Dear Madam, Sir, Two years ago, I ordered your Mariners Weather Book and read it. A compliment to your book. It is one of the best books, to learn maritime weather by sailors. On page 366, you refer about the Dvorak Technique to understand hurricane forecasting. Please give me the detailed information about this book: Where can I order it? What’s the price? Yours sincerely, A. Schroeder

Dear Steve, I am thinking of installing the Interphase http://www.interphase-tech.com/pcview.htm forward-scanning sonar on the steel 55′ sail boat that I am building. It would seem that every sail or power boat should have one of these in order to be able to see what lies ahead and to be able to avoid any obstacle. But so far I was not able to find anybody that has had any experience with it. So I am writing to you with a hope that in your research of the new electronics for your FPB you may have looked at Interphase sounders, or you may have heard from someone that used it. Would you please share your thoughts regarding this gear? – Remek

I would like to know what a raster chart is when speaking of GPS navigation. What is the alternative? Eddie

I’m building a 65′ Cruising Cat, and am at the beginning design stages with my designer. While he’s working on that, I’m doing the research for the nav functionality. I’m somewhat perplexed by the array of nav equipment available from the 6-10 major suppliers and how things will fit together along with the MaxSea software, so as to get maximum coverage AND integration. Should all the items come from a single source and, if so, which would you recommend in terms of reliability and repairablilty
considering the number of places one can find ones self while circumnavigating?

Dear Steve:

Thanks so much for your various books. I just finished devouring Practical Seamanship. I have gained greatly from reading and practicing the insights shared, particularly sail balancing and heavy weather techniques. When read in conjunction with the video’s, the books are even more informative.

I presently have a 461 Beneteau. I like it very much. My wife thinks it is a bit too sporty & light. We use it for coastal crusing (West coast). We are in the beginning process of evaluating boats which are better designed/ suited for passage making. Like most everyone, we would like to sail BEOWULF, or its equivilent, but it is not likely to ever be in reach of our budget. I personally would like a Sundeer 64, but it is uncertain whether one would become available, or be affordable. As with so many others who have written before me, I am seeking advice to help with my quest.

We are looking to spend $400-500,000. I had been thinking of the Amel Super Maramu 53, but after comparing its hull design to that of the Sundeers/Deerfoots, it appears more suited to light conditions. Others we have considered seemed a bit too beamy and/or had keel/rudder designs which were not conducive to surfing. Any thoughts on production/semi-custom boats that we should focus on? My inclination would be toward a ketch, but I’d be happy with a cutter rig.

Thanks again for sharing so much and considering my questions. Linda has been quite an inspiration for my wife, who really only likes warm days with the wind behind the beam.–Mark

I am seeking advice re the best choice for setting up an email account for use during my family’s upcoming sail around the world. My crew are my wife and two young daughters (5 and 8). We plan to depart in September 2003 from Groton CT aboard our Westsail 32. First of all, we plan to have a ham radio Winlink email address (if I can just carve out enough time to study for and take the tests!). But for sending and receiving photos and large attachments I gather that we should consider having an email address that we can access from Internet cafes and similar locations using our laptop. Do we need to have a subscription internet service provider that we would dial into from landlines at foreign ports? If so which is best? A free one like Hotmail (I think it’s free)? Or do we need to pay $10 to $20+ per month for an ISP like Earthlink or AOL? Do we simply need the email address and then plan to use the Internet cafe’s or other retail location’s internet service provider to gain access to the web. As you can tell, I am having trouble figuring all this out and would really appreciate your guidance as to whom we should contact for the best, most current advice. Thank you for whatever you can tell me to get us headed in the right direction.– Doug

Hi Steve, I don’t know if you covered this anywhere (couldn’t find it in your books, SetSail or in MaxSea) but I have to renew/upgrade my Radar. Obviously want to get one with Mini ARPA output for overlaying targets on MaxSea/charts. However, in addition, sailing mainly shorthanded, would like (need) to have chart, radar and overlays (if possible) on a repeater in the cockpit.

All the main Radar/Chart Plotter suppliers (Raymarine, Furuno etc.) don’t have any protocol for third party suppliers of chart software to repeat via their screens either main or repeater. As far as I found out so far, only RayTech Navigator (with additional Racing module upgrade) allows their propriety software to connect via their "Seatalk" or HSB and one (or more) of their Radar/Plotter displays.

In other words, it seems to me only Raymarine, if you buy their chart software cables, HSB or Seatalk etc. is able to achieve this desirable requirement. That would mean dumping MaxSea (of which I have an investment already) and going all RayMarine? (coincidentally I have all RayMarine ST 60’s instrumentation in the cockpit). All the other systems are capable of Radar/Plotter as main screen with repeaters (Furuno’s NavNet for example) in cockpit, but then you have to buy their cartridge Rom’s with the charts again and that would cost a fortune.

Any suggestions on how to "get repeated" in the cockpit without costing a fortune in waterproof tablet computers? Also, are there any Radars on the market which give a signal to operate on a PC/Laptop which could then be duplicated somehow to a screen in the cockpit (along with the chart plotting of course)? (what about using a PDA as a dumb terminal via wireless? bit small I know, but thinking of cost).

Appreciate your views/advice/knowledge on this subject. Kind regards/George W

Question regarding SSB vs. Iridium/Globalstar…..I read the nice item on Setsail.com on Iridium/Globalstar and agree that it is coming into vogue economically for data communications/e-mail, etc….It is definitely easier for everyone on board to use in a crunch. But don’t you lose the flexibility to participate in net calls, etc.? It seems that there are always tradeoffs…You can access SailMail via the Sat. phones, correct? Also, I’m upgrading my sailing info instruments (wind direction,speed,etc.). What are your thoughts on a good manufacturer of these items in reference to MaxSea interface? Thanks, Ed

In the Bernhardts’ April 01, 2001 discussion of their cruising budget, they state that they pay $2280 for medical insurance for the year for the whole family. I’d like to know which insurance company they use. Their boat insurance is fairly inexpensive also, since their cruising area includes Europe…Love this site. Thanks. Claire D

Hi, I am enjoying reading our book “Surviving the Storm”. I know you could not cover all the topics, and I have not read the whole book yet, but I could not find data or reference to world storm patterns. If one was chicken, and wanted to avoid category two and three heavy weather storms (page 16), what cruising routes could be planned, and where not to be at what time of year? I recall some published charts that show wind direction and speed at various locations. What about information on routes and the best time of the year to avoid bad storms. Could you name a few good sources for me. I get the hint that New Zealand is risky at best. If I missed this information in your book, please let me know where it is located. Thanks, Mike

I found your web site today and was fascinated with all the possibilities. We are in the process of buying a 42′ cat and will be sailing from the US East Coast through the Panama Canal and out to the South Pacific and points beyond. The boat does not have anything other than self steering and basic instruments and we would like to equip with radar, gps, plotter, etc…running into a PC and of course not spend a fortune. What would you suggest as someone who obviously has a great deal of experience? The route plotting seems like a great idea and we will have a sat phone but are unsure about a SSB. Thanks, David

Linda & Steve, In your recent article on the new passage planning software (I hope to see more on this later) you made a comment regarding downloading weather forecast data during your passage. What method do you use to access internet at sea?? Regards, Mark

Steve: A new Iridium Satellite LLC has just announced on CNBC that these satellites are back in business with coverage over 100% of the globe. Great for offshore roaming types. Phone cost looks like $1500US for the handset, which accepts on-line data. I don’t have info about operating costs. Regards, DM

Could you…let me know what info should be included in a ship log, or send over an example? Lisa P.

I’m fascinated by your comments about Globalstar–do you think it’s a viable option for our cruise despite the company’s problems? I’m reluctant to buy a $1000 SSB modem if we can get satellite service instead…Best regards, Candace

Firstly, let me say how much I am enjoying your books, Mariner’s Weather Handbook and Surviving the Storm. For anyone with the slightest interest in the weather around them and in taking a boat to sea, they are excellent reading. However, I do have a couple of queries:

On page 340 of the ‘Mariner’s Weather Handbook’ you show three photographs of tropical revolving storms, when and where they should not be, one off Angola (West Africa) in April 1991 and two of one storm in the Eastern Mediterranean in January (no year mentioned). It is my understanding that no tropical revolving storms have ever been reported in the South Atlantic (until now) and that the sea temperatures in the Eastern Mediterranean in January are certainly not high enough for cyclogenesis nor is the ITCZ anywhere near the Mediterranean. Have you any explanation for these phenomena and/or a year for the Mediterranean storm (I would like to research past meteorological records to find what conditions actually existed in the latter case).

I look forward to your reply, Brent

I replaced my fixed prop ( 3-blade 16 RH 10) with a 17 RH 10 Flex-O-Fold 2-blade folding prop. I have experienced much improved speed under sail and not bad performance in reverse. However, I am unable to get full cruising RPM in forward and because of this am not able to motor cruise at much more than 4.3 knots. My vessel is a Nautilus 37 with a 35 hp Yanmar diesel. Also I am experiencing vibration at 1900 RPM which I did not have with my fixed prop. Any suggestions? Ron

I am going to school on your experience. I am wanting to upgrade my windlass from an older AnchorMan that is better suited to line than the System 7 3/8th chain and 65-pound spade we have acquired.

I was intrigued by Maxwell’s offerings but their specs shown on the web seemed to indicate they support 3/8th SHORT chain? Have I missed something? The G-7 seems to have a diameter = .394", inside length = 1.23", inside width = .62".

Do you get a different chainwheel/gypsy? I saw a discounted Maxwell VW series 1200, but with a shorter chainweel/gypsy at my local chandlery that I would like to buy if it’s possible to get a chainwheel put in for the system 7 3/8th chain.

Does it make a difference where on the rode you attach a nylon snubber when anchoring? I would think that closest to the boat would be best – putting the snubber between most of the chain shock and the boat, but that would make it impossible to shorten your scope after setting the anchor. Suggestions? Mark L.

Dear Setsail, I’m in the process of speccing out the glazing for the pilothouse on the boat I am building. I have narrowed it down to either 1/2" tempered glass or 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate and am now looking for a little real world experience to tip the scale. One nagging doubt: the long-term durability of this product in the voyaging environment. I’ve read in your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia that you recommended and used polycarbonate on your sailing vessels, but noticed that you made the switch to glass in the FPB series. After walking the docks at the boat shows and talking to designers and builders of some of the high-end custom pilothouse and raised saloon boats, it seems they all are going with toughened glass, but none seem to have any direct experience with abrasion resistant polycarbonate. What’s your experience? Best regards, Collin

Hello Steve, I have been offered a really nice bare hull, but the mould for the deck is a center cockpit. I would like to build the boat as an aft cockpit. I could either build a deck in plywood and glass it on top afterward, but I wondered if I could build a deck in aluminum. This seems to me to be quite a good mix. Fiberglass below and aluminum above. This would suit me because I could leave it bare for non slip on the side decks and also I could build the hard dodger in aluminum. Do you think that the differential expansion between fiberglass on aluminum could cause a problem? I also wonder whether it might cause problems later with resale because it is so unconventional. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks, Howard

Dear Steve and Linda: I am following you book as a guide (maybe I should say Bible, as I suspect many others are also). I plan to use a lightweight tread plate on the walkways on the top of the hulls and a few other places. The builder is concerned that, when the tread gets wet, it will be quite slippery. He thinks that you must be putting something in the way of nonskid on the tread plate. I suspect he is wrong but thought I should check. He is recommending that I use normal aluminum decking and apply a cork-based product made in Great Britain [I believe]. I prefer to stay with the tread plate, but only if this going to give me good footing when wet. I would appreciate knowing your experiences with the tread plate decking, as far as being slippery when wet. Incidentally, you recommended that I go with 80 grit versus the 120 I had considered. Boy, were you right! It looks much better. I am going to use the Barnacle System, I think, and thought of finishing the bottom in 120 grit and running without bottom paint to see what happens with just the Barnaclean system. [Your thoughts?] -Bill

Hello, Have you a review of computers/laptops/notebooks best compatible with seafaring vessels? Thank you, Bernard

We are shortly to buy an SSB radio. We propose to spend up to USD2,500 and will run a weather fax program on a Toshiba laptop thru it. The model we like so far is an Icom IC-M710. Have any of your readers had any experience with one of these, and if so how do they like it? Mike

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers,solenoids etc. I can’t find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me? – Nathan

Hi Linda and Steve: I am enjoying your articles about maintaining Beowulf, and was interested in the piece on your washing machine.

My wife is happy enough to wash by hand, but would like a spin dryer or similar.

Can you offer any advice? – Thanks, Chris

Regarding turnbuckles, Mike wants a stainless body (open or closed) over a bronze threaded bolt. Alan Blunt says that Navtec is the only company that offers this but it is unnecessarily expensive (Alan seems to be recommending chrome plated bronze body turnbuckles). Which turnbuckles do you recommend for both my standing and running rigging?

I am spellbound by the thought of going cruising one day, when and if shore life doesn’t satisfy me anymore, and when and if I can nail down someone who can tell me just how much cruising, including insurance, really costs. And, so I have been browsing the Internet in search of the answers to the questions: why, when, how much, what boat, how safe . . . .

The latest question I ponder is what work might be available along the way, and I hear diesel and refrigeration mechanics can work anytime, anywhere. However, being an engineer who knows about engines and other machines, but who has not practiced machine repair, I wonder what can a peripatetic mechanic do in the bowels of a boat, other than normal, routine preventative maintenance I suspect many sailors perform for money-saving reasons. Just what tasks related to machines and systems are sailors willing to pay for?! Regards, Craig.

Hello, First of all, thanks for publishing your knowledge.. It is appreciated. I’d like to know what your latest opinion is in regards to new yacht registration outside of the US. My wife and I are going to cruise the Caribbean before setting up shop in the BVI to charter on a multi-hull. Other then sales tax/use tax issues within a specific US state, do you know of any other advantages, considerations or pitfalls? Thank you for your time, Jay

What would you used to clean a greasy electric motor body with so that it is clean enough to paint? CRC, acetone, ammonia, 3M adhesive cleaner??? – Phil

Hi Steve, Thinking about upgrading a boat from a 12 volt system to a 12/24 volt system to handle electric windlass, electric winches, water maker, etc while still using 12 volts for electronics and lights. In your opinion, what is the best route to go? Thank you Crawford

Where can I find more information about “pillow block bearings” that you mention in your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia under the section on Mega Alternators (page 870).

We have a Northern Lights 8kw genset aboard and I would like to mount a high output alternator on the unit. Presently we seldom place much of a AC load on the unit and by placing a big alternator on it we could “kill two birds with one stone”; charging our battery banks as well as providing AC needs and placing a reasonable load on the engine.

The folks at Northern Lights were not overly excited about this idea (side load on the front seal and bearings). Space constraints do not allow for an opposing “slave pulley” to offset the side load of the proposed alternator.

I noticed in your book a reference to a “pillow block bearing” which alleviates the side load problem. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Fantastic reference book. Thank You, John and Deanna

I have agonized over this problem for months now. Boy, if you could give me some insight on how to resolve this dilemma I would be most appreciative. In your first Encyclopedia you made reference to the use of a high-output DC genset coupled to an inverter for the AC. Our AC load is small and quite manageable. The largest load is hot water and the reverse cycle AC (both about 10 running amps). Intermediate use items are hand tools, microwave, nicad charger, 13 in. TV. So, my selection logic to date goes something along the lines of: Weight: 3.5 kW AC genset is ~280 lbs.; Fischer/Panda DC unit or Balmar Unit 200. This thing is going in a Hans Christian Christina 40. So, space and weight are of a concern. Fuel Consumption: The DC units seem to have a logic control to throttle back the engine depending on the load. I’m not certain if the AC units are loaded up regardless of the AC load on the generator. So, if you are not running at capacity, is your fuel consumption less than full-load?. I’m guessing that the 3.5 kW AC units consume about .3 GPH. Inverter: Regardless of the genset choice, you’ll want one. Unless you want to fire up the genset to heat a sandwich or catch the 6 o’clock news. I’m looking at the Trace 25. It should handle the inductive load of the AC just fine. I am running a house bank of four, 4D AGM batteries. With their low internal resistance they will accept a high rate of replacement charge off a DC unit. So, from your experience in setting up systems, is the 12V genset a good solid technology? Does it do a good job in keeping the house banks up to 13V while running a long term AC load? Any trade-off from one to another that should sway me? Given the above usage criteria, what do you think? Do you cover this subject in more detail in the Encyclopedia second edition? All the best and thanks in advance for your time, Kevin McGreevy

Where can I find more technical info on passages in El Niño years? I’ve been unable to find anything, even in your books and website. There’s talk of reinforced trades, reversed trades, and as you say reduced trades. Is there any solid data or experience on the subject? Many thanks again…Jan

Here (in new Zealand) it is difficult (read impossible) to get 500Hpa charts on weatherfax….what options can you recommend ? Thanks for your input. Best regards, Alan

Where can I find weather faxes for the Caribbean on the Internet?

Dear Dashews: A quite wonderful website. The most interesting and informative I have ever come across in any field of interest. I shall certainly be buying some or all of your books. In the meantime, a word of advice, if you have time: I noted your comments about one of the Beneteau designs. First question: do you have a view as to the suitability of the Oceanis 473 for deepwater cruising? It seems to me to be quite a lot of boat for the money in this part of the world (UK) – compared for instance with the clearly excellent but extremely pricey Hallberg-Rassey equivalent. Second question: conceivably you might think single-handed offshore cruising to be inadvisable, but would the 473 lend itself to that, if suitably set up? Third question: do you rate the boom furling equipment now available? – I am thinking in particular of a New Zealand design the name of which I have forgotten but have seen in action. It seems pretty handy and of course permits a a fully-battened main with a decent roach. With kind regards and deep admiration, Neil

I got a Hylas 44 surveyed as part of my purchase of that boat. I want the boat (1989) to take it to the South Pacific with my wife. Do you know that design? Do you think is a good boat for that trip? Thanks!

Hi Steve: I have been admiring your crafts for some time now, and probably like everyone else, I am a big fan of your brilliant designs…speaking of brilliant designs have you stopped production on the Sundeer 64 and if not what are the price tags on one of those? I found a charter service online that uses one of these great cruisers and hope to charter it soon if I can get the chance. I would love to get a feel for it! thanks Michael L

Hi, I’ve just purchased a 1975 Westerly Centaur (and yes, I don’t plan on getting anywhere quickly). The boat has its original rigging including a roller-reefing boom. I would like to employ some sort of basic slab reefing type approach, but there are no reef hooks and there doesn’t appear to be an blocks on the stern end of the boom for running lines to the clew of each reef. Can I just mount all of this on the present boom and run appropriate lines? If I can mount such hardware, would I rivet it onto the boom? Or do I need to think about a new boom (I really don’t want to buy a new boom). Thanks! – Arthur

Hi Steve, In the FAQ section under Rigs and Rigging you mention you use 3 to 3 1/4″ sliders in your mainsail system. Do you have these sliders in this length specially manufactured for you, and if so, who does it and what material is used? Or are they ‘off the shelf’? And lastly, do they have any metal inserts within the plastic for reinforcement? (I’ve searched extensively but apparently not well enough!) Thanks Rich

Dear Steve: I read your comment regarding your new single-line reefing system and your intention to write about it ( 6Sept 2000 article). Have you done that somewhere? I’m in New Zealand rethinking my reefing system and sail controls in general and I’d be interested in your thoughts. One of the riggers here is telling me that he has good luck on big boats with single-line reefing, so I’m tempted to try it. My boat is only 52 feet, so he thinks it would be no problem. Randy

Please excuse my ignorance; but in your article about full batten mainsail, what the heck is UHMW?

Dear Linda & Steve, Thanks for your really interesting Weather Handbook, which we began reading. It will certainly take some time…Together with our local sailmaker we are constructing an extra-roached mainsail, which will be ready in spring (this is not California). However, he did not know where to get UHMW fabric to protect this sail from chafe. Can you give us some help, maybe another name for that or a company which sells this stuff in the old world? Many thanks in advance.

I am supporting a friend on his sailing trip though the Pacific Ocean. He is trying to find a way from Tuamotu Islands to Hawaii. Actually he planned to go via Marquesas Islands, however, easterly winds (in gusts up to 45 knots) still make it impossible to sail this route. I fea, the only way to reach Hawaii is to go the long way right north.

I have been told that you have some experience in travelling to Hawaii "the wrong way" – against trade winds. Is there a possibility to get some usefull information from you? Maybe he could call you directly via his satellite phone?

Thanks in advance for your reply. Manfed Ziegler

I am building an Aluminum Sailboat with a spade rudder and rudder stock. I am planning to use UHMWPE plain bearings. Would it be a good idea to hard anodise the shaft in the area of the bearings to reduce the wear? Would there be any corrosion issues? Thanks, Howard

Dear Steve & Linda: I have a NONSUCH 30, and would like to know if you have any comments about modifying your storm tactics for a catboat rig. The large forward mast makes it nearly impossible to stay into a heavy wind…and heaving-to is not an option. At anchor, as would be with a sea-anchor, the boat wanders at right-angles to a heavy wind. While I thankfully haven’t had to try it in heavy seas, I have found that anchoring off a stern corner keeps the boat headed downwind pretty steadily…of course it causes extra windage, and makes the cockpit area a wet and windy place. I am eagerly looking forward to studying your book…overcoming anxiety is worth a lot in being able to think through a stressful situation…and your spouse having greater confidence in you and the boat is PRICELESS!

Hi Steve. With a 36 foot waterline, wouldn’t the boat (at least theoretically) have a hull design speed of about 8 knots? [sqrt 36 = 6 x 1.34 = 8.02] Do you find that such boats won’t sail at the design speed? Sidney

Hello Dashews, We love the books and are busy trying to absorb all the info as we plan toward and dream of our own cast off day in 36 months. We have been educating ourselves on design as we continue to search for the right boat for our needs. I agree with your philosophy on waterline and the value of older CCA boats. I also like aluminum or steel (though right now steel seems like a better buy in general).

Here’s the issue–I am 6’5″ tall, my wife is 6’0″ and our two sons 4 and 2 1/2 are destined to be at least that big. That’s a lot of height on a boat. Can you give us some direction on makes of the older boats that would be more inclined to accommodate our height? I know that it is an issue of free board as much as anything but has interior volume and subsequently headroom increased with the newer boats or can we find a pool of appropriate boats built of steel or alum. In the 60s–80s that will save us aching heads? Thanks, Dave

I have a Hughes Northstar 80/20 ketch with a roller furled mainsail. This is obviously an aftermarket modification, and it is extremely difficult to unfurl and furl. The outhaul and furling lines by necessity are each routed around several blocks (around the boom, down the mast, across the deck, through a block, then to the cockpit) which greatly increases the mechanical
effort required to move the sail. At times we have had to use our large winch and are putting a lot of (hopefully) unnecessary strain on the lines, deck organizers and blocks. Our best efforts have resulted in still about a foot of slack in the outhaul line at the clew. This is my first experience with such a mainsail arrangement and I have no idea what is considered "normal" operation or configuration. In addition, the car to which the outhaul line is attached moved freely on the boom track until I hit on the idea to lock it in place using a second, locking slide. By keeping the car stationary, sail management improved a bit but it still seems to be much harder than it should be and requires two people pretty much dedicated to the mainsail during furling and unfurling. My original plan of sailing the boat shorthanded or singlehanded is now in question until I can resolve this problem.

Hi again. We are in the process of installing a diesel engine in our Mirage. All was going according to plan, until a fellow boater mentioned crabbing, and warned us that placement of the prop is critical. If not offset, the boat will ‘crab’, worse in reverse, than in forward. Next Saturday, the hole is being cut through the hull. I’ve had a look through the Encyclopedia, but can’t find much about proper placement of the shaft/prop, and although many of my boating friends have heard of it, no one can elaborate. I’ve looked at the last few boats in the area that are still out of the water, and find that the shaft is placed dead-centre. Do you have any advice, or do you have a publication that explains the concept? Your help is appreciated. Jim from Canada

When you get a chance could you please ask Steve what he thought of the Rocna anchor he bought after using it in Washington, Canada and Alaskan waters? Thanks, Dennis

Steve & Linda, thank you. I have read your books, kept up over the net, and most of all, have enjoyed your cumulative years of sailing wisdom. I singlehand a Columbia 50 and cruise the islands from Palm Beach, Fl. I have decided to install an anchor windlass and I am looking for suggestions. Ideal appeals to me but I am conservative as to the battery usage. Thank you, Dusko Bruer

Hello! First let me just say how much I appreciate your books, your designs and your web site. You really are unique!

We are starting to seriously think about "getting off"and I therefore have a lot of boat design features to sort out.

I hope you can help me with these two: Storm shutters. How did you deal with storm shutters on the Sundeer series? I think about the large windows in the hull and the "pilot house". Are storm shutters used or are the windows simply designed to be "storm proof"? Insubmersibility. What do you think about insubmersible boats, or modifying a boat (injecting foam in interior spaces that are not used for example) so that it becomes insubmersible? I have seen your comment on the Yacht Saver, but this seems like a costly and technically complex solution (just another thing that needs surveys and that will malfunction when it is needed). Another thing is the problems with large balloons inside the boat in a crisis situation. I hope you will take the time to answer these questions. With regards, Erik

Dear Steve & Linda, It was only yesterday that I was pointing BEOWULF out to some of my sailing students ( I’m a part-time instructor) as she came into Marina del Rey and backed into a berth at Cal YC; it prompted me to make a visit to the Ship’s Store and part with some $’s to purchase a copy of Practical Seamanship, in which I have had my nose firmly buried ever since. Thanks for creating such a practical, logical and well-written tome; it will help make me a better, more rounded sailor and instructor, and aid in passing on my knowledge and experience to the new converts of the fine art of sailing. Perhaps you might clear up a question I have. It seems that I read somewhere that BEOWULF has only 1 (one) thru-hull. Is this so? And if so, where can I find some info on how you managed to achieve this seemingly impossible feat? I must admit I have spent some time thinking about it and am somewhat baffled. I look forward to reading and owning some more of your titles in the future. Thanks, Paul G.

Dear Steve and Linda: In addition to the above I also have both (editions) of your Encyclopedias. I am using the latest Encyclopedia as a guide, as we design a 65 x 32 aluminum catamaran, which will draw two feet when fully loaded. It is being designed by Grant Robinson in St. Augustine, Florida. It is to be built by Topper Hermason of Amelia Island, Florida. Your Encyclopedia has been more than invaluable and so I bought it for Grant to serve as a basis to make sure we are clear on what we are discussing. Based on your writings, I am going to leave the vessel unpainted and ground to 120 grit. I plan to spend years in the Southwestern Pacific. I am very concerned about what deck temperatures I should expect with unpainted deck and hulls in the tropics. I know you are very experienced in this area and would appreciate your input. Do the decks get too hot for comfort? Are you still happy with an unpainted aluminum vessel? What temperature ranges should I expect the deck to reach given being in the tropics and on open seas? I do appreciate your taking time to respond to the above. I look forward to your next book, which I understand will be available within a short time. Sincerely, Bill

Dear Steve,

We build an aluminum 50ft and have one question.

1. How to make the lightning protection ground plate to the outside of the hull and what material/size to use. Hull material alloy 5083, painted.

2. How to make SSB ground plate to reflect waves into the air, also here please advice size and material.

Please be so kind to advice your comments based on experience on your aluminum boats.

I cannot find reply in your book.

Thank you and best regards, Alexander

Hello Dashews: We have a Cal 2-46 and I am struggling with how to build a substantial grounding plane for the SSB–the previous owner did not have an adequate installation. Could you give us some suggestions? So far, we understand that the sintered bronze plates are not adequate. One person suggested that we cover the entire rudder in copper plate, two have suggested that we epoxy copper screen into wherever we can in the bilge (which would be a lot of relatively small pieces), someone suggested multiple copper strips running lengthwise in the bilge and Ed at American Marine Coatings in Seattle says he can mix up a batch of his product with sufficient copper in it to make it conductive so it will work if painted into bilge spaces and connected up. What to you think? Thank you very much. Jim and Leslee

Greetings from the Florida Keys. Of all the great values one can find, your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia is the best. We have used your book as a wonderful resource to guide our steps and now are the proud, and deliriously happy owners of a 45′ Columbia. An older boat, she is quite sound, needing only a lot of “elbow grease” and some electronics. We were fascinated by the application of ground walnut shells to teak saloon floors for a non-skid, good looking flooring (page 1034). Is there a supply source for the shells, or did you render them yourself? Thanks, Janine M.

Steve, I’ve got a question about the combination clothes washer/dryer you show in the Beowulf video. Is it vented or not? And how happy are you with its performance? Would you recommend it? Thanks, Kyle, Colorado Springs, CO

Where would one go to find a consumers report on sailing vessels? Carl

I’ve enjoyed your books & website…. keep up the good work! Maybe you could give me some guidance or point me in the right direction. I’m trying to identify marinas which might cater to seasonal liveaboards. My thinking is to keep a boat in the Caribbean, Central America or other interesting/accessible parts of the world and, being from the Chicago area, use the boat as a primary residence and cruising vehicle during the winter. An incomplete list of desirable marina “requirements” might include: good security, sense of community (marina somewhat populated by other liveaboards), good air transport to/from US, reasonable weather protection, repair/haul/storage facilities. These are just some of the thoughts/criteria which come to mind but I’m at a loss for how to go about identifying the best marina options I might want to more closely investigate. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Got your books, got your videos, got one question.

I am looking at importing a boat into Canada, BC to be exact. What I am wondering about is, I NEVER see articles or otherwise written on registration issues. If I bring a boat into Canada for example that is not built in the USA or Canada. I am subject to 9.5% duty (if it’s a French built boat), and 7% Provincial sales tax. and 7% G.S.T. This is based on the appraised value of the boat. I see boats registered in The Grand Cayman’s, Bermuda, and other offshore places and I am sure that the owners are Canadians. If I buy a boat in the USA and leave it there I don’t pay Canadian Taxes but I cannot sail it in Canadian waters. Is their such a thing as an offshore registered boat that I can sail in Canadian waters as a Canadian without having to pay all the duty etc. Thanks, any information would be appreciated. An Avid fan, Gord

I am a new boater. My wife & I cruise the coastal US. & rivers off & on throughout the year. Needless to say, there has been much to learn. Can you recommend an easy to understand & basic book regarding the weather & boating?

Hi Steve, I need to get a hard drive for my boat, a 52′ sloop. My question is what kind of specs do I need to know that the hard drives will keep working if I get into a really pounding sea. I’d like to have 40 Gigs of storage.

This is not the kind of question I’d expect a boat builder to know about, but can you send me on to someone who might have more information about this? Many Thanks, Mac

I wonder if you have any opinion on electric propulsion? I am considering re-powering with a Solomon system. I have a 30hp Westerbeke diesel at this point. I am cruising full time with lots of hours at anchor. Comparing prices, diesel/electric, is a definite apples/oranges situation, with the result being that I may decide based on my dislike of the internal combustion engine. Certainly would appreciate your reaction to the this concept used in a cruising sailboat. Ross

Hi, I just received my video of BEOWULF in the S Pacific…my wife and I watched it twice, back to back, and were totally impressed with the video and of course BEOWULF.

My specific questions are equipment related:

How did you design the water ballast system and which manufacturer did you select for the pump(s) and other controls ? I own an older 60 ft steel ketch with three water tanks built into the hull. The port and starboard tanks could conceivably be converted to a ballast system. The third tank could then be used for drinking water supplied by a watermaker. What volume and therefore weight would you consider to be a minimum to use in such a system? obviously this is hull specific but I do not have any rules of thumb to use. My boat is 60,000 lb displacement. I noticed on the video that you showed a shot of a fuel/hour gauge which was easy to read. Would this be a practical retrofit and if so which manufacturer did you use? In one of your books, I don’t remember which I have several, you had a section on anti roll flopper stoppers? I was wondering how often did you use them and how effective are they?

I would appreciate any advice you can give as we are in the middle of a retrofit/upgrade. My wife thinks that your video is going to cost us a lot of cash, but she won’t let me make an offer to purchase BEOWULF!!! Regards, John

I am looking for a source where I can purchase some battery hydrocaps. Steve Dashew talks about them in his Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia?–Lutz

Merry Christmas Steve and Linda: We’re planning an Atlantic Crossing via Bermuda, Azores, Portugal in June. We have a 1998 Valiant 42. I have Inmarsat C and SSB aboard. What is your advice for a daily routine for getting the weather forecast predictions as we cross? Also, I have your book on weather. Thanks and the best of New Year’s to you. Thanks, Roy

My wife Tina and I will be leaving California next October, taking a year trip and making our new home in the U.S. Virgin Islands to work the boat in Day-Charter. I have learned alot from your books.

At your recommendation, I am buying the Furuno 207 weather fax. My local dealer says that I should not buy the optional amplified antenna coupler, but use a Metz whip antenna. I also recently bought a Sitex Navfax 200 SSB receiver and he sold me the Metz whip antenna, rather than the optional active antenna. He told me the sales reps have told him they work better than the active antennas. I have not installed it yet–which antenna do you use and what would you suggest for best reception for both of these units? I would appreciate any guidance you can offer.Thanks again, Frank

I bought the Mariner’s Weather Handbook and find it helpful. I have a question, though. On page 123, you attempt to show divergence/convergence on a drawing (bottom of page). I have read it 10 times and don’t understand what you are trying to tell me. It is early in your discussion of this subject and so I do not want to move on without an understanding. Can you elaborate on what that drawing is showing me? Thank you, George

Steve: I’m installing a tube for storing charts. Looking at West Marine it appears the small dimension of “large charts” is no greater than 36″. Does this reflect your experience? I have room for a tube up to 60″ but don’t want to end up with charts lost down a ridiculously long tube. Thanks, Chip

DEAR STEVE, I’VE BEEN LOOKING AT SOME HANS CHRISTIAN MARK 2 CUTTERS, AND HAVE COME ACROSS A VESSEL 21 YEARS OLD, REFITTED WITH NEW RIGGING AND ELECTRIC’S PLUS RADAR ETC. IN 2001, THE LIST GOES ON AND ON. (VERBAL! BUT INVENTORY PLUS SURVEY IN 2001 ON ITS WAY.) SHE WAS BUILT FOR THE PRESENT OWNER. THE PRICE IS WITHIN MY RANGE BUT SLIGHTLY HIGHER THAN MANY OF HER STABLE OF THE SAME VINTAGE. INFORMATION LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THAT THAT SHE’S IN EXCELLENT CONDITION ( A NEW SURVEY WOULD BE FIRST ON THE LIST). I’VE GONE THROUGH THE Q & A AND SO ON BUT NO MENTION OF HANS CHRISTIAN’S. YOUR ENCYCLOPEDIA PLUS CD IS ON ITS WAY AND THERE SHALL PROBABLY BE SOMETHING IN IT. HOWEVER YOUR OPINION IS IMPORTANT TO ME AND I CAN’T WAIT. I’M SURE YOU’VE COME ACROSS THEM IN YOUR TRAVELS. THEIR A RARITY IN OZ, MAINLY DUE TO THEIR COST (OZ SHOULD’VE STAYED ON THE GOLD STANDARD ! AYN RAND WAS RIGHT !) PLUS THE FACT THAT ONLY 900 HAVE BEEN BUILT SINCE THE COMPANY’S FORMATION IN 1980. MY QUESTION IS IN 2 PARTS. (1) WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HANS CHRISTIANS ? (2) SHE IS IN THE NORTH-WEST AND I’D LIKE TO HIRE A SKIPPER TO DELIVER HER TO SYDNEY AND TRAVEL MYSELF AS SUPER CARGO. I’D NO DOUBT LEARN SOMETHING AND MAY EVEN BE OF ASSISTANCE. (MY HEALTH IS STILL VERY IFFY). WHAT WOULD THE CHARGE FOR A PROFESSIONAL TO DO A JOB LIKE THIS ? A MEDIAN FIGURE ? EVEN A BALL PARK FIGURE! WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE SOME IDEA. HOPE YOU’VE TIME TO HELP ME WITH THIS AS I’VE ALWAYS LOVED THE OLD WORLD CHARM OF THESE BOATS. CHARM DOESN’T FLOAT ! REGARDS TO YOU, ANTONY M