Typically, in a race such as the Global Challenge, do you think it best to avoid the severest of the weather by working one’s way to the safer side of the fronts, or is it quicker to just batten down and ‘go for it’ ? I look forward to hearing from you . – Chris

Dear Sir, I am looking for a good cruising boat with a shallow draft or proven retractable keel design. I have raced in the southern oceans against wind and tide in 67ft steel hull 42 ton yachts and they were superb–but they have 9 ft drafts. I now live in Florida and plan to do some world cruising with my family. However, local water depths can be very shallow. Most of the day boats here have a very flimsy retractable keel (rotating blade hinged on a bolt and lifted on a cable. Many snap their cables and some break their bolts–and they just would not work in severe weather!!). I have heard of a famous 54ft steel ketch, Northanger, which cruises the extreme latitudes and has only 1m draft–but I have no idea of her retractable keel design or other design specifications. Regards Richard R. from the USA

I’ve recently escaped from Saudi Arabia where I’ve been working for the last six years. It’s now time to reclaim my life. I intend to do a few years cruising and am presently looking for a boat. One I have details of is a Venus 46, designer–Salthouse N.Z., built by Dong Sung. I have never heard of this one before, do you have any knowledge or info on these that you could advise me of. My favorite is the Hallberg Rassy 42. How do they compare. I’d be grateful for any info you could provide. Regards, Ian

Have you had experience with the Tacker, that plastic device that slides over the roller furled headsail to attach the clew of a spinnaker so you don’t use a pole? It seems to me the load on it would be excessive and possibly bend the foil on the furler.

Hello, How about some coments about anchors Bruce vs ROCNA for the tropics for a 68 ft wt 68,000 sailboat. What size for the ROCNA do I go with their charts or go weigh up and do we keep a large Bruce also. Thanks, Fred

I am doing an extensive refit of an old Pearson Coaster (30ft) with the goal of doing some extensive cruising. One problem I have been attempting to solve is the storage of the anchor chain. I know were I want to store it, in the keel, but getting it there is the problem.

I want to deliver the chain to the keel from the windless through a PVC pipe to the keel. My theory is that the PVC pipe is something that should be considered a wear item. I would be installing it in such a way that it can be easily replaced. Thus far I have isolated that I need a minimum slope of 12 degrees and that I need to use a pipe size of 1 1/2″ ID for the 1/4″ High Test chain. The next size smaller PVC pipe, 1 1/4″ ID, is just the right size that if a link rolls up the chain will jam.

This appears to me as though I might be going about this from the wrong direction. I don’t have any experience in this area and something doesn’t feel right about my solution.

If anyone has had any experience in this area and would be willing to share any suggestions, they would be most welcome. If I am going about this from the wrong direction, please tell me, and if there is a better way to approach this problem, that I would also like to know. Thank you in advance, Fred C.

What do you consider the best material for pilothouse windows? Lexan, Tempered or safety (laminated tempered) glass?? Phillip

Hello, I’m looking at purchasing a yacht capable of offshore voyages in and around the Southern Ocean, I have found one which suits all my requirements except this steel yacht has a wooden deck and cockpit. Would this partial wooden construction compromise the structural strength of the yacht given worst-case scenarios in big seas? Marcus

Dear Steve and Linda: I am following you book as a guide (maybe I should say Bible, as I suspect many others are also). I plan to use a lightweight tread plate on the walkways on the top of the hulls and a few other places. The builder is concerned that, when the tread gets wet, it will be quite slippery. He thinks that you must be putting something in the way of nonskid on the tread plate. I suspect he is wrong but thought I should check. He is recommending that I use normal aluminum decking and apply a cork-based product made in Great Britain [I believe]. I prefer to stay with the tread plate, but only if this going to give me good footing when wet. I would appreciate knowing your experiences with the tread plate decking, as far as being slippery when wet. Incidentally, you recommended that I go with 80 grit versus the 120 I had considered. Boy, were you right! It looks much better. I am going to use the Barnacle System, I think, and thought of finishing the bottom in 120 grit and running without bottom paint to see what happens with just the Barnaclean system. [Your thoughts?] -Bill

Hi, have enjoyed reading your books. Was wondering what kind of bedding you use for circumnavigation taking in all the elements? Also, what kind of storage containers do you recommend for rice, flour, sugar etc…that last and keep things fresh? Thanks for the info…Jim

Hi, We would like to sail from Florida to Cancun next February. (We have a 47′ Hunter). We would then like to do approx. four eight-to-ten-day trips, using Cancun as a base. We also need to leave the boat at the beginning of March for 2 weeks. Can you recommend where we might look for reputable marinas? All I have found on the web so far is Scuba centres. Also are there any books on cruising in the area? Rgds, Richard

Hello SetSail folks…

First things…I have truly enjoyed your website and cover stories, please continue with your efforts. I am writing from Edmonton, Canada in hopes of receiving some direction or recommendations from those with much more knowledge in the area of sailing than I. I understand my vision may be a long-shot, but am hoping someone will come to my aid.

I have enjoyed the opportunity to be a passenger on a few larger sailing vessels (cruise-like atmosphere) in the Caribbean and am now looking to expand my travels, feed my desires and drive for sailing and partake on a short or long-distance sailing venture on a smaller vessel. Unfortunately, my skills in the same are lacking, as I have no formal or informal training here. I have a reputable and successful career in health care, but am looking to leave and do some traveling, particularly to join a family or crew on an extended sailing journey (s), to offer my assistance if/where possible and perhaps learn about seamanship during the ventures. I am considering travel in the Caribbean, Australia or other tropical destinations.

I again realize this may be a long-shot and was at a loss as to where to initiate such a search. Can you offer any suggestions, contacts or links to families or individuals in search of a trustworthy, hardworking and dedicated traveling companion for their travels (this could also include for child care, extreme novice crew, or even bartending)? For personal information on myself, I would be happy to offer that which would help narrow the search. For the basics, I am 30 yrs of age, female, divorced and financially secure. What else can I offer to assist in my search? Please let me know of any suggestions. Your help is greatly appreciated. Do not hesitate to contact me via e-mail. Thank you, again. Tammy

We are a family of 2 adults and four (soon to be five!) children about to embark on full-time cruising. We have ordered the Mariner’s Weather Handbook + CD and eagerly await its arrival.

In the meantime we have a burning question for which we cannot seem to find a clear answer. If the answer is in your Encyclopedia, just point us in that direction. We do plan to buy it, but are trying to pace ourselves on literature since one can only read so much at once. Anyway…

We are refitting an old Royal National Lifeboat here in England. We cannot register it here (unless we incorporate in the UK for the purpose) since we are not British citizens.

Our choices seem to be US Registration, or registration in the Grand Cayman Islands or some other offshore entity. Do you have any thoughts on the pros and cons of registering in various places? So far all we have found is a brief reference in “Voyaging Under Power” stating that really official US Registration papers can be helpful.

What do you think? Thanks, Russ & Karla & Crew

Steve, I’ve been sailing over 67 years. I sail a 1973 Pearson 33. I’m on the verge of installing a Frigoboat Keel Cooler system, which, as you no doubt know, runs the refrigerant tube thru a shoe outside the hull for cooling. However, I have concerns about corrosion and marine fouling, as the shoe cannot be painted. The salesperson that I’m dealing with said (his spelling): "Sailing gurus Nigel Calder, Tom Neal, and Steve Dashew all use and endorse the keel cooler." Tom Neale is not familiar with it and I haven’t yet reached Nigel Calder. Do you have a track record with the keel cooler? Sincerely, from the Jersey Shore, George

I’ve got an electrical generating concept to bounce off you. The boat is a catamaran with two Yanmar 27 HP engines. I want to power a Marine Air 16K btu air conditioner without adding a genset (third engine, weight). I’d like to run two 120 amp alternators in parallel on each engine (one regulator per engine) by connecting their fields together. Then add a second 3KW inverter that powers only the airco compressor. A link 20 runs the 800 AH battery bank. What do you think? Thanks, Bill

I’m trying to track down the “super juice” eutectic solution mentioned as being used by you to improve holdover plate performance. Where should I be looking? Thank you very much! Don Joyce

Can find no mention of “traction” batteries at Trojan’s web site. Do you have a part number or other identifier? Stan

I am hoping to make this trip starting in October of this year. Do you have an opinion regarding the “weather window” in mid October? From what I have read I should be OK although there are always exceptions. I thought I would keep an eye on the group of people in the Baja Ha Ha race that usually head south from San Diego to Cabo in late October. If there are no storms developing off the coast of Mexico that would eventually head northwest then I thought I would leave San Diego on a rhumb line for the “Islands.” If you have an opinion or experiences contrary to mine, I would appreciate the input. Sincere and personal regards, Jim Alexander

Hi Steve and Linda, I just started reading your Mariner’s Weather Handbook and I stumbled across something on page 59. In the italic at the bottom of the page it is stated that the effect of coriolis is less at higher altitude. I was puzzled by this, because from my time as an aviation student (a long, long, 21 years ago) I remembered that, due to friction, the effect of coriolis close to the surface, and especially over land, was less. Also in the italic part you (correctly I believe) state that over water (less friction) the wind angle relative to the isobars is less. This indicated a greater effect of coriolis. With no coriolis at all the wind angle would be perpendicular to the isobars. This also agrees with my experience as a pilot. The first 4000ft or so the wind veers as you go up. Less friction means greater effect from coriolis. What do you think? Has 21 years been too long or is there indeed something unclear in the text, and is it that what has got me thinking? I would very much appreciate it if you could shed some light on this matter. In the meantime I’ll continue reading your fine book, as I’ve done with the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia.

Dear Steve,

I am building a Bruce Roberts kit of 54′ radius chine cutter. After reading the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and viewing your Beowulf: The Legend DVD, I have decided to install CP prop by Hundested. I am getting the prop from Todd Terry at Pacific Marine Equipment, Inc. in Seattle. As far as I was able to find out, they are the (US) West Coast distributor for Hundested gear. Anyway, the thing is: You are saying in your book that you were using VP2 model, which according to Todd is no longer available. Therefore I am going with a bit larger VP3 model. Now, according to Todd, one can choose either fully reversible pitch prop or fully featherable prop to minimize the drag while sailing.

If I choose fully featherable prop, my reverse pitch is very minimal, nowhere near the forward pitch. If I choose the fully reversible prop I will have to give up the low drag feature of fully feathered prop.

After viewing Beowulf DVD In the chapter titled "Maneuvering Under Power", you have Linda reverse the pitch from 3.5 ahead to 4 astern. The scale on the gauge shows up to 6 ahead, up to 5 astern and also feathered position. Does it mean that with the VP2 you had the option of having nearly fully reversible pitch and also feathered position for sailing???

Are you familiar with the VP3 model and what is the difference between it and the old VP2 one? I have seen the operational model of VP3 in Seattle and in fact the reverse pitch is very minimal, a fraction of the forward pitch capabilities. Was your prop the same way?

I am sorry for rumbling on and on about it, but the Hundested props as you know are not cheap and I would like to make sure that my money will be wisely spent. I would be very grateful for your comments regarding this matter.

Good luck with your UnSailboat! I hope to meet you one day in some anchorage. Best Regards, Remek

Hi Dashews, Have 3 of your great books and getting a great deal from them. My yacht has a free-wheeling engine shaft and I understand someone has developed a system whereby you can mount an electrical generator inside the boat to the engine shaft via a belt and a set of pulleys–have you any information on this system, or contacts where it could be obtained? Regards, Mike

Steve, I wonder if you have had a look at the Aerodyne 47 with regard to use for bluewater cruising. I also wonder if the hull can take the bumps and knocks from extended cruise. Thanks, Howard.

Hi Steve: I have been admiring your crafts for some time now, and probably like everyone else, I am a big fan of your brilliant designs…speaking of brilliant designs have you stopped production on the Sundeer 64 and if not what are the price tags on one of those? I found a charter service online that uses one of these great cruisers and hope to charter it soon if I can get the chance. I would love to get a feel for it! thanks Michael L

I am considering the purchase of a 63′ vessel which is located in Rhode Island (I happen to live in Portland, Oregon). I am including a link to the broker’s listing for her and, if you have a moment, would appreciate your thoughts. The owner says he has been aboard BEOWULF, so you may have seen his boat, also.

Any thoughts or comments will be appreciated. What I’m looking for is a boat two people can sail. This one would take some work to get there, but it seems like it could be possible…

I have become somewhat obsessed with her, but am not sure it would be in my best interest to get involved. She seems like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity…Built to a high standard, to withstand sailing in the Southern Ocean. Fast, lots of interior room to setup for live-aboard. The structural advantages of aluminum.

I’m looking for honest, direct thoughts.

Can a ratchet block be used in order to control the release of a furling line?

The 44′ boat I recently purchased uses a small diameter spectra line for furling, and if and when it takes off in a breeze, it can do great damage to the hands! If you let it go, it usually kinks in the aft furling block. Thanks, Ted

My husband and I are in the process of buying our first boat ever. We plan to live aboard while we learn to sail. I found a 1972 Challenger 40 for $29,000. It has a 13’10” beam and is really well laid out–we’d be quite comfortable living in it. However, it needs all of the rigging replaced. We just read an article in Cruising World about the costs of refitting a boat which gave a rigging replacement estimate of $10,000. In your opinion, do you think this would be worth it? We don’t mind investing elbow grease and gear costs, but we also don’t want to “go down with the ship” on this! Thank you! Erin

Dear Mr. Dashew: I have been using a roach/leech overlap of 20% with no problem of backstay passage, and I have found this conservative, and have had no chafing problem over a six- or seven-year period. Have you used higher percentage overlaps successfully?

I am currently considering the use of a single diagonal batten just down from the head of the sail to get the leech well out, and then downward, with the battens having up to a 50% overlap. By that I mean that if the distance from luff to backstay is one meter, the batten would be 1.5 meters long.

Watching videos of my sail passing the backstay in slow motion plus years of experience show me that the sail “peels” across the backstay from bottom to top. Therefore, once the sail assumes a rounded shape, the battens slide easily across the backstay. Do you think 50% overlap will work, and is this a maximum?

A final question: Have you used roller booms on any of your boats? I am using a roller boom, and this raises some additional issues in the event you have experience or thoughts on maxiroach sails and roller booms. Thanks in advance for your comments. Lowell

Hi, I own a Voyage 430 catamaran, I need an instructional DVD on how to sail a large cat. Can you help? Thank you,
Keith

Steve at SetSail, I’ve experienced significant weather helm sailing my 50′ custom design cruising catamaran in winds 12-15+ knots. When entering an inlet in confused tidal currents, the helm is heavy and the vessel slow to respond under power. A growing concern among my designer, sailmaker, rigger and a couple of experienced sailors who’ve been aboard is that the rudders are undersized and/or unbalanced. Can you recommend any source(s) to help me understand more about rudder design and performance? Kind regards, Jim

Hi! Is there anyone who could tell me where i could find the angle of limit stability or angle of vanishing for a morgan 382 or a cal 39? Thank you! – Jacques

Hi. Could you tell me if you have had any boats built at Bos and Carr in NZ. Two clients have an interest in using this yard and I have some indication that you are familiar with their work. John

After reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia I have a couple of questions about converting an alum. IOR boat to a cruiser. The boat, Doug Peterson 44′ alum. flush deck, displ 25,000 keel 10,000 , 13’6″ beam 8′ draft. Built 1978. Intended uses of boat, Mexico and South Pacific.

Should I be concerned about the range of stability? If I buy this boat I plan on adding extra tankage low in the hull and under the floorboards if possible.

Is there a formula to figure range of stability ?

And lastly, I really like the 14′ Wherry pulling dingy. Are they still in production?

THANK YOU, Gene

Hi I am having trouble getting an answer on how to reef my main sail. I have a Beneteau 350 Oceanis. It is “new to me” but the person I purchased it from could not reef the main. It is a North sail. I will try to describe what I have. First of all the Sail is set up for Dutchman flaking. (I don’t think this has any bearing on the problem) This is applicable to both the first and second reef points. The main sail has only 2 cringles.

I have a line that starts at the cockpit and goes to a pulley at the base of the mast. From this point it goes up to a pulley into the mast end of the Boom. It exits the boom at the clew and goes through the cringle in the sail and then the bitter end is made fast at and anchor point at the bottom of the boom.

As it is currently rigged I can reef the back of the sail. I cannot reef the luff or front. There must be some way of leading the line through he cringle at the luff of the sail. I can’t go from the base of the mast to the cringle because when I return to the boom it would be on the wrong side of the pulley. I am sure it would snag.

I do have 2 open stainless loops attached to each side of the mast but they do not seem to be at the right location to aid in the change of direction. I hope my description is adequate. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am going to school on your experience. I am wanting to upgrade my windlass from an older AnchorMan that is better suited to line than the System 7 3/8th chain and 65-pound spade we have acquired.

I was intrigued by Maxwell’s offerings but their specs shown on the web seemed to indicate they support 3/8th SHORT chain? Have I missed something? The G-7 seems to have a diameter = .394", inside length = 1.23", inside width = .62".

Do you get a different chainwheel/gypsy? I saw a discounted Maxwell VW series 1200, but with a shorter chainweel/gypsy at my local chandlery that I would like to buy if it’s possible to get a chainwheel put in for the system 7 3/8th chain.

Does it make a difference where on the rode you attach a nylon snubber when anchoring? I would think that closest to the boat would be best – putting the snubber between most of the chain shock and the boat, but that would make it impossible to shorten your scope after setting the anchor. Suggestions? Mark L.

Dear Setsail, I’m in the process of speccing out the glazing for the pilothouse on the boat I am building. I have narrowed it down to either 1/2" tempered glass or 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate and am now looking for a little real world experience to tip the scale. One nagging doubt: the long-term durability of this product in the voyaging environment. I’ve read in your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia that you recommended and used polycarbonate on your sailing vessels, but noticed that you made the switch to glass in the FPB series. After walking the docks at the boat shows and talking to designers and builders of some of the high-end custom pilothouse and raised saloon boats, it seems they all are going with toughened glass, but none seem to have any direct experience with abrasion resistant polycarbonate. What’s your experience? Best regards, Collin

Hello Steve, I have been offered a really nice bare hull, but the mould for the deck is a center cockpit. I would like to build the boat as an aft cockpit. I could either build a deck in plywood and glass it on top afterward, but I wondered if I could build a deck in aluminum. This seems to me to be quite a good mix. Fiberglass below and aluminum above. This would suit me because I could leave it bare for non slip on the side decks and also I could build the hard dodger in aluminum. Do you think that the differential expansion between fiberglass on aluminum could cause a problem? I also wonder whether it might cause problems later with resale because it is so unconventional. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks, Howard

Dear Steve and Linda: In addition to the above I also have both (editions) of your Encyclopedias. I am using the latest Encyclopedia as a guide, as we design a 65 x 32 aluminum catamaran, which will draw two feet when fully loaded. It is being designed by Grant Robinson in St. Augustine, Florida. It is to be built by Topper Hermason of Amelia Island, Florida. Your Encyclopedia has been more than invaluable and so I bought it for Grant to serve as a basis to make sure we are clear on what we are discussing. Based on your writings, I am going to leave the vessel unpainted and ground to 120 grit. I plan to spend years in the Southwestern Pacific. I am very concerned about what deck temperatures I should expect with unpainted deck and hulls in the tropics. I know you are very experienced in this area and would appreciate your input. Do the decks get too hot for comfort? Are you still happy with an unpainted aluminum vessel? What temperature ranges should I expect the deck to reach given being in the tropics and on open seas? I do appreciate your taking time to respond to the above. I look forward to your next book, which I understand will be available within a short time. Sincerely, Bill

Dear Steve: I have just read your article in Practical Sailor’s latest issue regarding gear info after 38000 miles. In it you said you had a problem with your SGC 2000 HF radio and the Pactor II modem in trying to send e-mail. I own a 2 year old SGC 2000 with the new “Powertalk” remote head which I bought because it was supposed to be better for clear data transmission in poor conditions. You stated that the radio drifted off frequency (which obviously would mess up data transmission). Is this a problem with all models of SGC 2000 radios or a problem specific to your radio and/or model? I am just getting ready to purchase a Pactor II modem and get my radio set up for e-mail as my wife and I are preparing for a 2 year cruise on our Saga 43 from Maine to the Caribbean and then to the Azores and the Med. This problem with the SGC 2000 concerns me!! Should I sell it and get an ICOM 710 like everyone else?! Thanks for your comments, Frank

Steve, I’ve been reading your great site and wanted to ask a few questions/make a few comments. With ventilation systems (including conditioned air)? You don’t seem to use ducted systems, is there any reason for this? In my experience (non-marine), dual 6-inch (15cm) ducts would be adequate for the living area sizes you have. I’m not thinking of round ducts, but more a box section mounted in the ‘eaves’ area. Your thoughts? – Craig

Hello, Great site.

I will be joining some from friends that are cruising in the Galapagos next week. Can you tell me if there will be a problem cruising, hiking or diving without a guide ?

Thanks, Richard

We’ll be cruising the Caribbean, Bahamas, maybe Mexico for 6 months or more. I cannot get more than a 3-month supply of meds we take regularly before we leave. What will I need to get meds in those areas? Thank you. Claire

Hi. We are Dutch inhabitants, living in the Netherlands. We are building a 53ft sailingyacht by a Dutch yachtbuilder. Our purpose is to go living onboard and sailing all over the world.

1: Is it possible to registrate this yacht in the Channel Islands or elsewhere in the world.
2: Is it legal that the Dutch yachtbuilder can sell to us -or to our company- this yacht without paying VAT in the Netherlands or elsewhere in the EC. ( an VAT-0 option)
3: Is it necessary to start a company out there and how do we do this
4: Do you have experience with people who make arrangements for this
5: What is necessary to do so
6: What are the costs

Jaap en Renee from the Netherlands

Hello–My husband has gone off the “deep” end. He wants to sell everything we own and buy a 30-40′ sailboat and cruise the Pacific coast. I’m all for it, but I need to figure out how to prepare for an undertaking like this! Neither of us have ever sailed before, however, my husband is taking a 4-day ASA certification class in Seward, Alaska this summer and he has been commercial fishing in Alaska (Prince William Sound & Cook Inlet) for years. Please let me know of a book or a person who has gone from landlubber to sailor in a short period of time so I can start to figure out exactly what kinds of preparations we need to be making. The sooner the better–he wants to leave THIS summer! Thank you–Erin

Dear Steve, Just finished your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Great ideas and information. My wife and I just bought a Stevens 47 and hope to start applying your theories soon on our planned circumnavigation. Its 500 nm fuel range has me concerned though. Would you advise converting 50 gal. of its water tankage to fuel, leaving 75 gal. of water and a 20 gph genset powered watermaker? – Jim

Do you have any recommendation on how to isolate a alternator from engine body to prevent electrolyses on metal hull?

We are in the process of purchasing an LRC trawler and are wondering about the advisability of including a watermaking system. We don’t know which is preferable, reverse osmosis or evaporator. Any thoughts on types, preferred brands, tradeoffs, etc? Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks, Tom C. and Bob S.

Can you tell me what type of sanitation hose you like to use? We put in Shields hoses last year and now have a smell coming from the hose at the holding tank outlet. Any ideas? Dave

Dear Steve, Thank you for your last article of weather charts by e-mail from NOAA. Any possibility to have the weather charts for my area River of the Plate (Buenos Aires and Uruguay coast) would be wonderfull. Thank you, and excellent your work for all the cruisers world wide. Best regards, Roberto

Hi Steve, I have just discovered your website, and via Ocean Navigator have ordered your storm tactics book (Surviving the Storm). We are preparing for a 14-month trip first from East Coast US to Europe, then down the clasic trading route to Brazil, and through the Strait of Magellan in January, & up the west coast of SA, returing home via Panama Canal and the Yucatan. I have had a lot of people recommend the Sea Station unit to us. It’s a lot to jam on a well-found 36 ketch, but I am tempted. It has weather fax through the SSB as part of the software. I would like your comments. Do you think this is any substitute in regions where weather fax is unavailable? It uses low power and is no big deal for the computer, so long as we have power. Many Thanks, Andy.

Hi! My dealer and I are having this contest, you know the kind 😉 about painting the prop shaft and prop. He’s already done it, and insists it’s "always done that way." I say no. I want the paint removed. The vessel is a 2000 Hunter Passage 450, the prop is an Autoprop. The Autoprop dealer (A&B Marine) recommends not painting but using their "Anti-Fouling Goop," a greasy lanolin compound. I have had to scrape the barnacles off the prop personally, so I know that bottom paint does not retard marine growth here in SW Florida. The Goop "seems" to work. It’s not been tried on a clean prop over an entire season. Comments? I love the books, videos, CDs and am amazed with MaxSea, especially the weather routing. Keep sailing! Errrr…… Boating!!!!!! Regards, Drew D

Hi, I’ve just finished your latest Storm Tactics, it’s grate.I’ve also read and loved your others. Can you tell me how to tell if my prop is sized properly.I own and am planing on cruising my Rob Perry designed Islander 32. It has a Westerbeak 25 hrs . My engine manual doesn’t say anything about max engine RPM. My current prop is a 12/14 two blade. At full throttel the RPM is 3400. I’m not sure what my hull speed should be,the waterline is 25′, and I can’t look it up in my Cruisers Encyclopedia because I lent it out and havent gotten it back.I can get .4 gal per hour and about 5kts at 1800 RPM. Is this too low of a power setting for long periods. Do deisel do better at higher settings. Is it hard on them to run at higher settings, say 3000 RPMs for extended periods.It seems that power settings above 2600 dont produce higher boat speeds.Any thaught on all the above would be a great help. Thanks

I am struggling to form a view on the suitability of the CSY 44 (1980 vessel with longish keel, but cut away at front I believe) for offshore cruising with a 4’11" shoal draft. A Cruising World article of 1997 said that the shoal draft (deep is 6’6″) has a significantly reduced righting moment and recommended the deep keel for offshore. I am interested in: 1. Stability/righting moment (this is important to me) and 2. Sailing ability for world cruising–i.e. how much harder is the shoal keel, the impression I am getting is that it is not good for that sort of cruising–to the point of not being suitable at all? Many thanks

Dear Steve and Linda, I’ve been in the process of looking for a used boat to spend the next number of years sailing…everything from long offshore passages to time in the Caribbean. For many years, in the late 70’s and early 80’s, I built very traditional wooden boats, sailed mostly traditional boats.

While looking at a 31′ Camper Nicholson the other day, I spied an older Freedom 33′ Cat ketch. She was really beautiful, and I remembered how fascinated I was the boats when they were first introduced. I know that you and Linda have pushed the edges of innovation in designing and sailing offshore boats. What’s your opinion of the boat as an ocean passagemaker? Thanks for your opinion and a great web site. Sincerely, Michael

Hi, After reading your observations about cats for offshore cruising we have started to rethink the one-year Pacific cruise we have been planning for our family (three adults, two children 11-13 ) starting next July. Any views on a Macgregor 65 as an alternative to a 40ft cat? Being UK sailors we haven’t come across these boats over here. Are they as fast and as tough as their supporters claim? Any comments will be very much appreciated. Thanks for a great site. Hugh & Deb

We have a Stoboom on our Bristol sloop and I would like to keep and maintain it for some time to come. When we bought the boat several years ago, the sage wisdom from the people we spoke with was to ditch the Stoboom and go back to a conventional boom/sail rig.

We have got used to using the Stoboom and really would like to keep it in good shape. Any idea where we might find a source of parts for it? We have been unable to find anything on the Internet or by contacting Hood. Also concerned about eventual deterioration of the sail track over time. Thanks. – Roger

A rigging question: What make (I assume ProFurl) and model furler would you recommend for our big reacher? The little Hood unit that was on the boat has a nice small headfoil for minimal windage but marginal drum capacity even at 5/16″ line for this big sail? These Spectra sheets and halyards are great! Have you had any problems with knots (bowlines) failing? Ref. June Sail magazine article. Thanks, Kurt

Hi, I often sail my C & C 30 shorthanded. The current sail inventory has a big honker symmetrical spinnaker. I would like to move to a crusing spinnaker and wondered about the viability of recutting the existing spinnaker. Is this possible or even recommended? Thanks, Dave

Dear Linda and Steve: Two years ago I bought a steel kit form Bruce Roberts to build a voyager 495 (L.O.A. 49 ‘- 4") With a longish keel.

About one year ago I bought, directly from you, your book and CD “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia” which, by the way, is the book I’ve have learnt more from. Pity I didn’t have it before.

You totally convinced me with what you say about mains with big roach. Apart from the technical explanations, your comments about them are: "There is absolutely nothing you can do to an older cruising boat that will increase performance as much as one of these sails, regardless of how much you are prepared to spend."

You have (or at least had) 82% of the rectangle of the luff and foot filled with sail in your actual boat BEOWULF and add “We now realize that we can go farther, adding more horsepower for little cost.”

Exactly two days ago I contacted Bruce Roberts (he is the one who really knows my boat) to ask him to produce me a new sail plan with a main of the same characteristic as the one you had on BEOWULF.

I’ve just been in your web site, as I wanted to buy some more books from you, and you can imagine my surprise when I’ve seen that you have just got a new main and mizzen of considerably different design than the original sails.

I’m really worried now: Have you found anything wrong with them? Could you tell me anything about the new design of your sails? I suppose you are very busy but I would be terribly grateful if you could answer me as soon as possible (the cheque to Mr Roberts has already been sent and now I don’t know whether I have to cancel the order).

All the best, Jose

I have enjoyed your site very much for a long time. Into the Light (by Dave & Jaja Martin) has been "the book" for me. Both have been a major help in turning me from dreamer to setting the goals and schedules to make it come true. An amazing content of worthwhile reading from all authors.

My wife and I are contemplating a charter from Puerto Vallarta to Cabo San Lucas April 15-21 and the Captain has been straightforward in saying it will be an upwind and uncomfortable passage. He adds that it is only 300 miles. He has now departed Natal and will be out of touch for a time. We are left wondering about how long the actual passage might be. We are willing to endure a bash for a few days but wish to be up for enjoying Cabo to the fullest also. As we don’t personally know anyone to ask I thought maybe SetSail could help. Any advice or even general opinions will be greatly appreciated. Till my next order, Thanks, Everett

Hello Steve, I am planning a single-handed voyage to the Med. and a few years cruising there before a return through the Caribbean and am looking for advice on the ideal self-steering set up for such a trip. So far it seems that a wind vane plus a tiller pilot to assist for motoring is a good choice. This would work well offshore as it allows me to get some sleep in a situation (offshore) where going a little off course doesn’t matter too much. Sailing in the Med however requires more reliable course keeping and my question is whether or not the tillerpilot attached to the windvane will fill the auto pilot needs for this situation. I realize that there is a lot of motoring in the Med.in the summer but when it isn’t calm it is often blowing very hard and I am not sure that the tiller-pilot driving the vane will be up for this in the autopilot mode. I’d be most interested in your thoughts on this. Primary steering on the boat is a wheel. Regards, David

Dear Steve and Linda: Having discovered SetSail site, I want to tell you what a terrific boat you have designed in the Wind Horse. What I found particularly interesting is your break up with the dominant design rules of cruising power boats, e.g., trawlers.

While my limited budget allows me only to dream of Wind Horse, I am myself involved with pushing ahead my own dreams of ocean cruising. Having known your work, I have already given up my trawler-oriented mindset and I am rethinking the entire issue considering the canoe-like hull proposition you so beautifully materialised in Wind Horse.

Having said this, I’d like to know your comments on two points.

-according to the equation of displacement hull speed (1.2 times sqrt water level length in feet, am I correct?), a 85 feet-long boat could achieve a max speed of around 11 knots. But boats often go far beyond these limits, as are good examples your own designs. So, I confess I’m puzzled. Could you, please, shed some light on the issue?

-have you ever considered adding lifting hydrofoils to your designs (I think about Wind Horse) not, of course, to turn them into 60-knot-out-of-the-water rocket-boats, but to reduce their displacement and wetted area by say, 30%, so increasing speed & range? I think of hydrofoils added, say, to the keel and skegs, in order to compensate for, say, 30% of the vessel’s weight, or displacement, and adding to stability as a bonus benefit. Is this way wrong? If so, could you point the problems with it?

Thank you for your attention. Best regards, Francisco

Steve…Your recommendation to look at CAL 48 and CAL 46-2 was received. You stated though that you prefer aft cockpit. This does make sense. Some aft cockpit designs are better then others. Could you make recommendations for an aft cockpit design that I should be looking at in a used boat that has a long waterline as well as seaworthy? All your help is much appreciated in my quest for a used blue water boat. Corey

Thanks Steve, for the comments on teak decks. I am just about to make an offer on an 85 ft Formosa, and I know the decks will need doing in a few years, so I will adjust my offer. The other misgiving I have is the 9′ 6″ draft. I sailed half way round the world a few years ago, going East. This time I am going through the Panama Canal and then the Pacific–could you comment on the draft , please? John

I own a Morris 486 which is equipped with a fully battened mainsail and a 100% roller furling Genoa Each is about 500 ft in area. I am interested in getting more performance in light winds, and was considering either a larger Genoa (135%) or a G-0 gennaker. Any input regarding the pros and cons of each? Conard

When you get a chance could you please ask Steve what he thought of the Rocna anchor he bought after using it in Washington, Canada and Alaskan waters? Thanks, Dennis

Steve & Linda, thank you. I have read your books, kept up over the net, and most of all, have enjoyed your cumulative years of sailing wisdom. I singlehand a Columbia 50 and cruise the islands from Palm Beach, Fl. I have decided to install an anchor windlass and I am looking for suggestions. Ideal appeals to me but I am conservative as to the battery usage. Thank you, Dusko Bruer

Hello! First let me just say how much I appreciate your books, your designs and your web site. You really are unique!

We are starting to seriously think about "getting off"and I therefore have a lot of boat design features to sort out.

I hope you can help me with these two: Storm shutters. How did you deal with storm shutters on the Sundeer series? I think about the large windows in the hull and the "pilot house". Are storm shutters used or are the windows simply designed to be "storm proof"? Insubmersibility. What do you think about insubmersible boats, or modifying a boat (injecting foam in interior spaces that are not used for example) so that it becomes insubmersible? I have seen your comment on the Yacht Saver, but this seems like a costly and technically complex solution (just another thing that needs surveys and that will malfunction when it is needed). Another thing is the problems with large balloons inside the boat in a crisis situation. I hope you will take the time to answer these questions. With regards, Erik

Dear Steve & Linda, It was only yesterday that I was pointing BEOWULF out to some of my sailing students ( I’m a part-time instructor) as she came into Marina del Rey and backed into a berth at Cal YC; it prompted me to make a visit to the Ship’s Store and part with some $’s to purchase a copy of Practical Seamanship, in which I have had my nose firmly buried ever since. Thanks for creating such a practical, logical and well-written tome; it will help make me a better, more rounded sailor and instructor, and aid in passing on my knowledge and experience to the new converts of the fine art of sailing. Perhaps you might clear up a question I have. It seems that I read somewhere that BEOWULF has only 1 (one) thru-hull. Is this so? And if so, where can I find some info on how you managed to achieve this seemingly impossible feat? I must admit I have spent some time thinking about it and am somewhat baffled. I look forward to reading and owning some more of your titles in the future. Thanks, Paul G.

We cruised the Pacific for 5 years from LA to NZ, Japan & Aleutians with a standard s/s frame & Sunbrella soft dodger. Our boat is center cockpit, glass construction.

I’m looking for suggestions on materials and approach to getting a hard dodger built–and looking less ugly than most. A friend used 1/8″ ply with glass & epoxy on his s/s dodger frame but this core bends in only 1 direction and is hard to form-fit. I’m wondering if aluminum is a better choice.

I’d like an opening in the front but nothing hinged–more like a removable panel that can be swapped with a panel of standard dodger window material. Zippers can leak under pressure–so a zippered panel might not be the answer? Any suggestions appreciated.

Under your “Communications at Sea” section under SSB Ground Plane you recommend the referenced antenna due to it not requiring a ground plane. Unfortunately, the marine electronic installers in my area tell me they are not familiar with this type of antenna. For example, is it a simple whip antenna? If so, how long? Can you recommend a vendor that sells this product. Thank you. Downing