I am trying to locate a contact number/E-mail/website for the Paul Luke large aluminum cowls you mention in the cruising encyclopedia. Grateful if you could assist.–Andrew

I own a Cal 34 III and would like to know what physical measurements I need to provide to my sailmaker to determine the maximum mainsail roach I can put on my sloop.

Hello, Thanks for your excellent books and CDs. We have purchased your Encyclopedia and CD but have not gotten off cruising to the Carribe yet. Soon though.

In following your recommendations on anchoring, (we purchased a 65 lb Spade Anchor and will back it up with 200 feet of ACCO 3/8s Chain with oversized links on each – and following your admonition it must be the right size as our dockmates have laughed at the size we bought), but we had a question as to what shackle you are using with your system. We want to insure that our shackle will not be the weakest part of our system. Can you advise the maker and size of shackles in use on your boat? Ed & Sue

Hydraulic motors. You mention the problems with running your anchor windlass, the need for large wire size to minimize voltage drop on the long run to the bow. Why not power the windlass with a hydraulic motor? You already have a pump onboard for the auto pilot, even adding an additional pump would provide some redundancy for the autopilot system. Now all you need is a tiny motor and a couple skinny (1/4 in od) lines running up to the bow. These motors are robust, simple, easily speed and overload controlled, corrosion resistant (I own a chemical plant, believe me I know about corrosion!), very lightweight… I first saw these used at a plant in Norway. All the agitators drive motors (probably 10 total) were run by a single hydraulic drive pump. Speaking of multiple motors, how about that big power winch you use on Beowulf? Slap a hydraulic motor on that thing too and get rid of the need for a 24 volt electric system all together!

Hello from New Zealand, We are a 40ft aluminium sailboat called Wyndeavor. We’ve sailed from the Pacific Northwest to New Zealand with our two kids and have recently put our boat on the market. The paint on our boat was chipping terribly so we decided to go with bare aluminium in order to help the boat sell (low maintenance). We recently had the boat sandblasted and are not too happy with the outcome. We have covered most of the deck with a nonskid product (Treadgrip) but the rest of the deck and hull to the waterline are bare. The bare aluminium is very rough and our feet and fingers leave marks. We understand that you have a lot of experience dealing with aluminium so we were wondering if you had any advice regarding these issues. Should we sand the decks? Will it get better as the boat oxidizes? Should we just leave it be? Can you help? Regards, Kelly

Hi, I am planning a circumnavigation and am in the process of buying the appropriate boat as large as possible for two to handle. At the moment it looks like an X-562 will fit our needs fine. It can be delivered with a 2.8m draft and a 2.5m draft. I am going North Europe-Canaries, West Indies, Galapagos, Fiji, NZ, Australia, India, Red Sea. Can you give me an indication of the draft which in your opinion allows us to go the most nice places on the route?

I have a Rasmus 35 and I am having problems with the toerail being loose from its screws…and am finding it difficult to extract the loose screws…any suggestions?

Hello Steve, We have an Aluminum boat and we’re in the midst of denuding the deck of fairing compound. With no anti-skid, what do you think are the best deck shoes to use to minimize the chance of careening overboard in heavy weather.

Thanks for the help. Edward

What is a web site that I can find out info on the offshore communications system that you use. The Trimble web site is not very enlightening about the Sat C system and has nothing about prices. Any info appreciated.

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers,solenoids etc. I can’t find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me? – Nathan

Steve, I’ve got a question about the combination clothes washer/dryer you show in the Beowulf video. Is it vented or not? And how happy are you with its performance? Would you recommend it? Thanks, Kyle, Colorado Springs, CO

My dream has been to make a passage across the Atlantic and some extended cruising. Over the years this has been out of the realm of possibility because, well, I couldn’t afford more than a used sunfish (hard to sleep on and no head). Well, now I have been given a Tylercraft T26 it’s a fairly heavy 26′ 2" 4-foot draft iron keel boat. It was built in 1975 and the standing rigging was replaced 7-8 years ago. In the electronics dept it’s well equipped (radar etc.). I’m going to have to rework the cabin and have looked at improving it’s seaworthiness ( decreasing cockpit volume increasing scupper volume etc.) Do you have any thoughts on a boat of this size and blue water sailing with the caveat that I would carefully plan routes, seasons, to pick the best times and latitudes to travel? Thanks! Nathan F.

One day I would like to own a BEOWULF class boat, but in the meantime do you have any info on the music that is played on the BEOWULF video–would like to purchase–thanks-JIM

I am a landlubber in Indiana who would like to find a boat to crew on for a month or 2 in the South Pacific. I would pay for the experience. Any suggestions for locating a boat that would take on an inexperienced crew member? Thanks, Jeff

Hi Linda and Steve, We are having currently 6 x 8D as the house battery, and we are about to upgrade to some more serious batteries. The new batteries will weight approx. 1600 pounds and will not fit in the old spot. The current batteries are about midship and about 1 foot in from starboard (not the best place you would think). We have space right after the engine room, right on the center of the boat. beam-wise we would move only a few feets, but length-wise we would shift a lot of weight (800 pounds) about 15 feet further aft. Now…we are talking about a 35-metric-ton 60-foot boat here, so in my opinion it should not make too much a difference, but I would be really interested in your opinion. Thank you for your help, Thomas

I have a catamaran and the water tanks are about 6′ long with several baffles to limit surging. There is only one access hatch on each tank at the aft end. There is now quite a lot of white scummy film lightly sticking to the sides and bottom. Although we don’t drink the tank water and only use it for washing, is there any way to (chemically) clean the tanks as I can’t physically reach most of the tanks surfaces to scrub them–recommendations on chemicals? The boat is based in Turkey.

Steve: In the section on engine exhaust systems in your Cruising Encyclopedia you indicate that the exhaust hose should be suspended on flexible mounts to limit noise transmission. In fact, there is a photo of that arrangement that shows a bracket that is hose-clamped to the exhaust hose. Is this bracket available as a stock part anywhere, or did you have it fabricated for BEOWULF? Thanks and best regards, Scott S

Hi Steve, We have a 50′ aluminum ketch (1978 French design) here in Seattle. We’re leaving for our next trip in 18 months ( the first trip was a 5-year circumnavigation) and are trying to decide whether to pay the money now to repaint the bottom with a TBT paint at very high cost or wait until Mexico. What do you think is the best long-term plan for antifouling?

Hi. I have purchased and completely read Mariner’s Weather Handbook, and now I am reading Surviving the Storm. I would like to take a stab at weather prediction, say for my own area (Detroit, MI) as a way to build the skills you suggest are necessary to make the best possible passages. My problem is, after reading all this material I must be in info overload as I have no idea how to start. Could you suggest a simple recipe for doing prediction using the internet that I could try out? I tried looking at some of the marine sites mentioned in the book, but there are so many sites and so many links to info. I am lost. A recipe might look like…

Here (in new Zealand) it is difficult (read impossible) to get 500Hpa charts on weatherfax….what options can you recommend ? Thanks for your input. Best regards, Alan

Hi Steve–I’m confused about how to tell the difference between a stable trough that runs from the northeast to the southwest and an unstable one that runs from the southwest to the northeast ( page 180, top paragraph). How do you tell them apart? On page 168, you suggest using clipboards to organize the surface and 500mb charts. Do you use six of them? It seems like a lot but I’m having trouble organizing the paper explosion.

Could you recommend the best coastal and ocean navigation textbook available? Thank you. Simon

Hi: Do you have a contact or web page for these products? Thanks in advance, John

Steve: Are there two versions of the Sundeer 60, a shorter 56 and a longer 60? With a 60ft is this perhaps why the owner of TOUCAN moved the rudder further aft? Would it make sense to do it, i.e. would it improve control, say, downwind; are there any drawbacks? Have other 60’s done the same? I’d be interested in your thoughts; haven’t been able to speak with the owner. In advance, thanks…Peter

Hi Steve, [What are your] opinions on the Formosa design and is it a capable bluewater vessel i.e. circumnavigator. Regards, Scott

Hello Steve: If I may quickly pick your experience. I’ve located a William Garden Ketch, Dolphin design 32LwL, 42LoA. Aesthetically, I am in love with that clipper overhang/bowsprit. Only seen a truncated picture so far. Have to travel to check it out, and my source is uncertain whether it is cutter-rigged or not but assume so with a bowsprit. Can’t tell from poor quality photo. It’s wooden hulled, mahog on oak. 11’6 beam 6’6 draft 22,000 displ with 8,000 Ballast Keel assumed to be full length. I have experience sailing dinghies, but that’s it. Intend to use it as a seasonal liveaboard, and to develop/polish skills singlehanding on a big boat. It is purported to be a bluewater boat. Sail package is minimal but includes a storm trysail. What would be your comments on this one, yea or nay for my intentions, assuming the survey is acceptable? I love the way it looks but have to look to an expert such as yourself as to how she may sail, if your familiar or could make an educated guess. You are doing a great service to the sailing community. Thanks, Raphael.

Hello, In your rigs and rigging section, you mention using the Profurl 4000 free flying furler. Can that furler be set tight enough to work for use up wind sail?

Don Street, in his valuable book The Ocean Sailing Yacht, mentions his using a similar unit some years ago for both jib and staysail and using them upwind, downwind, whatever. High luff tension is vital, of course. I don’t see why these couldn’t be used for all headsails, providing the safety of being able to get the sail down and also being able to easily change sails. Leaving the headstay would provide the backup system for a hanked-on sail. The century-old Wykeham-Martin design still works well for gaff riggers. Can the new flying furlers fill the role for Bermudan rigs?

Thanks, Donal

I am thinking of building or buying a 40-ft yacht for long-distance bluewater cruising with a small family crew. Can you please give me some input to the rigging systems you have for your yachts? I have read some of your most interesting topics in Tech Talk–is there any for the 2-masted rigging? I’m very impressed with your boats. Yours, Bosse

A couple of quick questions:

How much has your boat slowed down with furling sails vs. non-furling sails? Do you foresee any major problems with furling vs. hank-on for serious offshore work? How do you plan to douse the sails if the furler jams?

Thanks again for your time. God Bless, Dr. Kirk

Steve, Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge and experience in your book series. Accompanied by your videos, they are assisting us in mastering the significant learning curve. Last year, after careful consideration of your discussion of maxi roach full batten mainsails, we made the jump and invested in a new main and car system for our Endeavor 38. Wow! A substantial increase in performance, plus a new sense of confidence in a wide variety of sailing conditions. The new main provides enough drive that we routinely use a much smaller headsail and we have reduced weather helm. However, our battens continue to be a source of frustration. When reefing, furling, or raising the mainsail, the battens bend and flop out of the lazy jacks, dragging the rear third of the sail material with them.

In addition, starting in moderate air, the battens seem to be overly flexible and don’t seem to respond enough when flattening the sail. Additionally, the battens donÕt appear to be stiff enough to control the sailcloth as the main lays on the boom. Our initial diagnosis is that the battens are not stiff enough given the sail size, aggressive roach, and cloth weight (7.5 oz). The fundamental question is how do you tell when you have arrived at the right batten stiffness? I suspect our sailmakerÕs choice of batten material (pultruded 1 5/8Ó glass) was based on the availability of standard materials. If the analysis is correct, what is a source for stiffer battens? Dave

Hi Steve- I read a question in the Q&A section of cruising central. It was the one where you said that getting into sailing dinghies for a summer would be comparable to sailing a larger boat for a few years. I already know how to sail and I sailed a dinghy as a youngster. Now I’d like to get into cruising 30-40 footers long distances. Would dinghy racing also benefit me as far as learning and experience in sailing? There are many dinghy fleets here in San Diego that I could readily join. I’m a 50-year-old guy and I’d like to become a capable cruiser before I’m too old. Thank you very very much for your valued guidance. Kevin

I am building an Aluminum Sailboat with a spade rudder and rudder stock. I am planning to use UHMWPE plain bearings. Would it be a good idea to hard anodise the shaft in the area of the bearings to reduce the wear? Would there be any corrosion issues? Thanks, Howard

I received Surviving the Storm for Christmas, and have found it to be a very informative and useful book. It is great that you provide specific advice on what to do in different situations. You also inspire a great deal of confidence in the boat – that most modern boats will survive if the crew is careful.

I do have a couple of questions. How do you maintain active tactics like running off or heading up into large waves when 1) you are shorthanded with a husband and wife only on board and/or 2) it is night and you can’t see the waves coming? Regards, Hank

I noticed that your boats keep getting bigger and bigger. What do you consider the best minimum size for cruising? My dream is to sail down the coast of California to Mexico, Panama Canal, Caribbean, and then Greece, Italy, France, and England. Thanks for writing what looks like a wonderful book. Sincerely yours, Sal

Hi ya: For years we have lusted after your boats (Wiroa was one) but couldn’t afford them. Our own boat Gungha (Alan Buchanan design in steel, round slack bilge’s and overhangs) was getting too small. We owned her and lived on board for 21 years.

Last year we were lucky to change boats and boat designs. The new boat is a Birdsall 60. She really is the boat of our dreams. Heaps of space, stable and fast-as. I can’t think of anything about the layout or performance of the boat that I could criticize. We have just made our first offshore passage from NZ to Tonga with heavy weather and she went like the clappers. So no problem there. There is however a problem of lingering doubt vis-à-vis the design.

I have been used to the deep draft and 45% ballast ratio of Gungha (nice and rolly). I always knew that if she was capsized she’d snap back upright in moments. I know you’re probably familiar with the Birdsall designs, as they resemble your own in some aspects. This yacht is 63′ on deck, 60′ at the waterline. She has a 14’10” beam which is carried aft but certainly not forward (very narrow there) and she has a 6′ draft.

The yacht is single chine steel with a long (about 17′ fore and aft) fin keel and a skeg-supported spade rudder. The hull of the yacht draws a little over 2′ with the keel making up the rest of the draft. The yacht is double-bottomed fully with welded in tanks, which hold a total of 800 gallons of fluids. The deck plate and all construction techniques have concentrated all the weight as low as possible. The yacht has a center cockpit and trunk cabin with considerable buoyancy.

My problem is this. The yacht is adequately stiff even in hard conditions but…she only has 4 tons of ballast. Her total shipyard weight is 27 tons. What do you think of that and her ability to be tipped over????? We have sailed over 60,000 miles and prior to that I was a commercial fisherman in Alaska…Am I getting paranoid in my old age?

Thanks and cheers, Mike

I have a 1987 Ericson 34 MKII and am looking to replace my mainsail. Why would I consider a tri-radial verses a cross cut mainsail? I do not race but the family enjoys going fast. Thanks

Hi Steve & Linda, Thanks for the great Encyclopedia & library. We have been enjoying it for a long time now. Thanks also for your advice on the ROCNA anchor. We have now purchased one & hope to start using it & the boat soon. I’m wondering if you’ve any knowledge/feedback on leaded anchor line. We have 42 metres of chain but would like more. Unfortunately our anchor locker won’t take any more & I thought perhaps 50 metres of leaded anchor line might make a suitable compromise (added to the existing chain). We have not come across anyone who has used this product & are hoping you or one of your readers can help with some feedback. Thanks, Pam & Bill

Steve: You emphasize the importance of weight in anchors. Is it weight itself or fluke size that you think important? This issue has obvious relevance to buying a steel or aluminum version of an anchor where this is possible: Fortress and Spade. I don’t have an anchor windlass on my 40′ J120 and don’t want one. So I want a light anchor. I am considering a 33# aluminum Spade which is the same size as a 66# steel Spade. What do you think? – David

Hello Steve & Linda, I just watched Offshore, and enjoyed it very much. I have been looking around on your website, and I think it is fantastic. Well done. I dream of having a lifestyle like yours one day.

I’m 22, and have a 34′ custom riveted aluminum round bilge, Terhou, built in England in ’59. Within the next decade or so, intend to weld something bigger (and faster) for myself.

This goal has me thinking about design, best practices, etc. You mentioned in Offshore that Sundeer’s keel is welded on. How is the ballast installed? Is it poured inside? I assume it is lead? – Ryan

Hi Steve, You built some 74′ Motorsailors that are illustrated in the Cruising Encyclopedia, but not mentioned anywhere else that I can see. Can you tell us more about your Motorsailors. What are your current thoughts on Motorsailors? What IS a Motorsailor? BEOWULF is sometimes referred to as a Motorsailor and may be the best example of the breed. John T

I write seeking some advice on Aluminum boats. I have a 50 foot Ferru Pilothouse cutter. This French boat is constructed in Al but has epoxy fairing compound in varying thickness over the entire hull and deck (damn those Frenchies). The vessel was neglected for a couple of years so blisters formed over a large surface area. We’ve been chipping away at these blisters to allow air at the Al to prevent further surface deterioration and now the boat looks like it has leprosy. Inspired by your lithe bare-metal “Beowulf”, I want to remove the rest of the fairing compound to lighten the vessel and avoid the sisyphean task of regular paint and epoxy maintenance. The remaining coating, however are tenaciously adherent to the metal surface. These are some of the questions I have… 1. Is it advisable to strip the boat bare? 2. What is the best way to deal with the tiny areas of pitting corrosion that have occurred where water was trapped between the epoxy and the metal? 3. What is the best way to strip the epoxy from aluminum without damaging the hull and deck? 4. Does sandblasting have to be done with aluminum oxide grit or could another material be used? 5. Do you know anything about the French boatbuilder, Ferru? We love to sail our boat and we intend to keep her for many years. We are currently living aboard in New York. I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

Hello, Have you a review of computers/laptops/notebooks best compatible with seafaring vessels? Thank you, Bernard

We are shortly to buy an SSB radio. We propose to spend up to USD2,500 and will run a weather fax program on a Toshiba laptop thru it. The model we like so far is an Icom IC-M710. Have any of your readers had any experience with one of these, and if so how do they like it? Mike

Greetings from the Florida Keys. Of all the great values one can find, your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia is the best. We have used your book as a wonderful resource to guide our steps and now are the proud, and deliriously happy owners of a 45′ Columbia. An older boat, she is quite sound, needing only a lot of “elbow grease” and some electronics. We were fascinated by the application of ground walnut shells to teak saloon floors for a non-skid, good looking flooring (page 1034). Is there a supply source for the shells, or did you render them yourself? Thanks, Janine M.

I’m retiring and thinking of sailing. I’m a Alaskan sailor all my life…but im thinking of US- VI or South Florida. I’ve fished all my life off boats that make so much noise you can’t think. A catamarn sounds like my kind of boat. What do you think? Can a guy figure on living free at $30,000 a year? I have no bills and no wife nor kids. At 56 it’s time to get a tan. Any commments? – Jim

A few of your contributors mention writing articles as a source of periodic income while cruising. We have the option of submitting to some non-English periodicals and it seems to be a less saturated market. My question is, how much does one expect to get paid per article? If on contract to a specific publication, what is the nature of such a contract? If freelance, do you just send your article to a few publications and then wait (maybe months or years) to see if it gets published and they send you a check? Thanks, Aharon

Hello. I was trying to purchase a copy of "The Ship’s Medicine Chest" that you recommend in the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia (excellent book BTW!). However, it seems to be out of print. Do you happen to know if there is anything that replaces it or could you recommend something else or is it worth trying to get a used copy if it is not out-of-date? I do plan to purchase the other two medical books you referenced.

Hi, Heard on Savvy Traveler and then saw on their website about you. My wife and I a seeking a crewing time on a sailboat. How do we make contact with sailboat captains through you. -Ted

I am in purchase inspection of a Lancer 42 sloop, engine Perkins 85 hp. Another same model would be far away and therefore about $25,000 more expensive to get with the biggest engine of 220hp. I am aware of hull speed formula, but these boats were build with planning hull and can speed up to 12 knots, I guess. Now, how could I change the power engine, do I need another prop and shaft, to become the most powerful and faster boat under power? If change, what are such costs and makes it sense, if the goal is to have just in case a fast boat? Thanks for your opinion, have a great day, Ute

Dear Mr. Dashew, I am a cruising sailor planning on taking delivery of a new Hylas 46 in June 03. I have been investigating traction battery options since reading your Tech Talk Battery Maintenance article on SetSail. In addition to the Trojan alternative source mentioned in your article, Yuassa and IBE also manufacture traction batteries. I am particularity interested in IBE as they are a “local” manufacturer to me and the boat will be commissioned in Long Beach. IBE batteries are about 40% less expensive than the source you recommended and they appear to have good life expectancy (1500 cycles @ 80%)and a 5/15 year warranty.

Since they have been available for many years, I wanted to know if you had had any experience with them and, if so, could share that experience with me. The 40% cost deferential saves me over $1200 on a 1000AH 12V bank so I would like to have additional info to make an informed decision. I look forward to your response. Best Regards, Phil

Good afternoon Steve and Linda…Continuing to benefit from owning and referring to your fabulous Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia…A great investment and representative of hard work on your part…I also continue to work on buying that Jeanneau 34 I mentioned to you about a month ago by e-mail, and I saw her for the first time yesterday at her new home in New Bern where she has just arrived from being in the Caribbean for most of her seven years…She is up on the hard for now, which gave me the opportunity to see her hull below the waterline…There is noticeable blistering on both sides…Close to a dozen on each side…They are all the same size…About two inches diameter and all open and faired like somebody has already been working on them….Do you consider this type of hull blistering to be a significant fly in the ointment? I can’t find it now, but I recently read an article with the point of view that hull blistering is inevitable and is really not such a big deal…that the core fiberglass remains sound…Do you share this view? Would you say these existing blisters should be filled in? Also the rudder is not on a skeg, which is probably a strike against her would you say? Thanks mucho.

Dear Steve and Linda, I own a Columbia 50 sailboat and I am redoing the exhaust system. Do you know what the original water jacket exhaust was made of ? I have been told that copper is the best as long as no other metals are involved. I have tried a water lift but the back pressure is taking too much power from the engine (Westerbeke 107). I would like to go back to the original as I have the room to do it now. A stand pipe would work but I do not like the long section of dry stack. Any information would be helpful. p.s. great books I have “The Circumnavigators’ Handbook” and “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia” Thanks So Much, Charles

Hi Steve, We were planning to leave for Bermuda tomorrow, but just received a WX report from Commanders that’s a bit scary. They are predicting the “largest storm of the season” over Bermuda this Thurs and Fri. Are suggesting we can get there before it hits, but I’m not sure about that. And even if we get in safely, will have to anchor in St. George’s sufficiently well to withstand 55 knots, according to them. We asked Herb about the storm tonight, but he refused to comment, saying Fri is too far off. I can’t see the warning signs on the 96hr 500mb (maybe they’re over the West Coast now?), but I confess I’m still not great at understanding the 500mb charts, your Mariner’s Weather Handbook notwithstanding. We have no deadlines, no pressure to leave, except for a fridge full of food! What do you think, O Great Seer of the 500mb charts? Commanders says if we don’t leave tomorrow, we should wait till Tuesday, and will be motoring most of the way. By the way, David Jones has not warned our friends about this at all (they’re using him for routing), and they’re expecting to arrive in Bermuda Thurs or Fri as well.

Sorry to trouble you, but I would appreciate your opinion. By the way, we’re in Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, and BEOWULF looks in great shape over there in the yard. Regards, Candace

Enjoy your book which I have recently received. I got started on the topic of 500mb charts and went to the Internet to practice. I need some help on downloading these charts so I can print them. Can you give me some help? I was able to enter all the necessary web sites and find their locations, but could not get beyond that point. Thanks, Michael

I very much enjoyed your Encyclopedias, Volumes 1 and 2…Do you have an address for the manufacturer of the Paul Luke "Hyde" propellers? I have used several Barrett and Maxiprops over the years, and have found them to be VERY inefficient compared to a fixed pitch (like 2.5 knots worth) It always seemed to me that a feathering prop with a little twist would be the answer, but I didn’t know that they existed until I saw reference to it in your book. If it’s not too much problem, do you also have a source for your "Murphy" gauges?

I am now interested in a 40 foot Newporter that seems to be in great shape. I’m the guy from Alaska and wanted a motorsailer. Do you know anything about these boats? There was 122 made, an older model but appears to have nice lines to her. The only thing I might wonder about is the freeboard. She is nice and heavy at 30,000# 5600 in the keel. I happened to love wooden boats. This is a cold mold with fiber glass. I anxiously wait your response. Cheers, Spike

Hi Steve, Thanks for the input on the SD 60. Ever set one up as a ketch? Also, somewhere in my readings of your work, I believe you stated that you calculated displacement differently than most boats so that an allowance for the typical load of stuff that offshore cruisers carry is in the total displacement figure for the boat. Does this mean that the figure usually given for most boats, say on a PHRF certificate, is not the same as the number for displacement for your designs? Also, what kind of ratings would your SD 60 or DF 58 get under the various handicap systems, not to be used to judge the boat but to see how I might fare in a race. Thanks for your help, Crawford

I am installing a small electric anchor winch to hoist and reef my boom furling main, which has a large roach. I would like to have a halyard brake or other device to maintain light, constant tension on the halyard as I haul the sail down to reef or stow completely. If tension varies, the roll loosens and risks jamming against the front of the boom. Who makes such devices, or can one find a rope clutch that has a variable setting that could be used? I don’t care what it is called, only that it does the job I require…Thanks….Lowell

Dear Mr. Dashew: November 2001 Sail magazine contains an article by naval architect Roger Marshall titled "Seamanship in High Winds" in which he states (page 36), “…I believe that every boat that is intending to go offshore should have a staysail stay, possibly made of aramid, on which to set the storm jib.” My question concerns the nature of such a staysail stay made of aramid. Could this be as simple as an aramid halyard attached to a folding padeye on deck made tight with a winch? (Assuming the geometry of the aramid halyard/staysail stay would be acceptable using the topping lift sheave, for example.) If so, such an arrangement might appeal to coastal cruisers such as myself, who would like to have the option of using a hanked-on storm jib on a staysail stay but have difficulty justifying a conventional staysail stay installation due to its low frequency or probability of use.

If my understanding, as set out above, of what Mr. Marshall intends is correct, how satisfactory would such an arrangement be in actual use? Do you believe this would be a good option for coastal cruisers such as myself? (I realize the scope of my question ignores additional important considerations like keeping the mast in column, possibly using running backstays or swept-back spreaders, etc. and the structural concerns of the deck handling the loads.) If such an installation is a reasonable approach, I am sure you can see the potential appeal for some cruisers. If one were lucky, installation might be as simple as installing a folding padeye on deck, replacing the topping lift with aramid line run to an appropriate winch (assuming the topping lift sheave is located opposite upper swept back spreaders) and buying a storm jib with hanks. Wishful thinking? As always, thank you for your assistance.—Downing Mears

Dear Mr. Dashew, Your books are most informative, thank you for writing them. I have recently inherited a steel Bruce Roberts 38 built by an uncle who was a professional fitter/welder. I like the boat, but do not favor its ketch rig. Reading your work, it has occurred to me that I might convert the rig to a mast forward sloop.

At the present time I do not want to replace the entire rig. However, in preparation for a 6 month Bahamas–Chesapeake cruise I need to replace the main and one headsail anyway.

So, here is my question. Am I likely to benefit from removing the mizzen and replacing the main with a much larger big roach full batten sail, keeping the current mast in its present position (13ft from bow, LOD 38)?

Knowledgeable friends tell me that there are many complex balance and stability factors involved. I question this because I can balance the boat without the mizzen on most points of sail over a fairly wide range of wind speed. As for stability, I would not increase mast height. With a P36ft/E14ft I can almost match the sail area if I go with a big roach mainsail.

I contacted Bruce Roberts but was dissatisfied with the response as they only wanted to sell me plans for a traditional cutter rig.

If the conversion has merit can a good rigger/sailmaker help me work out the details or would I need to involve a naval architect? Any recommendations? I’m in Florida. Thanks, Beau

I am currently looking at a 54 Hylas to be used for coastal cruising in Florida and the Bahamas, very little extended blue water. A lot of daysailing. Would you recommend a furling boom or in-mast (vertical battens)? Are the in-boom furlers relatively trouble-free? Thank you. Richard

Aloha Folks: I am, like too many new cruisers, spending money adding things I MIGHT need…I am thinking about prep for the day at sea when not smart enough to avoid heavy weather, and I need a drogue.

AVALON, TPI hull #5 has at the stern port and starb an open chalk on the rail thru which in a tie up to a dock leads fair to the cleat mounted thwartship on the stern.

I am wondering how to secure drogue lines considering their strain and the stern line cleat set at right angles to the pull of the drogue line.

What would you say to leading the drogue bridle thru the hole between the cleat “feet”, then a single turn around a heavy winch then secured to the midship cleat on the rail? The winch turn to facilitate retrieval, the stern cleat to provide a fairlead, and the midship cleat to provide a fair securing place.

Thanks, Scott

I have bought Prologue, an original 1970 classic Sp&Spears Swan 40. I am going to sail her to Falmouth England…and then onto West Coast Scotland, Transat from Oxford Maryland. I need a suitable windvane and must, on grounds of cost, try to find one used. Have you any suggestions as to buying one? Keith F

Re: your article in Cruising World some editions ago concerning crossing a harbour bar. As a last advice there could be the option of using a drogue from the stern for stabilizing reasons (I also use a drogue as a steering device).

What do you think about this? The first one who mentioned this method was Captain Voss in 1901 (in “The Venturesome Voyages Of Captain Voss). Best Wishes Yours, Jens

Hello! The subject of Multihulls vs. Monohulls is a hot one, and is likely to continue to be. 🙂 However, there is one designer who has put online a very good paper on multihull seaworthiness. It is, of course, true that he is a catamaran designer, so the criticism may be the paper is biased, but it is very technical in nature, and I find (having an engineering background) reasonably complete and suited to the informed lay reader.

The article on your site I am referring to is: Multihulls.

John Shuttleworth’s article on multihull seaworthiness is here: http://www.steamradio.com/JSYD/Articles/NESTalk.html

I believe that your opinions may be swayed by his treatment. As always, seaworthiness is as much a function of the crew as of the boat, but a good crew with a bad boat can only go so far. I was very timid about the idea of multihulls and blue water, but decided I would research it before making up my mind. What I found were many good sources of experience reports (MultiHull Voyaging by Thomas Firth Jones for example) which finally convinced me that multihulls, designed correctly, could be as seaworthy in blue water as a well designed monohull, if not more so.

I have heard a bit about storm tactics and multihulls, and the one thing I have heard that I do not know if you have mentioned (not having purchased your book yet) is using a large para sea anchor. I am told that using a very large para anchor, head-to the seas, creates a slick much like the one one gets with a keel boat that is properly hove-to. The idea is to use the para anchor at roughly a one wavelength distance from the boat. This saps the waves power as it comes towards the boat and will then rarely, if ever, break across the bow. Since swell cannot capsize a boat, it stands to reason that this would be a very good tactic.. a sort of heaving-to for a multihull. The para anchor should be something like at least 75% of the beam. I have heard that 28 foot, nylon para anchors are most common, being able to be gotten from other sources than custom. Have you heard of this tactic?—Timothy

1) What are your thoughts on the merits of roller-furling mains, especially the leisure furl boom systems which allow a better cut main with full battens?

2) Center-cockpit boats–Is the benefit of a better aft cabin and a small afterdeck worth the wetter, more motion at the helm that results from being higher up and more forward?

I’m about to order a gennaker for my Sabre 402 and have been trying to decide between your snuffer and ATN’s. For dousing, ATN recommends blowing the tack before pulling the snuffer down. If I am reading your response to Doug Peters’s question about this, you seem to be recommending easing the sheet. Having had some difficulty doing this with the non-ATN, non-North snuffer on my last boat, ATN’s idea seems sensible to me. Is there a reason I couldn’t take this approach with your snuffer?

Hello Steve, Would you please tell me the material you used for anchor rollers on Windhorse? Is there a good mix between something soft (quiet) enough and durable? Thanks, Bill

Dear Steve and Linda, Impressed by your books, esp. the encyclopedia. Still I’ve 1 question: I’m looking for a powered windlass for my new 50′ ALU ketch. In your books you hint electrical windlasses are good enough, however I hear from different people that they can only work for a short period because of heating of the DC motor. Indeed e.g. Muir says to me: max. 10 minutes running time. At a speed of 8 m.min that’s only 80 meters chain. Now you also write that anchoring involves 3 maybe even 5 trials before the anchor holds. How does that relate to each other? Wouldn’t therefore a hydraulic windlass be better? Many thanks in advance, Ronald

Good Morning Steve: I have a 98 Valiant 42. I’m selling her and moving to the trawler mode. Most trawlers are just ugly–too high off the water, too much windage. I’ve found the Dieselducks designed by George Buehler and built at Seahorse Marine in China. Please look over these and let me know what you think. Here is their website: http://www.seahorseyachts.com/ Go to the dieselduck 44 and take a look at them. Please let me know how you feel about steel boats and if the design is sound. I respect your opinion more than anyone out there. Thanks again, Roy

Dear Steve and Linda, heaving read all of your books I would like to thank you for your advice given there. As only one example, we’ve changed our mainsail to an extra-roached, fully-battened one which gave us 1 knot extra speed at all courses, which is a lot for 34 feet. Having a double backstay we don’t see any problems even with 30 cms overlap.

My question now is: What do you think of centerboards? We are interested in a 43′ Dutch aluminium Koopmans design which has no keel whatsoever. She sports only internal ballast and the centerboard seems rather small (weighing around 400 kg). The boat was constructed for falling dry in the North Sea. She has a long waterline and a draft of 1,20 meters board up and 2,50 m board down. The rudder is fully integrated into the hull and in line with the ship’s bottom, more just like a motorboat. Is the rudder surface of approx. 1,2 squaremeters large enough and the profile (not balanced) effective to steer the ship in a heavy going?

Thanks for some advice, and have some fun with your grandbaby. Andreas

Dear Steve & Linda: Received your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia Second Edition for Christmas 97 and I cannot stop reading it. I am at present building a 45ft steel motorsailor from a kit. The design includes welding a steel tube into the hull for the propeller shaft stern gear. As this tube is bored each end to accept the cutlass bearings and salt water is pumped through to lubricate these bearings, I am concerned about rusting of the inside of the tube and the corrosion around the cutlass bearing making for difficulty in removing for replacement bearing. Is it possible to manufacture the stern tube from stainless steel and weld the stainless to the steel hull? This would give the protection from corrosion. If it is (possible), what would be the ideal grade stainless steel? The propellor shaft is 316 grade. Regards, Dave

Dear Steve,

We build an aluminum 50ft and have one question.

1. How to make the lightning protection ground plate to the outside of the hull and what material/size to use. Hull material alloy 5083, painted.

2. How to make SSB ground plate to reflect waves into the air, also here please advice size and material.

Please be so kind to advice your comments based on experience on your aluminum boats.

I cannot find reply in your book.

Thank you and best regards, Alexander