Dear Madam, Sir, Two years ago, I ordered your Mariners Weather Book and read it. A compliment to your book. It is one of the best books, to learn maritime weather by sailors. On page 366, you refer about the Dvorak Technique to understand hurricane forecasting. Please give me the detailed information about this book: Where can I order it? What’s the price? Yours sincerely, A. Schroeder

Dear Steve, I am thinking of installing the Interphase http://www.interphase-tech.com/pcview.htm forward-scanning sonar on the steel 55′ sail boat that I am building. It would seem that every sail or power boat should have one of these in order to be able to see what lies ahead and to be able to avoid any obstacle. But so far I was not able to find anybody that has had any experience with it. So I am writing to you with a hope that in your research of the new electronics for your FPB you may have looked at Interphase sounders, or you may have heard from someone that used it. Would you please share your thoughts regarding this gear? – Remek

I would like to know what a raster chart is when speaking of GPS navigation. What is the alternative? Eddie

I’m building a 65′ Cruising Cat, and am at the beginning design stages with my designer. While he’s working on that, I’m doing the research for the nav functionality. I’m somewhat perplexed by the array of nav equipment available from the 6-10 major suppliers and how things will fit together along with the MaxSea software, so as to get maximum coverage AND integration. Should all the items come from a single source and, if so, which would you recommend in terms of reliability and repairablilty
considering the number of places one can find ones self while circumnavigating?

Dear Steve:

Thanks so much for your various books. I just finished devouring Practical Seamanship. I have gained greatly from reading and practicing the insights shared, particularly sail balancing and heavy weather techniques. When read in conjunction with the video’s, the books are even more informative.

I presently have a 461 Beneteau. I like it very much. My wife thinks it is a bit too sporty & light. We use it for coastal crusing (West coast). We are in the beginning process of evaluating boats which are better designed/ suited for passage making. Like most everyone, we would like to sail BEOWULF, or its equivilent, but it is not likely to ever be in reach of our budget. I personally would like a Sundeer 64, but it is uncertain whether one would become available, or be affordable. As with so many others who have written before me, I am seeking advice to help with my quest.

We are looking to spend $400-500,000. I had been thinking of the Amel Super Maramu 53, but after comparing its hull design to that of the Sundeers/Deerfoots, it appears more suited to light conditions. Others we have considered seemed a bit too beamy and/or had keel/rudder designs which were not conducive to surfing. Any thoughts on production/semi-custom boats that we should focus on? My inclination would be toward a ketch, but I’d be happy with a cutter rig.

Thanks again for sharing so much and considering my questions. Linda has been quite an inspiration for my wife, who really only likes warm days with the wind behind the beam.–Mark

I am seeking advice re the best choice for setting up an email account for use during my family’s upcoming sail around the world. My crew are my wife and two young daughters (5 and 8). We plan to depart in September 2003 from Groton CT aboard our Westsail 32. First of all, we plan to have a ham radio Winlink email address (if I can just carve out enough time to study for and take the tests!). But for sending and receiving photos and large attachments I gather that we should consider having an email address that we can access from Internet cafes and similar locations using our laptop. Do we need to have a subscription internet service provider that we would dial into from landlines at foreign ports? If so which is best? A free one like Hotmail (I think it’s free)? Or do we need to pay $10 to $20+ per month for an ISP like Earthlink or AOL? Do we simply need the email address and then plan to use the Internet cafe’s or other retail location’s internet service provider to gain access to the web. As you can tell, I am having trouble figuring all this out and would really appreciate your guidance as to whom we should contact for the best, most current advice. Thank you for whatever you can tell me to get us headed in the right direction.– Doug

Hi Steve, I don’t know if you covered this anywhere (couldn’t find it in your books, SetSail or in MaxSea) but I have to renew/upgrade my Radar. Obviously want to get one with Mini ARPA output for overlaying targets on MaxSea/charts. However, in addition, sailing mainly shorthanded, would like (need) to have chart, radar and overlays (if possible) on a repeater in the cockpit.

All the main Radar/Chart Plotter suppliers (Raymarine, Furuno etc.) don’t have any protocol for third party suppliers of chart software to repeat via their screens either main or repeater. As far as I found out so far, only RayTech Navigator (with additional Racing module upgrade) allows their propriety software to connect via their "Seatalk" or HSB and one (or more) of their Radar/Plotter displays.

In other words, it seems to me only Raymarine, if you buy their chart software cables, HSB or Seatalk etc. is able to achieve this desirable requirement. That would mean dumping MaxSea (of which I have an investment already) and going all RayMarine? (coincidentally I have all RayMarine ST 60’s instrumentation in the cockpit). All the other systems are capable of Radar/Plotter as main screen with repeaters (Furuno’s NavNet for example) in cockpit, but then you have to buy their cartridge Rom’s with the charts again and that would cost a fortune.

Any suggestions on how to "get repeated" in the cockpit without costing a fortune in waterproof tablet computers? Also, are there any Radars on the market which give a signal to operate on a PC/Laptop which could then be duplicated somehow to a screen in the cockpit (along with the chart plotting of course)? (what about using a PDA as a dumb terminal via wireless? bit small I know, but thinking of cost).

Appreciate your views/advice/knowledge on this subject. Kind regards/George W

Question regarding SSB vs. Iridium/Globalstar…..I read the nice item on Setsail.com on Iridium/Globalstar and agree that it is coming into vogue economically for data communications/e-mail, etc….It is definitely easier for everyone on board to use in a crunch. But don’t you lose the flexibility to participate in net calls, etc.? It seems that there are always tradeoffs…You can access SailMail via the Sat. phones, correct? Also, I’m upgrading my sailing info instruments (wind direction,speed,etc.). What are your thoughts on a good manufacturer of these items in reference to MaxSea interface? Thanks, Ed

In the Bernhardts’ April 01, 2001 discussion of their cruising budget, they state that they pay $2280 for medical insurance for the year for the whole family. I’d like to know which insurance company they use. Their boat insurance is fairly inexpensive also, since their cruising area includes Europe…Love this site. Thanks. Claire D

Hi, I am enjoying reading our book “Surviving the Storm”. I know you could not cover all the topics, and I have not read the whole book yet, but I could not find data or reference to world storm patterns. If one was chicken, and wanted to avoid category two and three heavy weather storms (page 16), what cruising routes could be planned, and where not to be at what time of year? I recall some published charts that show wind direction and speed at various locations. What about information on routes and the best time of the year to avoid bad storms. Could you name a few good sources for me. I get the hint that New Zealand is risky at best. If I missed this information in your book, please let me know where it is located. Thanks, Mike

I found your web site today and was fascinated with all the possibilities. We are in the process of buying a 42′ cat and will be sailing from the US East Coast through the Panama Canal and out to the South Pacific and points beyond. The boat does not have anything other than self steering and basic instruments and we would like to equip with radar, gps, plotter, etc…running into a PC and of course not spend a fortune. What would you suggest as someone who obviously has a great deal of experience? The route plotting seems like a great idea and we will have a sat phone but are unsure about a SSB. Thanks, David

Linda & Steve, In your recent article on the new passage planning software (I hope to see more on this later) you made a comment regarding downloading weather forecast data during your passage. What method do you use to access internet at sea?? Regards, Mark

Steve: A new Iridium Satellite LLC has just announced on CNBC that these satellites are back in business with coverage over 100% of the globe. Great for offshore roaming types. Phone cost looks like $1500US for the handset, which accepts on-line data. I don’t have info about operating costs. Regards, DM

Could you…let me know what info should be included in a ship log, or send over an example? Lisa P.

I’m fascinated by your comments about Globalstar–do you think it’s a viable option for our cruise despite the company’s problems? I’m reluctant to buy a $1000 SSB modem if we can get satellite service instead…Best regards, Candace

Firstly, let me say how much I am enjoying your books, Mariner’s Weather Handbook and Surviving the Storm. For anyone with the slightest interest in the weather around them and in taking a boat to sea, they are excellent reading. However, I do have a couple of queries:

On page 340 of the ‘Mariner’s Weather Handbook’ you show three photographs of tropical revolving storms, when and where they should not be, one off Angola (West Africa) in April 1991 and two of one storm in the Eastern Mediterranean in January (no year mentioned). It is my understanding that no tropical revolving storms have ever been reported in the South Atlantic (until now) and that the sea temperatures in the Eastern Mediterranean in January are certainly not high enough for cyclogenesis nor is the ITCZ anywhere near the Mediterranean. Have you any explanation for these phenomena and/or a year for the Mediterranean storm (I would like to research past meteorological records to find what conditions actually existed in the latter case).

I look forward to your reply, Brent

I am thinking of changing my fixed three-bladed prop for something that causes less drag. The Autoprop from Brunton’s Propellers seems very interesting. What do you know about it? P.S. Your Encyclopedia is a fantastic source of knowledge!

Steve – I am preparing to install an anchor windlass on my light displacement 43′ sloop. Primary anchor is a 45# CQR with 75′ of 3/8 HT chain + 250′ 5/8" nylon rode. Secondary anchor is a Fortress FX-37 with 25′ of 3/8 HT chain + rode. I will carry a 100# Luke storm anchor. My question is how to manage multiple anchor lines/chains with a single windlass. I would prefer a low profile vertical windlass to keep weight down and stay out of the foredeck crew’s way when racing, and am willing to live with rope/chain splice and redoing same when any splice wear starts to show. But I do not believe this will enable handling two anchor rodes? Adding a drum to the vertical windlass will handle the second rope rode, but not the chain. What do you suggest? Thank you. – Bill

Hi Steve: I’m interested in rigging a timer to my anchor light so I don’t burn it during the day when I’m away from the boat. Are you aware of any 12V timers I could put in the line to the light or another way to skin this cat? Thank you, Tom

Hi Steve, Absolutely the best investment I have made before going full time cruising is your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. However I am hoping you can elaborate on one small statement that I keep coming back to, and it has a major bearing on the type of yachts we are looking at purchasing. As you’re aware, there are many more fibreglass boats to choose from, even in the South Pacific where steel is reasonably popular choice. Which seems to confirm your statement that "on average 1 in 12 yachts that spend more than 2 years in the South Pacific basin ends up on a reef permanently". As I am looking at the South Pacific, the Great Barrier Reef, and the archipelago of Western Australia’s Kimberley Coast – much of which is still not charted – as the areas we most wish to spend our time. I had resigned my looking to steel or aluminium yachts, however I have found a strongly built balsa cored 40′ cruising yacht that I particularly like, but I keep thinking about those reefs and rocks. Any more information you can give me or direct me to in helping me make a decision on whether to buy this yacht or keep looking would be very much appreciated. Regards, Peter

My basic question to you is in regard to my sanity along with that of my wife…We are dreaming of sailing, selling the house, sticking a chunk of money in an untouchable fund (for our eventual return in 10-15 years) and launching. But, we don’t just want to buy some fiberglass yogurt container for our trip. That would not fit our style. We want to build our yacht ourselves. I do have an engineering degree (although I have not used it) and an MBA (definitely a negative). My wife is a graphic artist with experience in interior design. Well, here is my plan. Is this do-able??????

1) Create detailed specifications and drawings of what I want. I am 50% there now after many drawings. (FYI: 55′-65′ modern aluminum hull, deck to include a classic pilot house and a sloping sheer line, modern schooner rig with marconni aft and gaff fore sail. Fore and aft cabins, bulkheads fore and aft with a water-tight, center, engine room. It should have a fin keel and a skeg hung rudder. Goal: Long-range, comfortable, easy-to-sail, high-safety factor, classic looking schooner built with modern components.)

2) Hand my plans/specs to a qualified naval architect/engineer to create the actual designs. IMPORTANT: Architect should have proven ability to produce complete “CUT” files for all Ribs, Stringers and Hull Plates. Complete hull.

3) Have these “CUT” files delivered to an Aluminum fabricator in the Austin/Houston area for CNC cutting.

4) Deliver these “puzzle” pieces to my enclosed shop for build.

5) Use certified welders (myself included), friends, family and an experienced boat-building consultant (can be remote) to assemble the hull.

6) Select components and build-out the remainder of the yacht using friends and family. Did I mention budget…Can I get the DESIGNS with CUT files under $20K??? My hopes for the entire project cost would be in the $150K range. (tools and facilities not included) I see that you have used experienced boat yards for all of your builds. Even with your experience you choose to leave the assembly to others. So, am I attempting something that I shouldn’t? I don’t think so, but then again, I have never build a boat before…other things, but not a blue-water home for my family. Any advise, suggestions or a sanity check would be greatly appreciated. Sincere Thanks, Andy

I read the article about Beowulf in Yachting magazine and I really liked it. The approach you took when designing this boat is how it should be. I’m really interested in a different boat. I’m a young man around 30 years old, have a small construction firm. We build large residential houses. And I have a dream. I would like to sail the world for five to ten years. When I came out of the university, three of my friends and I were an inch away from buying a boat and leaving. Something happened with one of us and we didn’t go. The dream is still there. We all took jobs and started our careers and our plans were put aside. Until we read this article. What I’m interested in is why you choose aluminum and, since we are four people, is it smart to increase the sail area? I still have more technical questions but I will ask them in time. We also would like to know what kind of budget you worked with (to see if it is possible for us to want a boat like yours). Can you split it up into: Hull, rigging/sails, interior, equipment, design cost. Thanks. -Sjors

A technical question: With AT&T going out of the high seas phone business, what would you recommend for someone heading offshore for e-mail and voice transmission? My friend…is taking his Swan 47 into the Pacific and is interested in your answer, as am I (more generally). Regards, John

Love your book which we refer to regularly. We have a motorsailer with an electric fridge which is not very efficient in our hot Australian climate. We have to run the generator almost constantly. We are not big fans of gas because of the dangers associated with it. Electrolux make a dual electric/kerosene fridge which we are contemplating. Could you please share your thoughts on kerosene fridges? Many thanks, Sally Luttrell.

You mentioned in a recent article you used a pocket camera on the docks. I am an amateur photographer and interested in which camera you carry as you walk the dock and what camera equipment you use to take the other beautiful pictures as you cruise. What did you use to take the whale and Baja pictures? I would also like to say I enjoy your website and appreciate you maintaining it. Dan

Hi there, I’m a sailor from Holland and am reading Mariners Weathers Handbook. Very useful information! My question is if there is a sailing dictionary, because in the normal dictionaries most of the words I look for I can’t find. My regards, Adger H.

Could you…let me know what info should be included in a ship log, or send over an example? Lisa P.

Continuing to enjoy and absorb the Encyclopedia…that photo just inside the front cover of BEOWULF (it must be BEOWULF because of the unpainted hull) rafted up with what looks like another Deerfoot is quite striking…what is the other vessel please? Just curious…Also, would like your advice on what precautions I should take as a prospective crewman on a new 47-footer leaving NYC on 12/1 for the BVI, possibly by way of Bermuda…what would you want to know from the skipper before taking on this crew slot and before actually embarking? I already know he wants to share food expenses and I am responsible for any personal expenses…and he has already said the vessel will meet solas standards for safety by time of departure, and has said he has bluewater experience in and around the Bahamas and Puerto Rico…What other concerns would you want clearly understood before embarking?Thanks, Richard

Dear Steve, We have a 60′ steel PH cutter, mast is 76′ off the water. We have had two back to back strikes, one year apart. The first strike took out the Icom VHF, the Simrad instruments and the autopilot. Just after the new electronics was installed (I literally mean 3 days), the boat took a hit at the yard in the water. The second strike took out the VHF again, and so far, the Charles Marine Isolation transformer (it was tied to dock power at the time). No other damage has been noted, and I am convinced that the strikes were well dissipated throughout the mast and hull.

Question: If I install the pom pom at the mast head, does it reduce the efficiency of the VHF antenna also on the masthead? Also, what kind of pom pom do you suggest? The electronics technician told me he could see a burn on a bolt head at the masthead where he thought the lightning bolt jumped from the antenna and ran down the mast. As a side note: both antennas were fried and literally exploded.

Thanks a million for the website, a tremendous resource.

Am refitting a Cherubini 44 ketch (engine, tank, wiring cosmetics, etc.). At this point I would very much appreciate any info or source information regarding integral fuel (diesel) tanks. I am considering placement in the keel aft of the sealed ballast section. Is there any long term deleterious effect on the hull glass? Thanks in advance for your attention and effort. Needless to say, I have read the encyclopedia, storm tactics, SetSail info, etc. Great resources. Pete

Hi Steve: I have read, with a great deal of interest, several of your publications. Being interested in yacht design, I have learnt much from them. I am interested in the water ballast system you have installed in BEOWULF. It puzzles me that these water ballast systems use only sea water. Why not use the fuel and potable water that is already on board and move that around? BEOWULF would have some 12,000 lbs of combined fuel and water if all tankage was full. Why increase displacement by bringing on board an extra (up to) 7,000 lbs of salt water? The extra displacement will increase absolute stability, but is this necessary particularly when it is at the cost of added hull resistance? There could be separate ballast tanks to carry sea water when potable water and fuel are low. I would imagine there would be a case for the use of already on board fuel and water. Would you agree? Is there a reason you don’t do this? Also, would it make sense to install ballast tanks well aft, say in the stern, so as to adjust the fore and aft trim in heavy downwind/surfing conditions to keep the bow/cutwater out off the water to mitigate broaching tendencies? Many Thanks, Henry

You talked about an oil sipper for the engine block breather. Can you tell me more about this? I found one made by Racor. We would like to put one on our universal 32 hp. Thanks, D.M.

Hello Dashews- Got your letter about the weather book. I have a question: Can I interpret the meteorology around me with the help from this magic book of yours, WITHOUT assist from electronics like weather faxes and other fancy modernities? Is it enough with your book, thermometer (showing Celsius of course), a barometer and some bottles of nice wine? Regards from Sweden, Sigge

Hi Steve, I’ve read your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and Surviving the Storm ( both are fantastic) and have some questions about a particular boat I’m considering. It’s a 78 Doug Peterson design, 43′ IOR. It’s beamy (13′ 3"), 7′ 9" draft, 17,500 #’s with 9,000#’s ballast, fin keel, spade rudder. No trunk cabin or pilothouse. I read in the encyclopedia your warnings about "later" IOR boats……does this qualify? I’ve been unable to personally view the boat and can only rely on pictures, but it seems to have more in common with your designs in terms of hull shape and lines than, for instance, Neil Hunter’s Farr 40 Around Alone boat (it was for sale awhile back). Not near as shallow as the Farr. The Peterson has what appears to be a relatively fine bow/entry angle, a bit more overhang there than I’d like though. The big draw for me is the fact that it’s aluminum construction (the interior is somewhat spartan/exposed, and resembles the longitudinal and athwartships framing from your designs) and would afford me more piece of mind in terms of any changes and/or additions I would make in the future. It also appears to have more in the way of topsides than later IOR’s. I have a number of other questions, but I’ll stop for now. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Jeff

Hi Steve. Recently, we talked about a Cal46-2 as a cruising boat for a retired couple. What do you think about the CSY-44? It looks like there are more of those out there and they are priced in my price range. Sidney

I have for two years been cruising my Hylas 46, and have realized it is not the boat I need to continue cruising. I believe one of your Deerfoot series, ideally a 61 would serve me better. Do sellers go solely to brokers or do they sometimes ask if you know of a prospective purchaser? Do they often come on the market? I realize the last question is probably often asked and a generalization is difficult. If you have the time to reply I would appreciate it.–Mike Parker

I am considering the purchase of a 63′ vessel which is located in Rhode Island (I happen to live in Portland, Oregon). I am including a link to the broker’s listing for her and, if you have a moment, would appreciate your thoughts. The owner says he has been aboard BEOWULF, so you may have seen his boat, also.

Any thoughts or comments will be appreciated. What I’m looking for is a boat two people can sail. This one would take some work to get there, but it seems like it could be possible…

I have become somewhat obsessed with her, but am not sure it would be in my best interest to get involved. She seems like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity…Built to a high standard, to withstand sailing in the Southern Ocean. Fast, lots of interior room to setup for live-aboard. The structural advantages of aluminum.

I’m looking for honest, direct thoughts.

Dear Steve, Thank you for taking the time to read our email. We are selling our home to buy a yacht to cruise the oceans to enjoy our time together. I’m a marine mechanic specializing in power boat refits. I have limited sailing experience and Karen has even less.

We are currently shopping for a yacht with the intentions of learning on the boat we will be cruising on. We have your books and recently purchased a video you appear in (Heavy Weather Sailing), we found it all very exciting and informative. We are planning on spending the next year or three learning and doing all the necessary courses to become competent offshore sailors.
The yachts we are looking at are mainly masthead rigs but we have come across a fractional (Farr 1104) which shows a lot of potential as a cruiser/live-on.

Although you suggest water length to be main consideration, this is the largest within our price range. I am aware of the sailing differences between fractional and masthead after reading your books, but I have no experience sailing on fractional rigs and am not sure of the difference of rig strength.

The type of yachts we are looking at are:

Duncanson 35′ Masthead
Northshore 33′ Masthead
Farr 36′ Fractional

Just once again thank you for your time and valued advice. – Alen S

Steve, I kept your 2 big books (Cruising Encyclopedia and Weather book) on the shelf, frankly afraid of them: they are so big, they intimidated meÉ So I kept reading smaller, easier to finish books for the past 3 years. Finally I gathered the courage to open your cruising encyclopedia and now I canÕt put it down: I donÕt even play spades on the computer anymore.

The fact is that I closed today on my first "big boat", is a 1989 Hylas 44, called Delta Tango, soon to be named "Alegria". I stopped working (or maybe my companyÕs business decided to slow down to the point that it stopped me) and plan to prepare to sail with her (my wife and Alegria) for the rest. Will shake down to Bermuda and BVI, afterwards going anywhere but including Alaska, Hawaii, Palmyra, Tonga, Tahiti, Western Europe, etc. I am 54, have some time to cruise, hopefully. Your book provides me with a lot of info that I intend to use to equip, improve and secure her. Your first advice in the book (donÕt start buying things and changing them around until you sailed for a while) is great advice. But hard to follow by someone like me who is always trying to improve things (and people, just ask my wife and kids!).

I called Hood and they prepared an estimate on a Vektron Main, reacher, stay sail and storm main. Initially I thought on getting the main (full batten, 5 of them), to go over the back stay, then I chicken out, now I am back on the first idea, making it elliptical, overlapping the back stay by some 8 inches. If it chafes, I guess I can cut it down to regular size. This is not a particulary fast boat, so I need all the sail I can get. I talked to the riggers at Nance & Ubderwood to build the baby stay and runners. Thank you for any advice you can give me. Regards, Pablo

Dear Steve and Linda: Cate and I were arguing last night about sailing w/o a main. She thinks that it can damage the rig. My not-so-engineering mind didn’t think so provided there was plenty of backstay support. Saw a few illustrations in Surviving the Storm where boats were sailing w/o a main. What do you think?

We recently finished a circumnavigation and currently have our boat in Mexico for needed upgrades. We are looking at replacing the dodger as well as the bimini and main sail cover. I would like to know if their have been any advances in regards to fabric and materials. Here’s my question: With regard to dodger windows, I do not want to end up with the plastic that turns yellow after a couple of years. We early on had clear plastic that seemed to last long but it could not be rolled, which is fine. Do you know what this "clear plastic glass" is called and any sources to check into? We really would like to get good quality dodger windows that will hold up and not turn yellow Also, I would love to have white mainsail cover and bimini, but I am very nervous about the dirt and grime and keeping them clean. Are there any new (sunbrella type) fabrics that will be UV resistant as well as easy to wash and clean? – Cynthia

Dear Mr. Dashew, I have owned a copy of your original Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia for several years and refer to it constantly. I have grown to respect your perspective and advice, and follow it most of the time. The best advice you have given that I followed was regarding the WH Autopilot. We have a Westsail 43 (beam 13′, WL 33.3′, displacement 18 tons, full keel, tall rig) and have run off in 40+ knot winds and quartering seas for six days and never touched the helm. I have been very interested in your philosophy about sail design and am in need of new sails. I would appreciate your advice about A full batten, large roach main sail for my boat. I fear that this kind of sail on my boat may be like putting a Ferrari engine in a tractor. We currently have a no-batten main and have had good luck with it especially when reefing off the wind. Due to our tall rig we must reef early. I fear this may be a problem with a full batten large roach main. I have considered putting a tacking reef in this type of sail so that in short tacking situations I could reef in order for the roach to clear the backstay. I am sure that you are very busy, but I would really like to have your opinion on this subject.

Thanks for a great publication. Sincerely, Ron G., Baja, Mexico

Hi: Some time ago, I purchased your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Recently I have been searching in it for a reference for heaving to or laying to. I can find none. Here is my problem: I am having difficulty in getting my 48 ft Mayflower ketch to heave to or lay to the wind. I tried placing the headsail to windward, the main amidship, and the rudder hard to leeward. It does not work. I have placed the main to windward, the mizzen amidships, and the rudder hard to leeward. This causes the boat to head about 120° apparent. Placing the full mizzen amid ship with about a yard of main amidship results in movement from about 0° to 90°. The movement without the main is slightly more violent. I would appreciate any ideas that you could give me on how to solve this problem in all kinds of weather, but of course, heavy weather is the condition that bothers me the most. Thank you, John.

Hi, My wife and I are looking at buying a 65′ steel hull motorsailor that is not finished. By that I mean all that’s there is a complete hull with two engine rooms. If we buy we will most likely put in Perkins 135 hp engines as that is the design called for. My question today is about steering. The boat weighs at full load 96000 lbs. The rudder is a big one – 16’x14’x6′ and weighs 500 lbs. I know very little about hydraulic steering but that seems to be what most of the shipyard managers whom I’ve talked to suggest. Which make would you recommend as being able to add to it, if and when the situation arises? And which has a back-up in case of power loss? Or which could work on batteries vs engine power? And where can I find this information written down (on the page or the web)? Thanks, Rod and Lucy

Re: your article in Cruising World some editions ago concerning crossing a harbour bar. As a last advice there could be the option of using a drogue from the stern for stabilizing reasons (I also use a drogue as a steering device).

What do you think about this? The first one who mentioned this method was Captain Voss in 1901 (in “The Venturesome Voyages Of Captain Voss). Best Wishes Yours, Jens

I noticed that your boats keep getting bigger and bigger. What do you consider the best minimum size for cruising? My dream is to sail down the coast of California to Mexico, Panama Canal, Caribbean, and then Greece, Italy, France, and England. Thanks for writing what looks like a wonderful book. Sincerely yours, Sal

Hi ya: For years we have lusted after your boats (Wiroa was one) but couldn’t afford them. Our own boat Gungha (Alan Buchanan design in steel, round slack bilge’s and overhangs) was getting too small. We owned her and lived on board for 21 years.

Last year we were lucky to change boats and boat designs. The new boat is a Birdsall 60. She really is the boat of our dreams. Heaps of space, stable and fast-as. I can’t think of anything about the layout or performance of the boat that I could criticize. We have just made our first offshore passage from NZ to Tonga with heavy weather and she went like the clappers. So no problem there. There is however a problem of lingering doubt vis-à-vis the design.

I have been used to the deep draft and 45% ballast ratio of Gungha (nice and rolly). I always knew that if she was capsized she’d snap back upright in moments. I know you’re probably familiar with the Birdsall designs, as they resemble your own in some aspects. This yacht is 63′ on deck, 60′ at the waterline. She has a 14’10” beam which is carried aft but certainly not forward (very narrow there) and she has a 6′ draft.

The yacht is single chine steel with a long (about 17′ fore and aft) fin keel and a skeg-supported spade rudder. The hull of the yacht draws a little over 2′ with the keel making up the rest of the draft. The yacht is double-bottomed fully with welded in tanks, which hold a total of 800 gallons of fluids. The deck plate and all construction techniques have concentrated all the weight as low as possible. The yacht has a center cockpit and trunk cabin with considerable buoyancy.

My problem is this. The yacht is adequately stiff even in hard conditions but…she only has 4 tons of ballast. Her total shipyard weight is 27 tons. What do you think of that and her ability to be tipped over????? We have sailed over 60,000 miles and prior to that I was a commercial fisherman in Alaska…Am I getting paranoid in my old age?

Thanks and cheers, Mike

Dear Dan, I am looking at sails for extended cruising. I wonder if you have any experience/views on Hydra-net from Dimension polyant. Your book has been very helpful already and will be coming sailing to help with repairs! Yours sincerely, Bruce C

What kind of prop do you use on BEOWULF and is it a feathering prop or folding? I know that you do motor sail and I wonder how you came to the size and pitch that you needed for the boat. I also liked the Bermuda story about the weather, you made a very good move by moving to a new location, it could have been a bad situation had you not moved. Good Sailing, Gary H

Dear Steve Dashew, Many thanks for the fine web postings on the new powerboat. I have a question regarding your anchoring setup. How do you maintain the strength of the G7 chain through your shackle attachment to the Bruce? Do you have ACCO install an oversized link and use, say, a 5/8" shackle? Or do you have a source for high-test shackles? I am building a 19m powercat designed by Malcolm Tennant to be launched early ’06. See you in Patagonia! Thank you, Bill

Hi Steve, My name is Ethan Smith. I’ve got the Ovni 36 “Eyoni” across the basin from Beowulf. We spoke briefly before I bought it. I was fortunate enough to receive both the Encyclopedia and Surviving the Storm for Xmas. Yea me. Both a hugely informative and exceptionally well done, my complements. In your anchoring section in the Encyclopedia, you mention moving to high test and a smaller link and making up the difference (or some of it) in anchor weight & rode length. I’m in the process of redesigning the anchoring system on Eyoni and want to know, in your opinion, if 1/4 HT (G-4) is adequate in terms of swl and breaking strength (schedule 70 better?) for a cruising setup for Eyoni? She is of moderate windage and has a design displacement of 12,500 lbs. The boat currently has 200′ of 3/8 PC with is less than ideal. I had initially leaned towards 5/16 BBB or HT – do I sacrifice much by giving up the higher ultimate breaking strength of the (non-HT) larger links? We made it to San Miguel Is. for the first time on our recent 9 day holiday cruise. It was warm and flat as a lake! Thanks for your time and expertise. Hope to see you on the water soon. Sincerely, Ethan

Hi Steve Any suggestions for a leaky goit deck hatch (the one under the vang)…thinking of putting some wet suit neoprene in the gasket…Very annoying, Phil

Greetings to you from Vanuatu…We are leaving Paradise in December to return to NZ to find a boat to go cruising for the next three to five years. All going well, we will do a circumnavigation. We are interested in steel boats and I was wondering if you could recommend the best book I could read on steel construction techniques–with a view particularity to proven or recognized standards. Also, do you know of a good steel surveyor in Auckland who could give us an opinion on one boat in particular that we are interested in at present. The reason I ask is because we have had several opinions so far and they are all conflicting!!! Many thanks for your help. Keep up the good work! Gary

We cruised the Pacific for 5 years from LA to NZ, Japan & Aleutians with a standard s/s frame & Sunbrella soft dodger. Our boat is center cockpit, glass construction.

I’m looking for suggestions on materials and approach to getting a hard dodger built–and looking less ugly than most. A friend used 1/8″ ply with glass & epoxy on his s/s dodger frame but this core bends in only 1 direction and is hard to form-fit. I’m wondering if aluminum is a better choice.

I’d like an opening in the front but nothing hinged–more like a removable panel that can be swapped with a panel of standard dodger window material. Zippers can leak under pressure–so a zippered panel might not be the answer? Any suggestions appreciated.

Dear Steve: I have just read your article in Practical Sailor’s latest issue regarding gear info after 38000 miles. In it you said you had a problem with your SGC 2000 HF radio and the Pactor II modem in trying to send e-mail. I own a 2 year old SGC 2000 with the new “Powertalk” remote head which I bought because it was supposed to be better for clear data transmission in poor conditions. You stated that the radio drifted off frequency (which obviously would mess up data transmission). Is this a problem with all models of SGC 2000 radios or a problem specific to your radio and/or model? I am just getting ready to purchase a Pactor II modem and get my radio set up for e-mail as my wife and I are preparing for a 2 year cruise on our Saga 43 from Maine to the Caribbean and then to the Azores and the Med. This problem with the SGC 2000 concerns me!! Should I sell it and get an ICOM 710 like everyone else?! Thanks for your comments, Frank

Hi, have enjoyed reading your books. Was wondering what kind of bedding you use for circumnavigation taking in all the elements? Also, what kind of storage containers do you recommend for rice, flour, sugar etc…that last and keep things fresh? Thanks for the info…Jim

Hello, Because I am changing the interior of my wooden Van de Stadt Pacific sailing vessel I have to make several choices. Therefore I am happy with the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia because it is based on experience and that is what I need. It is my intention to install a hot water heating system and in the encyclopedia is mentioned a Teledyne system what would be a better system in comparison with Webasto, which I know well. Is it possible to send me an e-mail adress from Teledyne because I like to know more about the system.I was not succesful in finding Teledyne on the internet, and I am sure you can help me. Thank you very much in advance. Greetings, Paul

I’m retiring and thinking of sailing. I’m a Alaskan sailor all my life…but im thinking of US- VI or South Florida. I’ve fished all my life off boats that make so much noise you can’t think. A catamarn sounds like my kind of boat. What do you think? Can a guy figure on living free at $30,000 a year? I have no bills and no wife nor kids. At 56 it’s time to get a tan. Any commments? – Jim

My dream has been to make a passage across the Atlantic and some extended cruising. Over the years this has been out of the realm of possibility because, well, I couldn’t afford more than a used sunfish (hard to sleep on and no head). Well, now I have been given a Tylercraft T26 it’s a fairly heavy 26′ 2" 4-foot draft iron keel boat. It was built in 1975 and the standing rigging was replaced 7-8 years ago. In the electronics dept it’s well equipped (radar etc.). I’m going to have to rework the cabin and have looked at improving it’s seaworthiness ( decreasing cockpit volume increasing scupper volume etc.) Do you have any thoughts on a boat of this size and blue water sailing with the caveat that I would carefully plan routes, seasons, to pick the best times and latitudes to travel? Thanks! Nathan F.

Hello Next year I am sailing to Cape Horn on a Bristol Pilot Cutter. I am currently reading the second edition of your brilliant book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia–it is providing me with so much information and inspiration. Thank you. However I would love to get hold of the first edition of this excellent book–do you have any for sale or any idea how I could do this? I would really appreciate your advice on this. Thanks again for writing the book. love Emma M

Dear sailing friends, Steve and Linda, My family lived and cruised aboard the S/V White Cloud for many years. We were involved in a marine business and basically the most enjoyable years we can remember.

My son is completing the rebuilding of a West Sail 32 here in Fairbanks and plans to rejoin the sailing life in a couple more years. My daughter also is trying to rejoin however she has home schooled her 6 children in the Bush of Alaska and now two of the 6 are in a high school and honor students.

This request is for her use: Which one of your books will specifically address family concerns that a mother and father of 6 share, i.e., inoculations requirements, money exchanges, children’s education, activities and in general, home and family activities. Obviously, from her present experience years of bush living and successful home schooling, she already has most of the skills. She desires the confidence ( and her husband) from people That we from the sailing/cruising community, recognize as being successful.

So you have a rather long winded thing in way of background. Her (Cara) 36th birthday is fast approaching and hopefully you may have a word or two as a suggestion for me to purchase.

Sincerely with thanks, Paul C. (former Skipper S/V White Cloud from Juneau)

PS: I’m redoing an old Tartan 27T to trailer to the warmer climites for winters in retirement

1. Piracy during our trip. As I mentioned we will have 2 small children and I'm not sure what to expect or what the best plan is to avoid problems.

2. Harley. How do we best prepare for bringing a pet into foreign countries?

3. Your opinion on cruising rallies to hook up with throughout our voyage? That's it for now. Cheers, Tom

Hi there. We are currently assisting friends to ready their vessel on which we are crewing for the passage from New Zealand to Fiji. We are installing an ICOM 710 SSB, however, as the yacht is of aluminum construction we have run into the interesting question of how to safely earth the radio. We have had a variety of suggestions made to us but would be keen for your advice. Looking forward to hearing from you. Many thanks, Jan

Do you have any experience or knowledge about using Ericson Safety Pumps for damage control? I’ve searched through your books and only found engine-mounted pumps. The Ericson is a prop shaft-mounted pump that runs dry until it contacts water. I would like to know if there are obvious downside factors to using such a system. Thanks, Frank M

I live in Alaska and have been doing a fair amount of work on refitting our 20 year old fiberglass cutter. Electrical, mechanical etc. I purchased new set of tools dedicated to the boat so it means keeping the tools on the boat.

My problem some of my tools are starting to show signs of tarnish ( early rust ) I use them quite a bit. And put them away after every project. Do you recommend something to keep them from rusting. Wd40? Thanks for attending to this “basic” question.–Mark

I have a Powersurvivor 80 II. On board I go well at 13 liters per hour. I was thinking of upgrading. Do you have any recommendations? I have a 3.5kw inverter (trace) run 230v 50hz and 24 vdc.

Good Morning Steve and Linda: I try to read everything that either of you write and have ALL of the books. However, in sailing TIMING is everything as you know. Vicki and I have a 1998 Valiant 42 built for us in Texas. We have dear friends, Joe and Pam Harris from Durham. They have the Sundeer 60. We are to meet them in Crete in the Fall of 2003.

WHEN SHOULD I LEAVE FOR CRETE AND WHAT IS THE BEST ROUTE? I’m retiring in June of 2003 and will have a lot of time to get there. This might be a good article to look into as I’m probably not the only one to run across this problem. Any books that you recommend will be read. Thanks and keep up the good work–GURU–you’ve never let me down. Roy

Gooday–Looking for a web site dedicated to info on offshore sailing. I am a novice thinking of sailing Victoria, Canada to Mexico then across the Pacific to New Zealand with all the stops. Need to to know the right time of year and all that stuff. Please respond. Regards, Gaz.

Hi, I have an oceangoing motor yacht designed for ocean crossing and heavy coastal work. The weather routing techniques we would use are different from the techniques a sailing yacht would use. For example, we would tend to motor through the middle of a high for calm seas and light winds, rather than try to pick a path around with the strong and steady prevailing winds abaft the beam. How useful is the Mariner’s Weather Handbook for me? I don’t want to pay out that kind of money for a book, only to find that it is predominantly aimed only at sailing yachts. Thanks for giving me your honest view.

I recently looked at a 1972 Hardin Force 50 to purchase. She has seen considerable blue water and appears to be a comfortable liveaboard. Some cosmetic work is needed, along with new sails. While I intend to have a complete survey done, I want to learn what I can about the vessel construction and/or design before jumping in. There doesn’t seem to be much info out there–can you help me? Thanks.

I HAVE NARROWED MY SEARCH…CAL 2-46, CAROFF GALAPAGOS 50 STEEL KETCH, GARDEN PORPOISE 50 OR WELLINGTON 47. I AM GOING TO CRUISE THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR 2-3 YEARS. ALL CAN BE OUTFITTED TO GO FOR ABOUT THE SAME DOLLAR AMOUNT. I LIKE THE LOOKS OF THE WELLINGTON,BUT HAVEN’T A CLUE AS I HAVE NEVER SEEN ONE. I WILL INSTALL MAXSEA-YACHT. PLEASE TELL ME ABOUT WELLINGTON YACHTS AS I CAN’T FIND THEM ON THE INTERNET. ALSO WOULD LIKE TO KNOW YOUR CHOICE OF THE FOUR BOATS GIVEN THAT THEY ARE EQUAL IN ELECTRONICS, SAILS ETC. THANK YOU GARY

A quick review of your recommended cruising boats was interesting, but I was surprised to see the absence of the Tayana 42, 48, 52, and 55. I mention this as many brokers have said they are desirable, well-built cruising boats with reasonable pricing. While the designers encompass Harris(42) , Perry(48&52) and unknown(55), your comments are appreciated. I’m sure you have come across these boats. I omitted the Perry designed 37 Tayana as it has a bowsprit. Thank you, David