Could you…let me know what info should be included in a ship log, or send over an example? Lisa P.

I’m fascinated by your comments about Globalstar–do you think it’s a viable option for our cruise despite the company’s problems? I’m reluctant to buy a $1000 SSB modem if we can get satellite service instead…Best regards, Candace

Firstly, let me say how much I am enjoying your books, Mariner’s Weather Handbook and Surviving the Storm. For anyone with the slightest interest in the weather around them and in taking a boat to sea, they are excellent reading. However, I do have a couple of queries:

On page 340 of the ‘Mariner’s Weather Handbook’ you show three photographs of tropical revolving storms, when and where they should not be, one off Angola (West Africa) in April 1991 and two of one storm in the Eastern Mediterranean in January (no year mentioned). It is my understanding that no tropical revolving storms have ever been reported in the South Atlantic (until now) and that the sea temperatures in the Eastern Mediterranean in January are certainly not high enough for cyclogenesis nor is the ITCZ anywhere near the Mediterranean. Have you any explanation for these phenomena and/or a year for the Mediterranean storm (I would like to research past meteorological records to find what conditions actually existed in the latter case).

I look forward to your reply, Brent

We are planning to buy a SAGA 43 which is a very narrow boat, with a narrow bow. We have been told that the boat sails while at anchor. We were wondering if this is a problem simply because of the narrow width and bow, and if there is some way to counteract and rid ourselves of this problem by anchoring techniques, use of wind vane, use of a riding sail, etc. We know that the Deerfoot is a narrow boat and hoped that your experience with narrow hulls might put us on the right track. We would appreciate any suggestions you might have. Thank you. Sandy

(We just launched)…an Angelo Lavranos 43 (Barefoot) in British Columbia. It is unpainted. However, I was surprised to find a couple of deck leaks: One in an interior corner of a deck locker, one where the weld was apparently polished too far, and a burn-through where the genoa track flat bar is welded to the 3/16” deck plate. The builders are good welders so I was surprised by these. In your experience with unpainted aluminum boats have you seen this before on new boats? Regards, David

We just purchased an aluminum boat. It is primed and painted with bottom paint and reg on the top sides. It has about 7 anodes on it.

We have two choices to keep the boat this summer, one has steel docks constructed of steel drums held together with steel structure covered with wood. This is all held with steel chains. The other location has concrete main docks and aluminum finger docks.

The problem is we like the community at the first as the second is a municipal marina and has little charm.

I have read about electrolysis and all that stuff, I am planning to hand Zinc anodes over the side in either case.

What are your thoughts/suggestions? Thank you. Don

I am looking for designs for a steel yacht capable of worldwide cruising and being handled by a couple. Your ideas on yacht design seem to be the same as mine, particularly those regarding the priorities of equipment, safety, layout, engine rooms and cutting down on the fancy junk.

I am a naval architect and master mariner and am stuck in China for the next four years building a series of cargo ships and tankers. I would like to occupy my spare time by building a yacht for what I hope will be my imminent retirement after 35 years of building ships. Thus the requirement for a steel design.

In China there is high quality and cheap steel available but limited skills in welding, I also have all the cutting and bending equipment available to me. I am thinking of a design of 75 to 80 feet overall, this is I think the limit that can be handled by a small crew, my wife is not a great sailor in terms of usefulness on deck, otherwise brilliant but just ballast on deck. I liked what I can see of your Locura, I am conservative, I like Beowulf but the rig is new to me. I was thinking of a staysail schooner? I would much appreciate your advice, ideas, design suggestions or even a suggestion for a complete design to fit my requirements. Many thanks and best regards, Paul

I presently own a Furuno 1502 and would like to hook up with a modem (pactor) and a laptop, in order to be able to e-mail from the boat, providing I have a provider like Sea Mail. In your opinion, which is the most effectively equipped laptop to do the job, or how should this laptop be equipped for optimum performance? Please share this info with me before I purchase the wrong laptop. Thank you very much. I plan to sail the Caribbean this spring, so I am getting prepared. Regards, Peter

We have purchased a 1973 43′ Gulfstar Trawler which is in need of interior refurbishing. We are interested in cork or bamboo products for flooring and wall paneling. Would these products be acceptable for the marine environment? Thank you- Kathleen and Rufus

We love your book! Can you tell me more about the deadbolts you use to lock the hatch boards down? We have a Crealock 37 Yawl and would like to install these on our boat also. We have watched the video many, many times and learned so much. Thanks, D and M

Hello Steve,

This question may sound like I’m biting off more than I can chew, however my wife and I are fully committed to doing it anyway. The house is on the market and we’ve promised ourselves that we’ll give it at least one year before we make our minds up whether to keep sailing or return to landlubbers.

I am 41 year old, have almost no sailing experience other than going out on our local bay (Morton bay–Brisbane Australia) with friends on their mid 20ft day-sailers. This is where we (my wife and I ) intend to live aboard and learn to sail until I feel confident enough to coastal sail the 400 miles up to the Whitsunday Island group, and then offshore to the South Pacific Islands and beyond when we’re ready!

Just so you understand my reasoning in learning to sail this way, as opposed to getting a small kneel boat first, I wish to live aboard now, I have always found it easier and quicker for ME to learn by jumping in with both feet. I don’t learn easily in a structured environment, ie: sailing school, I enjoy a challenge. I quite often have people say to me after they get to know me "is there anything that you can’t do!" Some examples–I’ve built my own house from start to finish using no other trades except electrician, it is being sold as I write this for over half a million dollars (this is our cruising kitty) or rebuilding the Isuzu turbo diesel in my 4×4 campervan in remote central Australia when it split the skirting on a piston, I’d never worked on a diesel before.

I have just retired from 17 years as a professional motorcycle racer. This has taught me to trust my own judgment, recognise the difference between fear and danger, anticipate consequences and problems before they happen and never to let anxiety or fear cloud your judgment. As strange as it seems I think these qualities should be a good base from which to jump into the world of cruising. Oh and I grew up on a remote outback cattle station, so being isolated and self reliant is second nature to me.

Ok, now you’re probably thinking this guys got a couple of kangaroo’s loose in the top paddock.

Here’s what I am thinking:
Spending a total of about $150,000 AUS (this will leave us with 2 rental houses debt free for income )
A steel, aluminum or cold moulded wood boat (no doubt I’ll run aground while I’m learning) with a good size engine to pull us off a lee shore while learning too.
34-38 ft ( although my 24 year old cousin who has been the youngest captain ever to do the Sydney to Hobart races including the 1998 storm when he was just 19, says get a 40+ ft boat as it won’t be any harder to learn to sail than the smaller boat and be much better to live aboard)

After reading your sensational OFFSHORE CRUISING ENCYCLOPEDIA, on page 1123 HIO AVAE a Santana 37, I would be very interested on what you would think of this for our first boat?

I guess my biggest question is, should I buy a smaller coastal cruiser and then in a couple of years buy a bigger offshore blue water boat or put up with the inconveniences of a bigger blue water boat while we learn coastal cruising ( I am assuming that it would take at least a year to learn to sail any new boat to its full potential, so selling a coastal cruiser in couple of years then learning a new bigger blue water boat may be counter productive?

Should it be a more traditional design with heavy displacement, full keel etc. which will cope more easily with my mistakes while I’m learning or a boat with a fin keel canoe shaped hull that you favour?

I will probably have my cousin help in choosing from a short list of half-dozen boats the final boat, as he will have a better understanding of a good layout for systems on deck and living under deck.

Regards Peter

Hi Steve, Thanks for the your great books! I have a 46-foot Catamaran “Wild Cat” and sailed south from Newport, CA on Dec 1st. I am still in Pardise Marina in Puerto Vallarta. I am trying to find the best route from the San Blas Islands, Panama to the USVI. I plan to be through the canal by March 1st. I would like to sail across as “high” as Puerto Rico’s eastern coast, but fear this may be to sailing to high to the prevailing wind, waves and current. As an alternative, I was thinking of sailing further NW to the Mona Passage between NW Puerto Rico and Domican Republic and go around the top of PR.

Steve, do you have any suggestions on what I might expect and the best route for crossing the Caribbean to the USVI, without having to go even further NW to Jamaica and around Haiti? Thank you for any insight you can offer. Hope to see you guys in the Caribbean. We met in Catalina a few years ago. Best Regards Frank & Tina

I am spellbound by the thought of going cruising one day, when and if shore life doesn’t satisfy me anymore, and when and if I can nail down someone who can tell me just how much cruising, including insurance, really costs. And, so I have been browsing the Internet in search of the answers to the questions: why, when, how much, what boat, how safe . . . .

The latest question I ponder is what work might be available along the way, and I hear diesel and refrigeration mechanics can work anytime, anywhere. However, being an engineer who knows about engines and other machines, but who has not practiced machine repair, I wonder what can a peripatetic mechanic do in the bowels of a boat, other than normal, routine preventative maintenance I suspect many sailors perform for money-saving reasons. Just what tasks related to machines and systems are sailors willing to pay for?! Regards, Craig.

I am a new boater. My wife & I cruise the coastal US. & rivers off & on throughout the year. Needless to say, there has been much to learn. Can you recommend an easy to understand & basic book regarding the weather & boating?

Hi SS–Seems to me a transponder is THE way to be seen by other ships. Can these be fitted legally in the South Pacific? Are there competing manufacturers? Andrew

Have you done any articles or do you have any information available on the cleaning and greasing of winches? Our particular problem is how to remove the top of self-tailing winches so as to get access to the spindle to remove the drum assembly. Any helpful hints would be appreciated. Thank you, JP

I got the Offshore Cruising Book and I really enjoy it but it didn’t say much about inverters–Any recommendations (for a) 48-foot alum.boat, 800 amp. hrs.? Thank you, Dale

I would like to see information for first time participants on rallies, races and regattas. I went on the NARC Rally thinking it was about safety and found myself in 30-35 kt. winds with gusts even higher. There was no reliable weather information after the weather briefing in Newport and trusted the coordinator to keep us safe and informed. We ended up calling the weather coordinator on our Gobalstar because he had no way of keeping updated on the weather. I would like to know what questions I should ask IF I EVER DO THAT AGAIN. What I should look for in a coordinator to judge the safety of the operation.

You mention more than once in (your) books how pleased (you are) with your barograph. Some probably don’t handle the motion of a sailboat very well. Which one (do you) recommend? Thanks, Neal

New Wx book a bargain at twice the price. I am reading it for the third time. Do you know where I can download (from the web) wx fax for south pacific? I have friends at 16S 155W headed for Australia. I would like to watch their weather, but cannot find any source for that area. Any help will be appreciated. Best, Jamie

Hi again. We are in the process of installing a diesel engine in our Mirage. All was going according to plan, until a fellow boater mentioned crabbing, and warned us that placement of the prop is critical. If not offset, the boat will ‘crab’, worse in reverse, than in forward. Next Saturday, the hole is being cut through the hull. I’ve had a look through the Encyclopedia, but can’t find much about proper placement of the shaft/prop, and although many of my boating friends have heard of it, no one can elaborate. I’ve looked at the last few boats in the area that are still out of the water, and find that the shaft is placed dead-centre. Do you have any advice, or do you have a publication that explains the concept? Your help is appreciated. Jim from Canada

Dear Steve: A question if I may, in regards the suitability of the "Bruce Roberts designed Spray 40" (Joshua Slocum) for coastal and world cruising? Since I know more about lock & key’s I cannot cross-reference the design style to other brands your Q & A page refers to. I have just received your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia as an ideal Christmas gift, which is how I come to visit your site. We have already taken our 12-year plan and crunched it into an "ASAP" plan as a result of a sad loss, and I have elected to take some advice given out on your site by joining a local race club, which leads myself to second question if I can push my luck. Can a person who knows more about lock & key’s, and has no sailing experience at the age of 45, safely pursue a circumnavigation dream with a family? With Thanks, David

Hello from Andrew and Sue on MYSTIC. Just in case you cannot recall the boat, it is a 52ft aluminum "Shark 50" with a 7.3ft draft & relatively light displacement. It has been awhile since we last saw you in Bequia–at the time you said if we ever needed any help to get in touch, so here goes. Sue has decided she would rather be fixing up an old house than sailing so we are planning on putting MYSTIC up for sale. We were already planning to spend the winter in Annapolis and so are planning at least initially to put her up for sale there. Our basic questions come out of the fact that MYSTIC is fairly unique, we are not sure what she is worth, where is the best place to sell her, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Andrew and Sue on MYSTIC

Steve: I am a novice sailor hoping to buy my first boat this spring. I will be lake sailing for now; however, I am contemplating a relocation to the Gulf Coast of Florida. I have been considering a new Hunter 260, primarily for weekending, and because the size seems manageable. My questions are, what size do you think is appropriate to learn basic sailing skills; and whether you think that I would be better off with an older and longer boat to start out with. I read in some of the FAQs that you recommend mid to late ’60’s and early ’70’s CCA and IOR designs. What boats specifically do you recommend? I am sure that I could get much more waterline in an older boat, than I will for what the H260 costs brand new. Any ideas? Thank you. David

Hi Steve, I’m ordering a #4 for my J120 which I intend to sail from the Caribbean back to the States this spring. The boat is set up for roller furling on the headstay.

My question: Does it make any sense to put reinforcement in the #4 so it can be rolled up to storm jib size? I do have a storm jib, but think it would be easier to set the trysail and the #4 when the wind gets over 25 knots, and progressively roll up the #4 as the wind builds. Easier — but impractical?

I’d be most interested in your comments. Love your books (I’ve got ’em all). Cheers, David

Steve, I’m looking at a Hardin 45 Ketch. It has two deck stepped masts. Would you consider that a trait that would be suitable for an offshore vessel? Know anything about these vessels? Les

Aerorig recently sent a request to Steve Dashew for a comment on AeroRig generally and how it worked on Sundeer:

Hi Steve, In Surviving the Storm you suggest that yachts under 40 feet will find that they should set the trysail instead of a second reef when the wind gets into the upper 20-knot range. You also suggest that a small trysail is needed for really heavy air. Is this a contradiction? And can it be resolved by using a reefing trysail? I know Donald Street advocated this and I see that the Pardeys used a reefing trysail in their recent trip around the Horn. But apart from these two examples I’ve never seen reference to reefing trysails in any of the literature. What are the pros and cons of reefing trysails in your view? Love your books, David

Mr. and Mrs. Dashew,

I am in the process of reading both your Encyclopedia and Storm Survival books (I keep flipping back and forth between them). Not only am I extremely impressed with both of the books but with the two of you and your long and successful marriage. In the end this of course will be your greatest accomplishment.

I am 52 years old and don’t have the greatest of hearts. I have sailed for many years and have decided that it should be possible to equip a boat intelligently for single-handed long distance passagemaking (even if that means sailing primarily in the Trades). My purchase will be in the 32-33 ft. range as that is about the largest size that I can afford to equip to a very high standard. By high standard I mean the very best of the basics done in the best way, not fancy systems that might add more complexity than I could manage. I want a simple but bulletproof proper passagemaker.

My question is in the area of sail selection. I realize that you are a big fan of cutter rigs, and I agree with you, but one of my favorite boats is the Hallberg-Rassy 31 Monson which doesn’t have a foretriangle that is suitable for a second stay. If I am equipping a sloop I would be very interested in your recommendation for sails in order of priority. I would like to have a furling sail on the forestay that can handle most conditions and so that I am only going to the bow in light conditions to bring down the furling jib to put up a light air genoa or to put up a second jib for down wind sailing. In very heavy weather I imagine that it will be a case of following your active tactics until I need a rest at which I would heave to or deploy a Jordan rig off the transom.

I am sorry for the long and involved post but I wanted to give you some background and some of my current ideas if it will help you with your deliberation.

Thank you very much in advance, David

Dear Dashews: I saw your ad for the Beowulf in Latitude 38. I fell in love. Can’t afford it quite yet but am vigorously trying. Been a fond admirer of your work since seeing one of your designs tied up in Emeryville. The couple had been cruising for almost a year. I would like to become an expert sailor. Currently I have only limited experience in the SF bay and Caribbean. Is there a route of training you recommend, or is there a school you might suggest? Of course these would be in addition to your books which I will purchase. Your ideas would be most appreciated. Best regards, Eric.

In your (absolutely fabulous!) Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, you talk on page 46 about using a “Fortress to back up the Bruce in a hurricane” Would you link the Fortress to the Bruce via a chain trace? if so, what sort of length would you use? or would you run the Fortress on a completely separate chain back to the bow (with the risk of the chains winding around one another)? This is important to me because we have both anchors, plus a delta on our Fisher 32, and may be going into the tropics next year. Whilst we would aim not to be there in the cyclone season, I won’t go until I know what to do if we get one!

I will be very grateful for your suggestions. Best regards, Stuart

Dear Steve, It has been while since I last connected with you–in fact it was 2000 prior to the Bermuda race. By the way, INTERMEZZO now FUERA did quite well. In any case the reason why I am writing to you is because I am now working with Bill Tripp Jr. to figure out the true history and facts on how to bring her back to her original state. I thought you might be able to help me separate history from folklore–fact from fiction. I am not sure if she was a ketch or a yawl, you reference in one of your books that she was a ketch, but we are not sure. Do you have any before pictures that you could share with me? Many people who think they are in the know think that she was hull number one. We are convinced that the bow sprit was not part of the original sail plan. Any help sorting any of this out would be very much appreciated. Best regards, Fred

We have a Snuffer on our Gennaker. What is the proper process for snuffing when the wind is strong? It’s tough to get the snuffer to collapse the sail.

Dear Steve and Linda: Have your Encyclopedia and am now on my second reading to really start nailing down the key points you make…what a great book…couple of quickies I have now…Do you navigate with GPs with celestial as backup? Thanks, Richard

Steve – It’s finally time to take our Deerfoot 61/63 out the St. Lawrence from Chicago to Maine for the summer, then the Caribbean for the winter and the Med for the following summer. I have a question regarding anchors. I have a 105lb CQR that works well but needs replacing, as the point has rusted through. I am considering the purchase of the following: 105lb CQR, 140lb CQR, 110lb Bruce, or 110lb Claw (Bruce knockoff). Which would you recommend? In particular, have you gotten any feedback on the Simpson Lawrence Claw anchors? They typically are priced less than 50% of the same size Bruce. (FYI, I also have a Fortress FX85 and a 100lb Paul Luke fisherman anchor as backups.) Thanks in advance, Mike

Steve, First let me say I have appreciated the wealth of information in your books and website. Thanks!

In considering an aluminum hull for use primarily in the tropics and temperate zones, I was intrigued by your reference that on Beowulf you chose to use no insulation. You reference careful attention to the head and hull liners. Was there any attempt to provide insulation via the head and hull liners or did you just eliminate the insulation that would have otherwise been used and use standard liner materials? Also, you reference the reveals between the liner panels to promote ventilation between the liner and deck. Did you use a specific % of open space design spec, or just go more with looks? Given your experience in the tropics, would you go this route again, or use insulation? Anything else to consider if choosing to use no insulation?

Thanks for sharing your insights. David

Steve, I have a chance to pick up a 53′ Ferro cement sail boat. It needs to be finished out with masts, paint etc. Do you have any input in the Ferro cement design. It was built in Alaska, nice lines and quality hard ware, new Volvo engine, all oak inside. I can not see any rust leaking through the cement, it is in a boat yard and has been there for 10 years. It has not sailed. Please give some input if possible. Cheers, Spike

Hi Steve, Firstly thanks for the books, most of which are bending my shelves. I am looking for my first bluewater cruiser (second hand) and am paralyzed by the conflicting hull material shortcoming. You extol aluminum but here in Australia they are expensive and few and far between ( I would love one however). Steel rusts like mad but is good for offshore can be fixed in far flung places and its integrity is sound up to the last minute before failure. GRP is very common but I understand on boats 10–20 years of age osmosis is common in about 60% of cases. Since I, like most people, need to be able to sell the boat at some stage to recover some funds, what is your advice? My view at present is I cannot trust GRP as I cannot be certain of the build quality in a second hand boat even with a survey. So using that logic steel appears to be my main option as what you see is what you get. Am I over petrified about GRP? Best Regards, Martin

Ladies / Gentlemen, I am writing to you because I read where you were a proponent of balsa cored laminate hull construction techniques and have employed balsa coring in the hull construction of some of your boats.

I am considering buying a used cruising sailboat to liveaboard. It is a Bruce Roberts designed 36, pilothouse / cutaway full keel ketch, constructed in 1981, and has a fiberglass hull cored with balsa.

It is not my first boat. I have previously owned a 34 foot skipjack ketch, and a 32 foot Al Mason designed steel sloop, which I lived aboard for two years.

I have searched around the Internet, fruitlessly, for articles or information about balsa cored hulls (except for the Baltek Corp. site–very informative about new technologies). Therefore, could you please direct me to sources for information on evaluating balsa core constructed hulls? Also, the boat is moored in the Ft. Pierce, Florida area. Could you recommend a competent marine surveyor in that area who could conduct a survey of the vessel for me? I am reluctant to just choose any accredited surveyor and not get someone who knows what to look for in evaluating balsa core composite hull construction.

I don’t want to buy a water logged boat. The Baltek site claims that end grain balsa has a closed cell structure and, therefore, very little permeability, even after being submerged for long periods, and covered by fiberglass gelcoat subject to seepage–based on a 14 year test they conducted.

I plan on having the boat hauled for inspection, as part of a pre purchase survey, but am reluctant to start drilling holes in someone else’s’ hull when I’m not even sure of what I would be looking for; spongy? A certain sound when banged against? Also, I am in Louisiana. Before going to the expense of going all the way to Florida, I’d like ask more informed questions of the owners, regarding construction details of the hull laminate process.

Any thoughts you might share with me on the subject would be appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration. By the way, your boats, and the design logic underlying them, are brilliantly conceived. Sincerely, Ed

Greetings! I have been doing alot of reading lately, specifically your Surviving the Storm and the latest Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia books. Excellent pieces of work by the way! I came across a piece of information that puzzled me but I figured it was just a typo. But more recently I came across it again in your FAQ on setsail.com. Specifically, the reference is to the fact that a dipole antenna is superior to a long wire (i.e. insulated backstay). I’m confused about the reference to a dipole giving 8 times the output compared to a longwire. A normal simple dipole antenna has a gain of 3db which results in twice the output not 8 times. Also, the dipole is directional with fairly deep null areas off the ends of the antenna so the 3db gain figure is only really true relative to a point broadside to the antenna. If you really know of a dipole configuration with an 8x advantage (that would be a gain of 9db) please let me know. I currently use a whip for marine SSB and an insulated backstay for the ham rig. Some more gain over the unity gain solutions will be greatly appreciated. Also, thanks for the info on the WH Autopilot. You sold me, I will be ordering one very soon! Smooth Sailing!–Doug Dotson

I BOUGHT A YACHT WITH MOLD INSIDE ON MOST HULL SURFACES WHICH WE HAVE SANDBLASTED. I HAVE CHECKED MANY SOURCES FOR RECOMMENDATIONS. HAVE RECEIVED MANY FROM SPRAY BENZALCONIUM CHLORIDE TO GLACIC ACETIC ACID AND ALCOHOL TO PLAIN CHLORINE BLEACH SPRAY. DO YOU OR ANY ONE HAVE AND RECOMMENDATIONS OR SULUTIONS? FRED

We are about 1/3 of the way through a refit of our Westsail 42 “Heartland” and are now beginning to think about what type of material to use on the dinette and saloon cushions. Ironically we have come across a quantity of leather for a great price but are reluctant to buy. Can you shed any light on how leather would hold up to the marine envirnoment? Thank Your Time, John & Deanna

PS: You Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia has proven invaluable during our refit.

I am currently reading your book Surviving the Storm. In the personal safety gear section you do not mention or opine on the harness PFD combination. What are your thoughts on this product? Dwayne C

Got your books, got your videos, got one question.

I am looking at importing a boat into Canada, BC to be exact. What I am wondering about is, I NEVER see articles or otherwise written on registration issues. If I bring a boat into Canada for example that is not built in the USA or Canada. I am subject to 9.5% duty (if it’s a French built boat), and 7% Provincial sales tax. and 7% G.S.T. This is based on the appraised value of the boat. I see boats registered in The Grand Cayman’s, Bermuda, and other offshore places and I am sure that the owners are Canadians. If I buy a boat in the USA and leave it there I don’t pay Canadian Taxes but I cannot sail it in Canadian waters. Is their such a thing as an offshore registered boat that I can sail in Canadian waters as a Canadian without having to pay all the duty etc. Thanks, any information would be appreciated. An Avid fan, Gord

Hi guys, I have loved reading your articles and have picked up some good tips. Information I'm after is regardinga 240v fridge-freezer on boats. I am currently building a 50ft powercat – long, light and low-powered – in Australia, and want around 250 liters of fridge and 100 liters of freeze. I have had small 12v fridg- freezer in past boats and while they were great , the bigger setup seems to be a bit cost prohibitive. This boat won't be attached to shore power and I didn't really want to have a genset on board. I have seen high output alternators, great while moving but don't really want to have to run motors just to charge batteries if on the hook for a week. I do plan on having 4 X 100 watt panels to help things allong. Can domestic refrigeration be a viable alternative or should I stay with the way expensive 12v? Any advice would be appreciated

A backup to my previous question, this boat CSY 37 has a V drive trans. giving it’s more complicated arrangement than a strait drive, are these prone to problems?? Thanks again Jim

How do you “equalize” Gel cell batteries?——RJB

I’ve currently retrofitted my Cal39 with a Link20 battery monitor, 100amp hr. alternator and the next natural progression for my DC electrical management system is to upgrade my battery system. I in the process of installing two 320 amp hr. 6 volt batteries hooked in parallel to augment my electrical system.

My question is: The size of these 6 volt batteries warrants the proper installation into a locker in my aft cabin. I’m concerned about the presence of corrosive hydrogen sulfide (?) vapors off-gassing (during charging) into a living space. Should I install a vent to ventilate the locker? The existing locker does have “secure” cover as well as a cushion over the top of the locker…Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Kevin S.

Re sailing to Bermuda, what’s the best weatherfax station for the trip–New Orleans? And for Bermuda–Newport, is it the Boston station? Anything we need to worry about weatherwise for the Virgin Gorda–Bermuda run or is it pretty straightforward this time of year? As for Bermuda–Newport, I am basically terrified and am quite tempted by American Airlines. This, from someone who’s sailed 5800 miles, now! There’s no reforming a worrier…

Dear Sailors:Last summer, I was reefing the sail, had my hand on my aluminum mast, and a thunderstorm that was a mile away sent an invisible charge my way and gave me quite a shock with a boom that I think was caused by the main bolt hitting a nearby ridge. What are the odds of getting a strong bolt through the mast? What will occur? We were sailing down in the Keys last month, and a lightning bolt hit a sailboat mast while the boat was on the trailer, out of the water. The mast glowed red for five minutes. I can’t find any information on this subject. Does a lightning bolt destroy radios? Can it hurt the hull? Best regards, Chris

Where can I find weather faxes for the Caribbean on the Internet?

I am thinking of changing my fixed three-bladed prop for something that causes less drag. The Autoprop from Brunton’s Propellers seems very interesting. What do you know about it? P.S. Your Encyclopedia is a fantastic source of knowledge!

Dear Steve and Linda, At the end of summer 2004 I plan to leave on an extended cruise/possible circumnavigation on a 25-foot Hunter. It’s an older version, around 1984 or so, with the solid keel at four feet draft and not the plastic trailerable type hunters of today. God willing, I will sail from Lake Erie to the Atlantic, through the Erie Canal and Hudson River, through the Intra-coastal down to the Keys, and eventually through the Panama Canal into the South Pacific. My question is one of concern for the seaworthiness of the boat. She handles lake conditions well but I fear her light displacement might cause some due risk if ever caught in severe open ocean weather. I am 28 and hold a Captain’s License for unlimited tonnage and have long since looked at righting moments and different load plans for the trip. I was hoping you could provide some experienced insight and opinion on whether or not this particular boat may be considered a safe passage maker. Thank you very much for your time. – Gunar

Sir, I am considering the purchase of a 1992 Beneteau Oceanis 440. My ideal boat would be around 38-40 ft., but since the 440 appears to be offered at a substantial discount, both the longer waterline and the extra budget room for refit attract me.

I am keen on performance, and the 440's hull is the same of its First 45S5 sister, both designed by Farr. I don't like the high centre of gravity of the boat, and consider changing the keel (currently 1.7 m) to a deeper, lead-bulbed one, as the draft on a similar size performance boat would easily reach 2.2-2.5 m. Later on, I will upgrade the rig. I understand the boat is capable of handling the extra loads.

My question is: Would you recommend such an operation? In other words, is it worth the trouble? I reckon the keel upgrade can be achieved with a budget of circa Usd 5000, because a preventive anti-osmosis treatment already is getting me close to the keel base, thus I am only counting the cost of the new keel and installation. However, especially for lighter wings I presume only a larger sail area will make a substantial performance change over present, and on a boat of this size I assume I will get pretty close to Usd 13000-15000 for a new bigger rig.

With best regards, Murat

I’m currently stationed out in Hawaii and own a Lancer 30-5. I was thinking of sailing her to my next duty station in San Diego. I was wondering if you had any insight on that particular boat.–Brent

Hi, I’ve just purchased a 1975 Westerly Centaur (and yes, I don’t plan on getting anywhere quickly). The boat has its original rigging including a roller-reefing boom. I would like to employ some sort of basic slab reefing type approach, but there are no reef hooks and there doesn’t appear to be an blocks on the stern end of the boom for running lines to the clew of each reef. Can I just mount all of this on the present boom and run appropriate lines? If I can mount such hardware, would I rivet it onto the boom? Or do I need to think about a new boom (I really don’t want to buy a new boom). Thanks! – Arthur

Steve, I kept your 2 big books (Cruising Encyclopedia and Weather book) on the shelf, frankly afraid of them: they are so big, they intimidated meÉ So I kept reading smaller, easier to finish books for the past 3 years. Finally I gathered the courage to open your cruising encyclopedia and now I canÕt put it down: I donÕt even play spades on the computer anymore.

The fact is that I closed today on my first "big boat", is a 1989 Hylas 44, called Delta Tango, soon to be named "Alegria". I stopped working (or maybe my companyÕs business decided to slow down to the point that it stopped me) and plan to prepare to sail with her (my wife and Alegria) for the rest. Will shake down to Bermuda and BVI, afterwards going anywhere but including Alaska, Hawaii, Palmyra, Tonga, Tahiti, Western Europe, etc. I am 54, have some time to cruise, hopefully. Your book provides me with a lot of info that I intend to use to equip, improve and secure her. Your first advice in the book (donÕt start buying things and changing them around until you sailed for a while) is great advice. But hard to follow by someone like me who is always trying to improve things (and people, just ask my wife and kids!).

I called Hood and they prepared an estimate on a Vektron Main, reacher, stay sail and storm main. Initially I thought on getting the main (full batten, 5 of them), to go over the back stay, then I chicken out, now I am back on the first idea, making it elliptical, overlapping the back stay by some 8 inches. If it chafes, I guess I can cut it down to regular size. This is not a particulary fast boat, so I need all the sail I can get. I talked to the riggers at Nance & Ubderwood to build the baby stay and runners. Thank you for any advice you can give me. Regards, Pablo

Dear sirs: I’m interested in purchasing a Sundeer 60 and have seen this AeroRig system advertised in one model. Can I have some comments as to the efficiency of this seemingly very simple rig on offshore conditions? Heavy conditions? Your help will be greatly appreciated.–H.J.Argeles, MD

Steve I’m getting a new Beneteau Oceanis 473 early next year. I’m having a Dyneema inner forestay fitted with a tensioner for a storm jib. My questions are: 1) How big should it be? The Main is 43 sq m, The Genoa is 60 sq m, (J=5.51m, I= 16.40m, P=14.45m, e=5.21m). Is there a basic rule to follow? 2) I’ve had a suggestion that I should get a reefable working jib that I could use in intermediate (5-6?) conditions providing a better shape than a rolled Genoa, which would reef down to a storm jib size for heavier conditions. Is this a viable/sensible suggestion? Thanks Nigel

Dear Linda & Steve, Thanks for your really interesting Weather Handbook, which we began reading. It will certainly take some time…Together with our local sailmaker we are constructing an extra-roached mainsail, which will be ready in spring (this is not California). However, he did not know where to get UHMW fabric to protect this sail from chafe. Can you give us some help, maybe another name for that or a company which sells this stuff in the old world? Many thanks in advance.

Dear SetSail, Can you recommend a good "cruise and learn" course that my husband and I could take with our two children, ages 12 and 8, this summer? We live in Massachusetts, but were thinking of exploring a new area like the Pacific NW. However, we are open to any area. Thank you. Sincerely, Andrea

Most catalogs show drogue requirements are based on size/length of the boat. We have an 8,000 lb., 36-foot catamaran. Wouldn’t the weight be more of a factor than the length in determining the proper size? -Roger

Steve, Thank you for responding so fast to my e-mail. I have many questions which seem to be answered several different ways by as many people. It is always a pleasure to have some one like yourself to give input. I still am interested in a boat, I thought a motorsailer since I will be in Alaska most the time. But several people have been talking against them if one was ever to truly sail in the open ocean, small on deck structures etc is preferred as to a pilot house. Although I have found the open ocean, hundred miles off shore to be calmer in the long run than the inshore tides etc… (I have skipped tugs across the gulf of Alaska several times). I anxiously await your response. Cheers, Spike

I am considering our next major cruise from NZ/Oz up through the Red Sea, and our charging/motoring/fuel strategy. I have calculated that we get about 1 mile/liter at our normal cruising speed, possibly a bit more. This gives us about 1200 miles with current fuel capacity. Across the Pacific we pretty much motored all the way to Galapagos–no wind. Sailed all the way to Marquee’s, but then motored all the way to Tahiti, and got low on fuel and had to reload from a ship in the Tuamotus, which was very messy and expensive. So I am investigating how to get some more capacity. Ideas:

Glass a tank in on the port side of the lazarette. The area is hard to get at anyway so won’t be too much of a loss.

Glass a tank in on the stbd side behind the current tank in that ‘dead’ area below the compass/steering box.

I reckon, without actually measuring the boat as we are currently skiing in South Island (life’s tough, eh), I guess I could add about another 300+ miles. Which would have life a lot easier in the Tuomotus, for example.

I KNOW ITS MORE WEIGHT!!!! but do you have any other ideas?

I am also considering swapping my homebuilt DC generator for the Balmar, with watermaker add-on. Is this what you have? How does it work out? The literature says it will set its own speed/charge rate, how does that work out?

Also our batteries are getting real bad and I’ll probably change them, did you go for the lead acid Tudors as we have, or the more sophisticated dry cell ‘I can’t remember what they are but not gel type or lead/acid’ new types.

Any advice gratefully received–and probably written about, we start a ‘Masterclass’ series for YW in October!

Hope cruising is going well–Regards, Brian