Dear Steve and Linda, At the end of summer 2004 I plan to leave on an extended cruise/possible circumnavigation on a 25-foot Hunter. It’s an older version, around 1984 or so, with the solid keel at four feet draft and not the plastic trailerable type hunters of today. God willing, I will sail from Lake Erie to the Atlantic, through the Erie Canal and Hudson River, through the Intra-coastal down to the Keys, and eventually through the Panama Canal into the South Pacific. My question is one of concern for the seaworthiness of the boat. She handles lake conditions well but I fear her light displacement might cause some due risk if ever caught in severe open ocean weather. I am 28 and hold a Captain’s License for unlimited tonnage and have long since looked at righting moments and different load plans for the trip. I was hoping you could provide some experienced insight and opinion on whether or not this particular boat may be considered a safe passage maker. Thank you very much for your time. – Gunar

There is a 1985 Deerfoot 72 on the market, apparently built by Dencho Marine. This design is not listed in your “Milestones.” Is this one of your boats? Any info on quality or issues? Even though it is newer, it is priced considerably less than Wakaroa (it is clear from the pictures that the interior finishes are not nearly of the same quality). Thanks for any info you can provide. Mark

Due in part to your wonderful books and timing, I will be looking for a yacht this summer in the US My short list looks something like this:

Palmer Johnson (Aluminum), Frers 45, 1981, PHRF30— Just the basics Palmer Johnson (Aluminum), Peterson 42, 1976, PHRF60— Moderate cruising comfort Davidson (Fiberglass), Laurie Davidson 44, 1981, PHRF54— Moderate to well equipped for cruising Jeremy Rogers (Fiberglass), Peterson 39, 1981, PHRF72— Well equipped for cruising Aquacraft 1979 (Aluminum), Custom 41, 1977, PHRF90?— Just the basics, but a good price C&C (Fiberglass), Many 39-41, 1977-82, PHRF 99— Various.

I will be using it to cruise the Atlantic and Mediterranean for the most part, but one of these days a circumnavigation would not be out of the question. My questions are…Am I on the right track with these choices for the intended purpose, or have I missed the mark completely? From your experience, are there any of these I should stay away from, or buy in a hurry before anyone else does? I know you are busy, but a quick comment or two would be greatly appreciated.–Regards, Tom

I just received the new book and video. It will take some time to read the book, but I have some comments about the video.

BEOWULF is an incredible boat; however, I must admit that it is a bit discouraging knowing that in all likelihood I will never be able to afford a boat like that. I am impressed with the thought and engineering that went into the boat, and I want to know if Steve & Linda have designed a lower priced boat, or if they recommend any boats in the $100 to $300M price range. Perhaps a used boat. My family of 5 is hoping to begin a cruising life in the next 3 years.

Can a ratchet block be used in order to control the release of a furling line?

The 44′ boat I recently purchased uses a small diameter spectra line for furling, and if and when it takes off in a breeze, it can do great damage to the hands! If you let it go, it usually kinks in the aft furling block. Thanks, Ted

Dear Mr. Dashew: November 2001 Sail magazine contains an article by naval architect Roger Marshall titled "Seamanship in High Winds" in which he states (page 36), “…I believe that every boat that is intending to go offshore should have a staysail stay, possibly made of aramid, on which to set the storm jib.” My question concerns the nature of such a staysail stay made of aramid. Could this be as simple as an aramid halyard attached to a folding padeye on deck made tight with a winch? (Assuming the geometry of the aramid halyard/staysail stay would be acceptable using the topping lift sheave, for example.) If so, such an arrangement might appeal to coastal cruisers such as myself, who would like to have the option of using a hanked-on storm jib on a staysail stay but have difficulty justifying a conventional staysail stay installation due to its low frequency or probability of use.

If my understanding, as set out above, of what Mr. Marshall intends is correct, how satisfactory would such an arrangement be in actual use? Do you believe this would be a good option for coastal cruisers such as myself? (I realize the scope of my question ignores additional important considerations like keeping the mast in column, possibly using running backstays or swept-back spreaders, etc. and the structural concerns of the deck handling the loads.) If such an installation is a reasonable approach, I am sure you can see the potential appeal for some cruisers. If one were lucky, installation might be as simple as installing a folding padeye on deck, replacing the topping lift with aramid line run to an appropriate winch (assuming the topping lift sheave is located opposite upper swept back spreaders) and buying a storm jib with hanks. Wishful thinking? As always, thank you for your assistance.—Downing Mears

Hello. We have the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and the Mariner’s Weather Handbook, as well as the Dashew Offshore Video (which my VCR promptly ate), and I’ve enjoyed them immensely.

We have a 1978 Hudson Force 50 Ketch. We have just found out that our mizzen mast is rotten, and are planning to replace it with an aluminum one. My question is about the (wooden, painted) main mast and boom. According to a very experienced friend, the main mast has “some” rot, but may be able to be saved by removing all hardware and stripping it down to the wood, and inspecting. If we/he determines the mast can be fixed, we would fix the rotten places and repaint the mast. He thinks both port side spreaders will need to be replaced.

In addition, the main boom has bad rot in the lower scarf, just below the glue joint, (also) just below the big bronze fitting (name?) on the boom, which attaches to the gooseneck. The stainless tangs on the main look, at best, “fair”.

We plan to take the boat offshore in a few years. If we refurb the mast, is it advisable to replace the stainless (it is 1978 Taiwanese stainless) with new 316? Do you think the risk justifies replacing the main mast/boom with a new aluminum spar also? Thanks, Mike

Hi Steve, In Surviving the Storm you suggest that yachts under 40 feet will find that they should set the trysail instead of a second reef when the wind gets into the upper 20-knot range. You also suggest that a small trysail is needed for really heavy air. Is this a contradiction? And can it be resolved by using a reefing trysail? I know Donald Street advocated this and I see that the Pardeys used a reefing trysail in their recent trip around the Horn. But apart from these two examples I’ve never seen reference to reefing trysails in any of the literature. What are the pros and cons of reefing trysails in your view? Love your books, David

Mr. and Mrs. Dashew,

I am in the process of reading both your Encyclopedia and Storm Survival books (I keep flipping back and forth between them). Not only am I extremely impressed with both of the books but with the two of you and your long and successful marriage. In the end this of course will be your greatest accomplishment.

I am 52 years old and don’t have the greatest of hearts. I have sailed for many years and have decided that it should be possible to equip a boat intelligently for single-handed long distance passagemaking (even if that means sailing primarily in the Trades). My purchase will be in the 32-33 ft. range as that is about the largest size that I can afford to equip to a very high standard. By high standard I mean the very best of the basics done in the best way, not fancy systems that might add more complexity than I could manage. I want a simple but bulletproof proper passagemaker.

My question is in the area of sail selection. I realize that you are a big fan of cutter rigs, and I agree with you, but one of my favorite boats is the Hallberg-Rassy 31 Monson which doesn’t have a foretriangle that is suitable for a second stay. If I am equipping a sloop I would be very interested in your recommendation for sails in order of priority. I would like to have a furling sail on the forestay that can handle most conditions and so that I am only going to the bow in light conditions to bring down the furling jib to put up a light air genoa or to put up a second jib for down wind sailing. In very heavy weather I imagine that it will be a case of following your active tactics until I need a rest at which I would heave to or deploy a Jordan rig off the transom.

I am sorry for the long and involved post but I wanted to give you some background and some of my current ideas if it will help you with your deliberation.

Thank you very much in advance, David

Dear Dashews, Got your book. great reading. But it lacks one thing: a glossary. I suspect some terms are US conventions and not European (e.g. dink). What is meant by draft (in respect of sails) for example. Best Wishes, Malcolm S

Dear Steve, I have just finished your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. What a book!! It is now on my bookshelf next to Calder, Marchji and Brion Toss – sitting with the greats!! Just a quick question though. You make no mention of wind-vane steering. Have you never fitted this or do you rely totally on electronic autopilots? Thanks, Howard, Cape Town, South Africa

Hi Steve, As part of researching for a suitable boat I’ve read the articles about keel and foil design at www.vacantisw.com as well as your description of using a NACA 0000 foil shape with a 15% foil section in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Can you tell me in general terms how much a foil shaped keel improves boat performance compared to one that has no foil, ie. the sides of the keel are parallel? Is this difference enough to warrant keeping away from boats without foil keels? Thx, DM

Steve…Your recommendation to look at CAL 48 and CAL 46-2 was received. You stated though that you prefer aft cockpit. This does make sense. Some aft cockpit designs are better then others. Could you make recommendations for an aft cockpit design that I should be looking at in a used boat that has a long waterline as well as seaworthy? All your help is much appreciated in my quest for a used blue water boat. Corey

Thanks Steve, for the comments on teak decks. I am just about to make an offer on an 85 ft Formosa, and I know the decks will need doing in a few years, so I will adjust my offer. The other misgiving I have is the 9′ 6″ draft. I sailed half way round the world a few years ago, going East. This time I am going through the Panama Canal and then the Pacific–could you comment on the draft , please? John

We have a Snuffer on our Gennaker. What is the proper process for snuffing when the wind is strong? It’s tough to get the snuffer to collapse the sail.

I have a 1984 Hunter 34′ sailboat. Installing a new engine, Yanmar 3ym30 (29 HP). What size prop would you recommend? I’m strictly a coastal cruiser and would like a 3 blade. What are your thoughts? Carl W.

Steve– In your book you seemed to like the max prop. Is this still your true? if not, what is your opinion on the Gori 3 blade prop?

Hi Steve – You were kind to advise me regarding the draft for my new boat last year. Now I am in the process of equipping the boat for a circumnavigation primarily in the tropics. My boat is a 57-foot sloop from X-yachts in Denmark with little windage, the weight is 20 tonnes. I am going to use the Bruce as main anchor and the suggested size for stormy conditions is 30kg, but as I remember from your book you suggest to move up in weight, which in this case will be 50kg. Can you help me to decide between 30 and 50 kg?

I am bringing a 100m stainless chain. Can you recommend an appropriate dimension? Kind regards, Mogens

Dear Steve, I have just read the glazing section for your FPB boat with much interest. Can you tell how the windows where attached to the aluminum structure? Many thanks, John H.

Steve, Hope all is well and everyone is healthy. Richard and Kati have been keeping me apprised to your progress on your latest. Best of luck with it! Do you have a launch date?

As I’m insulating my sailboat, I find that I need a flexible insulation in some areas. The semi-rigid just will not work well!

Richard said that you were using scuba wet suit material. Great idea! This would work well for me several locations against the hulls sharpest curves…behind the nav station, a few lockers, under vanity, etc. So, were can I purchase this material ??

Thank You and Good Luck, say hello to Linda. – Michael

Dears Sirs, I have read your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia with great pleasure and have decided to go on with building a new alu boat, about 45 feet. From a local designer I have got a design plan, including the areas of the hull, deck, cockpit and cabintop (the complete outer skin). The builder I have contacted is calculating the building costs for the aluminium parts by kg. The weight of skin of the hull, deck, cockpit and cabintop should be 1800 kg, excluding the inside frameworks and tanks. Do you have a good guess about how much the complete aluminium-part of the boat will weigh? The builder claims it you be factor 1.5 = 2700 kg. Regards, Jan B. Hansen, Sailmaker

Dear Steve, I enjoy reading your books. I am curious as to the manufacturer or builder and model year of Intermezzo, the 50′ ketch you once owned. She looks very familiar. Was she a production boat or a "one off"? Who was the manufacturer/builder and what year was she built? Thank you, Rick

I have several of your books (my wife accuses me of having them memorized). I spent a number of years cruising on a Bristol 32. This boat had hatches oriented only forward. My current boat is a Freedom 33. I am replacing the 4 hatches. The two on centerline on the cabintop I’m planning to replace with double opening hatches (probably Manship or possibly the Bomar Series 100 cast hatches). There are also 2 hatches towards the port side of the cabin top (which is crowned not flat but was built with flat areas for the hatches but slanting upward towards the centerline). One over the head and one over the galley. Currently they open to port (when open the opening is to port). I’m wondering if it would be better to have them open to starboard. Do you have any advice/opinion on this? I was also considering using the Bomar seabreeze offshore hatches for these 2 since they have the unique venting design. Any comments. Thanks in advance for your input. Regards, Alan

Hallo Linda and Steve: My name is Barbara. My family, it mins my husband and nine years old son, plan to spend a large part of ours lifes on yacht. So our new home is being built and we have some questions how to make living on yacht more comfortable. I bought your book but I did not find few answers:for example, if is it a good idea to make leather seats, what fibres are the best on beds. I will be very greatfull if you help me. Barbara from Poland

We want to leave from San Fransciso (we are based in Sausalito) and sail to Japan, then spend a year visiting the islands of Japan. Aside from Jimmy C’s Cruising Routes, do you know of any articles/people that might be a good source of info?

Most of what I see on the Net is from Japan to the USA.

No, we don’t have a fast vessel; I have read of your philosophy and I agree with it in principle, but we love our boat – a Shannon 43 ketch, with mizzen staysail rigging – but what advice/ resources might you pass along? Many thanks, David and Kathryn S.

We’ll be cruising the Caribbean, Bahamas, maybe Mexico for 6 months or more. I cannot get more than a 3-month supply of meds we take regularly before we leave. What will I need to get meds in those areas? Thank you. Claire

Hello SetSail folks…

First things…I have truly enjoyed your website and cover stories, please continue with your efforts. I am writing from Edmonton, Canada in hopes of receiving some direction or recommendations from those with much more knowledge in the area of sailing than I. I understand my vision may be a long-shot, but am hoping someone will come to my aid.

I have enjoyed the opportunity to be a passenger on a few larger sailing vessels (cruise-like atmosphere) in the Caribbean and am now looking to expand my travels, feed my desires and drive for sailing and partake on a short or long-distance sailing venture on a smaller vessel. Unfortunately, my skills in the same are lacking, as I have no formal or informal training here. I have a reputable and successful career in health care, but am looking to leave and do some traveling, particularly to join a family or crew on an extended sailing journey (s), to offer my assistance if/where possible and perhaps learn about seamanship during the ventures. I am considering travel in the Caribbean, Australia or other tropical destinations.

I again realize this may be a long-shot and was at a loss as to where to initiate such a search. Can you offer any suggestions, contacts or links to families or individuals in search of a trustworthy, hardworking and dedicated traveling companion for their travels (this could also include for child care, extreme novice crew, or even bartending)? For personal information on myself, I would be happy to offer that which would help narrow the search. For the basics, I am 30 yrs of age, female, divorced and financially secure. What else can I offer to assist in my search? Please let me know of any suggestions. Your help is greatly appreciated. Do not hesitate to contact me via e-mail. Thank you, again. Tammy

Hi Steve, I’ve finally finished reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and look forward to Surviving the Storm. Great job on its contents and construction–first class! May I pick your brain on the pros and cons of foreign flag vs. US documentation…I am mainly concerned with trouble in foreign ports (both ways; foreign flag ownership issues with customs, and anti-US sentimental issues with the locals of US registered entities). Thanks, Bill

Reading your website on your new power boat and went through the refrigeration section. I had long ago figured a powerboat could be made quiet and the cost of running was less than sail. Your thoughts on hull design are spot on as far as I can reason and follow my thoughts for a long-legged sea cruising boat. BUT – on to my question – where can I get power requirements for the Danfoss Compressors?

I noticed in your video, BEOWULF: The Epic Continues that she has a fuel flow meter. I have been interested in installing a fuel flow meter on my boat (80 HP Perkins diesel) but have been discouraged because all small capacity fuel flow meters are designed for gas engines and do not have to deal with return line fuel flow. What model / brand of fuel flow meter do you use on BEOWULF and how do you have it plumbed to address the fuel flow in the return line. Thank you very much for your assistance. Downing

How do you “equalize” Gel cell batteries?——RJB

I got the Offshore Cruising Book and I really enjoy it but it didn’t say much about inverters–Any recommendations (for a) 48-foot alum.boat, 800 amp. hrs.? Thank you, Dale

Steve, My question relates to how the sea and land temperatures influence wind patterns. If the sea temperature is warmer than the adjacent land, then what type of flow can I expect? This specifically relates to So. Calif. waters and down towards Ensenada. Thanks, John

Steve, We are planning a bareboat charter in Tonga Vava’u and the first thing we are doing is choosing the time of the year we want to go. That will depend on a chart of weather in the Tonga region, including precipitation, winds and temperature. Do you know where we can get that chart? Thank you, Mary and Pablo V, Florida, USA

Steve…I hope you will forgive me for taking advantage of my ability to contact you so easily to clarify two points mentioned in your book. I realize you are extremely busy and would understand if your response came after you have completed your new book. Firstly, if I understand correctly, troughs (areas of lower contours) shown on the 500 mb charts are actually areas of higher pressure (page 136 of Mariner’s Weather Handbook).

Steve, How much radar does a cruising sailboat need? 2 kw or 4 kw? And any other aspects of knowing about radar that you think might be interesting? Mac–(52′ Schumacher being built in New Zealand).

Steve: I bought a 22-year-old C&C 34 a little over a year ago. Had her surveyed and she was sound. Since then I have refitted her from stem to stern and from top to bottom. New rigging (standing and running), all new ground tackle, full electrical upgrades (wiring, batteries, etc), and the list goes on and on. I have brought aboard safety equipment that I feel is absolutely necessary (e.g. Winslow life raft, GAPER, several GPSs–two are chart plotters–etc, etc.).

With all of this I still have the nagging feeling about my boats survivability under adverse conditions. I feel confident in my skills, but still the feeling exists about my boat. If you are not familiar with the C&C 34, she is 33’6" in length, 11′ at the beam, medium height single spreader rig (again, with all new rod rigging), a 20 hp Yanmar diesel that works every time. But still, I have this feeling about her, even though I’ve had her out in 20-30 knot winds and she’s brought me back every time.

I use her for coastal cruising and plan some small coastal trips to Mexico. If you know, what’s your opinion of C&C’s, and especially my C&C 34? I would be most grateful to hear your response. Martin

Folks, Love your site, I have it bookmarked for future reading and have the Encyclopedia and Surviving the Storm on my Christmas list. My question also has something to do with a Christmas list, as I certainly have a Sundeer on it, but don’t expect Santa to deliver it any time soon, nor a BEOWULF, as the case may be.

So, what examples are there for Early IOR/Late CCA boats that you mention in regard to “Bang for the Buck”? I don’t need specific recommendations, just some models that exemplify your point. I’ll do the research on what I can afford and what’s available, but I do need more than “early IOR/Late CCA”, as all I’m coming up with is an awful lot of editorials, criticisms, opinions, etc…about the rating systems and not about the boats themselves. Also, I haven’t seen any mention, so, have you thought about licensing the manufacture of a smaller design to a top quality builder? Thanks, Kip

Dear Steve, My wife and I are looking for a new passagemaker. We’d love a BEOWULF but unfortunately the budget is a bit tight. We’ve been looking at Island Packets, Catalinas, Beneteaus, Valiants, and Pacific Seacraft. We also looked at the Saga 43 but feel it is a bit too small to be comfortable for very long. We recently came across the website for the Outbound 44 and are wondering if you have any thoughts on this new design. They say they designed the boat for solid passagemaking but with the performance of a PHRF style boat. We’ve been very concerned about getting a boat that is too slow to be safe. Thank you and keep up the good work. Your book is invaluable and has given us the confidence to follow our dream. -Mark and Sarah

We’ve been sailing Lake Erie for the past 15 years (raising kids and money), and will have our turn in 5.5 years. We are leaning towards a 40+’ catamaran for live-aboard in the Caribbean and hopefully South Pacific. I am about 1/3 through your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and now I see your new book is out. Do you address multihull vs. monohull, have an opinion, and or experience? Any recommended reading on the topic? Sincerely, Bill and Lucinda

We have a Stoboom on our Bristol sloop and I would like to keep and maintain it for some time to come. When we bought the boat several years ago, the sage wisdom from the people we spoke with was to ditch the Stoboom and go back to a conventional boom/sail rig.

We have got used to using the Stoboom and really would like to keep it in good shape. Any idea where we might find a source of parts for it? We have been unable to find anything on the Internet or by contacting Hood. Also concerned about eventual deterioration of the sail track over time. Thanks. – Roger

Hi Steve and Linda: You may remember me as a contributor Surviving the Storm (RAMTHA Photos). We have purchased a Gitana 43 IOR-type yacht in order to undertake our planned extended cruise to the Northern Hemisphere starting 2004. The yacht is well proven with 5 Atlantic crossings and South Pacific passages since she was launched in Cape Town in 1981. We are now planning her refit. We intend unstepping the aluminium mast and closely inspecting the rig. This raises several questions as to how much we upgrade the mast systems and we would value your comments.

We intend keeping the slab reefing system but see potential in a low friction track system with Bat Cars. The mast currently has the original track where the slugs are flat and slide inside a track that is riveted on to the mast. The same system used for most trysails. The question is: Is there any major advantage or gain in upgrading to a low-friction track system with batten cars or should we continue with the existing system and be happy with the fact that the last third of the main needs to be hauled down by hand? The reefing is done at the mast. We intend adding lazy jacks and like the look of boom bags instead of a standard sail cover. Regards, Lindsay and Lynley Turvey

A couple of quick questions:

How much has your boat slowed down with furling sails vs. non-furling sails? Do you foresee any major problems with furling vs. hank-on for serious offshore work? How do you plan to douse the sails if the furler jams?

Thanks again for your time. God Bless, Dr. Kirk

Steve I’m getting a new Beneteau Oceanis 473 early next year. I’m having a Dyneema inner forestay fitted with a tensioner for a storm jib. My questions are: 1) How big should it be? The Main is 43 sq m, The Genoa is 60 sq m, (J=5.51m, I= 16.40m, P=14.45m, e=5.21m). Is there a basic rule to follow? 2) I’ve had a suggestion that I should get a reefable working jib that I could use in intermediate (5-6?) conditions providing a better shape than a rolled Genoa, which would reef down to a storm jib size for heavier conditions. Is this a viable/sensible suggestion? Thanks Nigel

Dear Linda & Steve, Thanks for your really interesting Weather Handbook, which we began reading. It will certainly take some time…Together with our local sailmaker we are constructing an extra-roached mainsail, which will be ready in spring (this is not California). However, he did not know where to get UHMW fabric to protect this sail from chafe. Can you give us some help, maybe another name for that or a company which sells this stuff in the old world? Many thanks in advance.

Dear Dashews: I saw your ad for the Beowulf in Latitude 38. I fell in love. Can’t afford it quite yet but am vigorously trying. Been a fond admirer of your work since seeing one of your designs tied up in Emeryville. The couple had been cruising for almost a year. I would like to become an expert sailor. Currently I have only limited experience in the SF bay and Caribbean. Is there a route of training you recommend, or is there a school you might suggest? Of course these would be in addition to your books which I will purchase. Your ideas would be most appreciated. Best regards, Eric.

Steve & Linda: What would be your recommendation on offshore aux. steering? We have a Beneteau 40CC with hydraulic steering. We have an Autohelm ST6000+ autopilot integrated into our chart plotter and GPS with Seatalk. We have solar panels, wind generator, two alternators (a large one dedicated to the house and a small 50 amp. One to the engine), and four 8D gels. Being that we have a center cockpit and hydraulic steering, a windvane does not seem to be the answer. To engage the windvane we would need to go below and put the hydraulics in the bypass mode and run the vane off of the emergency tiller. This does not seem safe.

Another thought would be to put an aux. rudder type vane and just center lock the wheel. Being that we have fixed davits and a scoop/swim platform stern, that is not attractive either. My thinking is a back-up ST6000+ unit. Am I being dumb? My second remark is more of a comment on your Seamanship book.

First off let me say the book, as all the others, are fantastic. My wife and I were a little shocked by the photo of your very young children high up in the spreaders at their ages with no tethers. As a farm boy I was climbing everything as a young child. As a result of a fall, I suffered a broken leg before I was two. This was done on solid ground, not a pitching boat. I know children are monkeys but I question its place in your Seamanship book. Thanks again and we are looking forward to any new works you produce. You guys are our role models.

Dear Linda and Steve, We first heard about you two in the Mahina Cruising seminar given in San Francisco this past March by John and Amanda Neal. It was a great seminar and your books were prominently displayed and talked about during their seminar.

We are just about ready to take off for five or so years on a cruising journey which we hope will include the Med, Caribbean and South Pacific. More if time allows. I (Glenn) have been boating/sailing since the age of 12 and am now the ripe old age of 52. I grew up sailing on Puget Sound, the San Juans and Canadian waters and sail/race J-105’s in the San Francisco fleet. The two of us have chartered all kinds of sail and power boats in California, the Caribbean, and Mexico.

Because we understand that you sail on a 78-footer Beowulf, we thought you could help us with a dilemma we are currently experiencing. We are looking to purchase a boat in the very near future. Two boats are under serious consideration. One is a new Hylas 54. The other is a used Farr 63 built in 1999. Both are cutter-rigged, center cockpit pilothouse models. Both are loaded with the latest in nav and electronic gear. Both have in-mast furling mains and a bow thruster. My wife likes the smaller Hylas, thinking that it will be easier to sail shorthanded (just the two of us most of the time). I like the larger Farr which is a bit roomier, has a bit better sailing performance overall and will be more sea kindly with the longer waterline length. The biggest ISSUE is draft. My wife thinks the 9-foot draft on the Farr will keep us away from many tropical locations where we may want to anchor/moor the boat. I say the difference between the Farr’s -foot draft and the Hylas’ 7’2’" draft is negligible and that it would affect less than 5% of the places we’d like to go. For instance, we chartered a Hylas 54 in the BVI and barely were able to join other boats anchored on the south side of Annegada Island where the depth water was 8 feet. We assume the draft on Beowulf is at least 9 feet. Do you feel limited in where you can cruise??

Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated if you have the time to respond. We look forward to using your reference materials. Kind Regards, Glenn and Linda

Hi Linda & Steve, My wife and I have just purchased your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and are enjoying the read very much. Keep up the good work.

A quick question, based on information in the above mentioned book and on your website, I was under the impression the “Deerfoot” name designation was yours. However, I have just come across a Deerfoot 50 (s/v Privatus) that is said to be designed by Ulf Rogeberg and built by Hinkley, Lange & Son. Any explanation or information you or your staff can provide about other “Deerfoots” would be appreciated. Regards, Roy

I am trying to find out how to estimate the center of effort (CE) of a high roach main. With a triangular sail the roach is usually neglected when measuring the CE, but I am not sure this is the way to go with a high roach main, where the luff may take up 30% of sail area. Thank you very much for your help, Michiel