Hi Dashews–After many months of research and viewing, we have found our first boat! We are buying a 1964 Cal 40 in mostly lovely condition for about 50K. I would like your opinion on a couple of concerns I had about the boat.

1. We had an engine survey done and the V-drive needs replacing–what other mechanical systems would V-drive failure affect? Stuffing box? Prop? etc?

2. I have been trying to find out specifics on the hull construction (I was told it was made of 5 hand-laid layers of fiberglass & would be thrilled to find out if that’s true!) but am not having much luck. Are there any non-destructive tests that can be done on hulls to check the condition & thickness of the fiberglass?

3. I have done enough research to know that the tabbing on the Cal 40s is weak and that there are some concerns with the deck-hull joint. Will a surveyor specifically check the bulkheads and the d-h joint for signs of weakness as a matter of course or do I need to instruct him as to what exactly I want inspected?

4. There is some minor decay on the bridge beam–what’s the best way to stop it? Any info at all would be appreciated–we set sail for the first time ever in June!! Thanks, Erin

Hello Steve: If I may quickly pick your experience. I’ve located a William Garden Ketch, Dolphin design 32LwL, 42LoA. Aesthetically, I am in love with that clipper overhang/bowsprit. Only seen a truncated picture so far. Have to travel to check it out, and my source is uncertain whether it is cutter-rigged or not but assume so with a bowsprit. Can’t tell from poor quality photo. It’s wooden hulled, mahog on oak. 11’6 beam 6’6 draft 22,000 displ with 8,000 Ballast Keel assumed to be full length. I have experience sailing dinghies, but that’s it. Intend to use it as a seasonal liveaboard, and to develop/polish skills singlehanding on a big boat. It is purported to be a bluewater boat. Sail package is minimal but includes a storm trysail. What would be your comments on this one, yea or nay for my intentions, assuming the survey is acceptable? I love the way it looks but have to look to an expert such as yourself as to how she may sail, if your familiar or could make an educated guess. You are doing a great service to the sailing community. Thanks, Raphael.

Hi Steve, I’m ordering a #4 for my J120 which I intend to sail from the Caribbean back to the States this spring. The boat is set up for roller furling on the headstay.

My question: Does it make any sense to put reinforcement in the #4 so it can be rolled up to storm jib size? I do have a storm jib, but think it would be easier to set the trysail and the #4 when the wind gets over 25 knots, and progressively roll up the #4 as the wind builds. Easier — but impractical?

I’d be most interested in your comments. Love your books (I’ve got ’em all). Cheers, David

Hi, our insurance requires us to replace all running rigging after 5 years (which is at the end of this year) whether it needs it or not. Probably not a bad idea. along the same lines, someone suggested all thru hulls be replaced after 5 years. Do you agree with the latter? Regards, Peter

Hi Steve and Linda, Thanks for all of the excellent books and tapes on you adventures. They have been a great help. I have noticed the winglets on airplane wings over the last few years. Has any one tried making a “plate” at the top of the mast, maybe using carbon fiber as a frame covered with sail cloth, to form a device which would reduce the vortexes created by a headsail & main combination? If if would work with a plate on each side of the mast, to tending would be needed during tacking or gybing. Asked my sailmaker about it but he deals with racers more than cruisers, so he is not too interested in the idea. Since you seem to be interested in making cruisers go faster with less effort, thought this idea might be for you. Thanks for thinking about it. Crawford

Hi, I am about to order a flat – code 0 – asymetric set on a prodder for a Grainger 8m Trimara. What sheet angle should I go for? The few web pics I have seen for this have the sheet projecting to above half way of the luff, not half way – which would be correct for a genoa? I will have the block for the clew on an athwardship traveller, but there is no fore and aft adjustment. The sail angles are likely to be 80 – 40 aparent. Many thanks for your input, Simon

Dear Linda and Steve: Two years ago I bought a steel kit form Bruce Roberts to build a voyager 495 (L.O.A. 49 ‘- 4") With a longish keel.

About one year ago I bought, directly from you, your book and CD “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia” which, by the way, is the book I’ve have learnt more from. Pity I didn’t have it before.

You totally convinced me with what you say about mains with big roach. Apart from the technical explanations, your comments about them are: "There is absolutely nothing you can do to an older cruising boat that will increase performance as much as one of these sails, regardless of how much you are prepared to spend."

You have (or at least had) 82% of the rectangle of the luff and foot filled with sail in your actual boat BEOWULF and add “We now realize that we can go farther, adding more horsepower for little cost.”

Exactly two days ago I contacted Bruce Roberts (he is the one who really knows my boat) to ask him to produce me a new sail plan with a main of the same characteristic as the one you had on BEOWULF.

I’ve just been in your web site, as I wanted to buy some more books from you, and you can imagine my surprise when I’ve seen that you have just got a new main and mizzen of considerably different design than the original sails.

I’m really worried now: Have you found anything wrong with them? Could you tell me anything about the new design of your sails? I suppose you are very busy but I would be terribly grateful if you could answer me as soon as possible (the cheque to Mr Roberts has already been sent and now I don’t know whether I have to cancel the order).

All the best, Jose

I have enjoyed your site very much for a long time. Into the Light (by Dave & Jaja Martin) has been "the book" for me. Both have been a major help in turning me from dreamer to setting the goals and schedules to make it come true. An amazing content of worthwhile reading from all authors.

My wife and I are contemplating a charter from Puerto Vallarta to Cabo San Lucas April 15-21 and the Captain has been straightforward in saying it will be an upwind and uncomfortable passage. He adds that it is only 300 miles. He has now departed Natal and will be out of touch for a time. We are left wondering about how long the actual passage might be. We are willing to endure a bash for a few days but wish to be up for enjoying Cabo to the fullest also. As we don’t personally know anyone to ask I thought maybe SetSail could help. Any advice or even general opinions will be greatly appreciated. Till my next order, Thanks, Everett

What would be the best wind vane for a 22 foot O’Day sailboat? What do you think of a basic servo-pendulum steering gear? – Melanie E

I enjoyed your book Surviving the Storm very much – essential reading – but wonder about how much is possible at night when visibility is poor. Perhaps the sea anchor is needed here, especially if shorthanded. A chapter on methods for retrieving a man overboard would be useful.

Yours Sincerely, Bruce C.

Steve, Thank you for responding so fast to my e-mail. I have many questions which seem to be answered several different ways by as many people. It is always a pleasure to have some one like yourself to give input. I still am interested in a boat, I thought a motorsailer since I will be in Alaska most the time. But several people have been talking against them if one was ever to truly sail in the open ocean, small on deck structures etc is preferred as to a pilot house. Although I have found the open ocean, hundred miles off shore to be calmer in the long run than the inshore tides etc… (I have skipped tugs across the gulf of Alaska several times). I anxiously await your response. Cheers, Spike

I am considering our next major cruise from NZ/Oz up through the Red Sea, and our charging/motoring/fuel strategy. I have calculated that we get about 1 mile/liter at our normal cruising speed, possibly a bit more. This gives us about 1200 miles with current fuel capacity. Across the Pacific we pretty much motored all the way to Galapagos–no wind. Sailed all the way to Marquee’s, but then motored all the way to Tahiti, and got low on fuel and had to reload from a ship in the Tuamotus, which was very messy and expensive. So I am investigating how to get some more capacity. Ideas:

Glass a tank in on the port side of the lazarette. The area is hard to get at anyway so won’t be too much of a loss.

Glass a tank in on the stbd side behind the current tank in that ‘dead’ area below the compass/steering box.

I reckon, without actually measuring the boat as we are currently skiing in South Island (life’s tough, eh), I guess I could add about another 300+ miles. Which would have life a lot easier in the Tuomotus, for example.

I KNOW ITS MORE WEIGHT!!!! but do you have any other ideas?

I am also considering swapping my homebuilt DC generator for the Balmar, with watermaker add-on. Is this what you have? How does it work out? The literature says it will set its own speed/charge rate, how does that work out?

Also our batteries are getting real bad and I’ll probably change them, did you go for the lead acid Tudors as we have, or the more sophisticated dry cell ‘I can’t remember what they are but not gel type or lead/acid’ new types.

Any advice gratefully received–and probably written about, we start a ‘Masterclass’ series for YW in October!

Hope cruising is going well–Regards, Brian

Hello Dan, great service and answers, thanks.

We have a FP Belize 43 catamaran, and the fully battened main is attached to a track that is fitted into a track on the mast. We have recently been transatlantic and on arrival in the Caribbean found the cars badly worn, two of the end caps the battens fit into (mast end) broken in half, and the bearings of the cars mostly missing. On inspection the track running up the mast was worn heavily where the cars park when the main is fully raised.

We have had new cars sent out but do not want this to happen again. Does the track need replacement? How is this done (excuse our ignorance)? How do we prevent this problem? The boat is 3 years old. Best regards, John Jones

I am in the last stages of purchasing a new Catalina 400mkII. The only remaining issue is furling main or standard. The boat will either be in Charleston SC or Oriental NC. 99% of my sailing will be coastal cruising, shorthanded or fairly inexperienced crew. I’ve chartered for 25 years but this is my 1st owned boat and I’ve never used a furling main. Your advice please

I replaced my fixed prop ( 3-blade 16 RH 10) with a 17 RH 10 Flex-O-Fold 2-blade folding prop. I have experienced much improved speed under sail and not bad performance in reverse. However, I am unable to get full cruising RPM in forward and because of this am not able to motor cruise at much more than 4.3 knots. My vessel is a Nautilus 37 with a 35 hp Yanmar diesel. Also I am experiencing vibration at 1900 RPM which I did not have with my fixed prop. Any suggestions? Ron

I am going to school on your experience. I am wanting to upgrade my windlass from an older AnchorMan that is better suited to line than the System 7 3/8th chain and 65-pound spade we have acquired.

I was intrigued by Maxwell’s offerings but their specs shown on the web seemed to indicate they support 3/8th SHORT chain? Have I missed something? The G-7 seems to have a diameter = .394", inside length = 1.23", inside width = .62".

Do you get a different chainwheel/gypsy? I saw a discounted Maxwell VW series 1200, but with a shorter chainweel/gypsy at my local chandlery that I would like to buy if it’s possible to get a chainwheel put in for the system 7 3/8th chain.

Does it make a difference where on the rode you attach a nylon snubber when anchoring? I would think that closest to the boat would be best – putting the snubber between most of the chain shock and the boat, but that would make it impossible to shorten your scope after setting the anchor. Suggestions? Mark L.

Dear Setsail, I’m in the process of speccing out the glazing for the pilothouse on the boat I am building. I have narrowed it down to either 1/2" tempered glass or 1/2" abrasion resistant polycarbonate and am now looking for a little real world experience to tip the scale. One nagging doubt: the long-term durability of this product in the voyaging environment. I’ve read in your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia that you recommended and used polycarbonate on your sailing vessels, but noticed that you made the switch to glass in the FPB series. After walking the docks at the boat shows and talking to designers and builders of some of the high-end custom pilothouse and raised saloon boats, it seems they all are going with toughened glass, but none seem to have any direct experience with abrasion resistant polycarbonate. What’s your experience? Best regards, Collin

Hello Steve, I have been offered a really nice bare hull, but the mould for the deck is a center cockpit. I would like to build the boat as an aft cockpit. I could either build a deck in plywood and glass it on top afterward, but I wondered if I could build a deck in aluminum. This seems to me to be quite a good mix. Fiberglass below and aluminum above. This would suit me because I could leave it bare for non slip on the side decks and also I could build the hard dodger in aluminum. Do you think that the differential expansion between fiberglass on aluminum could cause a problem? I also wonder whether it might cause problems later with resale because it is so unconventional. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks, Howard

Dear Steve and Linda: I am following you book as a guide (maybe I should say Bible, as I suspect many others are also). I plan to use a lightweight tread plate on the walkways on the top of the hulls and a few other places. The builder is concerned that, when the tread gets wet, it will be quite slippery. He thinks that you must be putting something in the way of nonskid on the tread plate. I suspect he is wrong but thought I should check. He is recommending that I use normal aluminum decking and apply a cork-based product made in Great Britain [I believe]. I prefer to stay with the tread plate, but only if this going to give me good footing when wet. I would appreciate knowing your experiences with the tread plate decking, as far as being slippery when wet. Incidentally, you recommended that I go with 80 grit versus the 120 I had considered. Boy, were you right! It looks much better. I am going to use the Barnacle System, I think, and thought of finishing the bottom in 120 grit and running without bottom paint to see what happens with just the Barnaclean system. [Your thoughts?] -Bill

Hello, Have you a review of computers/laptops/notebooks best compatible with seafaring vessels? Thank you, Bernard

We are shortly to buy an SSB radio. We propose to spend up to USD2,500 and will run a weather fax program on a Toshiba laptop thru it. The model we like so far is an Icom IC-M710. Have any of your readers had any experience with one of these, and if so how do they like it? Mike

I was wondering if you could help me with information concerning Origo alcohol stoves. I use my boat for limited coastal cruising in the Channel Islands, CA. My boat is a Dreadnought 32 without a LPG system. Stove prices are comparable but for LPG I would spend $1,000 more for lockers,solenoids etc. I can’t find any performance or convenience info on these non-pressurized alcohol systems. Can you advise me? – Nathan

Hi Linda and Steve: I am enjoying your articles about maintaining Beowulf, and was interested in the piece on your washing machine.

My wife is happy enough to wash by hand, but would like a spin dryer or similar.

Can you offer any advice? – Thanks, Chris

Regarding turnbuckles, Mike wants a stainless body (open or closed) over a bronze threaded bolt. Alan Blunt says that Navtec is the only company that offers this but it is unnecessarily expensive (Alan seems to be recommending chrome plated bronze body turnbuckles). Which turnbuckles do you recommend for both my standing and running rigging?

I am spellbound by the thought of going cruising one day, when and if shore life doesn’t satisfy me anymore, and when and if I can nail down someone who can tell me just how much cruising, including insurance, really costs. And, so I have been browsing the Internet in search of the answers to the questions: why, when, how much, what boat, how safe . . . .

The latest question I ponder is what work might be available along the way, and I hear diesel and refrigeration mechanics can work anytime, anywhere. However, being an engineer who knows about engines and other machines, but who has not practiced machine repair, I wonder what can a peripatetic mechanic do in the bowels of a boat, other than normal, routine preventative maintenance I suspect many sailors perform for money-saving reasons. Just what tasks related to machines and systems are sailors willing to pay for?! Regards, Craig.

Hello, First of all, thanks for publishing your knowledge.. It is appreciated. I’d like to know what your latest opinion is in regards to new yacht registration outside of the US. My wife and I are going to cruise the Caribbean before setting up shop in the BVI to charter on a multi-hull. Other then sales tax/use tax issues within a specific US state, do you know of any other advantages, considerations or pitfalls? Thank you for your time, Jay

What would you used to clean a greasy electric motor body with so that it is clean enough to paint? CRC, acetone, ammonia, 3M adhesive cleaner??? – Phil

Hi Steve, Thinking about upgrading a boat from a 12 volt system to a 12/24 volt system to handle electric windlass, electric winches, water maker, etc while still using 12 volts for electronics and lights. In your opinion, what is the best route to go? Thank you Crawford

Where can I find more information about “pillow block bearings” that you mention in your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia under the section on Mega Alternators (page 870).

We have a Northern Lights 8kw genset aboard and I would like to mount a high output alternator on the unit. Presently we seldom place much of a AC load on the unit and by placing a big alternator on it we could “kill two birds with one stone”; charging our battery banks as well as providing AC needs and placing a reasonable load on the engine.

The folks at Northern Lights were not overly excited about this idea (side load on the front seal and bearings). Space constraints do not allow for an opposing “slave pulley” to offset the side load of the proposed alternator.

I noticed in your book a reference to a “pillow block bearing” which alleviates the side load problem. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Fantastic reference book. Thank You, John and Deanna

I have agonized over this problem for months now. Boy, if you could give me some insight on how to resolve this dilemma I would be most appreciative. In your first Encyclopedia you made reference to the use of a high-output DC genset coupled to an inverter for the AC. Our AC load is small and quite manageable. The largest load is hot water and the reverse cycle AC (both about 10 running amps). Intermediate use items are hand tools, microwave, nicad charger, 13 in. TV. So, my selection logic to date goes something along the lines of: Weight: 3.5 kW AC genset is ~280 lbs.; Fischer/Panda DC unit or Balmar Unit 200. This thing is going in a Hans Christian Christina 40. So, space and weight are of a concern. Fuel Consumption: The DC units seem to have a logic control to throttle back the engine depending on the load. I’m not certain if the AC units are loaded up regardless of the AC load on the generator. So, if you are not running at capacity, is your fuel consumption less than full-load?. I’m guessing that the 3.5 kW AC units consume about .3 GPH. Inverter: Regardless of the genset choice, you’ll want one. Unless you want to fire up the genset to heat a sandwich or catch the 6 o’clock news. I’m looking at the Trace 25. It should handle the inductive load of the AC just fine. I am running a house bank of four, 4D AGM batteries. With their low internal resistance they will accept a high rate of replacement charge off a DC unit. So, from your experience in setting up systems, is the 12V genset a good solid technology? Does it do a good job in keeping the house banks up to 13V while running a long term AC load? Any trade-off from one to another that should sway me? Given the above usage criteria, what do you think? Do you cover this subject in more detail in the Encyclopedia second edition? All the best and thanks in advance for your time, Kevin McGreevy

Where can I find more technical info on passages in El Niño years? I’ve been unable to find anything, even in your books and website. There’s talk of reinforced trades, reversed trades, and as you say reduced trades. Is there any solid data or experience on the subject? Many thanks again…Jan

Here (in new Zealand) it is difficult (read impossible) to get 500Hpa charts on weatherfax….what options can you recommend ? Thanks for your input. Best regards, Alan

Where can I find weather faxes for the Caribbean on the Internet?

Dear Dashews: A quite wonderful website. The most interesting and informative I have ever come across in any field of interest. I shall certainly be buying some or all of your books. In the meantime, a word of advice, if you have time: I noted your comments about one of the Beneteau designs. First question: do you have a view as to the suitability of the Oceanis 473 for deepwater cruising? It seems to me to be quite a lot of boat for the money in this part of the world (UK) – compared for instance with the clearly excellent but extremely pricey Hallberg-Rassey equivalent. Second question: conceivably you might think single-handed offshore cruising to be inadvisable, but would the 473 lend itself to that, if suitably set up? Third question: do you rate the boom furling equipment now available? – I am thinking in particular of a New Zealand design the name of which I have forgotten but have seen in action. It seems pretty handy and of course permits a a fully-battened main with a decent roach. With kind regards and deep admiration, Neil

I got a Hylas 44 surveyed as part of my purchase of that boat. I want the boat (1989) to take it to the South Pacific with my wife. Do you know that design? Do you think is a good boat for that trip? Thanks!

Hi Steve: I have been admiring your crafts for some time now, and probably like everyone else, I am a big fan of your brilliant designs…speaking of brilliant designs have you stopped production on the Sundeer 64 and if not what are the price tags on one of those? I found a charter service online that uses one of these great cruisers and hope to charter it soon if I can get the chance. I would love to get a feel for it! thanks Michael L

Hi, I’ve just purchased a 1975 Westerly Centaur (and yes, I don’t plan on getting anywhere quickly). The boat has its original rigging including a roller-reefing boom. I would like to employ some sort of basic slab reefing type approach, but there are no reef hooks and there doesn’t appear to be an blocks on the stern end of the boom for running lines to the clew of each reef. Can I just mount all of this on the present boom and run appropriate lines? If I can mount such hardware, would I rivet it onto the boom? Or do I need to think about a new boom (I really don’t want to buy a new boom). Thanks! – Arthur

Hi Steve, In the FAQ section under Rigs and Rigging you mention you use 3 to 3 1/4″ sliders in your mainsail system. Do you have these sliders in this length specially manufactured for you, and if so, who does it and what material is used? Or are they ‘off the shelf’? And lastly, do they have any metal inserts within the plastic for reinforcement? (I’ve searched extensively but apparently not well enough!) Thanks Rich

Dear Steve: I read your comment regarding your new single-line reefing system and your intention to write about it ( 6Sept 2000 article). Have you done that somewhere? I’m in New Zealand rethinking my reefing system and sail controls in general and I’d be interested in your thoughts. One of the riggers here is telling me that he has good luck on big boats with single-line reefing, so I’m tempted to try it. My boat is only 52 feet, so he thinks it would be no problem. Randy

Please excuse my ignorance; but in your article about full batten mainsail, what the heck is UHMW?

Dear Linda & Steve, Thanks for your really interesting Weather Handbook, which we began reading. It will certainly take some time…Together with our local sailmaker we are constructing an extra-roached mainsail, which will be ready in spring (this is not California). However, he did not know where to get UHMW fabric to protect this sail from chafe. Can you give us some help, maybe another name for that or a company which sells this stuff in the old world? Many thanks in advance.

I am supporting a friend on his sailing trip though the Pacific Ocean. He is trying to find a way from Tuamotu Islands to Hawaii. Actually he planned to go via Marquesas Islands, however, easterly winds (in gusts up to 45 knots) still make it impossible to sail this route. I fea, the only way to reach Hawaii is to go the long way right north.

I have been told that you have some experience in travelling to Hawaii "the wrong way" – against trade winds. Is there a possibility to get some usefull information from you? Maybe he could call you directly via his satellite phone?

Thanks in advance for your reply. Manfed Ziegler

I am building an Aluminum Sailboat with a spade rudder and rudder stock. I am planning to use UHMWPE plain bearings. Would it be a good idea to hard anodise the shaft in the area of the bearings to reduce the wear? Would there be any corrosion issues? Thanks, Howard

Dear Steve & Linda: I have a NONSUCH 30, and would like to know if you have any comments about modifying your storm tactics for a catboat rig. The large forward mast makes it nearly impossible to stay into a heavy wind…and heaving-to is not an option. At anchor, as would be with a sea-anchor, the boat wanders at right-angles to a heavy wind. While I thankfully haven’t had to try it in heavy seas, I have found that anchoring off a stern corner keeps the boat headed downwind pretty steadily…of course it causes extra windage, and makes the cockpit area a wet and windy place. I am eagerly looking forward to studying your book…overcoming anxiety is worth a lot in being able to think through a stressful situation…and your spouse having greater confidence in you and the boat is PRICELESS!

Hi Steve. With a 36 foot waterline, wouldn’t the boat (at least theoretically) have a hull design speed of about 8 knots? [sqrt 36 = 6 x 1.34 = 8.02] Do you find that such boats won’t sail at the design speed? Sidney

Hello Dashews, We love the books and are busy trying to absorb all the info as we plan toward and dream of our own cast off day in 36 months. We have been educating ourselves on design as we continue to search for the right boat for our needs. I agree with your philosophy on waterline and the value of older CCA boats. I also like aluminum or steel (though right now steel seems like a better buy in general).

Here’s the issue–I am 6’5″ tall, my wife is 6’0″ and our two sons 4 and 2 1/2 are destined to be at least that big. That’s a lot of height on a boat. Can you give us some direction on makes of the older boats that would be more inclined to accommodate our height? I know that it is an issue of free board as much as anything but has interior volume and subsequently headroom increased with the newer boats or can we find a pool of appropriate boats built of steel or alum. In the 60s–80s that will save us aching heads? Thanks, Dave

I have a Hughes Northstar 80/20 ketch with a roller furled mainsail. This is obviously an aftermarket modification, and it is extremely difficult to unfurl and furl. The outhaul and furling lines by necessity are each routed around several blocks (around the boom, down the mast, across the deck, through a block, then to the cockpit) which greatly increases the mechanical
effort required to move the sail. At times we have had to use our large winch and are putting a lot of (hopefully) unnecessary strain on the lines, deck organizers and blocks. Our best efforts have resulted in still about a foot of slack in the outhaul line at the clew. This is my first experience with such a mainsail arrangement and I have no idea what is considered "normal" operation or configuration. In addition, the car to which the outhaul line is attached moved freely on the boom track until I hit on the idea to lock it in place using a second, locking slide. By keeping the car stationary, sail management improved a bit but it still seems to be much harder than it should be and requires two people pretty much dedicated to the mainsail during furling and unfurling. My original plan of sailing the boat shorthanded or singlehanded is now in question until I can resolve this problem.