What effect is there on propeller performance and vibration when fitted in the opposite rotation to that recommended by the boat builder?

I just purchased a 9 year old Grand Soleil Maxi One (19.5m) and am having a lot of problems with engine & MaxProp giving a lot of very bad vibrations and engine not being able to obtain correct cruising revs (should be about 2700/2800 rpm–and getting black smoke when revving above 2200rpm).

Obvious answer is the prop is over pitched. However, on checking with MaxProp rep here in Athens, he just serviced and refitted the prop with 20 degs with right rotation. According to the Manual on board from the builders (Canteir del Pardo) the prop should be 14 degs–Left Rotation.

Of course the over pitching of the prop answers the problem of the engine not revving etc, but would the wrong rotation cause increasingly bad vibrations the more rpm’s applied?

I need some urgent advice because the incorrect running of the engine over the last 8/9 years (by previous owner) has caused all sorts of problems including overheating, broken pipe in heat exchanger and blown gasket leading to water into the cylinders and turbo etc on my recent outing with service engineers on board testing the engine after service. Thus, decided to put new engine as do not want to have further trouble/time/expense of trying to renew/overhaul existing engine.

Obviously have to find also a solution for the bad vibrations, but I cannot get Maxprop or del Pardo to reply to my emails and faxes.

Hi Steve, I took your advice and got the next size bigger Bruce for my 46 foot, 28 ton displacement schooner. The new 110 lb anchor is quite a conversation piece sitting in the shop while we try to figure out how to mount it. We don’t think a standard bow roller will work because of the 90 deg turn needed to bring the shackle and anchor up onto the roller. It’s difficult enough with the current 60lb CQR. We’re thinking that a pivoting bow roller may work but I’ve not found any rated for that kind of weight. Can you recommend a roller or have any suggestions? Thanks, Carl

Dear Steve, From your books I learned you use schedule 70 chain. Have you had any problems with this chain losing its galvanization? Thanks! John

Good day, I am enjoy your site and also using as a reference source as I am presently having a 42′ aluminum cutter built.

I was wondering if you have and could post a detail/close-up look at your stanchion/lifeline setup. There are several pictures on your site which show an overview and it looks like you used SS pipe going into aluminum pipe stanchion bases welded to the deck. One picture looks like you used SS pipe for some of the lifelines. I would appreciate any details you can provide.

Thank you for considering this request. Cheers, John

Hello, Thanks for both the Offshore and Seamanship: both were great reads. The website is always good for a bit of day dreaming as well as loads of info. Keep up the good stuff!

I’m currently looking into purchasing a smaller (27ft) Dutch classic to enhance sailing, tech and nav skills on coastal North Sea before following the big step dream.

I’ve located a Trintel 1a – in steel and a Trintella 1a in GRP, essentially the same design, both from around 1971. I’d go for steel for security; but the problem is that the steel version is about twice as heavy, still, I’m a bit hesitant about "old plastic"; I’ve read about osmosis, but have no idea what it looks like. Could you give me any ideas on what to look for?

Thanks very much, Eltjo

Hi Steve, Firstly thanks for the books, most of which are bending my shelves. I am looking for my first bluewater cruiser (second hand) and am paralyzed by the conflicting hull material shortcoming. You extol aluminum but here in Australia they are expensive and few and far between ( I would love one however). Steel rusts like mad but is good for offshore can be fixed in far flung places and its integrity is sound up to the last minute before failure. GRP is very common but I understand on boats 10–20 years of age osmosis is common in about 60% of cases. Since I, like most people, need to be able to sell the boat at some stage to recover some funds, what is your advice? My view at present is I cannot trust GRP as I cannot be certain of the build quality in a second hand boat even with a survey. So using that logic steel appears to be my main option as what you see is what you get. Am I over petrified about GRP? Best Regards, Martin

We have an Ice Box (we are considering putting a cold plate or other cooling thingie in but the question remains the same). Has anyone come up with a handy way to utilize this unfriendly space? It is top loading, deep, and much longer than it is wide. I get very cranky trying to keep it together, get in there without a neck cramp and use the food before it goes bad. I was thinking there may be some plastic baskets that are tiered or stackable. Any ideas? Best, Carol

I read in PS May issue that your boat has a 24 volt system. Please let me know where one can easily buy 24 volt light blubs and fixtures. I’m having poor luck here in Northern Cal finding a source. Also, any good ideas for the best way to go for an interior heating system. Propane, diesel, etc. and best btus? Thanks, Mike

Dear Setsail, Would you know of a class we could take to be competent crew members of a sailing boat? We will be sailing with friends this June and would like to pick up a sailing course before going. We are in the Chicago and Michigan City, Indiana vicinity. Thanks, Cindy and Paul

Hi. we’re leaving Ft. Lauderdale, FL. for Charleston, SC, on Thursday; then in about 5 weeks headed for Norfolk VA. Any idea which marina around Norfolk/Hampton makes most sense to leave the boat at (8’4 Draft) from a convenience/security point of view? Regards Phillip

Hi: My name is Mike, and I am thinking about buying a boat and sailing Central America. I have several questions:

Is it better to offer myself as a crew member willing to work for room and board or is it better to go solo? How do I find out about navigating, sailing, which places are safe or unsafe? What is a good size boat to travel on if I was to make a ocean crossing?

I know these are somewhat vague questions, but if you could guide me in the right direction, I would be most appreciative. Thanks, Mike

Please can you help. We are new to boating and have a 40ft sailboat – recently the fuel tank was overfilled and as a result a valve in the gage popped and allowed a considerable amt of fuel into the bilge. I had just cleaned, polished etc the entire inside of the boat to make it smell OK after being closed up for some time and now it smells like the inside of a diesel tank!! Do you have any suggestion what we can do to help eliminate the smell – we are at Hastings, Victoria Australia and everyone here says we just have to live with it and it will diminish in time – I want to try anything – I get sea sick. Your comments will be appreciated. Thanks Bev

Dear Mr. Dashew, I am a cruising sailor planning on taking delivery of a new Hylas 46 in June 03. I have been investigating traction battery options since reading your Tech Talk Battery Maintenance article on SetSail. In addition to the Trojan alternative source mentioned in your article, Yuassa and IBE also manufacture traction batteries. I am particularity interested in IBE as they are a “local” manufacturer to me and the boat will be commissioned in Long Beach. IBE batteries are about 40% less expensive than the source you recommended and they appear to have good life expectancy (1500 cycles @ 80%)and a 5/15 year warranty.

Since they have been available for many years, I wanted to know if you had had any experience with them and, if so, could share that experience with me. The 40% cost deferential saves me over $1200 on a 1000AH 12V bank so I would like to have additional info to make an informed decision. I look forward to your response. Best Regards, Phil

Steve: In the section on engine exhaust systems in your Cruising Encyclopedia you indicate that the exhaust hose should be suspended on flexible mounts to limit noise transmission. In fact, there is a photo of that arrangement that shows a bracket that is hose-clamped to the exhaust hose. Is this bracket available as a stock part anywhere, or did you have it fabricated for BEOWULF? Thanks and best regards, Scott S

I am trying to decide on an LCD radar. I have looked at the JRC1500, the Furuno 1622 and the Raytheon SL72. What do you think is the best LCD radar choice on the market for the dollar? Thanks-Rick

I would like to see information for first time participants on rallies, races and regattas. I went on the NARC Rally thinking it was about safety and found myself in 30-35 kt. winds with gusts even higher. There was no reliable weather information after the weather briefing in Newport and trusted the coordinator to keep us safe and informed. We ended up calling the weather coordinator on our Gobalstar because he had no way of keeping updated on the weather. I would like to know what questions I should ask IF I EVER DO THAT AGAIN. What I should look for in a coordinator to judge the safety of the operation.

I read recently of your joining Sail Mail. I, like you, have a dedicated wfax. Have you switched to ssb–computer weather , or do you still use the wfax primarily? I have a SEA235, didn’t know about its duty cycle when I bought it, have a fast laptop with 400mb of ram, but am also told it will cost additional 1500-1700 dollars for the modem, cables etc. and additional software. So I desire your opinion as to its worth, primarily for weather. Thanks, Dave.

Hello, I’ve been reading Mariner’s Weather Weather (which I find very helpful and readable compared to several other weather books I’ve slogged thru, thanks!) and I was wondering what scale of 500mb and surface charts you recommend I study (as I try to get a hang of this theory before heading out sailing in a few years).

I’ve seen them ranging from very small areas to the world (particularly the 500 mb ones). Thanks, Glen

Hi Steve, I’m reading Offshore Cruising Enc. at the moment, which is excellent. We are a couple in the mid 30’s and plan to set sail along the Tradewinds on a Columbia 43 (MK I – 1970) we have seen and plan to buy. As you started in a Columbia 50, we would appreciate your feelings about Columbia 43’s for Tradewind sailing (and maybe more in future). We are not too happy with the deep draft and the unprotected rudder, however, she seems safe, comfortable, with lots of room and most importantly, she would be in line with our budget for that size of waterline! Any thoughts? Thanks a lot !!! Stephan

Sir, I am considering the purchase of a 1992 Beneteau Oceanis 440. My ideal boat would be around 38-40 ft., but since the 440 appears to be offered at a substantial discount, both the longer waterline and the extra budget room for refit attract me.

I am keen on performance, and the 440's hull is the same of its First 45S5 sister, both designed by Farr. I don't like the high centre of gravity of the boat, and consider changing the keel (currently 1.7 m) to a deeper, lead-bulbed one, as the draft on a similar size performance boat would easily reach 2.2-2.5 m. Later on, I will upgrade the rig. I understand the boat is capable of handling the extra loads.

My question is: Would you recommend such an operation? In other words, is it worth the trouble? I reckon the keel upgrade can be achieved with a budget of circa Usd 5000, because a preventive anti-osmosis treatment already is getting me close to the keel base, thus I am only counting the cost of the new keel and installation. However, especially for lighter wings I presume only a larger sail area will make a substantial performance change over present, and on a boat of this size I assume I will get pretty close to Usd 13000-15000 for a new bigger rig.

With best regards, Murat

Hi Steve & Linda, Well we have made the first step!….I have resigned from my job and my wife has secured a two year leave of absence from her job (starting in July). Thanks in large part to you guys who have inspired us over the years we shall take our two kids 9 & 11 on a two year adventure. I am using the next 6 months to prepare the house for rent, sell my current boat (33′ too small) and buy THE BOAT. I have your book…it is my bedside companion…and have followed your website and FAQs. I’m going for waterline if I can find one in my budget–approx. $150K…we have been looking at the Hylas 44 and 47…your comments on this boat would be appreciated. We intend to spend 6 mos. in the Bahamas (our backyard) then on to the Caribbean. Many thanks!

Hi Steve, Along with other boats, I’ve been looking at a 47-foot ketch that has 454 sq.ft. in the foretriangle, 416 in the main (only one set of spreaders) and 182 in the mizzen. As the mizzen represents only 17% of sail area, by your recommendations on pg.645 of the Encyclopedia, this sail is more decorative than useful and the boat would probably be better rigged as a sloop with a removable inner forestay. If the mizzen were removed and a second set of spreaders added to the main mast to support the inner forestay, could this boat be expected to sail just as before? Or, is it more likely that the main mast would have to be moved aft and both the main and headsail be replaced? Thx for your comments, DM

Greetings- Any chance you know where to buy Kevlar chafe pads? The type I’m referring to are typically about 1 foot diameter and are deck mounted to prevent damage from unsupported blocks. I can’t find these anywhere. Thanks, Randy M

I recently read an article from Forespar, showing that your 78 foot Beowulf is using their AeroRigging spars. My question to you is, does this set up support less maintenance, ease of sailing? Also, I am very close to ordering a 46′ Prout Catamaran, and I am considering my custom rigging options. Which way would you go: Carbon Fibre Spars and Poles AeroRig Furlaway E-Z Furl? I will primarily be the only sailor aboard. Would you please share some of your tried and true experiences with me regarding the way you would go in this situation? Rory

Hello Steve: We are the owners of Tera Nova which we have renamed Mango Tango. We are sailing her around the world and are currently in Malaysia at Port Dickson Marina. We plan to join the Raja Muda Regatta in November. We have done a complete refit since buying the boat in 1999. We added A/C and a generator, changed motors to a 110 HP Volvo, and repainted and many small changes including carbon fiber pole and electric halyard winch. We have averaged, since leaving on our trip, 195 miles per day when sailing. The boat is just terrific we just have not seen any boat as owner friendly, fast and comfortable. We would like to install an asymmetrical spinnaker and would like your advice on a bow sprit. Thank You.

Hello, I was hoping to get your opinion on the S2 9.2 center cockpit…My plan is to liveaboard the boat in the Seattle and/or Portland areas, cruise the Sound, and at the maximum cruise up and down the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North America and cross the Atlantic to Bermuda and back. All this sailing will be done “in season” – I have no intention of tackling the North Pacific in the middle of winter, for instance. My sailing skills are minimal so I don’t really want to get in over my head when it comes to waterline/size…figured the 30′ S2 with its aft stateroom and center cockpit would be a good compromise…? Thanks…

I am familiar with your suggested method of towing a regular inflatable by running lines from eyes on transom, forward and down through the lifting handle. Now I have just bought a new RIB and wondered how you recommend towing one of these babies! It has a D-ring glassed in the bow, near the waterline. Would this be the best place to tow from??

Thanks so much for your response!–Rodd

Dear Linda and Steve, It has been a while since we first wrote you and we are making progress on the particulars of a our next boat which we hope to use for a couple of years of voyaging, starting in Northern Europe in the summer of 2002 and ending in New Zealand. We have dog-eared our copies of OCE and STS and just returned from a weekend weather course with Mike Carr. We seem to be a bit “in irons” on a couple of topics and would love your advice on them and perhaps a general thought on the direction we seem to be heading with the boat. Background: I am 41, have sailed/raced for 25 years, raced my Ohlson 38 to Hawaii a few years ago, several other blue water passages under my belt, have moderate mechanical aptitude. Nancy is 29, sailed for 4 years, is taking additional sailing courses, a little frightened of the long passages, and nervous about anything other than a bullet-proof boat. We are both reasonably fit. We are sold on the advantages of long waterline for comfort and speed and since we will not be cruising for very long (this time) want to get a boat that will have a strong resale value (that and inexperience in owning a larger boat have caused us to not consider a custom boat).

Potential Boat: we have a tentative contact on a Swan 56 that will be a one-cockpit design with hydraulic furling headsail, a manual furling stay sail, and some type of manual boom-furling main (to permit easy in-the-cockpit reefing by one person) a couple of electric winches, a bow thruster, etc. A little more mechanically and electrically complex in order for us to easily and safely short-hand a longer water line boat. 1) Hard dodger – My bias is to get one, but several experienced sailors are telling me otherwise. They claim we’ll be fine with a soft dodger, that the hard dodger will look bad, potentially reduce the after-market price unless it is easily removed, in the tropics it will impede airflow and make the cockpit hot when at anchor. They say that we’ll not want or need the dodger in the tropics. No one at Swan wants us to get one of these – in fact German will not allow the factory to build one, it would have to be added after Nautor releases the boat to us. What do you think? I know we’ll appreciate the hard dodger for the mid-latitude portions of our trip, but what about the tropics where 70% of our trip will be spent? If we do get one, how big would you suggest? Our cockpit is about 8.5 feet from the aft end of the companion way to the (huge) wheel and about 2.5 feet from the wheel aft.

If we do opt for a hard dodger how much of the cockpit should we cover. We want room to sit and read in the sun/breeze, eat meals under the stars, etc. (80% of the time there will be only the 2 of us on board).

We’d love any other thoughts on the topic.

2) Auto pilot – With only two of us this has to be a bullet-proof system and I am thinking that we may want to install two complete systems so that we have redundancy. I have been pleased with my B&G system, Nautor knows and likes these systems and they seem to be wide enough spread that repair will be possible in many places. The B&G with an oversized RAM is the recommendation of Nautor and friends at KKMI here in the Bay Area who have a lot of experience with these systems. On the other hand the WH system that you have seems very interesting, if a bit less user friendly. I have tried to get some information but haven’t had a lot luck and am some what skeptical of buying electronic equipment from niche manufacturers who haven’t made a serious financial investment in the sailing market. My most important criterion is dependability and reliability, my second criterion is that I’d like it to be fast enough and smart enough to use on a short-handed Hawaii race.

Can you give me any additional thoughts? WH vs. B&G? Two redundant systems?

Any general comments on our potential boat choice and direction would be welcomed.

Congratulations on the 1500 and we love your books, videos, and web site. Nancy is already checking out the vacuum packers and the Splendide. Thanks very much if you find the time to respond. (I know you must get dozens of these types of messages and certainly can’t answer them all.) Fair winds, Scott and Nancy

Hi Steve, I’ve just found your website and have a couple of questions. I live on a 1977 40ft Cheoy Lee ketch. It is quite spacious and has a full keel. I couldn’t help noticing that you don’t mention Cheoy Lee’s anywhere on your web. Do you see this as a good cruiser and is a full keel better in weather? Thanks, Todd

We are flying to Florida this week to look at a couple of boats. We currently own a ’95 Caliber 40 that we have prepared for offshore cruising. Your Encyclopedia and the 2 hour Offshore video have been very helpful in those preparations. Now that we have our 6,000 sq foot home for sale we have decided that a 40 footer may be a bit small for permanent liveaboard for two people, Just the two of us have lived in this monster house for 18 years. We plan to live on our new boat until I am 64 or 65. I just turned 52 and my wife is 44 years old.

I have a 1987 Ericson 34 MKII and am looking to replace my mainsail. Why would I consider a tri-radial verses a cross cut mainsail? I do not race but the family enjoys going fast. Thanks

I wonder if you have any opinion on electric propulsion? I am considering re-powering with a Solomon system. I have a 30hp Westerbeke diesel at this point. I am cruising full time with lots of hours at anchor. Comparing prices, diesel/electric, is a definite apples/oranges situation, with the result being that I may decide based on my dislike of the internal combustion engine. Certainly would appreciate your reaction to the this concept used in a cruising sailboat. Ross

Aloha from Hanalei Bay, Kauai. I am in the process of making a hurricane plan for AVALON, one of your beautiful, well thought out and seaworthy Sundeer 60s. She is now happily living in Nawiliwili, Kauai.

I think that in the event of a hurricane I will anchor her in the harbor rather than leave her at the dock. I am considering a 50 lb Danforth style anchor on about 20 feet of chain shackled to the 120 lb Bruce on the 5/16 schedule 70 300 ft anchor cable. I also plan to put a 30 lb kellet on the chain rode. Thoughts? Aloha, Scott

what is your view on using big swivel to connect the anchor to the chain? I was reading Earl Heinz’ book on anchoring and it seems important to put them on the right way around – Phil

Hi Steve, I am looking to buy a plan of a sailboat with between 38 & 40 feet with small draft (1.20 to 1.40 m). I know Hartley boats but I would like to contact other designers that have plans to be made in Ferrocement. Do you know any? Best Regards, Eduardo

I just ordered a J-BOAT J 109, and would appreciate your opinion about the possibility to improve the security in terms of buoyancy if…I learnt that inflatable buoyancy bags are not currently available; to my knowledge the only builder Yachtsaver is not still on the market. Another solution for this boat would be to transform the door between the forecabin and the saloon into a water pressure resistant door, such as in boats like the Maramu by Amel. This solution is not perfect, but, since the main risk is a frontal collision, it may be a significant point. In my opinion, at sea, a door must be open or closed, and the forecabin is not usable in practice. So, at sea, this door can be closed. How to get something efficient, light, and safe? I wonder if a device such as a timbered safety door, as those for theft protection would be the solution. I am very interested in your analysis and I would be grateful if you could help me. Yours sincerely, Alain P

I’m trying to put zincs on the outside of the alum. hull. No one seems to know how to do it. I can only go by what little was in your book, do they need to be tied together with wire on the inside from the bolts, and should the zincs be against the alum. Hull or can I put them on after the 3 coats of 2000e, or not have them on at all. I would appreciate any help. Thanks, Dale

Ladies / Gentlemen, I am writing to you because I read where you were a proponent of balsa cored laminate hull construction techniques and have employed balsa coring in the hull construction of some of your boats.

I am considering buying a used cruising sailboat to liveaboard. It is a Bruce Roberts designed 36, pilothouse / cutaway full keel ketch, constructed in 1981, and has a fiberglass hull cored with balsa.

It is not my first boat. I have previously owned a 34 foot skipjack ketch, and a 32 foot Al Mason designed steel sloop, which I lived aboard for two years.

I have searched around the Internet, fruitlessly, for articles or information about balsa cored hulls (except for the Baltek Corp. site–very informative about new technologies). Therefore, could you please direct me to sources for information on evaluating balsa core constructed hulls? Also, the boat is moored in the Ft. Pierce, Florida area. Could you recommend a competent marine surveyor in that area who could conduct a survey of the vessel for me? I am reluctant to just choose any accredited surveyor and not get someone who knows what to look for in evaluating balsa core composite hull construction.

I don’t want to buy a water logged boat. The Baltek site claims that end grain balsa has a closed cell structure and, therefore, very little permeability, even after being submerged for long periods, and covered by fiberglass gelcoat subject to seepage–based on a 14 year test they conducted.

I plan on having the boat hauled for inspection, as part of a pre purchase survey, but am reluctant to start drilling holes in someone else’s’ hull when I’m not even sure of what I would be looking for; spongy? A certain sound when banged against? Also, I am in Louisiana. Before going to the expense of going all the way to Florida, I’d like ask more informed questions of the owners, regarding construction details of the hull laminate process.

Any thoughts you might share with me on the subject would be appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration. By the way, your boats, and the design logic underlying them, are brilliantly conceived. Sincerely, Ed

I presently own a Furuno 1502 and would like to hook up with a modem (pactor) and a laptop, in order to be able to e-mail from the boat, providing I have a provider like Sea Mail. In your opinion, which is the most effectively equipped laptop to do the job, or how should this laptop be equipped for optimum performance? Please share this info with me before I purchase the wrong laptop. Thank you very much. I plan to sail the Caribbean this spring, so I am getting prepared. Regards, Peter

Hi Steve, I have an ozone generator made by Quantum but I have been reluctant to leave it on for long periods because I understood that ozone would cause deterioration of rubber goods. I see that you leave it on the boat during lay up. Is it on constantly? How do you use it ? Thanks Mike B. s/v Spurwing

Dear Steve and Linda- I read with great interest your article about vacuum packing food and clothes. (To read the article, click here.) We are planning on cruising the Caribbean in a few years, and I have a few questions if you don’t mind.

When you said that you vacuum packed cereals, how did you do that without crushing the cereal to crumbs? (Did you buy any of the Tillia hard storage containers, or use glass mason jars?) How did you vacuum pack flour into bags, without the flour being sucked into the machine?

Finally, how in the world do you get jackets into the little bags for the food/fresh saver? I can see using the bags sold to be compressed by a vacuum cleaner, as they are quite large, but haven’t had much real success with them keeping their seal–but I may have had a bad batch.

Thanks for your help. Beth

Dear Steve, I approach you as a new cruiser seeking contact with other young cruisers, particularly women. I am 34 years old and while I have enjoyed the contact with the many retirees we’ve met and have learned greatly from their age and wisdom, I feel somewhat isolated by my comparative youth.

I have found it quite challenging adjusting to this new lifestyle and feel the books I’d read didn’t prepare me for the emotional challenges I would be facing. I would greatly appreciate any direction you could offer with regards to contacting others in a similar position.

My partner and I are hoping to return to the UK eventually, we are currently sailing the Sea of Cortez. Sincerely, Gemma L

My wife and I are readers of all your books, and recent acquirer’s of the MaxSea software (still in set-up). My question is about leaving a boat in the Caribbean for two months in the winter. We are planning to sail from New England (home) to islands in early November 02′. We then need to leave the boat until mid January, at which point we’ll do a six month sabbatical on the boat. Do you have any thoughts on where, or with whom we should leave the boat for that “holiday” period? I have considered both dockside, or hauled out, and was thinking of the BVI, or Antigua. Thanks for your thoughts. Best regards, John

Hi. Can you help we are looking for cruising insurance. We are at present in New Zealand and are about to set off on a world cruise in our 40ft steel yacht. But are having trouble finding cruising insurance we can afford. Can you help? Regards John

We are planning a circumnavigation with our 3 young children in the near future. We’ve read various accounts of pleasure boats encountering pirates around the world. Is there a place to find the listings of the worst areas, so we can try to avoid them, as much as possible? I know there will be some areas with problems that will be unavoidable during a complete circumnavigation, but I’d like to minimize that risk as much as possible. If it were just the two of us, that’s one thing, but to expose young children to that kind of terror concerns me very much. I’d really like to find out just how likely we are to encounter them. I probably sound paranoid, but figure the more info the better!

Also:

I was told there was a family of five (or 6?) currently doing a circumnavigation on their 60 foot sailboat, and that they were posting details of their voyage on your website (and that they welcomed correspondence). We are planning to do the same thing in just a couple years, with a Morgan 41. We have 3 young children also, so would be very interested in hearing about someone else traveling with young kids.

Thank you for your time!–Anne

Steve, I’ve been sailing over 67 years. I sail a 1973 Pearson 33. I’m on the verge of installing a Frigoboat Keel Cooler system, which, as you no doubt know, runs the refrigerant tube thru a shoe outside the hull for cooling. However, I have concerns about corrosion and marine fouling, as the shoe cannot be painted. The salesperson that I’m dealing with said (his spelling): "Sailing gurus Nigel Calder, Tom Neal, and Steve Dashew all use and endorse the keel cooler." Tom Neale is not familiar with it and I haven’t yet reached Nigel Calder. Do you have a track record with the keel cooler? Sincerely, from the Jersey Shore, George

One of my batteries won’t hold a charge too long because either something is draining off some current and/or it got over charged when I was once having alternator problems. Any ideas? How does one test gel batteries? Thanks in advance, Marvin

Good afternoon Steve and Linda…Continuing to benefit from owning and referring to your fabulous Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia…A great investment and representative of hard work on your part…I also continue to work on buying that Jeanneau 34 I mentioned to you about a month ago by e-mail, and I saw her for the first time yesterday at her new home in New Bern where she has just arrived from being in the Caribbean for most of her seven years…She is up on the hard for now, which gave me the opportunity to see her hull below the waterline…There is noticeable blistering on both sides…Close to a dozen on each side…They are all the same size…About two inches diameter and all open and faired like somebody has already been working on them….Do you consider this type of hull blistering to be a significant fly in the ointment? I can’t find it now, but I recently read an article with the point of view that hull blistering is inevitable and is really not such a big deal…that the core fiberglass remains sound…Do you share this view? Would you say these existing blisters should be filled in? Also the rudder is not on a skeg, which is probably a strike against her would you say? Thanks mucho.

Hi Steve, We have a 50′ aluminum ketch (1978 French design) here in Seattle. We’re leaving for our next trip in 18 months ( the first trip was a 5-year circumnavigation) and are trying to decide whether to pay the money now to repaint the bottom with a TBT paint at very high cost or wait until Mexico. What do you think is the best long-term plan for antifouling?

Re sailing to Bermuda, what’s the best weatherfax station for the trip–New Orleans? And for Bermuda–Newport, is it the Boston station? Anything we need to worry about weatherwise for the Virgin Gorda–Bermuda run or is it pretty straightforward this time of year? As for Bermuda–Newport, I am basically terrified and am quite tempted by American Airlines. This, from someone who’s sailed 5800 miles, now! There’s no reforming a worrier…

Steve, Do you know of a good display of Gulfstream temperature and current conditions available online (i.e. that shows eddies and current patterns)? Thanks.

We are due to leave Mexico at the beginning of April and spend the season sailing the Pacific Islands. From our reading and research we are unsure which weather and fax stations provide the best information for which areas. Is there is a source for this information or can you make recommendations? In addition we have heard that New Zealand and Fiji are newly co- operating on producing forecasts for cruisers and would like to know if this is correct, where the results are broadcast from, the schedules and the channels used for faxes and forecasts. Many thanks Dudley and Philippa

Steve: Are there two versions of the Sundeer 60, a shorter 56 and a longer 60? With a 60ft is this perhaps why the owner of TOUCAN moved the rudder further aft? Would it make sense to do it, i.e. would it improve control, say, downwind; are there any drawbacks? Have other 60’s done the same? I’d be interested in your thoughts; haven’t been able to speak with the owner. In advance, thanks…Peter

Hi–I’m planning to buy a boat for cruising round the world in the next year and have just ordered your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. I’m interested in prices for your range of yachts–probably looking at 60–65 ft but BEOWULF does look interesting. I would be grateful if you can send me at least budgetary figures for the base boat with basic fit-out (no instruments) and working sails. Many thanks Mark

Steve: I am a novice sailor hoping to buy my first boat this spring. I will be lake sailing for now; however, I am contemplating a relocation to the Gulf Coast of Florida. I have been considering a new Hunter 260, primarily for weekending, and because the size seems manageable. My questions are, what size do you think is appropriate to learn basic sailing skills; and whether you think that I would be better off with an older and longer boat to start out with. I read in some of the FAQs that you recommend mid to late ’60’s and early ’70’s CCA and IOR designs. What boats specifically do you recommend? I am sure that I could get much more waterline in an older boat, than I will for what the H260 costs brand new. Any ideas? Thank you. David

I am restoring a 1980 Cheoy Lee 44 Ketch. She currently has wood spars. I have been considering having a taller main aluminum mast made with a longer boom and removing the mizzen all together, running her as a sloop. Is this possible? P.S. Love your books!! Best Regards, Larry

A rigging question: What make (I assume ProFurl) and model furler would you recommend for our big reacher? The little Hood unit that was on the boat has a nice small headfoil for minimal windage but marginal drum capacity even at 5/16″ line for this big sail? These Spectra sheets and halyards are great! Have you had any problems with knots (bowlines) failing? Ref. June Sail magazine article. Thanks, Kurt

My husband and I are in the process of buying our first boat ever. We plan to live aboard while we learn to sail. I found a 1972 Challenger 40 for $29,000. It has a 13’10” beam and is really well laid out–we’d be quite comfortable living in it. However, it needs all of the rigging replaced. We just read an article in Cruising World about the costs of refitting a boat which gave a rigging replacement estimate of $10,000. In your opinion, do you think this would be worth it? We don’t mind investing elbow grease and gear costs, but we also don’t want to “go down with the ship” on this! Thank you! Erin

Steve, Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge and experience in your book series. Accompanied by your videos, they are assisting us in mastering the significant learning curve. Last year, after careful consideration of your discussion of maxi roach full batten mainsails, we made the jump and invested in a new main and car system for our Endeavor 38. Wow! A substantial increase in performance, plus a new sense of confidence in a wide variety of sailing conditions. The new main provides enough drive that we routinely use a much smaller headsail and we have reduced weather helm. However, our battens continue to be a source of frustration. When reefing, furling, or raising the mainsail, the battens bend and flop out of the lazy jacks, dragging the rear third of the sail material with them.

In addition, starting in moderate air, the battens seem to be overly flexible and don’t seem to respond enough when flattening the sail. Additionally, the battens donÕt appear to be stiff enough to control the sailcloth as the main lays on the boom. Our initial diagnosis is that the battens are not stiff enough given the sail size, aggressive roach, and cloth weight (7.5 oz). The fundamental question is how do you tell when you have arrived at the right batten stiffness? I suspect our sailmakerÕs choice of batten material (pultruded 1 5/8Ó glass) was based on the availability of standard materials. If the analysis is correct, what is a source for stiffer battens? Dave

Hi Steve- I read a question in the Q&A section of cruising central. It was the one where you said that getting into sailing dinghies for a summer would be comparable to sailing a larger boat for a few years. I already know how to sail and I sailed a dinghy as a youngster. Now I’d like to get into cruising 30-40 footers long distances. Would dinghy racing also benefit me as far as learning and experience in sailing? There are many dinghy fleets here in San Diego that I could readily join. I’m a 50-year-old guy and I’d like to become a capable cruiser before I’m too old. Thank you very very much for your valued guidance. Kevin

Please tell me the maximum feet of trimaran a single sailor can handle. Thanks.

Dear Steve and Linda, My wife and I finally made the big jump and are sailing around the world. We’re now in Lisbon, Portugal. A friend of ours lent us your book, Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. It’s wonderful, and we look forward to borrowing it again. We read with great interest your comments about the Alpha 3000 as this is our primary autopilot. (We have no wind vane) So far we’ve had only minor problems which were turned into major problems when the unit was returned to the company for repairs. Mostly due to Barron and now Chris, who refuses to even give out his last name. The company’s mode of operation is beyond my comprehension. We’re wondering if you could give us any input as to what we can do to keep our autopilot working in the best possible fashion without returning it to the factory. Thanking you in advance. Our wishes to you and your family for a Happy Holiday season and your best New Years ever. Harold

Hi Steve, I read that you felt at one time your Sundeer 56/60 was one of your best designs. After your experience with Beowulf, are there any significant changes that you would make to that boat? A better question is if you were going to design a similar sized boat today, what would it be like? Thank you, Downing Mears

I love your design concepts of fast cruising sailboats designed to be handled by a couple. I have a few questions that, if you have the time, I would love to get answered.

I have read your design paper for BEOWULF and it looks like a terrific boat. How is the water ballast working out and do you ever worry about having all that ballast on the wrong side in the event of an accidental jibe? What do you think of the use of carbon fiber, particularly in masts? And have you considered the use of a free-standing mast? What do you think of the Fox 50 concept of converting an Around Alone Open 50 design to an ultra-fast cruising boat? I think they were to be built by TPI and Lyman Morse, although after the initial hoo-ha I have not heard anything about them. They seem to take your concepts a step farther, but perhaps too far.

Thanks, Pete

I’m about to order a gennaker for my Sabre 402 and have been trying to decide between your snuffer and ATN’s. For dousing, ATN recommends blowing the tack before pulling the snuffer down. If I am reading your response to Doug Peters’s question about this, you seem to be recommending easing the sheet. Having had some difficulty doing this with the non-ATN, non-North snuffer on my last boat, ATN’s idea seems sensible to me. Is there a reason I couldn’t take this approach with your snuffer?

Dear Steve, I have a Kelly Peterson 46 with a fixed 3-blade prop. I want to change it to a feathering prop. I am intrigued by the continuously adjusting Autoprop which is supposed to match pitch to engine rpm and twist more or less flat to cut drag under sail to 85% of a fixed blade prop. I wonder what happens to the independently adjusting blades when barnacles form and they become unbalanced. Maxprop has less drag under sail but its pitch is optimized for max rpm and falls off (like fixed props) at lower engine rpm. Do you know how well these things work in the field? Any kudos or horror stories. Thanks, Carl

Hello, Thanks for your excellent books and CDs. We have purchased your Encyclopedia and CD but have not gotten off cruising to the Carribe yet. Soon though.

In following your recommendations on anchoring, (we purchased a 65 lb Spade Anchor and will back it up with 200 feet of ACCO 3/8s Chain with oversized links on each – and following your admonition it must be the right size as our dockmates have laughed at the size we bought), but we had a question as to what shackle you are using with your system. We want to insure that our shackle will not be the weakest part of our system. Can you advise the maker and size of shackles in use on your boat? Ed & Sue

Hydraulic motors. You mention the problems with running your anchor windlass, the need for large wire size to minimize voltage drop on the long run to the bow. Why not power the windlass with a hydraulic motor? You already have a pump onboard for the auto pilot, even adding an additional pump would provide some redundancy for the autopilot system. Now all you need is a tiny motor and a couple skinny (1/4 in od) lines running up to the bow. These motors are robust, simple, easily speed and overload controlled, corrosion resistant (I own a chemical plant, believe me I know about corrosion!), very lightweight… I first saw these used at a plant in Norway. All the agitators drive motors (probably 10 total) were run by a single hydraulic drive pump. Speaking of multiple motors, how about that big power winch you use on Beowulf? Slap a hydraulic motor on that thing too and get rid of the need for a 24 volt electric system all together!

Hello from New Zealand, We are a 40ft aluminium sailboat called Wyndeavor. We’ve sailed from the Pacific Northwest to New Zealand with our two kids and have recently put our boat on the market. The paint on our boat was chipping terribly so we decided to go with bare aluminium in order to help the boat sell (low maintenance). We recently had the boat sandblasted and are not too happy with the outcome. We have covered most of the deck with a nonskid product (Treadgrip) but the rest of the deck and hull to the waterline are bare. The bare aluminium is very rough and our feet and fingers leave marks. We understand that you have a lot of experience dealing with aluminium so we were wondering if you had any advice regarding these issues. Should we sand the decks? Will it get better as the boat oxidizes? Should we just leave it be? Can you help? Regards, Kelly

Hi, I am planning a circumnavigation and am in the process of buying the appropriate boat as large as possible for two to handle. At the moment it looks like an X-562 will fit our needs fine. It can be delivered with a 2.8m draft and a 2.5m draft. I am going North Europe-Canaries, West Indies, Galapagos, Fiji, NZ, Australia, India, Red Sea. Can you give me an indication of the draft which in your opinion allows us to go the most nice places on the route?

My wife and I have read the Cruising Encyclopedia. It’s a fantastic guideline for sailors. All kinds of tips and safety issues we put on our 37ft sailboat. After reading the book we had only one wish. Making our own cruise in the year 2004 with our two daughters in a Sundeer yacht.

Buying a new or secondhand model is not possible. But we wonder if it’s possible to buy a hull of a Sundeer 56 and finish the interior of the boat in three or four years ourselves, with the Cruising Encyclopedia as a guideline. Some questions were raised when we thought about this idea. I hope you can find the time to answer the following questions. I thank you in advance.

1) Do you sell drawings of the Sundeer 56 so we can have the hull made in Holland? If so what are the costs. 2) Are there already Sundeer yachts built in Europe? If so who can I contact for information. 3) The original Sundeers are made of aluminum. I want to make the boat from steel. Is that possible? -Peter

I really like the push knobs you use on your galley cabinetry, but cannot seem to find them locally. Could you let me know who your supplier is? Much appreciated, Wendy

Greetings! I have been doing alot of reading lately, specifically your Surviving the Storm and the latest Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia books. Excellent pieces of work by the way! I came across a piece of information that puzzled me but I figured it was just a typo. But more recently I came across it again in your FAQ on setsail.com. Specifically, the reference is to the fact that a dipole antenna is superior to a long wire (i.e. insulated backstay). I’m confused about the reference to a dipole giving 8 times the output compared to a longwire. A normal simple dipole antenna has a gain of 3db which results in twice the output not 8 times. Also, the dipole is directional with fairly deep null areas off the ends of the antenna so the 3db gain figure is only really true relative to a point broadside to the antenna. If you really know of a dipole configuration with an 8x advantage (that would be a gain of 9db) please let me know. I currently use a whip for marine SSB and an insulated backstay for the ham rig. Some more gain over the unity gain solutions will be greatly appreciated. Also, thanks for the info on the WH Autopilot. You sold me, I will be ordering one very soon! Smooth Sailing!–Doug Dotson

We have purchased a 1973 43′ Gulfstar Trawler which is in need of interior refurbishing. We are interested in cork or bamboo products for flooring and wall paneling. Would these products be acceptable for the marine environment? Thank you- Kathleen and Rufus