Steve, This may seem like a dumb question, but….How does the height above the water affect the anemometer readings? The reason I ask this is that my mast is 56ft off the water and it seems that the wind speed readings I get are consistently higher than mates of mine that have shorter (i.e. 35ft) masts. I have B&G gear so it should be accurate….is there a formula that we can apply to get surface wind speed, knowing the height of our instruments ? Thanks Cheers Alan

I’m starting to practice weather forecasting with the 500mb and surface charts. The NWS site has lots of different charts with different forecasts such as 12,24 or 36hr forecasts. Which one of these would you recommend that I use to practice?

These are the charts I download: 15.00Z Surface Analysis Chart Part 1 10E-45W Northern Hemisphere Size: 38.4K–Updated: Fri Nov 26 03:23:37 1999 UTC 16.00Z Surface Analysis Chart Part 2 40W-95W Northern Hemisphere Size: 32.5K–Updated: Fri Nov 26 03:33:36 1999 UTC 28.00Z 500MB Surface Chart Analysis 45W-85W Northern Hemisphere Size: 26.8K–Updated: Thu Nov 25 23:23:35 1999 UTC.

I’m “superimposing” the 500mb on the surface analysis charts to forecast what the weather will be like for the next 24 hrs. Am I on the right track?? Regards, Susan

I have recently seen a Macgregor 65 which has been set up for cruising for two people with a smaller rig and deeper draft. I am wondering if you have any knowledge of the capabilities these boats have for cruising. This boat has only been used for cruising the West Coast of America and Baja. Hope you can help. Thanks in advance. Bye for now. Brent G.

PS – I would be using this boat mostly for cruising between Australia and New Zealand and to the South Pacific Islands.

Steve, I wonder if you have had a look at the Aerodyne 47 with regard to use for bluewater cruising. I also wonder if the hull can take the bumps and knocks from extended cruise. Thanks, Howard.

Hi Steve, Thanks for the input on the SD 60. Ever set one up as a ketch? Also, somewhere in my readings of your work, I believe you stated that you calculated displacement differently than most boats so that an allowance for the typical load of stuff that offshore cruisers carry is in the total displacement figure for the boat. Does this mean that the figure usually given for most boats, say on a PHRF certificate, is not the same as the number for displacement for your designs? Also, what kind of ratings would your SD 60 or DF 58 get under the various handicap systems, not to be used to judge the boat but to see how I might fare in a race. Thanks for your help, Crawford

I have a Beneteau Oceanus 381, and would like to speak to anyone else who has a 381 or similar. As a production boat, I think she can do a circumnavigation. She meets D.T.I. standards for blue water cruising, but I would love to hear other people’s opinions as to the viability of such a venture. Thanks for any advice. Yours, Martin

Hi Steve, Good articles on leaks…

I’ve never had mast collar leaks…but what I do have is rain water getting into the mast, I guess through the halyard exits etc., which accumulates in the bilge…any suggestions as to how to cure that kind of leak?? Cheers, Alan

Dear Steve, I have written before and always have received a kind and enlightening response. I recently had our mast unstepped, repainted, and rewired (spreader lights, vhf, wind NMEA, anchor lights, etc.) . The electronics guy installed a new pvc tube for a wire chase.

Our mast is stepped on deck (metal boat). The wiring feeds out of the mast about 6" above the deck. The cable splits into two bundles (taped) and the two bundles are fed through metal stand pipes throughwelded through the deck (port and starboard). The teak j box in the salon leaks whenever it rains.

I don’t know whether the electronics guy left a Ptrap with the wire before he fed it out of the mast. I also am wondering if the fit at the mast step could be so tight as to not allow water to drain out the step, but rather sit and collect until it gets deep enough to follow the wiring chase and ultimately end up in the cabin.

I don’t want to unstep the mast again to look. And I don’t want to unnecessarily bore a hole in the mast to allow drainage if no need exists. Any advice? Thanks, Wayne

My rigging includes a baby stay that is attached just under the 1st spreader. My mast has 54 foot “I” and two spreaders. This is the first boat I have had with a baby stay, so I am not sure why with this rigging I need one. I would like to take it off for more forward deck room. What are the trade offs? And when would I most likey need the baby stay?

Hi, I often sail my C & C 30 shorthanded. The current sail inventory has a big honker symmetrical spinnaker. I would like to move to a crusing spinnaker and wondered about the viability of recutting the existing spinnaker. Is this possible or even recommended? Thanks, Dave

Dear Mr. Dashew: I have been using a roach/leech overlap of 20% with no problem of backstay passage, and I have found this conservative, and have had no chafing problem over a six- or seven-year period. Have you used higher percentage overlaps successfully?

I am currently considering the use of a single diagonal batten just down from the head of the sail to get the leech well out, and then downward, with the battens having up to a 50% overlap. By that I mean that if the distance from luff to backstay is one meter, the batten would be 1.5 meters long.

Watching videos of my sail passing the backstay in slow motion plus years of experience show me that the sail “peels” across the backstay from bottom to top. Therefore, once the sail assumes a rounded shape, the battens slide easily across the backstay. Do you think 50% overlap will work, and is this a maximum?

A final question: Have you used roller booms on any of your boats? I am using a roller boom, and this raises some additional issues in the event you have experience or thoughts on maxiroach sails and roller booms. Thanks in advance for your comments. Lowell

Hi, I own a Voyage 430 catamaran, I need an instructional DVD on how to sail a large cat. Can you help? Thank you,
Keith

Our steering pump is mounted at wheel level in the pedestal, you know that gives very poor lock to lock. I noticed that pg 563 in the 1st Encyclopedia shows a pump mounted below the pedestal, with a chain drive to turn it. How do you fill a pump in that position? Can you use it sealed with a reservoir at a lower level? Do you have any better suggestions for solving this problem? – Mike B.

Most catalogs show drogue requirements are based on size/length of the boat. We have an 8,000 lb., 36-foot catamaran. Wouldn’t the weight be more of a factor than the length in determining the proper size? -Roger

Dear Steve, It has been while since I last connected with you–in fact it was 2000 prior to the Bermuda race. By the way, INTERMEZZO now FUERA did quite well. In any case the reason why I am writing to you is because I am now working with Bill Tripp Jr. to figure out the true history and facts on how to bring her back to her original state. I thought you might be able to help me separate history from folklore–fact from fiction. I am not sure if she was a ketch or a yawl, you reference in one of your books that she was a ketch, but we are not sure. Do you have any before pictures that you could share with me? Many people who think they are in the know think that she was hull number one. We are convinced that the bow sprit was not part of the original sail plan. Any help sorting any of this out would be very much appreciated. Best regards, Fred

Hi–I read about the importance of knowing your boat’s LPS in the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia, and I was wondering where and how I can review the LPs for different models of boats so I can use that information to help me buy the right boat for me. Is there a site online that lists the LPs for different models of yachts? Thanks, Erin

Hi Dan: One of our friends has a ketch-rigged Deerfoot 72, and he is the process of getting new sails for her in New Zealand from the North loft. She has somewhat less than half the stability of Beowulf, and her rig is less aggressive in terms of potential for roach (she has standing backstays on both spars). I would like to get your comments on the pro's and cons of the different fabrics which have been offered. Regards–Steve

I own a Morris 486 which is equipped with a fully battened mainsail and a 100% roller furling Genoa Each is about 500 ft in area. I am interested in getting more performance in light winds, and was considering either a larger Genoa (135%) or a G-0 gennaker. Any input regarding the pros and cons of each? Conard

In your very valuable Encyclopedia (looking forward to read the heavy weather issue) you briefly mentioned a way to generate DC power with a MAXPROP or AUTOPROP. Is there any description available on this setup? My boat is a Gerard Dijkstra designed 77 ft centerboard shooner (steel, 60 tons) and a MAXPROP is fitted but I am thinking of changing to AUTOPROP (only for performance when maneuvering). Is it possible to do the same trick with this prop? I hope you find the time for an answer. Best regards, Paul

Hello Steve, Would you please tell me the material you used for anchor rollers on Windhorse? Is there a good mix between something soft (quiet) enough and durable? Thanks, Bill

Dear Steve and Linda, Impressed by your books, esp. the encyclopedia. Still I’ve 1 question: I’m looking for a powered windlass for my new 50′ ALU ketch. In your books you hint electrical windlasses are good enough, however I hear from different people that they can only work for a short period because of heating of the DC motor. Indeed e.g. Muir says to me: max. 10 minutes running time. At a speed of 8 m.min that’s only 80 meters chain. Now you also write that anchoring involves 3 maybe even 5 trials before the anchor holds. How does that relate to each other? Wouldn’t therefore a hydraulic windlass be better? Many thanks in advance, Ronald

Good Morning Steve: I have a 98 Valiant 42. I’m selling her and moving to the trawler mode. Most trawlers are just ugly–too high off the water, too much windage. I’ve found the Dieselducks designed by George Buehler and built at Seahorse Marine in China. Please look over these and let me know what you think. Here is their website: http://www.seahorseyachts.com/ Go to the dieselduck 44 and take a look at them. Please let me know how you feel about steel boats and if the design is sound. I respect your opinion more than anyone out there. Thanks again, Roy

Dear Steve and Linda, heaving read all of your books I would like to thank you for your advice given there. As only one example, we’ve changed our mainsail to an extra-roached, fully-battened one which gave us 1 knot extra speed at all courses, which is a lot for 34 feet. Having a double backstay we don’t see any problems even with 30 cms overlap.

My question now is: What do you think of centerboards? We are interested in a 43′ Dutch aluminium Koopmans design which has no keel whatsoever. She sports only internal ballast and the centerboard seems rather small (weighing around 400 kg). The boat was constructed for falling dry in the North Sea. She has a long waterline and a draft of 1,20 meters board up and 2,50 m board down. The rudder is fully integrated into the hull and in line with the ship’s bottom, more just like a motorboat. Is the rudder surface of approx. 1,2 squaremeters large enough and the profile (not balanced) effective to steer the ship in a heavy going?

Thanks for some advice, and have some fun with your grandbaby. Andreas

I write seeking some advice on Aluminum boats. I have a 50 foot Ferru Pilothouse cutter. This French boat is constructed in Al but has epoxy fairing compound in varying thickness over the entire hull and deck (damn those Frenchies). The vessel was neglected for a couple of years so blisters formed over a large surface area. We’ve been chipping away at these blisters to allow air at the Al to prevent further surface deterioration and now the boat looks like it has leprosy. Inspired by your lithe bare-metal “Beowulf”, I want to remove the rest of the fairing compound to lighten the vessel and avoid the sisyphean task of regular paint and epoxy maintenance. The remaining coating, however are tenaciously adherent to the metal surface. These are some of the questions I have… 1. Is it advisable to strip the boat bare? 2. What is the best way to deal with the tiny areas of pitting corrosion that have occurred where water was trapped between the epoxy and the metal? 3. What is the best way to strip the epoxy from aluminum without damaging the hull and deck? 4. Does sandblasting have to be done with aluminum oxide grit or could another material be used? 5. Do you know anything about the French boatbuilder, Ferru? We love to sail our boat and we intend to keep her for many years. We are currently living aboard in New York. I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

Hello Steve, We have an Aluminum boat and we’re in the midst of denuding the deck of fairing compound. With no anti-skid, what do you think are the best deck shoes to use to minimize the chance of careening overboard in heavy weather.

Thanks for the help. Edward

Steve, What system do you use for e-mail and Internet access at sea? What connection speeds do you get? Is it good enough to get the NOGAPS Java movies within a reasonable time frame? What are the options?–Alan

Greetings. Does your library of encyclopedic knowledge have any definitive source(s) for optimum, spatial ergonomics for the interiors of vessels? For instance, passageways 18″ – 22″ wide? Head & shower stall sizes…what’s adequate (for basic duties and toweling off) yet still economic in size? In a “U” shaped galley is 36″ between counters OK? Seating around a dinette…how much room should be allowed for each “sitter” and comfortable “elbow room”? I trust you get my drift as the list of examples could go on forever. I’ve seen your comments on headroom but very little on provisions for comfort, ease and safety whilst moving about and living on a vessel in a seaway. Hopefully you’ve covered this subject before, but if not, it might make a good topic for consideration.

I should add that I fully appreciate the functioning of a proper boat…not a floating condominium or “gin palace”!…And know the danger factor of being thrown about in overly generous living and/or poorly designed interior spaces. Further, I acknowledge that this topic is subject to personal preferences but believe there is, or should be a baseline to start with. Thank you for any information you can provide. Cheers, Richard

We are about 1/3 of the way through a refit of our Westsail 42 “Heartland” and are now beginning to think about what type of material to use on the dinette and saloon cushions. Ironically we have come across a quantity of leather for a great price but are reluctant to buy. Can you shed any light on how leather would hold up to the marine envirnoment? Thank Your Time, John & Deanna

PS: You Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia has proven invaluable during our refit.

Hello Steve,

This question may sound like I’m biting off more than I can chew, however my wife and I are fully committed to doing it anyway. The house is on the market and we’ve promised ourselves that we’ll give it at least one year before we make our minds up whether to keep sailing or return to landlubbers.

I am 41 year old, have almost no sailing experience other than going out on our local bay (Morton bay–Brisbane Australia) with friends on their mid 20ft day-sailers. This is where we (my wife and I ) intend to live aboard and learn to sail until I feel confident enough to coastal sail the 400 miles up to the Whitsunday Island group, and then offshore to the South Pacific Islands and beyond when we’re ready!

Just so you understand my reasoning in learning to sail this way, as opposed to getting a small kneel boat first, I wish to live aboard now, I have always found it easier and quicker for ME to learn by jumping in with both feet. I don’t learn easily in a structured environment, ie: sailing school, I enjoy a challenge. I quite often have people say to me after they get to know me "is there anything that you can’t do!" Some examples–I’ve built my own house from start to finish using no other trades except electrician, it is being sold as I write this for over half a million dollars (this is our cruising kitty) or rebuilding the Isuzu turbo diesel in my 4×4 campervan in remote central Australia when it split the skirting on a piston, I’d never worked on a diesel before.

I have just retired from 17 years as a professional motorcycle racer. This has taught me to trust my own judgment, recognise the difference between fear and danger, anticipate consequences and problems before they happen and never to let anxiety or fear cloud your judgment. As strange as it seems I think these qualities should be a good base from which to jump into the world of cruising. Oh and I grew up on a remote outback cattle station, so being isolated and self reliant is second nature to me.

Ok, now you’re probably thinking this guys got a couple of kangaroo’s loose in the top paddock.

Here’s what I am thinking:
Spending a total of about $150,000 AUS (this will leave us with 2 rental houses debt free for income )
A steel, aluminum or cold moulded wood boat (no doubt I’ll run aground while I’m learning) with a good size engine to pull us off a lee shore while learning too.
34-38 ft ( although my 24 year old cousin who has been the youngest captain ever to do the Sydney to Hobart races including the 1998 storm when he was just 19, says get a 40+ ft boat as it won’t be any harder to learn to sail than the smaller boat and be much better to live aboard)

After reading your sensational OFFSHORE CRUISING ENCYCLOPEDIA, on page 1123 HIO AVAE a Santana 37, I would be very interested on what you would think of this for our first boat?

I guess my biggest question is, should I buy a smaller coastal cruiser and then in a couple of years buy a bigger offshore blue water boat or put up with the inconveniences of a bigger blue water boat while we learn coastal cruising ( I am assuming that it would take at least a year to learn to sail any new boat to its full potential, so selling a coastal cruiser in couple of years then learning a new bigger blue water boat may be counter productive?

Should it be a more traditional design with heavy displacement, full keel etc. which will cope more easily with my mistakes while I’m learning or a boat with a fin keel canoe shaped hull that you favour?

I will probably have my cousin help in choosing from a short list of half-dozen boats the final boat, as he will have a better understanding of a good layout for systems on deck and living under deck.

Regards Peter

I was wondering whether you have any information on plastic bags that can be sealed for storing boat cushions. Look forward to hearing from you.

Hi: I would like to know what you consider the minimum a couple would need to set up a cruising boat in the 35′ range-we are looking for a Ferro-cement at present. I also believe in the ‘less is more’ approach. Thank you and good cruising

John K.

I am in the process of outfitting and taking classes in everything I can get my hands on (Safety at Sea, Mahina Expeditions, Coastal Navigation, Amateur Radio, Scuba, Celestial Nav, Diesel Maintenance & Repair, Intro to Radar, and so on) and am curious to get your take on medical training and the need for it. Specifically, I am contemplating an EMT course which is 120 hours and not cheap, but it does cover quite a bit that is practical on the water and a lot of stuff that will never likely come up. That all said, in reading your encyclopedia, it did not seem that those who you feature were necessarily caught up in courses and certification. Some of the courses I have and am taking are not necessary to all departing, but where do you stand on the medical training issue?

Thanks and I’ll see you out there! Mike

Hi. We’re about to install rigid (as opposed to flexible) solar panels on our Cal 3-46: looking at a number of options for placement: atop dodger, atop Kato davits at stern, swiveled at side rails–any comments about optimum placement and subsequent sailing/safety issues? Thanks, Glenys

Hi Steve, What kind of sailing instruments (do you recommend) for my 52′ sloop? My builder says he’s found Raymarine to be more reliable than B&G. And my electronics expert wants me to use B&G. Do you have any preference? And why? Or there is always Occam, but everybody seems to say to use B&G instead. Many thanks, Mac

We are in the process of purchasing an LRC trawler and are wondering about the advisability of including a watermaking system. We don’t know which is preferable, reverse osmosis or evaporator. Any thoughts on types, preferred brands, tradeoffs, etc? Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks, Tom C. and Bob S.

Can find no mention of “traction” batteries at Trojan’s web site. Do you have a part number or other identifier? Stan

Hi Steve, We were planning to leave for Bermuda tomorrow, but just received a WX report from Commanders that’s a bit scary. They are predicting the “largest storm of the season” over Bermuda this Thurs and Fri. Are suggesting we can get there before it hits, but I’m not sure about that. And even if we get in safely, will have to anchor in St. George’s sufficiently well to withstand 55 knots, according to them. We asked Herb about the storm tonight, but he refused to comment, saying Fri is too far off. I can’t see the warning signs on the 96hr 500mb (maybe they’re over the West Coast now?), but I confess I’m still not great at understanding the 500mb charts, your Mariner’s Weather Handbook notwithstanding. We have no deadlines, no pressure to leave, except for a fridge full of food! What do you think, O Great Seer of the 500mb charts? Commanders says if we don’t leave tomorrow, we should wait till Tuesday, and will be motoring most of the way. By the way, David Jones has not warned our friends about this at all (they’re using him for routing), and they’re expecting to arrive in Bermuda Thurs or Fri as well.

Sorry to trouble you, but I would appreciate your opinion. By the way, we’re in Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, and BEOWULF looks in great shape over there in the yard. Regards, Candace

STEVE: HOW MANY ROLLS OF THERMAL FAX PAPER SHOULD I HAVE ON BOARD FOR A 6 MONTH CRUISE……HAVING THE FURUNO 207 FITTED THIS WEEK.–PHIL

New Wx book a bargain at twice the price. I am reading it for the third time. Do you know where I can download (from the web) wx fax for south pacific? I have friends at 16S 155W headed for Australia. I would like to watch their weather, but cannot find any source for that area. Any help will be appreciated. Best, Jamie

We are considering buying a Gulfstar 47 Sailmaster and are interested in your comments concerning the Sailmaster 50. I.E. that it was never intended for world cruising and its lack of performance. Friends that own these 47’s claim the boat sails great (at least the sloop rig) and it does quite well in heavy weather. Any comments regarding sloop versus ketch rigs? Please be specific about why you feel this way as I’m very interested in this boat – as you said, there is massive space and livability.

I am struggling to form a view on the suitability of the CSY 44 (1980 vessel with longish keel, but cut away at front I believe) for offshore cruising with a 4’11" shoal draft. A Cruising World article of 1997 said that the shoal draft (deep is 6’6″) has a significantly reduced righting moment and recommended the deep keel for offshore. I am interested in: 1. Stability/righting moment (this is important to me) and 2. Sailing ability for world cruising–i.e. how much harder is the shoal keel, the impression I am getting is that it is not good for that sort of cruising–to the point of not being suitable at all? Many thanks

Hi Dashews–After many months of research and viewing, we have found our first boat! We are buying a 1964 Cal 40 in mostly lovely condition for about 50K. I would like your opinion on a couple of concerns I had about the boat.

1. We had an engine survey done and the V-drive needs replacing–what other mechanical systems would V-drive failure affect? Stuffing box? Prop? etc?

2. I have been trying to find out specifics on the hull construction (I was told it was made of 5 hand-laid layers of fiberglass & would be thrilled to find out if that’s true!) but am not having much luck. Are there any non-destructive tests that can be done on hulls to check the condition & thickness of the fiberglass?

3. I have done enough research to know that the tabbing on the Cal 40s is weak and that there are some concerns with the deck-hull joint. Will a surveyor specifically check the bulkheads and the d-h joint for signs of weakness as a matter of course or do I need to instruct him as to what exactly I want inspected?

4. There is some minor decay on the bridge beam–what’s the best way to stop it? Any info at all would be appreciated–we set sail for the first time ever in June!! Thanks, Erin

Hello Steve: If I may quickly pick your experience. I’ve located a William Garden Ketch, Dolphin design 32LwL, 42LoA. Aesthetically, I am in love with that clipper overhang/bowsprit. Only seen a truncated picture so far. Have to travel to check it out, and my source is uncertain whether it is cutter-rigged or not but assume so with a bowsprit. Can’t tell from poor quality photo. It’s wooden hulled, mahog on oak. 11’6 beam 6’6 draft 22,000 displ with 8,000 Ballast Keel assumed to be full length. I have experience sailing dinghies, but that’s it. Intend to use it as a seasonal liveaboard, and to develop/polish skills singlehanding on a big boat. It is purported to be a bluewater boat. Sail package is minimal but includes a storm trysail. What would be your comments on this one, yea or nay for my intentions, assuming the survey is acceptable? I love the way it looks but have to look to an expert such as yourself as to how she may sail, if your familiar or could make an educated guess. You are doing a great service to the sailing community. Thanks, Raphael.

Hi Steve, I’m ordering a #4 for my J120 which I intend to sail from the Caribbean back to the States this spring. The boat is set up for roller furling on the headstay.

My question: Does it make any sense to put reinforcement in the #4 so it can be rolled up to storm jib size? I do have a storm jib, but think it would be easier to set the trysail and the #4 when the wind gets over 25 knots, and progressively roll up the #4 as the wind builds. Easier — but impractical?

I’d be most interested in your comments. Love your books (I’ve got ’em all). Cheers, David

Hi, our insurance requires us to replace all running rigging after 5 years (which is at the end of this year) whether it needs it or not. Probably not a bad idea. along the same lines, someone suggested all thru hulls be replaced after 5 years. Do you agree with the latter? Regards, Peter

Hi Steve and Linda, Thanks for all of the excellent books and tapes on you adventures. They have been a great help. I have noticed the winglets on airplane wings over the last few years. Has any one tried making a “plate” at the top of the mast, maybe using carbon fiber as a frame covered with sail cloth, to form a device which would reduce the vortexes created by a headsail & main combination? If if would work with a plate on each side of the mast, to tending would be needed during tacking or gybing. Asked my sailmaker about it but he deals with racers more than cruisers, so he is not too interested in the idea. Since you seem to be interested in making cruisers go faster with less effort, thought this idea might be for you. Thanks for thinking about it. Crawford

Hi, I am about to order a flat – code 0 – asymetric set on a prodder for a Grainger 8m Trimara. What sheet angle should I go for? The few web pics I have seen for this have the sheet projecting to above half way of the luff, not half way – which would be correct for a genoa? I will have the block for the clew on an athwardship traveller, but there is no fore and aft adjustment. The sail angles are likely to be 80 – 40 aparent. Many thanks for your input, Simon

Dear Linda and Steve: Two years ago I bought a steel kit form Bruce Roberts to build a voyager 495 (L.O.A. 49 ‘- 4") With a longish keel.

About one year ago I bought, directly from you, your book and CD “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia” which, by the way, is the book I’ve have learnt more from. Pity I didn’t have it before.

You totally convinced me with what you say about mains with big roach. Apart from the technical explanations, your comments about them are: "There is absolutely nothing you can do to an older cruising boat that will increase performance as much as one of these sails, regardless of how much you are prepared to spend."

You have (or at least had) 82% of the rectangle of the luff and foot filled with sail in your actual boat BEOWULF and add “We now realize that we can go farther, adding more horsepower for little cost.”

Exactly two days ago I contacted Bruce Roberts (he is the one who really knows my boat) to ask him to produce me a new sail plan with a main of the same characteristic as the one you had on BEOWULF.

I’ve just been in your web site, as I wanted to buy some more books from you, and you can imagine my surprise when I’ve seen that you have just got a new main and mizzen of considerably different design than the original sails.

I’m really worried now: Have you found anything wrong with them? Could you tell me anything about the new design of your sails? I suppose you are very busy but I would be terribly grateful if you could answer me as soon as possible (the cheque to Mr Roberts has already been sent and now I don’t know whether I have to cancel the order).

All the best, Jose

I have enjoyed your site very much for a long time. Into the Light (by Dave & Jaja Martin) has been "the book" for me. Both have been a major help in turning me from dreamer to setting the goals and schedules to make it come true. An amazing content of worthwhile reading from all authors.

My wife and I are contemplating a charter from Puerto Vallarta to Cabo San Lucas April 15-21 and the Captain has been straightforward in saying it will be an upwind and uncomfortable passage. He adds that it is only 300 miles. He has now departed Natal and will be out of touch for a time. We are left wondering about how long the actual passage might be. We are willing to endure a bash for a few days but wish to be up for enjoying Cabo to the fullest also. As we don’t personally know anyone to ask I thought maybe SetSail could help. Any advice or even general opinions will be greatly appreciated. Till my next order, Thanks, Everett

What would be the best wind vane for a 22 foot O’Day sailboat? What do you think of a basic servo-pendulum steering gear? – Melanie E

I enjoyed your book Surviving the Storm very much – essential reading – but wonder about how much is possible at night when visibility is poor. Perhaps the sea anchor is needed here, especially if shorthanded. A chapter on methods for retrieving a man overboard would be useful.

Yours Sincerely, Bruce C.

Steve, Thank you for responding so fast to my e-mail. I have many questions which seem to be answered several different ways by as many people. It is always a pleasure to have some one like yourself to give input. I still am interested in a boat, I thought a motorsailer since I will be in Alaska most the time. But several people have been talking against them if one was ever to truly sail in the open ocean, small on deck structures etc is preferred as to a pilot house. Although I have found the open ocean, hundred miles off shore to be calmer in the long run than the inshore tides etc… (I have skipped tugs across the gulf of Alaska several times). I anxiously await your response. Cheers, Spike

I am considering our next major cruise from NZ/Oz up through the Red Sea, and our charging/motoring/fuel strategy. I have calculated that we get about 1 mile/liter at our normal cruising speed, possibly a bit more. This gives us about 1200 miles with current fuel capacity. Across the Pacific we pretty much motored all the way to Galapagos–no wind. Sailed all the way to Marquee’s, but then motored all the way to Tahiti, and got low on fuel and had to reload from a ship in the Tuamotus, which was very messy and expensive. So I am investigating how to get some more capacity. Ideas:

Glass a tank in on the port side of the lazarette. The area is hard to get at anyway so won’t be too much of a loss.

Glass a tank in on the stbd side behind the current tank in that ‘dead’ area below the compass/steering box.

I reckon, without actually measuring the boat as we are currently skiing in South Island (life’s tough, eh), I guess I could add about another 300+ miles. Which would have life a lot easier in the Tuomotus, for example.

I KNOW ITS MORE WEIGHT!!!! but do you have any other ideas?

I am also considering swapping my homebuilt DC generator for the Balmar, with watermaker add-on. Is this what you have? How does it work out? The literature says it will set its own speed/charge rate, how does that work out?

Also our batteries are getting real bad and I’ll probably change them, did you go for the lead acid Tudors as we have, or the more sophisticated dry cell ‘I can’t remember what they are but not gel type or lead/acid’ new types.

Any advice gratefully received–and probably written about, we start a ‘Masterclass’ series for YW in October!

Hope cruising is going well–Regards, Brian

Hello Dan, great service and answers, thanks.

We have a FP Belize 43 catamaran, and the fully battened main is attached to a track that is fitted into a track on the mast. We have recently been transatlantic and on arrival in the Caribbean found the cars badly worn, two of the end caps the battens fit into (mast end) broken in half, and the bearings of the cars mostly missing. On inspection the track running up the mast was worn heavily where the cars park when the main is fully raised.

We have had new cars sent out but do not want this to happen again. Does the track need replacement? How is this done (excuse our ignorance)? How do we prevent this problem? The boat is 3 years old. Best regards, John Jones

I am in the last stages of purchasing a new Catalina 400mkII. The only remaining issue is furling main or standard. The boat will either be in Charleston SC or Oriental NC. 99% of my sailing will be coastal cruising, shorthanded or fairly inexperienced crew. I’ve chartered for 25 years but this is my 1st owned boat and I’ve never used a furling main. Your advice please

Question: I was going to install a feathing prop on my Nautic Saintongue 44 during this spring’s haul-out. Presently, I have postponed this investment because I met a couple in La Paz this winter who had a feathering prop on a Passport about the same displacement as my boat. I asked them if the prop (maxi) was working for them. They replied that if they had to consider it again, they would not do it again. Basicially it was not worth the investment.

So, what is your opinion on replacing a fixed three blade with a maxi type prop? From manufacturers reports I have read, an increase in speed will be realized, but on a 25,000 lb. displacement boat, is the investment worth it? I do not race, but like to get from one place to the next as quickly as possible.

What prop has worked best for your boats over the years? Mike

Hello, How about some coments about anchors Bruce vs ROCNA for the tropics for a 68 ft wt 68,000 sailboat. What size for the ROCNA do I go with their charts or go weigh up and do we keep a large Bruce also. Thanks, Fred

I am doing an extensive refit of an old Pearson Coaster (30ft) with the goal of doing some extensive cruising. One problem I have been attempting to solve is the storage of the anchor chain. I know were I want to store it, in the keel, but getting it there is the problem.

I want to deliver the chain to the keel from the windless through a PVC pipe to the keel. My theory is that the PVC pipe is something that should be considered a wear item. I would be installing it in such a way that it can be easily replaced. Thus far I have isolated that I need a minimum slope of 12 degrees and that I need to use a pipe size of 1 1/2″ ID for the 1/4″ High Test chain. The next size smaller PVC pipe, 1 1/4″ ID, is just the right size that if a link rolls up the chain will jam.

This appears to me as though I might be going about this from the wrong direction. I don’t have any experience in this area and something doesn’t feel right about my solution.

If anyone has had any experience in this area and would be willing to share any suggestions, they would be most welcome. If I am going about this from the wrong direction, please tell me, and if there is a better way to approach this problem, that I would also like to know. Thank you in advance, Fred C.

What do you consider the best material for pilothouse windows? Lexan, Tempered or safety (laminated tempered) glass?? Phillip

Hello, I’m looking at purchasing a yacht capable of offshore voyages in and around the Southern Ocean, I have found one which suits all my requirements except this steel yacht has a wooden deck and cockpit. Would this partial wooden construction compromise the structural strength of the yacht given worst-case scenarios in big seas? Marcus

Dear Steve & Linda: Received your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia Second Edition for Christmas 97 and I cannot stop reading it. I am at present building a 45ft steel motorsailor from a kit. The design includes welding a steel tube into the hull for the propeller shaft stern gear. As this tube is bored each end to accept the cutlass bearings and salt water is pumped through to lubricate these bearings, I am concerned about rusting of the inside of the tube and the corrosion around the cutlass bearing making for difficulty in removing for replacement bearing. Is it possible to manufacture the stern tube from stainless steel and weld the stainless to the steel hull? This would give the protection from corrosion. If it is (possible), what would be the ideal grade stainless steel? The propellor shaft is 316 grade. Regards, Dave

What is a web site that I can find out info on the offshore communications system that you use. The Trimble web site is not very enlightening about the Sat C system and has nothing about prices. Any info appreciated.

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers, solenoids etc. I can’t find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me?

Steve: Hi, We are one of those sailors who bought one of these machines and found out the not immediately apparent serious limitation of these machines: There is high volume of water consumption not for washing but to accomplish the condensation: there is a constant stream of cold water is piped to cool the drum.

And there is another big problem: the temperature of the cooling water. In the tropics the 85+F water temp may not accomplish the condensation at all?! We decided to forgo the installation all together and go to manual machines with clothes lines…John

I am currently reading your book Surviving the Storm. In the personal safety gear section you do not mention or opine on the harness PFD combination. What are your thoughts on this product? Dwayne C

Hi Steve, Thanks for the your great books! I have a 46-foot Catamaran “Wild Cat” and sailed south from Newport, CA on Dec 1st. I am still in Pardise Marina in Puerto Vallarta. I am trying to find the best route from the San Blas Islands, Panama to the USVI. I plan to be through the canal by March 1st. I would like to sail across as “high” as Puerto Rico’s eastern coast, but fear this may be to sailing to high to the prevailing wind, waves and current. As an alternative, I was thinking of sailing further NW to the Mona Passage between NW Puerto Rico and Domican Republic and go around the top of PR.

Steve, do you have any suggestions on what I might expect and the best route for crossing the Caribbean to the USVI, without having to go even further NW to Jamaica and around Haiti? Thank you for any insight you can offer. Hope to see you guys in the Caribbean. We met in Catalina a few years ago. Best Regards Frank & Tina

Could you please recommend medical courses for blue water cruisers going to remote areas, that take place preferably on the west coast of the US and on weekends before 4/1/01? I’m aware of some excellent 2-week courses, but just can’t fit those into our schedule at this point. Thanks, Doanne

I am looking at different courses in naval architecture and would appreciate any opinions you have. I am not employed in the boating industry, but figure that studying naval architecture could be helpful for both my interest in sailing, and as a future possible career path following a planned period of extended cruising. I have a degree in engineering. I have considered going back to university to do a masters (for example at Michigan), but I think this may miss the point; probably too academically focussed and esoteric research based. I have also looked at The Landing School in Maine, and Westlawn Institute distance courses. Unfortunately, I am having a tough time finding any independent opinion on any of the above avenues. I would appreciate it greatly if you have any opinions, or could suggest an alternative. Thanks & regards, Paul PS your publications are most interesting.

Hi SetSail! Following Steve’s lead when building our 50′ catamaran, PAPILLON, we installed sea chests to supply salt water to the watermaker, refrigerator, galley sink and head (stbd side) and genset, head, and deck wash (port). While at dock in Ft. Myers Beach (Estero River) this winter, the water from the starboard side has developed an awful stench–this despite: (a) daily turnover of the water in the sea chest through the refrigeration system (Glacier Bay), (b) cleaning of the chest itself about every 3 weeks, and (c) daily flushing of the head. The water at the sink and head are the real problems, due to sulfur smell. Have you experienced this type of problem, and what can you suggest? (The port side is rarely used and has been left filled with fresh water to delay the onset of the problem.) Thanks! – Julia P

Steve, In your BEOWULF PDF, and in the Cruising Encyclopedia you mention an exhaust pyrometer. For small Diesels—30 to 60 HP, wet exhaust—what kind, brand and range of temperature, sensor and display do you recommend? At what temperature should the alarm sound? Should I fit it closest to the exhaust manifold or closest to the muffler? Thanks for your constant support, Igor

Dear Steve and Linda: Your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia was extremely helpful to me when I was outfitting my BCC “Calliste” for extended cruising in 1998. Currently in Tin Can Bay, Qld., Australia, on hard stand, repairing a gelcoat failure and discovering other maintainance problems as well.

I have removed her two ss water tanks and was using a welder’s Ss pickling paste to remove the rust that developed around the welds on the outside of the tank. This revealed some deep pitting in some places, what looks to be a depth about half the thickness of the metal. Having trouble on deciding what to do, got any ideas to pass along ???

Have been enjoying your web site and will continue to do so, when we depart OZ. Sincerely, Douglas

Can you tell me what type of sanitation hose you like to use? We put in Shields hoses last year and now have a smell coming from the hose at the holding tank outlet. Any ideas? Dave

Where can I find more technical info on passages in El Niño years? I’ve been unable to find anything, even in your books and website. There’s talk of reinforced trades, reversed trades, and as you say reduced trades. Is there any solid data or experience on the subject? Many thanks again…Jan

Here (in new Zealand) it is difficult (read impossible) to get 500Hpa charts on weatherfax….what options can you recommend ? Thanks for your input. Best regards, Alan

Where can I find weather faxes for the Caribbean on the Internet?