Steve, I kept your 2 big books (Cruising Encyclopedia and Weather book) on the shelf, frankly afraid of them: they are so big, they intimidated meÉ So I kept reading smaller, easier to finish books for the past 3 years. Finally I gathered the courage to open your cruising encyclopedia and now I canÕt put it down: I donÕt even play spades on the computer anymore.

The fact is that I closed today on my first "big boat", is a 1989 Hylas 44, called Delta Tango, soon to be named "Alegria". I stopped working (or maybe my companyÕs business decided to slow down to the point that it stopped me) and plan to prepare to sail with her (my wife and Alegria) for the rest. Will shake down to Bermuda and BVI, afterwards going anywhere but including Alaska, Hawaii, Palmyra, Tonga, Tahiti, Western Europe, etc. I am 54, have some time to cruise, hopefully. Your book provides me with a lot of info that I intend to use to equip, improve and secure her. Your first advice in the book (donÕt start buying things and changing them around until you sailed for a while) is great advice. But hard to follow by someone like me who is always trying to improve things (and people, just ask my wife and kids!).

I called Hood and they prepared an estimate on a Vektron Main, reacher, stay sail and storm main. Initially I thought on getting the main (full batten, 5 of them), to go over the back stay, then I chicken out, now I am back on the first idea, making it elliptical, overlapping the back stay by some 8 inches. If it chafes, I guess I can cut it down to regular size. This is not a particulary fast boat, so I need all the sail I can get. I talked to the riggers at Nance & Ubderwood to build the baby stay and runners. Thank you for any advice you can give me. Regards, Pablo

Dear sirs: I’m interested in purchasing a Sundeer 60 and have seen this AeroRig system advertised in one model. Can I have some comments as to the efficiency of this seemingly very simple rig on offshore conditions? Heavy conditions? Your help will be greatly appreciated.–H.J.Argeles, MD

Steve I’m getting a new Beneteau Oceanis 473 early next year. I’m having a Dyneema inner forestay fitted with a tensioner for a storm jib. My questions are: 1) How big should it be? The Main is 43 sq m, The Genoa is 60 sq m, (J=5.51m, I= 16.40m, P=14.45m, e=5.21m). Is there a basic rule to follow? 2) I’ve had a suggestion that I should get a reefable working jib that I could use in intermediate (5-6?) conditions providing a better shape than a rolled Genoa, which would reef down to a storm jib size for heavier conditions. Is this a viable/sensible suggestion? Thanks Nigel

Dear Linda & Steve, Thanks for your really interesting Weather Handbook, which we began reading. It will certainly take some time…Together with our local sailmaker we are constructing an extra-roached mainsail, which will be ready in spring (this is not California). However, he did not know where to get UHMW fabric to protect this sail from chafe. Can you give us some help, maybe another name for that or a company which sells this stuff in the old world? Many thanks in advance.

Dear SetSail, Can you recommend a good "cruise and learn" course that my husband and I could take with our two children, ages 12 and 8, this summer? We live in Massachusetts, but were thinking of exploring a new area like the Pacific NW. However, we are open to any area. Thank you. Sincerely, Andrea

Most catalogs show drogue requirements are based on size/length of the boat. We have an 8,000 lb., 36-foot catamaran. Wouldn’t the weight be more of a factor than the length in determining the proper size? -Roger

Steve, Thank you for responding so fast to my e-mail. I have many questions which seem to be answered several different ways by as many people. It is always a pleasure to have some one like yourself to give input. I still am interested in a boat, I thought a motorsailer since I will be in Alaska most the time. But several people have been talking against them if one was ever to truly sail in the open ocean, small on deck structures etc is preferred as to a pilot house. Although I have found the open ocean, hundred miles off shore to be calmer in the long run than the inshore tides etc… (I have skipped tugs across the gulf of Alaska several times). I anxiously await your response. Cheers, Spike

I am considering our next major cruise from NZ/Oz up through the Red Sea, and our charging/motoring/fuel strategy. I have calculated that we get about 1 mile/liter at our normal cruising speed, possibly a bit more. This gives us about 1200 miles with current fuel capacity. Across the Pacific we pretty much motored all the way to Galapagos–no wind. Sailed all the way to Marquee’s, but then motored all the way to Tahiti, and got low on fuel and had to reload from a ship in the Tuamotus, which was very messy and expensive. So I am investigating how to get some more capacity. Ideas:

Glass a tank in on the port side of the lazarette. The area is hard to get at anyway so won’t be too much of a loss.

Glass a tank in on the stbd side behind the current tank in that ‘dead’ area below the compass/steering box.

I reckon, without actually measuring the boat as we are currently skiing in South Island (life’s tough, eh), I guess I could add about another 300+ miles. Which would have life a lot easier in the Tuomotus, for example.

I KNOW ITS MORE WEIGHT!!!! but do you have any other ideas?

I am also considering swapping my homebuilt DC generator for the Balmar, with watermaker add-on. Is this what you have? How does it work out? The literature says it will set its own speed/charge rate, how does that work out?

Also our batteries are getting real bad and I’ll probably change them, did you go for the lead acid Tudors as we have, or the more sophisticated dry cell ‘I can’t remember what they are but not gel type or lead/acid’ new types.

Any advice gratefully received–and probably written about, we start a ‘Masterclass’ series for YW in October!

Hope cruising is going well–Regards, Brian

I am trying to find out how to estimate the center of effort (CE) of a high roach main. With a triangular sail the roach is usually neglected when measuring the CE, but I am not sure this is the way to go with a high roach main, where the luff may take up 30% of sail area. Thank you very much for your help, Michiel

1. Piracy during our trip. As I mentioned we will have 2 small children and I'm not sure what to expect or what the best plan is to avoid problems.

2. Harley. How do we best prepare for bringing a pet into foreign countries?

3. Your opinion on cruising rallies to hook up with throughout our voyage? That's it for now. Cheers, Tom

Hi Steve, I took your advice and got the next size bigger Bruce for my 46 foot, 28 ton displacement schooner. The new 110 lb anchor is quite a conversation piece sitting in the shop while we try to figure out how to mount it. We don’t think a standard bow roller will work because of the 90 deg turn needed to bring the shackle and anchor up onto the roller. It’s difficult enough with the current 60lb CQR. We’re thinking that a pivoting bow roller may work but I’ve not found any rated for that kind of weight. Can you recommend a roller or have any suggestions? Thanks, Carl

Dear Steve, From your books I learned you use schedule 70 chain. Have you had any problems with this chain losing its galvanization? Thanks! John

Good day, I am enjoy your site and also using as a reference source as I am presently having a 42′ aluminum cutter built.

I was wondering if you have and could post a detail/close-up look at your stanchion/lifeline setup. There are several pictures on your site which show an overview and it looks like you used SS pipe going into aluminum pipe stanchion bases welded to the deck. One picture looks like you used SS pipe for some of the lifelines. I would appreciate any details you can provide.

Thank you for considering this request. Cheers, John

Hello, Thanks for both the Offshore and Seamanship: both were great reads. The website is always good for a bit of day dreaming as well as loads of info. Keep up the good stuff!

I’m currently looking into purchasing a smaller (27ft) Dutch classic to enhance sailing, tech and nav skills on coastal North Sea before following the big step dream.

I’ve located a Trintel 1a – in steel and a Trintella 1a in GRP, essentially the same design, both from around 1971. I’d go for steel for security; but the problem is that the steel version is about twice as heavy, still, I’m a bit hesitant about "old plastic"; I’ve read about osmosis, but have no idea what it looks like. Could you give me any ideas on what to look for?

Thanks very much, Eltjo

I’m trying to put zincs on the outside of the alum. hull. No one seems to know how to do it. I can only go by what little was in your book, do they need to be tied together with wire on the inside from the bolts, and should the zincs be against the alum. Hull or can I put them on after the 3 coats of 2000e, or not have them on at all. I would appreciate any help. Thanks, Dale

I really like the push knobs you use on your galley cabinetry, but cannot seem to find them locally. Could you let me know who your supplier is? Much appreciated, Wendy

Greetings. Does your library of encyclopedic knowledge have any definitive source(s) for optimum, spatial ergonomics for the interiors of vessels? For instance, passageways 18″ – 22″ wide? Head & shower stall sizes…what’s adequate (for basic duties and toweling off) yet still economic in size? In a “U” shaped galley is 36″ between counters OK? Seating around a dinette…how much room should be allowed for each “sitter” and comfortable “elbow room”? I trust you get my drift as the list of examples could go on forever. I’ve seen your comments on headroom but very little on provisions for comfort, ease and safety whilst moving about and living on a vessel in a seaway. Hopefully you’ve covered this subject before, but if not, it might make a good topic for consideration.

I should add that I fully appreciate the functioning of a proper boat…not a floating condominium or “gin palace”!…And know the danger factor of being thrown about in overly generous living and/or poorly designed interior spaces. Further, I acknowledge that this topic is subject to personal preferences but believe there is, or should be a baseline to start with. Thank you for any information you can provide. Cheers, Richard

Steve: Hi, We are one of those sailors who bought one of these machines and found out the not immediately apparent serious limitation of these machines: There is high volume of water consumption not for washing but to accomplish the condensation: there is a constant stream of cold water is piped to cool the drum.

And there is another big problem: the temperature of the cooling water. In the tropics the 85+F water temp may not accomplish the condensation at all?! We decided to forgo the installation all together and go to manual machines with clothes lines…John

Regarding turnbuckles, Mike wants a stainless body (open or closed) over a bronze threaded bolt. Alan Blunt says that Navtec is the only company that offers this but it is unnecessarily expensive (Alan seems to be recommending chrome plated bronze body turnbuckles). Which turnbuckles do you recommend for both my standing and running rigging?

I’ve enjoyed your books & website…. keep up the good work! Maybe you could give me some guidance or point me in the right direction. I’m trying to identify marinas which might cater to seasonal liveaboards. My thinking is to keep a boat in the Caribbean, Central America or other interesting/accessible parts of the world and, being from the Chicago area, use the boat as a primary residence and cruising vehicle during the winter. An incomplete list of desirable marina “requirements” might include: good security, sense of community (marina somewhat populated by other liveaboards), good air transport to/from US, reasonable weather protection, repair/haul/storage facilities. These are just some of the thoughts/criteria which come to mind but I’m at a loss for how to go about identifying the best marina options I might want to more closely investigate. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Dear sailing friends, Steve and Linda, My family lived and cruised aboard the S/V White Cloud for many years. We were involved in a marine business and basically the most enjoyable years we can remember.

My son is completing the rebuilding of a West Sail 32 here in Fairbanks and plans to rejoin the sailing life in a couple more years. My daughter also is trying to rejoin however she has home schooled her 6 children in the Bush of Alaska and now two of the 6 are in a high school and honor students.

This request is for her use: Which one of your books will specifically address family concerns that a mother and father of 6 share, i.e., inoculations requirements, money exchanges, children’s education, activities and in general, home and family activities. Obviously, from her present experience years of bush living and successful home schooling, she already has most of the skills. She desires the confidence ( and her husband) from people That we from the sailing/cruising community, recognize as being successful.

So you have a rather long winded thing in way of background. Her (Cara) 36th birthday is fast approaching and hopefully you may have a word or two as a suggestion for me to purchase.

Sincerely with thanks, Paul C. (former Skipper S/V White Cloud from Juneau)

PS: I’m redoing an old Tartan 27T to trailer to the warmer climites for winters in retirement

Are you pleased with the frigoboat keel cooler installation on Wind Horse? If so, about what depth and width and length aluminum box did you put on the inside of the hull for a keel cooler and did you use fresh water or a glycol mixture? (I realize the box only needs 4 sides and flanged top edges to fasten the fiberglass). Fair winds, David

I noticed in your video, BEOWULF: The Epic Continues that she has a fuel flow meter. I have been interested in installing a fuel flow meter on my boat (80 HP Perkins diesel) but have been discouraged because all small capacity fuel flow meters are designed for gas engines and do not have to deal with return line fuel flow. What model / brand of fuel flow meter do you use on BEOWULF and how do you have it plumbed to address the fuel flow in the return line. Thank you very much for your assistance. Downing

Hi, my name is Naroa, I don’t know much about boats. I’m doing an investigation on the length of time a 115Hp motor should be going. We have a fleet of boats that coast guard a manmade lake that supplies water to the Panama Canal. We have 3 shifts a day which means that the boats have their motor running for 8 hours. I need to know what you consider the life expectancy of these boats to be? PS Your answer is VERY IMPORTANT.

Hi Steve, Once again here I am at your information trough. Well, INTERLUDE is on the dry getting bottom job so I am going to address the long-overdue absence of some form of lightning protection. Here on the Mississippi Gulf coast, lightning damage is a very real threat, as my dock neighbor got a firsthand appreciation of the awesome damage a strike can inflict–all electronics shot, and a total of 72 exit points in the hull, 4 of which where about 1/4″ in diameter–2 below the waterline. Flooding was kept in check because the 2 major exit points occurred in integrated water tanks

INTERLUDE, a Hans Christian, Christina 40, has a deck stepped rig with all metal components except chainplates bonded together with #8 cable. Why they omitted the chain plates is beyond me, but I intend to address that in this project.

What I am proposing to do is construct a submersed ground plate, 5″ by 72″ of 3/16 or 1/4″ copper, connected thru the hull with silicon bronze 1/4″ or 5/16″ carriage bolt connectors and marine sealant every 8″ or so (overkill?). This satisfies the ISO ground plate standard of 2.5 sq. feet. The reasoning behind the plate dimension is that studies have shown that the edge surface of the conductor plays a very important part in strike dissipation. So, in an attempt to improve on the ISO standard, I have increased the exposed linear edge rather than just going with a square plate. To this plate via the carriage bolts, I will connect #4 cable to the compression post and #6 to the chain plates.

Now comes the problem of the mast to compression post connector. The aluminum mast sits on a stainless deck base which is through-bolted to the bronze compression post. Intuition tells me not to rely on this mechanical connection but weld a lug to the mast and again connect one of the stainless through-bolts to the mast with #4 cable which should insure a good low-resistance electrical path. At the masthead will be a rod sticking 6″ above the VHF antenna and for good measure, one of those bottle-brush dissipaters. OK, now I have that immersed chunk of copper. Will I be inviting cathodic problems if I include these components in the bonding system or should I isolate the lightning protection components (mast, stays, chainplates, compression post and ground plate) from the bonding system and let them reach their own electrical potential? What do you think of the solution? Thanks, so much. All the best to you, Linda and the family, Kevin, Bay St. Louis, MS.

Hi–I took your advice (article on The New Way to Get Weather Faxes) and got weather faxes from Marine Prediction Center. When I opened them they were scrambled letters and numbers only. Is the TIF format something I need to have a program for in order to decode and read? Thanks, Frank

Steve, This may seem like a dumb question, but….How does the height above the water affect the anemometer readings? The reason I ask this is that my mast is 56ft off the water and it seems that the wind speed readings I get are consistently higher than mates of mine that have shorter (i.e. 35ft) masts. I have B&G gear so it should be accurate….is there a formula that we can apply to get surface wind speed, knowing the height of our instruments ? Thanks Cheers Alan

I bought the Mariner’s Weather Handbook and find it helpful. I have a question, though. On page 123, you attempt to show divergence/convergence on a drawing (bottom of page). I have read it 10 times and don’t understand what you are trying to tell me. It is early in your discussion of this subject and so I do not want to move on without an understanding. Can you elaborate on what that drawing is showing me? Thank you, George

What kind of prop do you use on BEOWULF and is it a feathering prop or folding? I know that you do motor sail and I wonder how you came to the size and pitch that you needed for the boat. I also liked the Bermuda story about the weather, you made a very good move by moving to a new location, it could have been a bad situation had you not moved. Good Sailing, Gary H

Hi, I am deciding between a Newporter 41 & an Islander Freeport 41. My boyfriend & I plan to cruise around the Caribbean for a fairly extended period & both of us have heard mixed reviews about the sailing capabilities of each (spanning…sails pretty good, handles like a dog, porpoises through the water, handles well for a cruising boat). We’re not interested in a high performance racing boat, but we will want to be able to head up into the wind in rough weather. I’ve found basically no info on the Newporter 41, & not too much on the other. Can you help? – Barb

Hi–I’m planning to buy a boat for cruising round the world in the next year and have just ordered your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. I’m interested in prices for your range of yachts–probably looking at 60–65 ft but BEOWULF does look interesting. I would be grateful if you can send me at least budgetary figures for the base boat with basic fit-out (no instruments) and working sails. Many thanks Mark

I am inquiring about any good places to go for Santana 37 info. I have talked with Schock and they have been very helpful. I have also talked with Peter Crane of Peter Crane Yachts. Not much on the Internet about this boat.

I have a chance to buy Destiny II, Hull Number 2 of the Santana series, and wonder if it is a great boat or just a 30-year-old boat. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Eric

Dear Steve, We are building a 46ft cat for live-aboard offshore cruising and have been studying and contemplating your writings with relish…We are ready for rig quotes and have been considering single line reefing – mostly to reduce the number of lines in the cockpit. Our last cat had simple slab reefing with luff & leach lines returning to the cockpit, and it worked very well.

We are concerned about adding complications and are unsure how to do it so, & that if anything goes wrong inside the boom we can fix it easily. Most people we have asked have thought it was OK in smaller boats, but weren’t confident to recommend it for as powerful a rig as ours.

Our cat is ‘a mainsail boat’ with 75sqm main with big roach like Beowulf, and self-tacking jib.

I am wondering if you could tell us how you set up single-line reefing in Beowulf and whether you have any more information or impressions that would help us.

Best wishes with your new project. – Sandy S

We are recent owners of a ’67 boat and sometimes find the hoisting/handling of the main to be cumbersome if not downright difficult. What modifications/solutions can you recommend? What of main furling system? Thank you. Best regards, Phil

I just found your site and was quite intrigued by the variety of information available!…I was particularly happy about the comment on mainsails, in which the mast sits in a sleeve about 2′. The idea is that this should reduce wind shadow around the mast, particularly important when the mast is fairly “fat” as in a cat-ketch.

I am considering building a 30′ wood strip-epoxy boat, and thought of 2 rigs using free-standing rotating masts, both cat-ketch with sleeved sails, one option being a big-roach fully-battened (possible conflict with the sleeves…) and the other gaffs (!), which I think merit consideration for shape control.

For the gaffs, I thought of using struts attached to the mast, parallel to the boom, which would keep the gaffs in alignment with the booms, reducing sail twist.

I worry about upwind performance on a cat-ketch: Any views on this? Would the mainsail interfere very much with the mizzen? Would a jib work well in this arrangement?

I look forward to looking through your site again! Thank you! Tom Kottmeier

Our boat is a traditional sloop, with a fin keel and skeg-hung rudder. (1981 Mariner center cockpit 39′–the keel sits a little more forward than you normally see, but she seems to sail fine in normal conditions.)

We had assumed we would try to squeeze the budget to find cash to install a removeable inner forestay and running backstays for the sole purpose of flying a hank-on storm jib there (with our planned trysail). However, our sailmaker recommends modifying a storm jib into a sail like ATN’s Gale Sail, to set OVER the roller-furling headsail. While I had read that they weren’t great re: center of effort being so far forward, he says it will not be an issue. He said he’d only advise the inner stay & backstays as support for the mast…and that we have a pretty beefy spar as it is so perhaps not necessary. We intend to sail Maine Bermuda Caribbean , then possibly to Europe at some point. We are a crew of 2 parents and a young child. We are on an EXTREMELY tight budget (i.e. most of our gear is being purchased second-hand) so we do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that’s not really necessary.

On the other hand we want to be safe…. Do you have any thoughts or advice on this subject?

I just picked up a copy of your new edition 2 days ago and haven’t put it down. Myself and several others with boats in the 40-foot range meet regularly to discuss our preparations for eventual bluewater cruising. Departures start next year and stagger out for the next 5 years. I’ll be promoting Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia as a purchase (investment) everyone must make. Here is my first question: On page 660 you show a picture of a headboard carrier with an integral sheave. (I now have 2-to-1 using a block on the headboard.)

Where do I purchase the type of carrier shown in your photo??

Our steering pump is mounted at wheel level in the pedestal, you know that gives very poor lock to lock. I noticed that pg 563 in the 1st Encyclopedia shows a pump mounted below the pedestal, with a chain drive to turn it. How do you fill a pump in that position? Can you use it sealed with a reservoir at a lower level? Do you have any better suggestions for solving this problem? – Mike B.

I enjoyed your book Surviving the Storm very much – essential reading – but wonder about how much is possible at night when visibility is poor. Perhaps the sea anchor is needed here, especially if shorthanded. A chapter on methods for retrieving a man overboard would be useful.

Yours Sincerely, Bruce C.

Hi Steve. With a 36 foot waterline, wouldn’t the boat (at least theoretically) have a hull design speed of about 8 knots? [sqrt 36 = 6 x 1.34 = 8.02] Do you find that such boats won’t sail at the design speed? Sidney

Hello Dashews, We love the books and are busy trying to absorb all the info as we plan toward and dream of our own cast off day in 36 months. We have been educating ourselves on design as we continue to search for the right boat for our needs. I agree with your philosophy on waterline and the value of older CCA boats. I also like aluminum or steel (though right now steel seems like a better buy in general).

Here’s the issue–I am 6’5″ tall, my wife is 6’0″ and our two sons 4 and 2 1/2 are destined to be at least that big. That’s a lot of height on a boat. Can you give us some direction on makes of the older boats that would be more inclined to accommodate our height? I know that it is an issue of free board as much as anything but has interior volume and subsequently headroom increased with the newer boats or can we find a pool of appropriate boats built of steel or alum. In the 60s–80s that will save us aching heads? Thanks, Dave

I cruise in Florida and the Bahamas. I am quite worried about mildew problems. Losing a sail to mildew (I would replace it if the stains wouldn’t come out) after a year would be totally unacceptable to me, no matter what the performance compromise I needed to make. Should I stick to Dacron and stay away from all laminated products? Norman Freedman Sabre 452

How do you get insurance to sail as a couple on BEOWULF? I have friends with a Tayana 52 in Hawaii, who are now kind of stranded because their Lloyds policy requires four crew and the other couple (the guy actually) wimped while they were all headed for NZ. Or do you sail bare (which is what I am doing right now as a singlehander)? -Lesley

Aloha from Hanalei Bay, Kauai. I am in the process of making a hurricane plan for AVALON, one of your beautiful, well thought out and seaworthy Sundeer 60s. She is now happily living in Nawiliwili, Kauai.

I think that in the event of a hurricane I will anchor her in the harbor rather than leave her at the dock. I am considering a 50 lb Danforth style anchor on about 20 feet of chain shackled to the 120 lb Bruce on the 5/16 schedule 70 300 ft anchor cable. I also plan to put a 30 lb kellet on the chain rode. Thoughts? Aloha, Scott

what is your view on using big swivel to connect the anchor to the chain? I was reading Earl Heinz’ book on anchoring and it seems important to put them on the right way around – Phil

Hi Steve, I am looking to buy a plan of a sailboat with between 38 & 40 feet with small draft (1.20 to 1.40 m). I know Hartley boats but I would like to contact other designers that have plans to be made in Ferrocement. Do you know any? Best Regards, Eduardo

I just ordered a J-BOAT J 109, and would appreciate your opinion about the possibility to improve the security in terms of buoyancy if…I learnt that inflatable buoyancy bags are not currently available; to my knowledge the only builder Yachtsaver is not still on the market. Another solution for this boat would be to transform the door between the forecabin and the saloon into a water pressure resistant door, such as in boats like the Maramu by Amel. This solution is not perfect, but, since the main risk is a frontal collision, it may be a significant point. In my opinion, at sea, a door must be open or closed, and the forecabin is not usable in practice. So, at sea, this door can be closed. How to get something efficient, light, and safe? I wonder if a device such as a timbered safety door, as those for theft protection would be the solution. I am very interested in your analysis and I would be grateful if you could help me. Yours sincerely, Alain P

My wife and I have read the Cruising Encyclopedia. It’s a fantastic guideline for sailors. All kinds of tips and safety issues we put on our 37ft sailboat. After reading the book we had only one wish. Making our own cruise in the year 2004 with our two daughters in a Sundeer yacht.

Buying a new or secondhand model is not possible. But we wonder if it’s possible to buy a hull of a Sundeer 56 and finish the interior of the boat in three or four years ourselves, with the Cruising Encyclopedia as a guideline. Some questions were raised when we thought about this idea. I hope you can find the time to answer the following questions. I thank you in advance.

1) Do you sell drawings of the Sundeer 56 so we can have the hull made in Holland? If so what are the costs. 2) Are there already Sundeer yachts built in Europe? If so who can I contact for information. 3) The original Sundeers are made of aluminum. I want to make the boat from steel. Is that possible? -Peter

I have an alum. yacht. It’s been sitting on blocks for 6 months so I can work on it. I noticed a month ago a small hole the size of a pin head appeared. Now I have 14 of them, all in the area of the heads. Any ideas why? How can I stop it, and fix it? Any advice would be appreciated.–Dale Quigley

Steve, What system do you use for e-mail and Internet access at sea? What connection speeds do you get? Is it good enough to get the NOGAPS Java movies within a reasonable time frame? What are the options?–Alan

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers, solenoids etc. I can’t find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me?

Hi Linda and Steve: I am enjoying your articles about maintaining Beowulf, and was interested in the piece on your washing machine.

My wife is happy enough to wash by hand, but would like a spin dryer or similar.

Can you offer any advice? – Thanks, Chris

Where would one go to find a consumers report on sailing vessels? Carl

Hello Next year I am sailing to Cape Horn on a Bristol Pilot Cutter. I am currently reading the second edition of your brilliant book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia–it is providing me with so much information and inspiration. Thank you. However I would love to get hold of the first edition of this excellent book–do you have any for sale or any idea how I could do this? I would really appreciate your advice on this. Thanks again for writing the book. love Emma M

We are considering starting our cruising lifestyle with a 16 year old female who has 2 years of high school left. Our plan was to retire to a cruising lifestyle after she completed high school and enters college. Due to a possible economic change we may want to start earlier.

Does anyone out there know if you can successfully educate a high schooler during the last 2 years and obtain a high school diploma? If you can, is it very difficult and what about social issues?

Any information would be greatly appreciated for this couple who is anxious to get out there. Thank you for your help. Avarie

Reading your website on your new power boat and went through the refrigeration section. I had long ago figured a powerboat could be made quiet and the cost of running was less than sail. Your thoughts on hull design are spot on as far as I can reason and follow my thoughts for a long-legged sea cruising boat. BUT – on to my question – where can I get power requirements for the Danfoss Compressors?

…with prefilters on your fuel system, how often do you then change the 2ndary screw-on fuel filter… we’ve been doing it every other oil change (every 200hrs) phil

Hi Steve: Batteries and their maintenance are always an issue on our boat (Grand banks 46 Trawler), so I was very interested in that equalization process you wrote about lately. My simple question is: How do I get this done? I have one of these new IUoU Chargers that does everything automatic–so how can I charge my batteries up to the 15 V you mention when the charger stops charging at 14 something volts and then just delivers a trickle of current to even out the self-discharge of the battery? We have 2 engine batteries 12V/200Ah and one service battery bank of 6 x 2V/650Ah Christian M. from Switzerland

I am trying to decide on an LCD radar. I have looked at the JRC1500, the Furuno 1622 and the Raytheon SL72. What do you think is the best LCD radar choice on the market for the dollar? Thanks-Rick

I am trying to find a source to get some pricing and technical info on the Gale Rider drogue. Can you help? Thanks. 🙂 Tom

STEVE: HOW MANY ROLLS OF THERMAL FAX PAPER SHOULD I HAVE ON BOARD FOR A 6 MONTH CRUISE……HAVING THE FURUNO 207 FITTED THIS WEEK.–PHIL

Hello Dashews- Got your letter about the weather book. I have a question: Can I interpret the meteorology around me with the help from this magic book of yours, WITHOUT assist from electronics like weather faxes and other fancy modernities? Is it enough with your book, thermometer (showing Celsius of course), a barometer and some bottles of nice wine? Regards from Sweden, Sigge

I have several books on celestial navigation and various references such as H.O. 229, 214, etc. Haven’t yet found out which is the most practical reference for an average yacht in open ocean. I have a GPS, of course, and wondered how frequently cruisers are using their sextants and if so, in what way and how often? It used to be a line of sight in the morning, a noon sight, and evening star sights. I suppose it’s now just a daily noon sight, if that.

Steve… I have your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and I have almost finished building this 35′ steel sail boat. I’m having a little trouble sizing the prop…Boat is 9.5 tons…engine is Farymann 32 HP…Prop is 16×13, 3 blade… Max. RPM under no load conditions is 2400. Max. RPM in forward is 2100 at max hull speed of 7.5 kn…reduction of transmission is 2:1. Should the max. R’sPM under load be closer to 2400?… Should top speed be reached before 2100?… I hope you can help with this … Thanks–Basil

Hi Steve, I’m reading Offshore Cruising Enc. at the moment, which is excellent. We are a couple in the mid 30’s and plan to set sail along the Tradewinds on a Columbia 43 (MK I – 1970) we have seen and plan to buy. As you started in a Columbia 50, we would appreciate your feelings about Columbia 43’s for Tradewind sailing (and maybe more in future). We are not too happy with the deep draft and the unprotected rudder, however, she seems safe, comfortable, with lots of room and most importantly, she would be in line with our budget for that size of waterline! Any thoughts? Thanks a lot !!! Stephan

Hi Steve, I have been researching the used boat market for monhulls in Florida and am looking for a 40-45 foot monohull. I have a budget of 70,000 for a used boat and then know that it may take another 30000-40000 to complete the process to have all that I would want to be safe and comfortable to take off for 5 years.

I wanted to get your advice on some hulls that I have found. First is the cost effective Morgan 41-415 and 416 years 1976 and 1978. A lot of boat for the money. But I know it is slow and the quality may not be desirable. Second is a 1977 Halberg Rassey 41. A blue water boat, a center cockpit. I feel it is solid and quality built. Has all the room we need. Third is a 1974 Soverel 48. A long water line fast boat with a hull and keel design similar to your yachts.

All the boats I look at that are aft cockpit in this size have small master cabins. The center cockpits have big master cabins. A big cabin is important to us. I know you don't like center cockpits. If I could get some advise on the above boats or if you could recommend some yachts I should be hunting for with aft cockpits that you would buy if you had my budget and size requirement. This would be most helpful to start my process right. I am trying to follow all your advise but must start with an older used yacht. Thank you so much. Good luck. Corey

I have a Beneteau Oceanus 381, and would like to speak to anyone else who has a 381 or similar. As a production boat, I think she can do a circumnavigation. She meets D.T.I. standards for blue water cruising, but I would love to hear other people’s opinions as to the viability of such a venture. Thanks for any advice. Yours, Martin

Dear Steve, Thank you for taking the time to read our email. We are selling our home to buy a yacht to cruise the oceans to enjoy our time together. I’m a marine mechanic specializing in power boat refits. I have limited sailing experience and Karen has even less.

We are currently shopping for a yacht with the intentions of learning on the boat we will be cruising on. We have your books and recently purchased a video you appear in (Heavy Weather Sailing), we found it all very exciting and informative. We are planning on spending the next year or three learning and doing all the necessary courses to become competent offshore sailors.
The yachts we are looking at are mainly masthead rigs but we have come across a fractional (Farr 1104) which shows a lot of potential as a cruiser/live-on.

Although you suggest water length to be main consideration, this is the largest within our price range. I am aware of the sailing differences between fractional and masthead after reading your books, but I have no experience sailing on fractional rigs and am not sure of the difference of rig strength.

The type of yachts we are looking at are:

Duncanson 35′ Masthead
Northshore 33′ Masthead
Farr 36′ Fractional

Just once again thank you for your time and valued advice. – Alen S

After watching your Offshore Cruising Video, I happened to see a picture of a ketch rigged with junk sails. One reminded me of the other. Is that where you got the idea for the fully battened sails front and rear? I sure do like that combination. Do you think it would work for a 40 ft. boat? What is your opinion of junk rigged cruising sailboats? Sidney

Hello. We have the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and the Mariner’s Weather Handbook, as well as the Dashew Offshore Video (which my VCR promptly ate), and I’ve enjoyed them immensely.

We have a 1978 Hudson Force 50 Ketch. We have just found out that our mizzen mast is rotten, and are planning to replace it with an aluminum one. My question is about the (wooden, painted) main mast and boom. According to a very experienced friend, the main mast has “some” rot, but may be able to be saved by removing all hardware and stripping it down to the wood, and inspecting. If we/he determines the mast can be fixed, we would fix the rotten places and repaint the mast. He thinks both port side spreaders will need to be replaced.

In addition, the main boom has bad rot in the lower scarf, just below the glue joint, (also) just below the big bronze fitting (name?) on the boom, which attaches to the gooseneck. The stainless tangs on the main look, at best, “fair”.

We plan to take the boat offshore in a few years. If we refurb the mast, is it advisable to replace the stainless (it is 1978 Taiwanese stainless) with new 316? Do you think the risk justifies replacing the main mast/boom with a new aluminum spar also? Thanks, Mike

Hello Steve: We are the owners of Tera Nova which we have renamed Mango Tango. We are sailing her around the world and are currently in Malaysia at Port Dickson Marina. We plan to join the Raja Muda Regatta in November. We have done a complete refit since buying the boat in 1999. We added A/C and a generator, changed motors to a 110 HP Volvo, and repainted and many small changes including carbon fiber pole and electric halyard winch. We have averaged, since leaving on our trip, 195 miles per day when sailing. The boat is just terrific we just have not seen any boat as owner friendly, fast and comfortable. We would like to install an asymmetrical spinnaker and would like your advice on a bow sprit. Thank You.

Hello, I was hoping to get your opinion on the S2 9.2 center cockpit…My plan is to liveaboard the boat in the Seattle and/or Portland areas, cruise the Sound, and at the maximum cruise up and down the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North America and cross the Atlantic to Bermuda and back. All this sailing will be done “in season” – I have no intention of tackling the North Pacific in the middle of winter, for instance. My sailing skills are minimal so I don’t really want to get in over my head when it comes to waterline/size…figured the 30′ S2 with its aft stateroom and center cockpit would be a good compromise…? Thanks…

What would be the best wind vane for a 22 foot O’Day sailboat? What do you think of a basic servo-pendulum steering gear? – Melanie E

Dear Steve & Linda: I have a NONSUCH 30, and would like to know if you have any comments about modifying your storm tactics for a catboat rig. The large forward mast makes it nearly impossible to stay into a heavy wind…and heaving-to is not an option. At anchor, as would be with a sea-anchor, the boat wanders at right-angles to a heavy wind. While I thankfully haven’t had to try it in heavy seas, I have found that anchoring off a stern corner keeps the boat headed downwind pretty steadily…of course it causes extra windage, and makes the cockpit area a wet and windy place. I am eagerly looking forward to studying your book…overcoming anxiety is worth a lot in being able to think through a stressful situation…and your spouse having greater confidence in you and the boat is PRICELESS!

My question is this. I feel that BEOWULF is too big for me. I don’t really want to deal with so many sails and the cost and effort to maintain, dock, haul, paint, etc. a 78-foot ketch, even if I have to go a little slower. I expect that, as in the past, you can’t help but always be thinking about how you might build a successor to your current yacht. Historically your yachts have always gotten bigger, but I was wondering if you had ever given any consideration to a new design, maybe in the 50-foot range, for those of us that are a little less aggressive in our cruising requirements than are you and Linda. A boat like the Farr 50 Pilothouse seems to have interesting design characteristics but I have not test sailed one because it doesn’t have sufficient headroom for me and I don’t want to waste their time. Because I am 6’3″ tall, and refuse to have to duck anywhere on my own boat,I require an absolute minimum of 6’6″ headroom throughout, including heads and showers. After many years of trying to find a boat in the 48-53-foot that is based on the design characteristics that you have pioneered, with an attractive pilothouse and an interior that is designed for both voyaging and live aboard, I am finally giving serious consideration to custom building a boat. I have eschewed this option until now for fear of making a mistake and owning a white elephant, which I can ill afford, but it seems that no production builder is going to build my dream boat for me while I am still young enough to use it. Whether you are interested in such project, or might suggest a couple of yacht designers whom you favor, I would appreciate your thoughts. Jeff