Could you…let me know what info should be included in a ship log, or send over an example? Lisa P.

I’m fascinated by your comments about Globalstar–do you think it’s a viable option for our cruise despite the company’s problems? I’m reluctant to buy a $1000 SSB modem if we can get satellite service instead…Best regards, Candace

Firstly, let me say how much I am enjoying your books, Mariner’s Weather Handbook and Surviving the Storm. For anyone with the slightest interest in the weather around them and in taking a boat to sea, they are excellent reading. However, I do have a couple of queries:

On page 340 of the ‘Mariner’s Weather Handbook’ you show three photographs of tropical revolving storms, when and where they should not be, one off Angola (West Africa) in April 1991 and two of one storm in the Eastern Mediterranean in January (no year mentioned). It is my understanding that no tropical revolving storms have ever been reported in the South Atlantic (until now) and that the sea temperatures in the Eastern Mediterranean in January are certainly not high enough for cyclogenesis nor is the ITCZ anywhere near the Mediterranean. Have you any explanation for these phenomena and/or a year for the Mediterranean storm (I would like to research past meteorological records to find what conditions actually existed in the latter case).

I look forward to your reply, Brent

Dear Steve, We have been following your commentary for years now and have a question that we hope you can help with.

Do you feel that a baby stay on the ketch rigged Sundeer 64’s would aid in preventing a mast inversion due to operator error? What conditions would create a circumstance where you could lose the spar?

I am referring to page 662 of Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, regarding your discussion of swept back spreaders. Is this setup less forgiving than a conventional spreader configuration with forward shrouds?

Any comment would be appreciated. Thanks, Wayne

Hi Steve and Linda: You may remember me as a contributor Surviving the Storm (RAMTHA Photos). We have purchased a Gitana 43 IOR-type yacht in order to undertake our planned extended cruise to the Northern Hemisphere starting 2004. The yacht is well proven with 5 Atlantic crossings and South Pacific passages since she was launched in Cape Town in 1981. We are now planning her refit. We intend unstepping the aluminium mast and closely inspecting the rig. This raises several questions as to how much we upgrade the mast systems and we would value your comments.

We intend keeping the slab reefing system but see potential in a low friction track system with Bat Cars. The mast currently has the original track where the slugs are flat and slide inside a track that is riveted on to the mast. The same system used for most trysails. The question is: Is there any major advantage or gain in upgrading to a low-friction track system with batten cars or should we continue with the existing system and be happy with the fact that the last third of the main needs to be hauled down by hand? The reefing is done at the mast. We intend adding lazy jacks and like the look of boom bags instead of a standard sail cover. Regards, Lindsay and Lynley Turvey

I recently read an article from Forespar, showing that your 78 foot Beowulf is using their AeroRigging spars. My question to you is, does this set up support less maintenance, ease of sailing? Also, I am very close to ordering a 46′ Prout Catamaran, and I am considering my custom rigging options. Which way would you go: Carbon Fibre Spars and Poles AeroRig Furlaway E-Z Furl? I will primarily be the only sailor aboard. Would you please share some of your tried and true experiences with me regarding the way you would go in this situation? Rory

Hi Steve, I note in your latest book thay you suggest using 2 mm UHMW for chafe patches. I have a Kelly Peterson 46 and am having my sacrificial jib panel replaced. I want to redo the spreader chafe patches as well but my sail maker doesn’t know where to get the UHMW material. He is game to try this, but thought if he can’t find it, maybe heavy (40 mil) dodger window material would work well. Any thoughts where to get the UHMW or does the dodger window material sound good? Thanks, Carl

I read your articles about drogues etc. and would ask you, (being newly baked at sea things), how does one determine the size of a drogue or sea-parachute ancher? I hve a 36 foot Malo 50 with 8 tons laden weight. Sincerely, Richard Dixon, Copenhagen

Hi, My wife and I are looking at buying a 65′ steel hull motorsailor that is not finished. By that I mean all that’s there is a complete hull with two engine rooms. If we buy we will most likely put in Perkins 135 hp engines as that is the design called for. My question today is about steering. The boat weighs at full load 96000 lbs. The rudder is a big one – 16’x14’x6′ and weighs 500 lbs. I know very little about hydraulic steering but that seems to be what most of the shipyard managers whom I’ve talked to suggest. Which make would you recommend as being able to add to it, if and when the situation arises? And which has a back-up in case of power loss? Or which could work on batteries vs engine power? And where can I find this information written down (on the page or the web)? Thanks, Rod and Lucy

Typically, in a race such as the Global Challenge, do you think it best to avoid the severest of the weather by working one’s way to the safer side of the fronts, or is it quicker to just batten down and ‘go for it’ ? I look forward to hearing from you . – Chris

Dear Sir, I am looking for a good cruising boat with a shallow draft or proven retractable keel design. I have raced in the southern oceans against wind and tide in 67ft steel hull 42 ton yachts and they were superb–but they have 9 ft drafts. I now live in Florida and plan to do some world cruising with my family. However, local water depths can be very shallow. Most of the day boats here have a very flimsy retractable keel (rotating blade hinged on a bolt and lifted on a cable. Many snap their cables and some break their bolts–and they just would not work in severe weather!!). I have heard of a famous 54ft steel ketch, Northanger, which cruises the extreme latitudes and has only 1m draft–but I have no idea of her retractable keel design or other design specifications. Regards Richard R. from the USA

I’ve recently escaped from Saudi Arabia where I’ve been working for the last six years. It’s now time to reclaim my life. I intend to do a few years cruising and am presently looking for a boat. One I have details of is a Venus 46, designer–Salthouse N.Z., built by Dong Sung. I have never heard of this one before, do you have any knowledge or info on these that you could advise me of. My favorite is the Hallberg Rassy 42. How do they compare. I’d be grateful for any info you could provide. Regards, Ian

Have you had experience with the Tacker, that plastic device that slides over the roller furled headsail to attach the clew of a spinnaker so you don’t use a pole? It seems to me the load on it would be excessive and possibly bend the foil on the furler.

Hello Steve, Would you please tell me the material you used for anchor rollers on Windhorse? Is there a good mix between something soft (quiet) enough and durable? Thanks, Bill

Dear Steve and Linda, Impressed by your books, esp. the encyclopedia. Still I’ve 1 question: I’m looking for a powered windlass for my new 50′ ALU ketch. In your books you hint electrical windlasses are good enough, however I hear from different people that they can only work for a short period because of heating of the DC motor. Indeed e.g. Muir says to me: max. 10 minutes running time. At a speed of 8 m.min that’s only 80 meters chain. Now you also write that anchoring involves 3 maybe even 5 trials before the anchor holds. How does that relate to each other? Wouldn’t therefore a hydraulic windlass be better? Many thanks in advance, Ronald

Good Morning Steve: I have a 98 Valiant 42. I’m selling her and moving to the trawler mode. Most trawlers are just ugly–too high off the water, too much windage. I’ve found the Dieselducks designed by George Buehler and built at Seahorse Marine in China. Please look over these and let me know what you think. Here is their website: http://www.seahorseyachts.com/ Go to the dieselduck 44 and take a look at them. Please let me know how you feel about steel boats and if the design is sound. I respect your opinion more than anyone out there. Thanks again, Roy

Dear Steve and Linda, heaving read all of your books I would like to thank you for your advice given there. As only one example, we’ve changed our mainsail to an extra-roached, fully-battened one which gave us 1 knot extra speed at all courses, which is a lot for 34 feet. Having a double backstay we don’t see any problems even with 30 cms overlap.

My question now is: What do you think of centerboards? We are interested in a 43′ Dutch aluminium Koopmans design which has no keel whatsoever. She sports only internal ballast and the centerboard seems rather small (weighing around 400 kg). The boat was constructed for falling dry in the North Sea. She has a long waterline and a draft of 1,20 meters board up and 2,50 m board down. The rudder is fully integrated into the hull and in line with the ship’s bottom, more just like a motorboat. Is the rudder surface of approx. 1,2 squaremeters large enough and the profile (not balanced) effective to steer the ship in a heavy going?

Thanks for some advice, and have some fun with your grandbaby. Andreas

Dear Steve & Linda: Received your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia Second Edition for Christmas 97 and I cannot stop reading it. I am at present building a 45ft steel motorsailor from a kit. The design includes welding a steel tube into the hull for the propeller shaft stern gear. As this tube is bored each end to accept the cutlass bearings and salt water is pumped through to lubricate these bearings, I am concerned about rusting of the inside of the tube and the corrosion around the cutlass bearing making for difficulty in removing for replacement bearing. Is it possible to manufacture the stern tube from stainless steel and weld the stainless to the steel hull? This would give the protection from corrosion. If it is (possible), what would be the ideal grade stainless steel? The propellor shaft is 316 grade. Regards, Dave

Dear Steve,

We build an aluminum 50ft and have one question.

1. How to make the lightning protection ground plate to the outside of the hull and what material/size to use. Hull material alloy 5083, painted.

2. How to make SSB ground plate to reflect waves into the air, also here please advice size and material.

Please be so kind to advice your comments based on experience on your aluminum boats.

I cannot find reply in your book.

Thank you and best regards, Alexander

Hello Dashews: We have a Cal 2-46 and I am struggling with how to build a substantial grounding plane for the SSB–the previous owner did not have an adequate installation. Could you give us some suggestions? So far, we understand that the sintered bronze plates are not adequate. One person suggested that we cover the entire rudder in copper plate, two have suggested that we epoxy copper screen into wherever we can in the bilge (which would be a lot of relatively small pieces), someone suggested multiple copper strips running lengthwise in the bilge and Ed at American Marine Coatings in Seattle says he can mix up a batch of his product with sufficient copper in it to make it conductive so it will work if painted into bilge spaces and connected up. What to you think? Thank you very much. Jim and Leslee

Hello, Because I am changing the interior of my wooden Van de Stadt Pacific sailing vessel I have to make several choices. Therefore I am happy with the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia because it is based on experience and that is what I need. It is my intention to install a hot water heating system and in the encyclopedia is mentioned a Teledyne system what would be a better system in comparison with Webasto, which I know well. Is it possible to send me an e-mail adress from Teledyne because I like to know more about the system.I was not succesful in finding Teledyne on the internet, and I am sure you can help me. Thank you very much in advance. Greetings, Paul

Good afternoon. This may be totally off the wall. But, would there be much of a use for a small metal lathe in a cruising situation? For making spare parts for my boat or better yet, making parts for other boats and getting paid for it? Thanks for any insight you will provide. David

Aloha from the Big Island, We’re going to be cruising the South Pacific for the next few years, and wondered if you have any recommendations for a health insurance company. We’ve enjoyed your books and website! Keep it up. Thanks, Richard and Kelly, s/v Amazing Grace

Hello Steve and Linda: As part of the crew aboard a Deerfoot 61, I will be assisting with preparing the vessel for extended cruising. She has a sugar scoop stern which brings her to 63′. My question is where to store the 12′ inflatable dingy. Currently it is hauled out of the forepeak, assembled, inflated and swung over the side using a halyard. The thought of performing this evolution at each anchorage is unappealing. After spending 6 years cruising aboard my own vessel which was equipped with davits I was mindful of the need to launch and retrieve the dingy easily. If we were sailing in protected waters the dingy with outboard hung in the davits. In open waters we removed the motor to the stern rail and snug the dingy up tight. Going to sea the dingy was brought to the foredeck, partially deflated, inverted and lashed down. I have looked over this web site and your book (an older one) and found references to the dingy but not to storage aboard the Deerfoot. Any references or insights would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Don

Hi Steve, I’ve finally finished reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and look forward to Surviving the Storm. Great job on its contents and construction–first class! May I pick your brain on the pros and cons of foreign flag vs. US documentation…I am mainly concerned with trouble in foreign ports (both ways; foreign flag ownership issues with customs, and anti-US sentimental issues with the locals of US registered entities). Thanks, Bill

Please can you help. We are new to boating and have a 40ft sailboat – recently the fuel tank was overfilled and as a result a valve in the gage popped and allowed a considerable amt of fuel into the bilge. I had just cleaned, polished etc the entire inside of the boat to make it smell OK after being closed up for some time and now it smells like the inside of a diesel tank!! Do you have any suggestion what we can do to help eliminate the smell – we are at Hastings, Victoria Australia and everyone here says we just have to live with it and it will diminish in time – I want to try anything – I get sea sick. Your comments will be appreciated. Thanks Bev

One of my batteries won’t hold a charge too long because either something is draining off some current and/or it got over charged when I was once having alternator problems. Any ideas? How does one test gel batteries? Thanks in advance, Marvin

Good Day: We are sailing our 48′ ketch up the Hudson into Canada this summer. We keep the boat in Elbow Cay in the Bahamas and plan to pull the masts in Albany.

I’ve seen awnings that don’t need to be supported by halyards. I’ve seen them supported with frames made with PVC pipe. Any idea who sells or might have plans for such an awning?

Do you sell or are you aware of any videos that might be of interest to us for this trip? Kindest regards, Steve

I am a Marine Surveyor in Northern CA and I am in the middle of managing a large maintenance and upgrade project for a client. The client is interested in following a number of suggestions made the the “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia”, one of which is having both an electric and manual shutdown for his diesel engine. The local Yards are saying they’ve never heard of doing this and I was wondering how to contact Steve Dashew to see if there is a drawing or write-up explaining the linkage so that we can move this process along. I have no doubt I can “engineer” the idea but was trying to avoid “re-inventing the wheel”. Can you provide me with his e-mail address or an address of someone who might have this info? Thank you, Michael

Where can I find more technical info on passages in El Niño years? I’ve been unable to find anything, even in your books and website. There’s talk of reinforced trades, reversed trades, and as you say reduced trades. Is there any solid data or experience on the subject? Many thanks again…Jan

Hi, I’m unable to locate a weatherfax for the South African coastline and immediate area. Please advise. Martin.

Steve…I hope you will forgive me for taking advantage of my ability to contact you so easily to clarify two points mentioned in your book. I realize you are extremely busy and would understand if your response came after you have completed your new book. Firstly, if I understand correctly, troughs (areas of lower contours) shown on the 500 mb charts are actually areas of higher pressure (page 136 of Mariner’s Weather Handbook).

I have a 1984 Hunter 34′ sailboat. Installing a new engine, Yanmar 3ym30 (29 HP). What size prop would you recommend? I’m strictly a coastal cruiser and would like a 3 blade. What are your thoughts? Carl W.

Steve– In your book you seemed to like the max prop. Is this still your true? if not, what is your opinion on the Gori 3 blade prop?

Another question to add to “The Right Boat” category, if you have a moment. I would certainly appreciate a comment or two regarding Gulfstars as a sailing boat, specifically the cutter-rigged Gulfstar 44. Anticipated use would be primarily coastal cruising and island-hopping in the Caribbean.

Hi Dashews–After many months of research and viewing, we have found our first boat! We are buying a 1964 Cal 40 in mostly lovely condition for about 50K. I would like your opinion on a couple of concerns I had about the boat.

1. We had an engine survey done and the V-drive needs replacing–what other mechanical systems would V-drive failure affect? Stuffing box? Prop? etc?

2. I have been trying to find out specifics on the hull construction (I was told it was made of 5 hand-laid layers of fiberglass & would be thrilled to find out if that’s true!) but am not having much luck. Are there any non-destructive tests that can be done on hulls to check the condition & thickness of the fiberglass?

3. I have done enough research to know that the tabbing on the Cal 40s is weak and that there are some concerns with the deck-hull joint. Will a surveyor specifically check the bulkheads and the d-h joint for signs of weakness as a matter of course or do I need to instruct him as to what exactly I want inspected?

4. There is some minor decay on the bridge beam–what’s the best way to stop it? Any info at all would be appreciated–we set sail for the first time ever in June!! Thanks, Erin

Hello Steve, I am sure you will know this design as it is not unlike yours. In your opinion is this a good boat to go cruising in? What do think are its good points and bad? I am concerned that it is very narrow and may not be a stiff boat. Also is the quality and strength of construction sufficient for blue water cruising. Thanks for any help you can give me. Regards, Andrew

Can a ratchet block be used in order to control the release of a furling line?

The 44′ boat I recently purchased uses a small diameter spectra line for furling, and if and when it takes off in a breeze, it can do great damage to the hands! If you let it go, it usually kinks in the aft furling block. Thanks, Ted

My husband and I are in the process of buying our first boat ever. We plan to live aboard while we learn to sail. I found a 1972 Challenger 40 for $29,000. It has a 13’10” beam and is really well laid out–we’d be quite comfortable living in it. However, it needs all of the rigging replaced. We just read an article in Cruising World about the costs of refitting a boat which gave a rigging replacement estimate of $10,000. In your opinion, do you think this would be worth it? We don’t mind investing elbow grease and gear costs, but we also don’t want to “go down with the ship” on this! Thank you! Erin

Dear Mr. Dashew: I have been using a roach/leech overlap of 20% with no problem of backstay passage, and I have found this conservative, and have had no chafing problem over a six- or seven-year period. Have you used higher percentage overlaps successfully?

I am currently considering the use of a single diagonal batten just down from the head of the sail to get the leech well out, and then downward, with the battens having up to a 50% overlap. By that I mean that if the distance from luff to backstay is one meter, the batten would be 1.5 meters long.

Watching videos of my sail passing the backstay in slow motion plus years of experience show me that the sail “peels” across the backstay from bottom to top. Therefore, once the sail assumes a rounded shape, the battens slide easily across the backstay. Do you think 50% overlap will work, and is this a maximum?

A final question: Have you used roller booms on any of your boats? I am using a roller boom, and this raises some additional issues in the event you have experience or thoughts on maxiroach sails and roller booms. Thanks in advance for your comments. Lowell

Hi, I own a Voyage 430 catamaran, I need an instructional DVD on how to sail a large cat. Can you help? Thank you,
Keith

Steve at SetSail, I’ve experienced significant weather helm sailing my 50′ custom design cruising catamaran in winds 12-15+ knots. When entering an inlet in confused tidal currents, the helm is heavy and the vessel slow to respond under power. A growing concern among my designer, sailmaker, rigger and a couple of experienced sailors who’ve been aboard is that the rudders are undersized and/or unbalanced. Can you recommend any source(s) to help me understand more about rudder design and performance? Kind regards, Jim

Hi! Is there anyone who could tell me where i could find the angle of limit stability or angle of vanishing for a morgan 382 or a cal 39? Thank you! – Jacques

Hi. Could you tell me if you have had any boats built at Bos and Carr in NZ. Two clients have an interest in using this yard and I have some indication that you are familiar with their work. John

After reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia I have a couple of questions about converting an alum. IOR boat to a cruiser. The boat, Doug Peterson 44′ alum. flush deck, displ 25,000 keel 10,000 , 13’6″ beam 8′ draft. Built 1978. Intended uses of boat, Mexico and South Pacific.

Should I be concerned about the range of stability? If I buy this boat I plan on adding extra tankage low in the hull and under the floorboards if possible.

Is there a formula to figure range of stability ?

And lastly, I really like the 14′ Wherry pulling dingy. Are they still in production?

THANK YOU, Gene

Hi I am having trouble getting an answer on how to reef my main sail. I have a Beneteau 350 Oceanis. It is “new to me” but the person I purchased it from could not reef the main. It is a North sail. I will try to describe what I have. First of all the Sail is set up for Dutchman flaking. (I don’t think this has any bearing on the problem) This is applicable to both the first and second reef points. The main sail has only 2 cringles.

I have a line that starts at the cockpit and goes to a pulley at the base of the mast. From this point it goes up to a pulley into the mast end of the Boom. It exits the boom at the clew and goes through the cringle in the sail and then the bitter end is made fast at and anchor point at the bottom of the boom.

As it is currently rigged I can reef the back of the sail. I cannot reef the luff or front. There must be some way of leading the line through he cringle at the luff of the sail. I can’t go from the base of the mast to the cringle because when I return to the boom it would be on the wrong side of the pulley. I am sure it would snag.

I do have 2 open stainless loops attached to each side of the mast but they do not seem to be at the right location to aid in the change of direction. I hope my description is adequate. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, How about some coments about anchors Bruce vs ROCNA for the tropics for a 68 ft wt 68,000 sailboat. What size for the ROCNA do I go with their charts or go weigh up and do we keep a large Bruce also. Thanks, Fred

I am doing an extensive refit of an old Pearson Coaster (30ft) with the goal of doing some extensive cruising. One problem I have been attempting to solve is the storage of the anchor chain. I know were I want to store it, in the keel, but getting it there is the problem.

I want to deliver the chain to the keel from the windless through a PVC pipe to the keel. My theory is that the PVC pipe is something that should be considered a wear item. I would be installing it in such a way that it can be easily replaced. Thus far I have isolated that I need a minimum slope of 12 degrees and that I need to use a pipe size of 1 1/2″ ID for the 1/4″ High Test chain. The next size smaller PVC pipe, 1 1/4″ ID, is just the right size that if a link rolls up the chain will jam.

This appears to me as though I might be going about this from the wrong direction. I don’t have any experience in this area and something doesn’t feel right about my solution.

If anyone has had any experience in this area and would be willing to share any suggestions, they would be most welcome. If I am going about this from the wrong direction, please tell me, and if there is a better way to approach this problem, that I would also like to know. Thank you in advance, Fred C.

What do you consider the best material for pilothouse windows? Lexan, Tempered or safety (laminated tempered) glass?? Phillip

Hello, I’m looking at purchasing a yacht capable of offshore voyages in and around the Southern Ocean, I have found one which suits all my requirements except this steel yacht has a wooden deck and cockpit. Would this partial wooden construction compromise the structural strength of the yacht given worst-case scenarios in big seas? Marcus

Dear Steve and Linda: I am following you book as a guide (maybe I should say Bible, as I suspect many others are also). I plan to use a lightweight tread plate on the walkways on the top of the hulls and a few other places. The builder is concerned that, when the tread gets wet, it will be quite slippery. He thinks that you must be putting something in the way of nonskid on the tread plate. I suspect he is wrong but thought I should check. He is recommending that I use normal aluminum decking and apply a cork-based product made in Great Britain [I believe]. I prefer to stay with the tread plate, but only if this going to give me good footing when wet. I would appreciate knowing your experiences with the tread plate decking, as far as being slippery when wet. Incidentally, you recommended that I go with 80 grit versus the 120 I had considered. Boy, were you right! It looks much better. I am going to use the Barnacle System, I think, and thought of finishing the bottom in 120 grit and running without bottom paint to see what happens with just the Barnaclean system. [Your thoughts?] -Bill

Hi, have enjoyed reading your books. Was wondering what kind of bedding you use for circumnavigation taking in all the elements? Also, what kind of storage containers do you recommend for rice, flour, sugar etc…that last and keep things fresh? Thanks for the info…Jim

Hi, We would like to sail from Florida to Cancun next February. (We have a 47′ Hunter). We would then like to do approx. four eight-to-ten-day trips, using Cancun as a base. We also need to leave the boat at the beginning of March for 2 weeks. Can you recommend where we might look for reputable marinas? All I have found on the web so far is Scuba centres. Also are there any books on cruising in the area? Rgds, Richard

Hello SetSail folks…

First things…I have truly enjoyed your website and cover stories, please continue with your efforts. I am writing from Edmonton, Canada in hopes of receiving some direction or recommendations from those with much more knowledge in the area of sailing than I. I understand my vision may be a long-shot, but am hoping someone will come to my aid.

I have enjoyed the opportunity to be a passenger on a few larger sailing vessels (cruise-like atmosphere) in the Caribbean and am now looking to expand my travels, feed my desires and drive for sailing and partake on a short or long-distance sailing venture on a smaller vessel. Unfortunately, my skills in the same are lacking, as I have no formal or informal training here. I have a reputable and successful career in health care, but am looking to leave and do some traveling, particularly to join a family or crew on an extended sailing journey (s), to offer my assistance if/where possible and perhaps learn about seamanship during the ventures. I am considering travel in the Caribbean, Australia or other tropical destinations.

I again realize this may be a long-shot and was at a loss as to where to initiate such a search. Can you offer any suggestions, contacts or links to families or individuals in search of a trustworthy, hardworking and dedicated traveling companion for their travels (this could also include for child care, extreme novice crew, or even bartending)? For personal information on myself, I would be happy to offer that which would help narrow the search. For the basics, I am 30 yrs of age, female, divorced and financially secure. What else can I offer to assist in my search? Please let me know of any suggestions. Your help is greatly appreciated. Do not hesitate to contact me via e-mail. Thank you, again. Tammy

We are a family of 2 adults and four (soon to be five!) children about to embark on full-time cruising. We have ordered the Mariner’s Weather Handbook + CD and eagerly await its arrival.

In the meantime we have a burning question for which we cannot seem to find a clear answer. If the answer is in your Encyclopedia, just point us in that direction. We do plan to buy it, but are trying to pace ourselves on literature since one can only read so much at once. Anyway…

We are refitting an old Royal National Lifeboat here in England. We cannot register it here (unless we incorporate in the UK for the purpose) since we are not British citizens.

Our choices seem to be US Registration, or registration in the Grand Cayman Islands or some other offshore entity. Do you have any thoughts on the pros and cons of registering in various places? So far all we have found is a brief reference in “Voyaging Under Power” stating that really official US Registration papers can be helpful.

What do you think? Thanks, Russ & Karla & Crew

Steve, I’ve been sailing over 67 years. I sail a 1973 Pearson 33. I’m on the verge of installing a Frigoboat Keel Cooler system, which, as you no doubt know, runs the refrigerant tube thru a shoe outside the hull for cooling. However, I have concerns about corrosion and marine fouling, as the shoe cannot be painted. The salesperson that I’m dealing with said (his spelling): "Sailing gurus Nigel Calder, Tom Neal, and Steve Dashew all use and endorse the keel cooler." Tom Neale is not familiar with it and I haven’t yet reached Nigel Calder. Do you have a track record with the keel cooler? Sincerely, from the Jersey Shore, George

I’ve got an electrical generating concept to bounce off you. The boat is a catamaran with two Yanmar 27 HP engines. I want to power a Marine Air 16K btu air conditioner without adding a genset (third engine, weight). I’d like to run two 120 amp alternators in parallel on each engine (one regulator per engine) by connecting their fields together. Then add a second 3KW inverter that powers only the airco compressor. A link 20 runs the 800 AH battery bank. What do you think? Thanks, Bill

I’m trying to track down the “super juice” eutectic solution mentioned as being used by you to improve holdover plate performance. Where should I be looking? Thank you very much! Don Joyce

Can find no mention of “traction” batteries at Trojan’s web site. Do you have a part number or other identifier? Stan

I am hoping to make this trip starting in October of this year. Do you have an opinion regarding the “weather window” in mid October? From what I have read I should be OK although there are always exceptions. I thought I would keep an eye on the group of people in the Baja Ha Ha race that usually head south from San Diego to Cabo in late October. If there are no storms developing off the coast of Mexico that would eventually head northwest then I thought I would leave San Diego on a rhumb line for the “Islands.” If you have an opinion or experiences contrary to mine, I would appreciate the input. Sincere and personal regards, Jim Alexander

Hi Steve and Linda, I just started reading your Mariner’s Weather Handbook and I stumbled across something on page 59. In the italic at the bottom of the page it is stated that the effect of coriolis is less at higher altitude. I was puzzled by this, because from my time as an aviation student (a long, long, 21 years ago) I remembered that, due to friction, the effect of coriolis close to the surface, and especially over land, was less. Also in the italic part you (correctly I believe) state that over water (less friction) the wind angle relative to the isobars is less. This indicated a greater effect of coriolis. With no coriolis at all the wind angle would be perpendicular to the isobars. This also agrees with my experience as a pilot. The first 4000ft or so the wind veers as you go up. Less friction means greater effect from coriolis. What do you think? Has 21 years been too long or is there indeed something unclear in the text, and is it that what has got me thinking? I would very much appreciate it if you could shed some light on this matter. In the meantime I’ll continue reading your fine book, as I’ve done with the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia.

Dear Steve,

I am building a Bruce Roberts kit of 54′ radius chine cutter. After reading the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and viewing your Beowulf: The Legend DVD, I have decided to install CP prop by Hundested. I am getting the prop from Todd Terry at Pacific Marine Equipment, Inc. in Seattle. As far as I was able to find out, they are the (US) West Coast distributor for Hundested gear. Anyway, the thing is: You are saying in your book that you were using VP2 model, which according to Todd is no longer available. Therefore I am going with a bit larger VP3 model. Now, according to Todd, one can choose either fully reversible pitch prop or fully featherable prop to minimize the drag while sailing.

If I choose fully featherable prop, my reverse pitch is very minimal, nowhere near the forward pitch. If I choose the fully reversible prop I will have to give up the low drag feature of fully feathered prop.

After viewing Beowulf DVD In the chapter titled "Maneuvering Under Power", you have Linda reverse the pitch from 3.5 ahead to 4 astern. The scale on the gauge shows up to 6 ahead, up to 5 astern and also feathered position. Does it mean that with the VP2 you had the option of having nearly fully reversible pitch and also feathered position for sailing???

Are you familiar with the VP3 model and what is the difference between it and the old VP2 one? I have seen the operational model of VP3 in Seattle and in fact the reverse pitch is very minimal, a fraction of the forward pitch capabilities. Was your prop the same way?

I am sorry for rumbling on and on about it, but the Hundested props as you know are not cheap and I would like to make sure that my money will be wisely spent. I would be very grateful for your comments regarding this matter.

Good luck with your UnSailboat! I hope to meet you one day in some anchorage. Best Regards, Remek

Hi Dashews, Have 3 of your great books and getting a great deal from them. My yacht has a free-wheeling engine shaft and I understand someone has developed a system whereby you can mount an electrical generator inside the boat to the engine shaft via a belt and a set of pulleys–have you any information on this system, or contacts where it could be obtained? Regards, Mike