF60— Moderate cruising comfort Davidson (Fiberglass), Laurie Davidson 44, 1981, PHRF54— Moderate to well equipped for cruising Jeremy Rogers (Fiberglass), Peterson 39, 1981, PHRF72— Well equipped for cruising Aquacraft 1979 (Aluminum), Custom 41, 1977, PHRF90?— Just the basics, but a good price C&C (Fiberglass), Many 39-41, 1977-82, PHRF 99— Various.

I will be using it to cruise the Atlantic and Mediterranean for the most part, but one of these days a circumnavigation would not be out of the question. My questions are…Am I on the right track with these choices for the intended purpose, or have I missed the mark completely? From your experience, are there any of these I should stay away from, or buy in a hurry before anyone else does? I know you are busy, but a quick comment or two would be greatly appreciated.–Regards, Tom

Can a ratchet block be used in order to control the release of a furling line? The 44′ boat I recently purchased uses a small diameter spectra line for furling, and if and when it takes off in a breeze, it can do great damage to the hands! If you let it go, it usually kinks in the aft furling block. Thanks, Ted

Dear Steve, I have written before and always have received a kind and enlightening response. I recently had our mast unstepped, repainted, and rewired (spreader lights, vhf, wind NMEA, anchor lights, etc.) . The electronics guy installed a new pvc tube for a wire chase.

Our mast is stepped on deck (metal boat). The wiring feeds out of the mast about 6" above the deck. The cable splits into two bundles (taped) and the two bundles are fed through metal stand pipes throughwelded through the deck (port and starboard). The teak j box in the salon leaks whenever it rains.

I don’t know whether the electronics guy left a Ptrap with the wire before he fed it out of the mast. I also am wondering if the fit at the mast step could be so tight as to not allow water to drain out the step, but rather sit and collect until it gets deep enough to follow the wiring chase and ultimately end up in the cabin.

I don’t want to unstep the mast again to look. And I don’t want to unnecessarily bore a hole in the mast to allow drainage if no need exists. Any advice? Thanks, Wayne

Dear Steve: I read your comment regarding your new single-line reefing system and your intention to write about it ( 6Sept 2000 article). Have you done that somewhere? I’m in New Zealand rethinking my reefing system and sail controls in general and I’d be interested in your thoughts. One of the riggers here is telling me that he has good luck on big boats with single-line reefing, so I’m tempted to try it. My boat is only 52 feet, so he thinks it would be no problem. Randy

Hi Steve, I read your comments on the North Sail site regarding mainsail roach. Interesting. I know that for my own experience, a full-battened main with considerable roach (a couple of boats ago) improved performance noticeably, and also seemed to keep the boat on her lines in a range of wind angles and speeds.

I am curious about your thoughts on vertical battens for conventional in-mast furling systems.

I am talking specifically about my Hylas 54. It’s a Frers design with a pretty modern underwater shape. I like the way she sails, but feel that the mainsail performance is marginal. I think I am going to change to a system that offers battens and some roach.

What do you think regarding in-boom vs. in-mast systems? In-boom seems to offer better disaster control if the system fails, and can offer full horizontal battens, but the in-mast systems now also offer increased roach and full battens (albeit up and down), and give greater sail shape and twist control with the outhaul. Any thoughts?? Regards, Rich

Hi, I have searched my copy of the Encyclopedia for an answer to this question and not found it. My wife and I learned this past summer while chartering a 34′ sloop in the San Juan’s that the boat was just not big enough for us. So we have started taking out larger boats (up to 46′ so far). However, we are finding that many are not set up for shorthanded sailing by a couple over about age 50, especially in Monterey Bay outside of Santa Cruz.

We have been considering the kind of equipment we want on our future “own” boat, and have been looking into electric and hydraulic assisted sail and rig handling equipment (winches, vangs, backstays, etc.).

My concern though is about backup in case of hydraulic and/or electrical system failure. I have figured backups for the electronic gear, but have not found information on how to backup these major “muscle assisting” systems. I am interested in your thoughts. Thank you, Jim

Steve have you ever used a masthead tv camera with pan and tilt to con the boat through coral heads, etc. Thanks Jerry, Venice, CA

Dear Sirs, Please advise which autopilot system will be better for a 12m. steel ketch: Autohelm or Robertson? We have a hydraulic steering system by Vetus. I would like also to know which self-steering you would recommend? We have a central cockpit. Our intention is to sail from the Arabian Sea to Australia so we need really good gear. So far, we have sailed from Slovenia to Oman (wintertime on Med) – hand-steering all the time and only two of us. To be honest, I (would rather) have something to help in the future. Last question – how many solar panels should we have to be able to run fridge and have a hot water system as well? I have ordered your Encyclopedia and am waiting for it to arrive. Thank you for your help. – Nina

Hi Steve, I read that you felt at one time your Sundeer 56/60 was one of your best designs. After your experience with Beowulf, are there any significant changes that you would make to that boat? A better question is if you were going to design a similar sized boat today, what would it be like? Thank you, Downing Mears

Is there a listing of used Dashew boats available?–Tom

Dan: I am considering purchasing an ex-bareboat Jeanneau 51. One of my requirements is that the vessel be suited for passagmaking including windward ability. My strongest reservation about this particular model is the standard in-mast furling rig.

If you were designing a sail inventory to take this vessel back and forth from Newport to St. Lucia each year, what would your choices be? Fullbatten main (Spectra or Dacron?) how many battens & reefs?, Code 0 ? Staysail on removable stay?, #2 on separate furler? Thanks, Richard

Greetings, I have purchased two of your books, with CDs, and they are excellent. I refer to them regularly to solve specific problems and for general learning (random open and read).

One area I want more information on, and cannot find in either of the books (Surviving and Offshore) is motorsailing. In addition to your two books, I have done quite a bit of research on the web, looked for magazine articles (current and archive), etc., and still cannot find any information. All I can find is the occasional reference to motorsailing in some trip logs.

I am interested in the theory and practice of motorsailing, and the pros and cons, cautions (re: sails, motor) etc. Can you provide this information and/or refer me to a qualified source of information on this.

By the way, another item I couldn’t find in your books was on the matter of what gear/or neutral to leave the engine in when sailing (I recently switch from a folding to three-blade fixed prop). Thanks, Howard

Will 3/8 HT chain work in a Lofrans 10 mm gypsy? Or will I have to order my chain in France? – Paul Camp

Linda/Steve, You are the woman and the man! I am building a 46′ aluminum Radford R14 pilothouse. Your specs on the FPB 83 note 1/2" Armaflex insulation on the hull – why not thicker insulation? Does your choice of Armaflex usher in a product that will become the aluminum boat standard insulation? Appreciate your reply. – John

Dears Sirs, I have read your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia with great pleasure and have decided to go on with building a new alu boat, about 45 feet. From a local designer I have got a design plan, including the areas of the hull, deck, cockpit and cabintop (the complete outer skin). The builder I have contacted is calculating the building costs for the aluminium parts by kg. The weight of skin of the hull, deck, cockpit and cabintop should be 1800 kg, excluding the inside frameworks and tanks. Do you have a good guess about how much the complete aluminium-part of the boat will weigh? The builder claims it you be factor 1.5 = 2700 kg. Regards, Jan B. Hansen, Sailmaker

Hello Steve: I have been looking for an affordable cruising boat. This weekend I looked at an Allmand 31. I really liked it and am thinking about putting an offer on her. As I was checking the hull, I noticed that the place in the boat yard where she is stored had some erosion from a rain storm, and the logs under the keel had sunk in, which has caused two of the aft jack stands to cause the hull to deflect. It looks like they were moved when this was noticed, but you can see the two spots port and starboard where there is a slight concave deflection. In your experience, will this come out?

I asked the broker to call the owner and have someone put new blocks under the boat and reposition the jack stands to structural stringers. But don’t know much about hulls when they have been flexed like that. Any information you might know about similar situations would be greatly appreciated. I want to make an offer, but I also know how important the hull is to the seaworthiness of a vessel.

We have an Ice Box (we are considering putting a cold plate or other cooling thingie in but the question remains the same). Has anyone come up with a handy way to utilize this unfriendly space? It is top loading, deep, and much longer than it is wide. I get very cranky trying to keep it together, get in there without a neck cramp and use the food before it goes bad. I was thinking there may be some plastic baskets that are tiered or stackable. Any ideas? Best, Carol

Dear Steve and Linda- I read with great interest your article about vacuum packing food and clothes. (To read the article, click here.) We are planning on cruising the Caribbean in a few years, and I have a few questions if you don’t mind.

When you said that you vacuum packed cereals, how did you do that without crushing the cereal to crumbs? (Did you buy any of the Tillia hard storage containers, or use glass mason jars?) How did you vacuum pack flour into bags, without the flour being sucked into the machine?

Finally, how in the world do you get jackets into the little bags for the food/fresh saver? I can see using the bags sold to be compressed by a vacuum cleaner, as they are quite large, but haven’t had much real success with them keeping their seal–but I may have had a bad batch.

Thanks for your help. Beth

Hello,

I need a word of advice: Would you feel comfortable leaving a boat unattended for a month in St. Lucia Rodney Bay Marina or you would prefer moving it to Guadeloupe or Antigua? Thanks for your help, Giorgio

I have a Tayana 47…my initial cruising plans are as follows:

I am sailing with the ARC Europe 2002, from St. Augustine, Florida to Lagos, Portugal, via Bermuda and the Azores, this May. I then plan on cruising Gibraltar, Spain, the Balearic Islands, Morrocco,and the Canary Islands in the summer and fall. In November 2002, I will again rejoin the ARC, for the passage from the Canaries to St. Lucia, West Indies, in November 2002. Thereafter, I will spend some time, possibly two years cruising the Caribbean, before commencing a westward circumnavigation, through the Panama Canal, and across the Pacific. My questions, based on the above itinerary, are as follows:

1. Should I join a yacht club here in the States before I leave, in order to take advantage of club reciprocity? Is it necessary?
2. Should I install a European gas tank and fitting for cooking? I currently have 2, 20 lb. propane tanks in a dedicated locker. Shall I replace one with a European (camping gaz and fittings) system. I am not sure if my Force 10 propane stove will work with Butane? Will find out next week at the Miami Boat Show.
3. My battery charger will work with 110v, 50 htz. I will be installing a transformer to bring current down from 220 to 110. I currently use a 50 amp shore power cord. What kind of cord will I need in Europe? My A/C pump is 110/60. Can I run it with 110/50, without significant damage, if I am only using it for a few months at that cycle rate?
4. Will I need a gang plank for my short stay in Europe? I will probably spend time in Marinas in Spain and Morocco, but want to do more anchoring than Marinas generally.
5. I am planning on using an Iridium phone for my e-mail, rather than fitting out my SSB with a modem for such usage. What are you thoughts on this decision?

Thank you in advance for your prompt response to these questions. And more important, thank you for all you guidance and encouragement in my preparations. Sincerely Yours, Phillip

Hi: I would like to know what you consider the minimum a couple would need to set up a cruising boat in the 35′ range-we are looking for a Ferro-cement at present. I also believe in the ‘less is more’ approach. Thank you and good cruising

John K.

I am looking at different courses in naval architecture and would appreciate any opinions you have. I am not employed in the boating industry, but figure that studying naval architecture could be helpful for both my interest in sailing, and as a future possible career path following a planned period of extended cruising. I have a degree in engineering. I have considered going back to university to do a masters (for example at Michigan), but I think this may miss the point; probably too academically focussed and esoteric research based. I have also looked at The Landing School in Maine, and Westlawn Institute distance courses. Unfortunately, I am having a tough time finding any independent opinion on any of the above avenues. I would appreciate it greatly if you have any opinions, or could suggest an alternative. Thanks & regards, Paul PS your publications are most interesting.

Hi there. We are currently assisting friends to ready their vessel on which we are crewing for the passage from New Zealand to Fiji. We are installing an ICOM 710 SSB, however, as the yacht is of aluminum construction we have run into the interesting question of how to safely earth the radio. We have had a variety of suggestions made to us but would be keen for your advice. Looking forward to hearing from you. Many thanks, Jan

What do you think about glazing up the pistons with running the engine so much with no load on it (my father is an engineer with a tractor manufacturer!)? Swan says run your engine occasionally up to 3400rpm and get the soot out!! Sounds pretty scary? What do you think? Regards Phillip

I’ve enjoyed reading through the FAQ’s on your web site. I saw a references to the Yachtsaver “air bag” system to prevent yachts from sinking but their website and phone numbers are no longer in service. Have they been purchased by another company or are they out of business? Are there any other companies with similar products? Thanks, Steve Gentry

Hi folks – If you were a small Falmouth Cutter 22, heading around the world, on what date would you most like to leave Panama, in order to best avoid the South Pacific typhoon season? This is the only piece of essential cruising information I can’t find on your marvelous web site. Thank you very much. Dr. Gene

I read recently of your joining Sail Mail. I, like you, have a dedicated wfax. Have you switched to ssb–computer weather , or do you still use the wfax primarily? I have a SEA235, didn’t know about its duty cycle when I bought it, have a fast laptop with 400mb of ram, but am also told it will cost additional 1500-1700 dollars for the modem, cables etc. and additional software. So I desire your opinion as to its worth, primarily for weather. Thanks, Dave.

Greetings from Cartagena, Columbia. We purchased your Mariners’s Wx Handbook in August and have enjoyed reading it as we sailed West from Curacao. This has been a very unusual year in the Caribbean with the late hurricane “Lenny” that tracked East from Jamaica to St. Martin and now all the rain on the coast of SA in the normally dry month of Dec. It looks like a La Nina event with the cold water off the coast in the Pacific. Your book talks about El Nino but not much about La Nina. We are planning a cruise to the South Pacific this Spring. Can you tell us how this might affect the wx patterns? Or can you give me some references of web sites etc. to check. Hope to hear from you soon and best wishes for the holidays, Tom and Maureen

Question: I was going to install a feathing prop on my Nautic Saintongue 44 during this spring’s haul-out. Presently, I have postponed this investment because I met a couple in La Paz this winter who had a feathering prop on a Passport about the same displacement as my boat. I asked them if the prop (maxi) was working for them. They replied that if they had to consider it again, they would not do it again. Basicially it was not worth the investment.

So, what is your opinion on replacing a fixed three blade with a maxi type prop? From manufacturers reports I have read, an increase in speed will be realized, but on a 25,000 lb. displacement boat, is the investment worth it? I do not race, but like to get from one place to the next as quickly as possible.

What prop has worked best for your boats over the years? Mike

I recently looked at a 1972 Hardin Force 50 to purchase. She has seen considerable blue water and appears to be a comfortable liveaboard. Some cosmetic work is needed, along with new sails. While I intend to have a complete survey done, I want to learn what I can about the vessel construction and/or design before jumping in. There doesn’t seem to be much info out there–can you help me? Thanks.

I believe your first cruising boat (Intermezzo) was a Columbia 50? Knowing this boat a little, what were the traits about it that you really liked, and really disliked? Thanks for your reply,

Mr. Dashew…I am trying to get a little insight into the vessel that I have purchased. I have no offshore experience at all at this time and have only owned my boat for two years. As I live in Sidney, BC I do a lot of weekend outings through the Gulf and San Juans, not at all comparable even to the St. of Georgia. My question is this. The boat I have chosen is a Spencer 35,a sister ship to “Whisper”, Hal Roth’s boat. (Hull 29) (Mine is 31) It still has the old roller boom. (That will change) Everybody tells me what a wonderful boat I have for serious, inexpensive offshore cruising. Being that the Spencer is a local production boat from the old days (Mfg. Richmond, BC 1966) I am wondering if the local folks are more prejudiced than accurate in their positive statements to me. In spite of Mr. Roths adventures, is my Spencer a good offshore vessel? I know it is not like your vessels but it is affordable for me and I find it very easy to handle in spite of no lines aft. (I have to go forward to change my mind as well as sails.) I realize this question sounds very weak, but I plan on South Pacific adventurers in the next 3 to 5 years and due to no present experience, I have no reference to measure from. Thank you Sir. Regards, Ron

Hello Steve, I have a decision to make now on my new rig.

I have a brand new carbon fibre spar. It is 56′ long, double spreaders with discontinuous rod standing rigging.

The shrouds terminate with stemballs in the spreader bars (i.e. no tangs in the spar except for the cap shrouds).

The shroud stemballs cannot be removed while the spreaders are in place, which means that if I had a shroud problem, it would be impossible to change while the mast is standing.

Navtec has a part which is a stemball with a marine eye on the other end. This means I could have forks on the ends of the shrouds, which are pinned to the stemball eyes, which are embedded in the spreader bars. This would allow me to change a broken shroud while under way.

My question is: Should I bother? With rod rigging, are there signs of fatigue, like with meat hooks etc. in wire? If I broke a shroud, say a D3 or V2 or D2, or something, would the spar already be broken and changing the shroud is now meaningless? Obviously if a V1 broke, the mast would snap instantly, so we don’t have to talk about that. More clearly stated: is there any circumstance that would prompt me to want to replace a rod shroud while away from a harbour and a mast crane?

The stemball eyes would likely add maybe 2 or three pounds to the rig, and add the complexity of a dozen extra bits and pieces.

I want to sail across an ocean (and back) some time in the next few years or so. – Ryan

Hi, our insurance requires us to replace all running rigging after 5 years (which is at the end of this year) whether it needs it or not. Probably not a bad idea. along the same lines, someone suggested all thru hulls be replaced after 5 years. Do you agree with the latter? Regards, Peter

Hello Everybody! I own a Hallberg Rassy 352 located in the Med, and I’d like to pose a question: Do you know a working solution to lower the main while sailing downwind? My sail has plastic tracks inside the mast. Fair Winds, Gennaro

What is the best way to rig the control lines on an ATN spinnaker sleeve?–Robert.

Hi Steve, Regarding heavy weather sailing, I would appreciate your input regarding my boat. I have a 20-meter aluminum cutter-rigged sloop. The staysail is on a self-tacking track and I have a fin keel with a small wing. How would you best heave to with this set up? So far I’ve been able to manage with just the staysail in bad conditions but think it’s time that I learn other options. Thanks, Alan "Evolution"

Dear Steve and Linda, My wife and I finally made the big jump and are sailing around the world. We’re now in Lisbon, Portugal. A friend of ours lent us your book, Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. It’s wonderful, and we look forward to borrowing it again. We read with great interest your comments about the Alpha 3000 as this is our primary autopilot. (We have no wind vane) So far we’ve had only minor problems which were turned into major problems when the unit was returned to the company for repairs. Mostly due to Barron and now Chris, who refuses to even give out his last name. The company’s mode of operation is beyond my comprehension. We’re wondering if you could give us any input as to what we can do to keep our autopilot working in the best possible fashion without returning it to the factory. Thanking you in advance. Our wishes to you and your family for a Happy Holiday season and your best New Years ever. Harold

I realize this must be the single most common question you hear, but I cannot find it on your FAQ page. What are your recommendations on rig type and boat size for a cruising couple? We currently have a Frers 41, but want to move aboard and go offshore indefinitely – so we are looking at other boats. When we cruise now – which is every available moment (we do not race), our boat is stuffed with all manner of gear, supplies, bikes, books etc. Our gear wish list is long, and provisioning for a long journey… Personally we love split rigs, and are very inclined towards a marconi rigged schooner we have seen. My concerns are handling a large boat (60′) with my wife, and of course maintenance costs. Any pointers you may be able to give us would be much appreciated. Thank you for all the information you have published. Alex & Daria Blackwell

(Regarding Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia)…An encyclopedia it certainly is–a wealth of information that must have taken a lifetime to collect. I enjoyed reading your book and I’m glad I made the purchase.

Criticism: 1. There are a few mistakes where you reflect imperial measurements and then the metric measurement in ( ). Assuming that the imperial measurement are correct, then the metric conversion is incorrect. I cannot remember the page numbers where the errors are. It’s insignificant really–perhaps a tiny slip of the pen? 2. You seem to have a big prejudice against multihulls and this is sad. All the text and pictures also show outdated multihulls designs and concepts. Regards, Wiets

Dear Dan,

Could you please explain the differences between a gennaker, screecher, code one and asymmetrical spinnaker? Is it possible to have a gennaker cut for reaching and another gennaker for running? What would be your recommended sail selection for a performance 55′ catamaran? Thank you, Chris

In your new weather book, do you cover storm tactics in a yawl? On a mizzen staysail where do you place the clue? We are thinking of getting a mizzen staysail for our Crealock 37. The mizzen mast is about 21′ tall, is this too small for a mizzen spinnaker or stay with the staysail? Thanks, Dave

Hi Steve – You were kind to advise me regarding the draft for my new boat last year. Now I am in the process of equipping the boat for a circumnavigation primarily in the tropics. My boat is a 57-foot sloop from X-yachts in Denmark with little windage, the weight is 20 tonnes. I am going to use the Bruce as main anchor and the suggested size for stormy conditions is 30kg, but as I remember from your book you suggest to move up in weight, which in this case will be 50kg. Can you help me to decide between 30 and 50 kg?

I am bringing a 100m stainless chain. Can you recommend an appropriate dimension? Kind regards, Mogens

Dear Steve, I have just read the glazing section for your FPB boat with much interest. Can you tell how the windows where attached to the aluminum structure? Many thanks, John H.

Steve, Hope all is well and everyone is healthy. Richard and Kati have been keeping me apprised to your progress on your latest. Best of luck with it! Do you have a launch date?

As I’m insulating my sailboat, I find that I need a flexible insulation in some areas. The semi-rigid just will not work well!

Richard said that you were using scuba wet suit material. Great idea! This would work well for me several locations against the hulls sharpest curves…behind the nav station, a few lockers, under vanity, etc. So, were can I purchase this material ??

Thank You and Good Luck, say hello to Linda. – Michael

Steve, Seeking your wisdom and guidance. I am looking at a 42′ boat built in Holland made out of steel or aluminum. I live on Long Island and keep the boat in a marina. What is your suggestion for longevity and ease of maintenance, steel or aluminum? I am not so concerned about the price differences, but want the boat to stay healthy and metal hulls are basically an unknown to me. Thanks kindly, James

I have a 50 ft cruising catamaran recently purchased from the owner builder. I note in your cruising encyclopedia that you mention that only cast hatches can be welded directly to the coaming. I was wondering if there was a way to weld lower priced extruded hatches to a 6061 deck? Look forward to your comments.

Hi Steve, I have an ozone generator made by Quantum but I have been reluctant to leave it on for long periods because I understood that ozone would cause deterioration of rubber goods. I see that you leave it on the boat during lay up. Is it on constantly? How do you use it ? Thanks Mike B. s/v Spurwing

What can you tell me about sailboat cushion fabrics? We are building a 50-foot sailboat, and would like to have the most up to date info. Thanks, Thomas

Hey, I really love your site. I’m heading out from Portland, Oregon through the Panama Canal to Europe. Do you know how I can locate cruisers who might have used charts? I have the Bellingham Chart resource but I want to help returning people “recycle” their recent charts… Any direction? Thanks, Jim

I was wondering whether you have any information on plastic bags that can be sealed for storing boat cushions. Look forward to hearing from you.

Could you please recommend medical courses for blue water cruisers going to remote areas, that take place preferably on the west coast of the US and on weekends before 4/1/01? I’m aware of some excellent 2-week courses, but just can’t fit those into our schedule at this point. Thanks, Doanne

Hello, First of all, thanks for publishing your knowledge.. It is appreciated. I’d like to know what your latest opinion is in regards to new yacht registration outside of the US. My wife and I are going to cruise the Caribbean before setting up shop in the BVI to charter on a multi-hull. Other then sales tax/use tax issues within a specific US state, do you know of any other advantages, considerations or pitfalls? Thank you for your time, Jay

Steve/Linda: We have been searching in vain through the net to find a new—as opposed to a collectible—taffrail log. Does anyone still produce these devices or have they gone the way of the buggy whip? Any advice on procuring one would be appreciated. TIM & MELISSE

STEVE, DO YOU SUCK FRESH WATER THROUGH YOUR SALT WATER ENGINE INTAKE WHEN YOU LEAVE IT FOR A MONTH OR SO, OR IS THAT TIME SPAN NOT REALLY A BIG DEAL? WE MAY HAVE TO LEAVE THE BOAT IN BERMUDA AND FLY BACK TO WORK FOR A FEW WEEKS. PHIL

I have an alum. yacht. Is there some kind of instrument that would tell me if electrolysis was present? In the book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, it made mention of silver-chloride by engelhard/systems but…I can’t seem to locate anything like that. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Dale Quigley

Our catamaran is being delivered to Ensenada just after Christmas. Can you point me to information regarding sailing north from Ensenada to San Francisco. Thanks, Steve

Steve, Do you know of a good display of Gulfstream temperature and current conditions available online (i.e. that shows eddies and current patterns)? Thanks.

I’m starting to practice weather forecasting with the 500mb and surface charts. The NWS site has lots of different charts with different forecasts such as 12,24 or 36hr forecasts. Which one of these would you recommend that I use to practice?

These are the charts I download: 15.00Z Surface Analysis Chart Part 1 10E-45W Northern Hemisphere Size: 38.4K–Updated: Fri Nov 26 03:23:37 1999 UTC 16.00Z Surface Analysis Chart Part 2 40W-95W Northern Hemisphere Size: 32.5K–Updated: Fri Nov 26 03:33:36 1999 UTC 28.00Z 500MB Surface Chart Analysis 45W-85W Northern Hemisphere Size: 26.8K–Updated: Thu Nov 25 23:23:35 1999 UTC.

I’m “superimposing” the 500mb on the surface analysis charts to forecast what the weather will be like for the next 24 hrs. Am I on the right track?? Regards, Susan

I replaced my fixed prop ( 3-blade 16 RH 10) with a 17 RH 10 Flex-O-Fold 2-blade folding prop. I have experienced much improved speed under sail and not bad performance in reverse. However, I am unable to get full cruising RPM in forward and because of this am not able to motor cruise at much more than 4.3 knots. My vessel is a Nautilus 37 with a 35 hp Yanmar diesel. Also I am experiencing vibration at 1900 RPM which I did not have with my fixed prop. Any suggestions? Ron

Dear sailor friends, I recently saw a lovely 36 foot Formosa Ketch I am dreaming to acquire and get sparkling again. The woodwork needs some care. The hull looks sound as far as I can see above water. But before I get the boat hauled out, do you know of any problems with this boat, that was apparently built in 1980 in Taiwan, with 1-inch-thick fiberglass. Do you know anything about this type of boat, since I found no information in all my books and very little on the web. Thank you, Helmut S

There is a 1985 Deerfoot 72 on the market, apparently built by Dencho Marine. This design is not listed in your “Milestones.” Is this one of your boats? Any info on quality or issues? Even though it is newer, it is priced considerably less than Wakaroa (it is clear from the pictures that the interior finishes are not nearly of the same quality). Thanks for any info you can provide. Mark

Hi Steve & Linda, Well we have made the first step!….I have resigned from my job and my wife has secured a two year leave of absence from her job (starting in July). Thanks in large part to you guys who have inspired us over the years we shall take our two kids 9 & 11 on a two year adventure. I am using the next 6 months to prepare the house for rent, sell my current boat (33′ too small) and buy THE BOAT. I have your book…it is my bedside companion…and have followed your website and FAQs. I’m going for waterline if I can find one in my budget–approx. $150K…we have been looking at the Hylas 44 and 47…your comments on this boat would be appreciated. We intend to spend 6 mos. in the Bahamas (our backyard) then on to the Caribbean. Many thanks!

Hi Steve, Good articles on leaks…

I’ve never had mast collar leaks…but what I do have is rain water getting into the mast, I guess through the halyard exits etc., which accumulates in the bilge…any suggestions as to how to cure that kind of leak?? Cheers, Alan

Hi Steve, In the FAQ section under Rigs and Rigging you mention you use 3 to 3 1/4″ sliders in your mainsail system. Do you have these sliders in this length specially manufactured for you, and if so, who does it and what material is used? Or are they ‘off the shelf’? And lastly, do they have any metal inserts within the plastic for reinforcement? (I’ve searched extensively but apparently not well enough!) Thanks Rich

Dear Steve and Linda: Cate and I were arguing last night about sailing w/o a main. She thinks that it can damage the rig. My not-so-engineering mind didn’t think so provided there was plenty of backstay support. Saw a few illustrations in Surviving the Storm where boats were sailing w/o a main. What do you think?

Hi Steve: We have a Spencer 44 centre cockpit, which is a full-keel relatively heavy displacement cutter rigged cruiser. We plan to head offshore next spring, and are heavy into the process of preparing and upgrading Our fully-battened main was in for repairs recently, and while the local sailmaker who worked on it felt it would last us for another couple of years, he also said it was probably the next sail we should replace. This got us to thinking that maybe we should bite the bullet and replace it now, rather than at some future and possibly less convenient time. In discussions on possible replacements, we were offered the option of going with a “cruising laminate” from Bainbridge (CL-90P), which we were told would improve sail shape and performance over a wide range of sail conditions…so far, so good. My question concerns any feedback you have, either directly or indirectly, concerning the longevity, UV resistance, chafe resistance, and general durability of laminate sails when used for long-range cruising in the tropics. I know cruisers in general are a relatively conservative bunch, and I guess I fall into the same category–ie, I don’t want to be on the “bleeding edge”. Nevertheless, I would like to take advantage of new technologies, especially if they translate into better boat speed, less heel, and faster passages. Any thoughts you could pass along would be appreciated. Thanks Mark

Dear Mr. and Mrs. Dashew: Bought the Encyclopedia and read it cover to cover. It is truly the best boat book around, or, more accurately, an entire library. I've got a Pearson 424, one of the ones sold as a sloop, really a ketch w/o a mizzen. It also has a Hood Stoway main with no roach, so we are a bit short on sailpower esp. to windward. Recently I've seen references to a vertical batten main built in England (www.maxiroach.com) that seems to be getting good reviews in boat tests on British boats. The roach they show looks modest by your standards, about that of a standard full-batten mail. My question is this: If these folks have in fact solved the chafe and jamming problems of putting battens on a roller-furling main. Do you think it would be possible to put a really big roach on this type of sail? With my mast in the ketch mast position, and the boat designed for the sail area of a mizzen, I've got plenty of clearance at the backstay. Roller-furling main has to be flat anyway. I'm having a little trouble figuring out if the vertical full battens would support the roach area any differently than horizontal battens do. Local sailmakers here in Annapolis don't really want to talk about this. Thanks for your thoughts on this–Quent

Dear Dashews, Got your book. great reading. But it lacks one thing: a glossary. I suspect some terms are US conventions and not European (e.g. dink). What is meant by draft (in respect of sails) for example. Best Wishes, Malcolm S

Do you still use the WH Autopilots referred to in your first edition? Where can I find them? Website? Regards, Hal

We are looking at buying a 1983 Alden with two centerboards. I’m familiar with one board but not two. The boat draws 5′ 4" BU and 11′ 8" BD. What is your advice on this arrangement. Thanks, Rod and Lucinda

Hi–I read about the importance of knowing your boat’s LPS in the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, and I was wondering where and how I can review the LPs for different models of boats so I can use that information to help me buy the right boat for me. Is there a site online that lists the LPs for different models of yachts? Thanks, Erin

I’m in the process of purchasing a 33′ Cheoy Lee cutter-rigged clipper ketch. I’m an intermediate recreational sailer searching for information regarding the types of sails recommended for cutter-rigged ketches—-for instance, why might one fly a single 145% Genoa rather than the Yankee/Staysail combination?—-trimming techniques, more advanced configurations, such as a "mizzen spinnaker", performance configuration recommendations. My impression from internet and library searches is this type of information concentrates on racing sloops. We sailors with little or no desire to race seem to be left out in the cold, despite the fact that we still desire to get from point-to-point as efficiently as possible.

No doubt you’re as busy as the rest of us, but any information or pointers you might be able to shoot my way would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, Brian L