Dear Steve and Linda, heaving read all of your books I would like to thank you for your advice given there. As only one example, we’ve changed our mainsail to an extra-roached, fully-battened one which gave us 1 knot extra speed at all courses, which is a lot for 34 feet. Having a double backstay we don’t see any problems even with 30 cms overlap.

My question now is: What do you think of centerboards? We are interested in a 43′ Dutch aluminium Koopmans design which has no keel whatsoever. She sports only internal ballast and the centerboard seems rather small (weighing around 400 kg). The boat was constructed for falling dry in the North Sea. She has a long waterline and a draft of 1,20 meters board up and 2,50 m board down. The rudder is fully integrated into the hull and in line with the ship’s bottom, more just like a motorboat. Is the rudder surface of approx. 1,2 squaremeters large enough and the profile (not balanced) effective to steer the ship in a heavy going?

Thanks for some advice, and have some fun with your grandbaby. Andreas

Dear Steve & Linda: Received your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia Second Edition for Christmas 97 and I cannot stop reading it. I am at present building a 45ft steel motorsailor from a kit. The design includes welding a steel tube into the hull for the propeller shaft stern gear. As this tube is bored each end to accept the cutlass bearings and salt water is pumped through to lubricate these bearings, I am concerned about rusting of the inside of the tube and the corrosion around the cutlass bearing making for difficulty in removing for replacement bearing. Is it possible to manufacture the stern tube from stainless steel and weld the stainless to the steel hull? This would give the protection from corrosion. If it is (possible), what would be the ideal grade stainless steel? The propellor shaft is 316 grade. Regards, Dave

Dear Steve,

We build an aluminum 50ft and have one question.

1. How to make the lightning protection ground plate to the outside of the hull and what material/size to use. Hull material alloy 5083, painted.

2. How to make SSB ground plate to reflect waves into the air, also here please advice size and material.

Please be so kind to advice your comments based on experience on your aluminum boats.

I cannot find reply in your book.

Thank you and best regards, Alexander

Hello Dashews: We have a Cal 2-46 and I am struggling with how to build a substantial grounding plane for the SSB–the previous owner did not have an adequate installation. Could you give us some suggestions? So far, we understand that the sintered bronze plates are not adequate. One person suggested that we cover the entire rudder in copper plate, two have suggested that we epoxy copper screen into wherever we can in the bilge (which would be a lot of relatively small pieces), someone suggested multiple copper strips running lengthwise in the bilge and Ed at American Marine Coatings in Seattle says he can mix up a batch of his product with sufficient copper in it to make it conductive so it will work if painted into bilge spaces and connected up. What to you think? Thank you very much. Jim and Leslee

Hello, Because I am changing the interior of my wooden Van de Stadt Pacific sailing vessel I have to make several choices. Therefore I am happy with the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia because it is based on experience and that is what I need. It is my intention to install a hot water heating system and in the encyclopedia is mentioned a Teledyne system what would be a better system in comparison with Webasto, which I know well. Is it possible to send me an e-mail adress from Teledyne because I like to know more about the system.I was not succesful in finding Teledyne on the internet, and I am sure you can help me. Thank you very much in advance. Greetings, Paul

Good afternoon. This may be totally off the wall. But, would there be much of a use for a small metal lathe in a cruising situation? For making spare parts for my boat or better yet, making parts for other boats and getting paid for it? Thanks for any insight you will provide. David

Aloha from the Big Island, We’re going to be cruising the South Pacific for the next few years, and wondered if you have any recommendations for a health insurance company. We’ve enjoyed your books and website! Keep it up. Thanks, Richard and Kelly, s/v Amazing Grace

Hello Steve and Linda: As part of the crew aboard a Deerfoot 61, I will be assisting with preparing the vessel for extended cruising. She has a sugar scoop stern which brings her to 63′. My question is where to store the 12′ inflatable dingy. Currently it is hauled out of the forepeak, assembled, inflated and swung over the side using a halyard. The thought of performing this evolution at each anchorage is unappealing. After spending 6 years cruising aboard my own vessel which was equipped with davits I was mindful of the need to launch and retrieve the dingy easily. If we were sailing in protected waters the dingy with outboard hung in the davits. In open waters we removed the motor to the stern rail and snug the dingy up tight. Going to sea the dingy was brought to the foredeck, partially deflated, inverted and lashed down. I have looked over this web site and your book (an older one) and found references to the dingy but not to storage aboard the Deerfoot. Any references or insights would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Don

Hi Steve, I’ve finally finished reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and look forward to Surviving the Storm. Great job on its contents and construction–first class! May I pick your brain on the pros and cons of foreign flag vs. US documentation…I am mainly concerned with trouble in foreign ports (both ways; foreign flag ownership issues with customs, and anti-US sentimental issues with the locals of US registered entities). Thanks, Bill

Please can you help. We are new to boating and have a 40ft sailboat – recently the fuel tank was overfilled and as a result a valve in the gage popped and allowed a considerable amt of fuel into the bilge. I had just cleaned, polished etc the entire inside of the boat to make it smell OK after being closed up for some time and now it smells like the inside of a diesel tank!! Do you have any suggestion what we can do to help eliminate the smell – we are at Hastings, Victoria Australia and everyone here says we just have to live with it and it will diminish in time – I want to try anything – I get sea sick. Your comments will be appreciated. Thanks Bev

One of my batteries won’t hold a charge too long because either something is draining off some current and/or it got over charged when I was once having alternator problems. Any ideas? How does one test gel batteries? Thanks in advance, Marvin

Good Day: We are sailing our 48′ ketch up the Hudson into Canada this summer. We keep the boat in Elbow Cay in the Bahamas and plan to pull the masts in Albany.

I’ve seen awnings that don’t need to be supported by halyards. I’ve seen them supported with frames made with PVC pipe. Any idea who sells or might have plans for such an awning?

Do you sell or are you aware of any videos that might be of interest to us for this trip? Kindest regards, Steve

I am a Marine Surveyor in Northern CA and I am in the middle of managing a large maintenance and upgrade project for a client. The client is interested in following a number of suggestions made the the “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia”, one of which is having both an electric and manual shutdown for his diesel engine. The local Yards are saying they’ve never heard of doing this and I was wondering how to contact Steve Dashew to see if there is a drawing or write-up explaining the linkage so that we can move this process along. I have no doubt I can “engineer” the idea but was trying to avoid “re-inventing the wheel”. Can you provide me with his e-mail address or an address of someone who might have this info? Thank you, Michael

Where can I find more technical info on passages in El Niño years? I’ve been unable to find anything, even in your books and website. There’s talk of reinforced trades, reversed trades, and as you say reduced trades. Is there any solid data or experience on the subject? Many thanks again…Jan

Hi, I’m unable to locate a weatherfax for the South African coastline and immediate area. Please advise. Martin.

Steve…I hope you will forgive me for taking advantage of my ability to contact you so easily to clarify two points mentioned in your book. I realize you are extremely busy and would understand if your response came after you have completed your new book. Firstly, if I understand correctly, troughs (areas of lower contours) shown on the 500 mb charts are actually areas of higher pressure (page 136 of Mariner’s Weather Handbook).

I have a 1984 Hunter 34′ sailboat. Installing a new engine, Yanmar 3ym30 (29 HP). What size prop would you recommend? I’m strictly a coastal cruiser and would like a 3 blade. What are your thoughts? Carl W.

Steve– In your book you seemed to like the max prop. Is this still your true? if not, what is your opinion on the Gori 3 blade prop?

Another question to add to “The Right Boat” category, if you have a moment. I would certainly appreciate a comment or two regarding Gulfstars as a sailing boat, specifically the cutter-rigged Gulfstar 44. Anticipated use would be primarily coastal cruising and island-hopping in the Caribbean.

Hi Dashews–After many months of research and viewing, we have found our first boat! We are buying a 1964 Cal 40 in mostly lovely condition for about 50K. I would like your opinion on a couple of concerns I had about the boat.

1. We had an engine survey done and the V-drive needs replacing–what other mechanical systems would V-drive failure affect? Stuffing box? Prop? etc?

2. I have been trying to find out specifics on the hull construction (I was told it was made of 5 hand-laid layers of fiberglass & would be thrilled to find out if that’s true!) but am not having much luck. Are there any non-destructive tests that can be done on hulls to check the condition & thickness of the fiberglass?

3. I have done enough research to know that the tabbing on the Cal 40s is weak and that there are some concerns with the deck-hull joint. Will a surveyor specifically check the bulkheads and the d-h joint for signs of weakness as a matter of course or do I need to instruct him as to what exactly I want inspected?

4. There is some minor decay on the bridge beam–what’s the best way to stop it? Any info at all would be appreciated–we set sail for the first time ever in June!! Thanks, Erin

I am considering the purchase of a 63′ vessel which is located in Rhode Island (I happen to live in Portland, Oregon). I am including a link to the broker’s listing for her and, if you have a moment, would appreciate your thoughts. The owner says he has been aboard BEOWULF, so you may have seen his boat, also.

Any thoughts or comments will be appreciated. What I’m looking for is a boat two people can sail. This one would take some work to get there, but it seems like it could be possible…

I have become somewhat obsessed with her, but am not sure it would be in my best interest to get involved. She seems like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity…Built to a high standard, to withstand sailing in the Southern Ocean. Fast, lots of interior room to setup for live-aboard. The structural advantages of aluminum.

I’m looking for honest, direct thoughts.

Can a ratchet block be used in order to control the release of a furling line?

The 44′ boat I recently purchased uses a small diameter spectra line for furling, and if and when it takes off in a breeze, it can do great damage to the hands! If you let it go, it usually kinks in the aft furling block. Thanks, Ted

My husband and I are in the process of buying our first boat ever. We plan to live aboard while we learn to sail. I found a 1972 Challenger 40 for $29,000. It has a 13’10” beam and is really well laid out–we’d be quite comfortable living in it. However, it needs all of the rigging replaced. We just read an article in Cruising World about the costs of refitting a boat which gave a rigging replacement estimate of $10,000. In your opinion, do you think this would be worth it? We don’t mind investing elbow grease and gear costs, but we also don’t want to “go down with the ship” on this! Thank you! Erin

Dear Mr. Dashew: I have been using a roach/leech overlap of 20% with no problem of backstay passage, and I have found this conservative, and have had no chafing problem over a six- or seven-year period. Have you used higher percentage overlaps successfully?

I am currently considering the use of a single diagonal batten just down from the head of the sail to get the leech well out, and then downward, with the battens having up to a 50% overlap. By that I mean that if the distance from luff to backstay is one meter, the batten would be 1.5 meters long.

Watching videos of my sail passing the backstay in slow motion plus years of experience show me that the sail “peels” across the backstay from bottom to top. Therefore, once the sail assumes a rounded shape, the battens slide easily across the backstay. Do you think 50% overlap will work, and is this a maximum?

A final question: Have you used roller booms on any of your boats? I am using a roller boom, and this raises some additional issues in the event you have experience or thoughts on maxiroach sails and roller booms. Thanks in advance for your comments. Lowell

Hi, I own a Voyage 430 catamaran, I need an instructional DVD on how to sail a large cat. Can you help? Thank you,
Keith

Steve at SetSail, I’ve experienced significant weather helm sailing my 50′ custom design cruising catamaran in winds 12-15+ knots. When entering an inlet in confused tidal currents, the helm is heavy and the vessel slow to respond under power. A growing concern among my designer, sailmaker, rigger and a couple of experienced sailors who’ve been aboard is that the rudders are undersized and/or unbalanced. Can you recommend any source(s) to help me understand more about rudder design and performance? Kind regards, Jim

Hi! Is there anyone who could tell me where i could find the angle of limit stability or angle of vanishing for a morgan 382 or a cal 39? Thank you! – Jacques

Hi. Could you tell me if you have had any boats built at Bos and Carr in NZ. Two clients have an interest in using this yard and I have some indication that you are familiar with their work. John

After reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia I have a couple of questions about converting an alum. IOR boat to a cruiser. The boat, Doug Peterson 44′ alum. flush deck, displ 25,000 keel 10,000 , 13’6″ beam 8′ draft. Built 1978. Intended uses of boat, Mexico and South Pacific.

Should I be concerned about the range of stability? If I buy this boat I plan on adding extra tankage low in the hull and under the floorboards if possible.

Is there a formula to figure range of stability ?

And lastly, I really like the 14′ Wherry pulling dingy. Are they still in production?

THANK YOU, Gene

Hi I am having trouble getting an answer on how to reef my main sail. I have a Beneteau 350 Oceanis. It is “new to me” but the person I purchased it from could not reef the main. It is a North sail. I will try to describe what I have. First of all the Sail is set up for Dutchman flaking. (I don’t think this has any bearing on the problem) This is applicable to both the first and second reef points. The main sail has only 2 cringles.

I have a line that starts at the cockpit and goes to a pulley at the base of the mast. From this point it goes up to a pulley into the mast end of the Boom. It exits the boom at the clew and goes through the cringle in the sail and then the bitter end is made fast at and anchor point at the bottom of the boom.

As it is currently rigged I can reef the back of the sail. I cannot reef the luff or front. There must be some way of leading the line through he cringle at the luff of the sail. I can’t go from the base of the mast to the cringle because when I return to the boom it would be on the wrong side of the pulley. I am sure it would snag.

I do have 2 open stainless loops attached to each side of the mast but they do not seem to be at the right location to aid in the change of direction. I hope my description is adequate. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, How about some coments about anchors Bruce vs ROCNA for the tropics for a 68 ft wt 68,000 sailboat. What size for the ROCNA do I go with their charts or go weigh up and do we keep a large Bruce also. Thanks, Fred

I am doing an extensive refit of an old Pearson Coaster (30ft) with the goal of doing some extensive cruising. One problem I have been attempting to solve is the storage of the anchor chain. I know were I want to store it, in the keel, but getting it there is the problem.

I want to deliver the chain to the keel from the windless through a PVC pipe to the keel. My theory is that the PVC pipe is something that should be considered a wear item. I would be installing it in such a way that it can be easily replaced. Thus far I have isolated that I need a minimum slope of 12 degrees and that I need to use a pipe size of 1 1/2″ ID for the 1/4″ High Test chain. The next size smaller PVC pipe, 1 1/4″ ID, is just the right size that if a link rolls up the chain will jam.

This appears to me as though I might be going about this from the wrong direction. I don’t have any experience in this area and something doesn’t feel right about my solution.

If anyone has had any experience in this area and would be willing to share any suggestions, they would be most welcome. If I am going about this from the wrong direction, please tell me, and if there is a better way to approach this problem, that I would also like to know. Thank you in advance, Fred C.

What do you consider the best material for pilothouse windows? Lexan, Tempered or safety (laminated tempered) glass?? Phillip

Hello, I’m looking at purchasing a yacht capable of offshore voyages in and around the Southern Ocean, I have found one which suits all my requirements except this steel yacht has a wooden deck and cockpit. Would this partial wooden construction compromise the structural strength of the yacht given worst-case scenarios in big seas? Marcus

Dear Steve and Linda: I am following you book as a guide (maybe I should say Bible, as I suspect many others are also). I plan to use a lightweight tread plate on the walkways on the top of the hulls and a few other places. The builder is concerned that, when the tread gets wet, it will be quite slippery. He thinks that you must be putting something in the way of nonskid on the tread plate. I suspect he is wrong but thought I should check. He is recommending that I use normal aluminum decking and apply a cork-based product made in Great Britain [I believe]. I prefer to stay with the tread plate, but only if this going to give me good footing when wet. I would appreciate knowing your experiences with the tread plate decking, as far as being slippery when wet. Incidentally, you recommended that I go with 80 grit versus the 120 I had considered. Boy, were you right! It looks much better. I am going to use the Barnacle System, I think, and thought of finishing the bottom in 120 grit and running without bottom paint to see what happens with just the Barnaclean system. [Your thoughts?] -Bill

Hi, have enjoyed reading your books. Was wondering what kind of bedding you use for circumnavigation taking in all the elements? Also, what kind of storage containers do you recommend for rice, flour, sugar etc…that last and keep things fresh? Thanks for the info…Jim

Hi, We would like to sail from Florida to Cancun next February. (We have a 47′ Hunter). We would then like to do approx. four eight-to-ten-day trips, using Cancun as a base. We also need to leave the boat at the beginning of March for 2 weeks. Can you recommend where we might look for reputable marinas? All I have found on the web so far is Scuba centres. Also are there any books on cruising in the area? Rgds, Richard

Hello SetSail folks…

First things…I have truly enjoyed your website and cover stories, please continue with your efforts. I am writing from Edmonton, Canada in hopes of receiving some direction or recommendations from those with much more knowledge in the area of sailing than I. I understand my vision may be a long-shot, but am hoping someone will come to my aid.

I have enjoyed the opportunity to be a passenger on a few larger sailing vessels (cruise-like atmosphere) in the Caribbean and am now looking to expand my travels, feed my desires and drive for sailing and partake on a short or long-distance sailing venture on a smaller vessel. Unfortunately, my skills in the same are lacking, as I have no formal or informal training here. I have a reputable and successful career in health care, but am looking to leave and do some traveling, particularly to join a family or crew on an extended sailing journey (s), to offer my assistance if/where possible and perhaps learn about seamanship during the ventures. I am considering travel in the Caribbean, Australia or other tropical destinations.

I again realize this may be a long-shot and was at a loss as to where to initiate such a search. Can you offer any suggestions, contacts or links to families or individuals in search of a trustworthy, hardworking and dedicated traveling companion for their travels (this could also include for child care, extreme novice crew, or even bartending)? For personal information on myself, I would be happy to offer that which would help narrow the search. For the basics, I am 30 yrs of age, female, divorced and financially secure. What else can I offer to assist in my search? Please let me know of any suggestions. Your help is greatly appreciated. Do not hesitate to contact me via e-mail. Thank you, again. Tammy

We are a family of 2 adults and four (soon to be five!) children about to embark on full-time cruising. We have ordered the Mariner’s Weather Handbook + CD and eagerly await its arrival.

In the meantime we have a burning question for which we cannot seem to find a clear answer. If the answer is in your Encyclopedia, just point us in that direction. We do plan to buy it, but are trying to pace ourselves on literature since one can only read so much at once. Anyway…

We are refitting an old Royal National Lifeboat here in England. We cannot register it here (unless we incorporate in the UK for the purpose) since we are not British citizens.

Our choices seem to be US Registration, or registration in the Grand Cayman Islands or some other offshore entity. Do you have any thoughts on the pros and cons of registering in various places? So far all we have found is a brief reference in “Voyaging Under Power” stating that really official US Registration papers can be helpful.

What do you think? Thanks, Russ & Karla & Crew

Steve, I’ve been sailing over 67 years. I sail a 1973 Pearson 33. I’m on the verge of installing a Frigoboat Keel Cooler system, which, as you no doubt know, runs the refrigerant tube thru a shoe outside the hull for cooling. However, I have concerns about corrosion and marine fouling, as the shoe cannot be painted. The salesperson that I’m dealing with said (his spelling): "Sailing gurus Nigel Calder, Tom Neal, and Steve Dashew all use and endorse the keel cooler." Tom Neale is not familiar with it and I haven’t yet reached Nigel Calder. Do you have a track record with the keel cooler? Sincerely, from the Jersey Shore, George

I’ve got an electrical generating concept to bounce off you. The boat is a catamaran with two Yanmar 27 HP engines. I want to power a Marine Air 16K btu air conditioner without adding a genset (third engine, weight). I’d like to run two 120 amp alternators in parallel on each engine (one regulator per engine) by connecting their fields together. Then add a second 3KW inverter that powers only the airco compressor. A link 20 runs the 800 AH battery bank. What do you think? Thanks, Bill

I’m trying to track down the “super juice” eutectic solution mentioned as being used by you to improve holdover plate performance. Where should I be looking? Thank you very much! Don Joyce

Can find no mention of “traction” batteries at Trojan’s web site. Do you have a part number or other identifier? Stan

I am hoping to make this trip starting in October of this year. Do you have an opinion regarding the “weather window” in mid October? From what I have read I should be OK although there are always exceptions. I thought I would keep an eye on the group of people in the Baja Ha Ha race that usually head south from San Diego to Cabo in late October. If there are no storms developing off the coast of Mexico that would eventually head northwest then I thought I would leave San Diego on a rhumb line for the “Islands.” If you have an opinion or experiences contrary to mine, I would appreciate the input. Sincere and personal regards, Jim Alexander

Hi Steve and Linda, I just started reading your Mariner’s Weather Handbook and I stumbled across something on page 59. In the italic at the bottom of the page it is stated that the effect of coriolis is less at higher altitude. I was puzzled by this, because from my time as an aviation student (a long, long, 21 years ago) I remembered that, due to friction, the effect of coriolis close to the surface, and especially over land, was less. Also in the italic part you (correctly I believe) state that over water (less friction) the wind angle relative to the isobars is less. This indicated a greater effect of coriolis. With no coriolis at all the wind angle would be perpendicular to the isobars. This also agrees with my experience as a pilot. The first 4000ft or so the wind veers as you go up. Less friction means greater effect from coriolis. What do you think? Has 21 years been too long or is there indeed something unclear in the text, and is it that what has got me thinking? I would very much appreciate it if you could shed some light on this matter. In the meantime I’ll continue reading your fine book, as I’ve done with the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia.

Dear Steve,

I am building a Bruce Roberts kit of 54′ radius chine cutter. After reading the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and viewing your Beowulf: The Legend DVD, I have decided to install CP prop by Hundested. I am getting the prop from Todd Terry at Pacific Marine Equipment, Inc. in Seattle. As far as I was able to find out, they are the (US) West Coast distributor for Hundested gear. Anyway, the thing is: You are saying in your book that you were using VP2 model, which according to Todd is no longer available. Therefore I am going with a bit larger VP3 model. Now, according to Todd, one can choose either fully reversible pitch prop or fully featherable prop to minimize the drag while sailing.

If I choose fully featherable prop, my reverse pitch is very minimal, nowhere near the forward pitch. If I choose the fully reversible prop I will have to give up the low drag feature of fully feathered prop.

After viewing Beowulf DVD In the chapter titled "Maneuvering Under Power", you have Linda reverse the pitch from 3.5 ahead to 4 astern. The scale on the gauge shows up to 6 ahead, up to 5 astern and also feathered position. Does it mean that with the VP2 you had the option of having nearly fully reversible pitch and also feathered position for sailing???

Are you familiar with the VP3 model and what is the difference between it and the old VP2 one? I have seen the operational model of VP3 in Seattle and in fact the reverse pitch is very minimal, a fraction of the forward pitch capabilities. Was your prop the same way?

I am sorry for rumbling on and on about it, but the Hundested props as you know are not cheap and I would like to make sure that my money will be wisely spent. I would be very grateful for your comments regarding this matter.

Good luck with your UnSailboat! I hope to meet you one day in some anchorage. Best Regards, Remek

Hi Dashews, Have 3 of your great books and getting a great deal from them. My yacht has a free-wheeling engine shaft and I understand someone has developed a system whereby you can mount an electrical generator inside the boat to the engine shaft via a belt and a set of pulleys–have you any information on this system, or contacts where it could be obtained? Regards, Mike

Steve, I wonder if you have had a look at the Aerodyne 47 with regard to use for bluewater cruising. I also wonder if the hull can take the bumps and knocks from extended cruise. Thanks, Howard.

Hi Steve: I have been admiring your crafts for some time now, and probably like everyone else, I am a big fan of your brilliant designs…speaking of brilliant designs have you stopped production on the Sundeer 64 and if not what are the price tags on one of those? I found a charter service online that uses one of these great cruisers and hope to charter it soon if I can get the chance. I would love to get a feel for it! thanks Michael L

Hi, After reading your observations about cats for offshore cruising we have started to rethink the one-year Pacific cruise we have been planning for our family (three adults, two children 11-13 ) starting next July. Any views on a Macgregor 65 as an alternative to a 40ft cat? Being UK sailors we haven’t come across these boats over here. Are they as fast and as tough as their supporters claim? Any comments will be very much appreciated. Thanks for a great site. Hugh & Deb

We have a Stoboom on our Bristol sloop and I would like to keep and maintain it for some time to come. When we bought the boat several years ago, the sage wisdom from the people we spoke with was to ditch the Stoboom and go back to a conventional boom/sail rig.

We have got used to using the Stoboom and really would like to keep it in good shape. Any idea where we might find a source of parts for it? We have been unable to find anything on the Internet or by contacting Hood. Also concerned about eventual deterioration of the sail track over time. Thanks. – Roger

A rigging question: What make (I assume ProFurl) and model furler would you recommend for our big reacher? The little Hood unit that was on the boat has a nice small headfoil for minimal windage but marginal drum capacity even at 5/16″ line for this big sail? These Spectra sheets and halyards are great! Have you had any problems with knots (bowlines) failing? Ref. June Sail magazine article. Thanks, Kurt

Hi, I often sail my C & C 30 shorthanded. The current sail inventory has a big honker symmetrical spinnaker. I would like to move to a crusing spinnaker and wondered about the viability of recutting the existing spinnaker. Is this possible or even recommended? Thanks, Dave

Dear Linda and Steve: Two years ago I bought a steel kit form Bruce Roberts to build a voyager 495 (L.O.A. 49 ‘- 4") With a longish keel.

About one year ago I bought, directly from you, your book and CD “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia” which, by the way, is the book I’ve have learnt more from. Pity I didn’t have it before.

You totally convinced me with what you say about mains with big roach. Apart from the technical explanations, your comments about them are: "There is absolutely nothing you can do to an older cruising boat that will increase performance as much as one of these sails, regardless of how much you are prepared to spend."

You have (or at least had) 82% of the rectangle of the luff and foot filled with sail in your actual boat BEOWULF and add “We now realize that we can go farther, adding more horsepower for little cost.”

Exactly two days ago I contacted Bruce Roberts (he is the one who really knows my boat) to ask him to produce me a new sail plan with a main of the same characteristic as the one you had on BEOWULF.

I’ve just been in your web site, as I wanted to buy some more books from you, and you can imagine my surprise when I’ve seen that you have just got a new main and mizzen of considerably different design than the original sails.

I’m really worried now: Have you found anything wrong with them? Could you tell me anything about the new design of your sails? I suppose you are very busy but I would be terribly grateful if you could answer me as soon as possible (the cheque to Mr Roberts has already been sent and now I don’t know whether I have to cancel the order).

All the best, Jose

I have enjoyed your site very much for a long time. Into the Light (by Dave & Jaja Martin) has been "the book" for me. Both have been a major help in turning me from dreamer to setting the goals and schedules to make it come true. An amazing content of worthwhile reading from all authors.

My wife and I are contemplating a charter from Puerto Vallarta to Cabo San Lucas April 15-21 and the Captain has been straightforward in saying it will be an upwind and uncomfortable passage. He adds that it is only 300 miles. He has now departed Natal and will be out of touch for a time. We are left wondering about how long the actual passage might be. We are willing to endure a bash for a few days but wish to be up for enjoying Cabo to the fullest also. As we don’t personally know anyone to ask I thought maybe SetSail could help. Any advice or even general opinions will be greatly appreciated. Till my next order, Thanks, Everett

Hello Steve, I am planning a single-handed voyage to the Med. and a few years cruising there before a return through the Caribbean and am looking for advice on the ideal self-steering set up for such a trip. So far it seems that a wind vane plus a tiller pilot to assist for motoring is a good choice. This would work well offshore as it allows me to get some sleep in a situation (offshore) where going a little off course doesn’t matter too much. Sailing in the Med however requires more reliable course keeping and my question is whether or not the tillerpilot attached to the windvane will fill the auto pilot needs for this situation. I realize that there is a lot of motoring in the Med.in the summer but when it isn’t calm it is often blowing very hard and I am not sure that the tiller-pilot driving the vane will be up for this in the autopilot mode. I’d be most interested in your thoughts on this. Primary steering on the boat is a wheel. Regards, David

Dear Steve and Linda: Having discovered SetSail site, I want to tell you what a terrific boat you have designed in the Wind Horse. What I found particularly interesting is your break up with the dominant design rules of cruising power boats, e.g., trawlers.

While my limited budget allows me only to dream of Wind Horse, I am myself involved with pushing ahead my own dreams of ocean cruising. Having known your work, I have already given up my trawler-oriented mindset and I am rethinking the entire issue considering the canoe-like hull proposition you so beautifully materialised in Wind Horse.

Having said this, I’d like to know your comments on two points.

-according to the equation of displacement hull speed (1.2 times sqrt water level length in feet, am I correct?), a 85 feet-long boat could achieve a max speed of around 11 knots. But boats often go far beyond these limits, as are good examples your own designs. So, I confess I’m puzzled. Could you, please, shed some light on the issue?

-have you ever considered adding lifting hydrofoils to your designs (I think about Wind Horse) not, of course, to turn them into 60-knot-out-of-the-water rocket-boats, but to reduce their displacement and wetted area by say, 30%, so increasing speed & range? I think of hydrofoils added, say, to the keel and skegs, in order to compensate for, say, 30% of the vessel’s weight, or displacement, and adding to stability as a bonus benefit. Is this way wrong? If so, could you point the problems with it?

Thank you for your attention. Best regards, Francisco

Steve…Your recommendation to look at CAL 48 and CAL 46-2 was received. You stated though that you prefer aft cockpit. This does make sense. Some aft cockpit designs are better then others. Could you make recommendations for an aft cockpit design that I should be looking at in a used boat that has a long waterline as well as seaworthy? All your help is much appreciated in my quest for a used blue water boat. Corey

Thanks Steve, for the comments on teak decks. I am just about to make an offer on an 85 ft Formosa, and I know the decks will need doing in a few years, so I will adjust my offer. The other misgiving I have is the 9′ 6″ draft. I sailed half way round the world a few years ago, going East. This time I am going through the Panama Canal and then the Pacific–could you comment on the draft , please? John

I own a Morris 486 which is equipped with a fully battened mainsail and a 100% roller furling Genoa Each is about 500 ft in area. I am interested in getting more performance in light winds, and was considering either a larger Genoa (135%) or a G-0 gennaker. Any input regarding the pros and cons of each? Conard

I am going to school on your experience. I am wanting to upgrade my windlass from an older AnchorMan that is better suited to line than the System 7 3/8th chain and 65-pound spade we have acquired.

I was intrigued by Maxwell’s offerings but their specs shown on the web seemed to indicate they support 3/8th SHORT chain? Have I missed something? The G-7 seems to have a diameter = .394", inside length = 1.23", inside width = .62".

Do you get a different chainwheel/gypsy? I saw a discounted Maxwell VW series 1200, but with a shorter chainweel/gypsy at my local chandlery that I would like to buy if it’s possible to get a chainwheel put in for the system 7 3/8th chain.

Does it make a difference where on the rode you attach a nylon snubber when anchoring? I would think that closest to the boat would be best – putting the snubber between most of the chain shock and the boat, but that would make it impossible to shorten your scope after setting the anchor. Suggestions? Mark L.

Dear Setsail, I’m in the process of speccing out the glazing for the pilothouse on the boat I am building. I have narrowed it down to either 1/2" tempered glass or 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate and am now looking for a little real world experience to tip the scale. One nagging doubt: the long-term durability of this product in the voyaging environment. I’ve read in your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia that you recommended and used polycarbonate on your sailing vessels, but noticed that you made the switch to glass in the FPB series. After walking the docks at the boat shows and talking to designers and builders of some of the high-end custom pilothouse and raised saloon boats, it seems they all are going with toughened glass, but none seem to have any direct experience with abrasion resistant polycarbonate. What’s your experience? Best regards, Collin

Hello Steve, I have been offered a really nice bare hull, but the mould for the deck is a center cockpit. I would like to build the boat as an aft cockpit. I could either build a deck in plywood and glass it on top afterward, but I wondered if I could build a deck in aluminum. This seems to me to be quite a good mix. Fiberglass below and aluminum above. This would suit me because I could leave it bare for non slip on the side decks and also I could build the hard dodger in aluminum. Do you think that the differential expansion between fiberglass on aluminum could cause a problem? I also wonder whether it might cause problems later with resale because it is so unconventional. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks, Howard

Dear Steve and Linda: In addition to the above I also have both (editions) of your Encyclopedias. I am using the latest Encyclopedia as a guide, as we design a 65 x 32 aluminum catamaran, which will draw two feet when fully loaded. It is being designed by Grant Robinson in St. Augustine, Florida. It is to be built by Topper Hermason of Amelia Island, Florida. Your Encyclopedia has been more than invaluable and so I bought it for Grant to serve as a basis to make sure we are clear on what we are discussing. Based on your writings, I am going to leave the vessel unpainted and ground to 120 grit. I plan to spend years in the Southwestern Pacific. I am very concerned about what deck temperatures I should expect with unpainted deck and hulls in the tropics. I know you are very experienced in this area and would appreciate your input. Do the decks get too hot for comfort? Are you still happy with an unpainted aluminum vessel? What temperature ranges should I expect the deck to reach given being in the tropics and on open seas? I do appreciate your taking time to respond to the above. I look forward to your next book, which I understand will be available within a short time. Sincerely, Bill

Dear Steve: I have just read your article in Practical Sailor’s latest issue regarding gear info after 38000 miles. In it you said you had a problem with your SGC 2000 HF radio and the Pactor II modem in trying to send e-mail. I own a 2 year old SGC 2000 with the new “Powertalk” remote head which I bought because it was supposed to be better for clear data transmission in poor conditions. You stated that the radio drifted off frequency (which obviously would mess up data transmission). Is this a problem with all models of SGC 2000 radios or a problem specific to your radio and/or model? I am just getting ready to purchase a Pactor II modem and get my radio set up for e-mail as my wife and I are preparing for a 2 year cruise on our Saga 43 from Maine to the Caribbean and then to the Azores and the Med. This problem with the SGC 2000 concerns me!! Should I sell it and get an ICOM 710 like everyone else?! Thanks for your comments, Frank

Steve, I’ve been reading your great site and wanted to ask a few questions/make a few comments. With ventilation systems (including conditioned air)? You don’t seem to use ducted systems, is there any reason for this? In my experience (non-marine), dual 6-inch (15cm) ducts would be adequate for the living area sizes you have. I’m not thinking of round ducts, but more a box section mounted in the ‘eaves’ area. Your thoughts? – Craig

Hello, Great site.

I will be joining some from friends that are cruising in the Galapagos next week. Can you tell me if there will be a problem cruising, hiking or diving without a guide ?

Thanks, Richard

We’ll be cruising the Caribbean, Bahamas, maybe Mexico for 6 months or more. I cannot get more than a 3-month supply of meds we take regularly before we leave. What will I need to get meds in those areas? Thank you. Claire

Hi. We are Dutch inhabitants, living in the Netherlands. We are building a 53ft sailingyacht by a Dutch yachtbuilder. Our purpose is to go living onboard and sailing all over the world.

1: Is it possible to registrate this yacht in the Channel Islands or elsewhere in the world.
2: Is it legal that the Dutch yachtbuilder can sell to us -or to our company- this yacht without paying VAT in the Netherlands or elsewhere in the EC. ( an VAT-0 option)
3: Is it necessary to start a company out there and how do we do this
4: Do you have experience with people who make arrangements for this
5: What is necessary to do so
6: What are the costs

Jaap en Renee from the Netherlands

Hello–My husband has gone off the “deep” end. He wants to sell everything we own and buy a 30-40′ sailboat and cruise the Pacific coast. I’m all for it, but I need to figure out how to prepare for an undertaking like this! Neither of us have ever sailed before, however, my husband is taking a 4-day ASA certification class in Seward, Alaska this summer and he has been commercial fishing in Alaska (Prince William Sound & Cook Inlet) for years. Please let me know of a book or a person who has gone from landlubber to sailor in a short period of time so I can start to figure out exactly what kinds of preparations we need to be making. The sooner the better–he wants to leave THIS summer! Thank you–Erin