Steve, Do you know of a good display of Gulfstream temperature and current conditions available online (i.e. that shows eddies and current patterns)? Thanks.

We are due to leave Mexico at the beginning of April and spend the season sailing the Pacific Islands. From our reading and research we are unsure which weather and fax stations provide the best information for which areas. Is there is a source for this information or can you make recommendations? In addition we have heard that New Zealand and Fiji are newly co- operating on producing forecasts for cruisers and would like to know if this is correct, where the results are broadcast from, the schedules and the channels used for faxes and forecasts. Many thanks Dudley and Philippa

Steve: Are there two versions of the Sundeer 60, a shorter 56 and a longer 60? With a 60ft is this perhaps why the owner of TOUCAN moved the rudder further aft? Would it make sense to do it, i.e. would it improve control, say, downwind; are there any drawbacks? Have other 60’s done the same? I’d be interested in your thoughts; haven’t been able to speak with the owner. In advance, thanks…Peter

Hi–I’m planning to buy a boat for cruising round the world in the next year and have just ordered your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. I’m interested in prices for your range of yachts–probably looking at 60–65 ft but BEOWULF does look interesting. I would be grateful if you can send me at least budgetary figures for the base boat with basic fit-out (no instruments) and working sails. Many thanks Mark

Steve: I am a novice sailor hoping to buy my first boat this spring. I will be lake sailing for now; however, I am contemplating a relocation to the Gulf Coast of Florida. I have been considering a new Hunter 260, primarily for weekending, and because the size seems manageable. My questions are, what size do you think is appropriate to learn basic sailing skills; and whether you think that I would be better off with an older and longer boat to start out with. I read in some of the FAQs that you recommend mid to late ’60’s and early ’70’s CCA and IOR designs. What boats specifically do you recommend? I am sure that I could get much more waterline in an older boat, than I will for what the H260 costs brand new. Any ideas? Thank you. David

I am restoring a 1980 Cheoy Lee 44 Ketch. She currently has wood spars. I have been considering having a taller main aluminum mast made with a longer boom and removing the mizzen all together, running her as a sloop. Is this possible? P.S. Love your books!! Best Regards, Larry

A rigging question: What make (I assume ProFurl) and model furler would you recommend for our big reacher? The little Hood unit that was on the boat has a nice small headfoil for minimal windage but marginal drum capacity even at 5/16″ line for this big sail? These Spectra sheets and halyards are great! Have you had any problems with knots (bowlines) failing? Ref. June Sail magazine article. Thanks, Kurt

My husband and I are in the process of buying our first boat ever. We plan to live aboard while we learn to sail. I found a 1972 Challenger 40 for $29,000. It has a 13’10” beam and is really well laid out–we’d be quite comfortable living in it. However, it needs all of the rigging replaced. We just read an article in Cruising World about the costs of refitting a boat which gave a rigging replacement estimate of $10,000. In your opinion, do you think this would be worth it? We don’t mind investing elbow grease and gear costs, but we also don’t want to “go down with the ship” on this! Thank you! Erin

Steve, Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge and experience in your book series. Accompanied by your videos, they are assisting us in mastering the significant learning curve. Last year, after careful consideration of your discussion of maxi roach full batten mainsails, we made the jump and invested in a new main and car system for our Endeavor 38. Wow! A substantial increase in performance, plus a new sense of confidence in a wide variety of sailing conditions. The new main provides enough drive that we routinely use a much smaller headsail and we have reduced weather helm. However, our battens continue to be a source of frustration. When reefing, furling, or raising the mainsail, the battens bend and flop out of the lazy jacks, dragging the rear third of the sail material with them.

In addition, starting in moderate air, the battens seem to be overly flexible and don’t seem to respond enough when flattening the sail. Additionally, the battens donÕt appear to be stiff enough to control the sailcloth as the main lays on the boom. Our initial diagnosis is that the battens are not stiff enough given the sail size, aggressive roach, and cloth weight (7.5 oz). The fundamental question is how do you tell when you have arrived at the right batten stiffness? I suspect our sailmakerÕs choice of batten material (pultruded 1 5/8Ó glass) was based on the availability of standard materials. If the analysis is correct, what is a source for stiffer battens? Dave

Hi Steve- I read a question in the Q&A section of cruising central. It was the one where you said that getting into sailing dinghies for a summer would be comparable to sailing a larger boat for a few years. I already know how to sail and I sailed a dinghy as a youngster. Now I’d like to get into cruising 30-40 footers long distances. Would dinghy racing also benefit me as far as learning and experience in sailing? There are many dinghy fleets here in San Diego that I could readily join. I’m a 50-year-old guy and I’d like to become a capable cruiser before I’m too old. Thank you very very much for your valued guidance. Kevin

Please tell me the maximum feet of trimaran a single sailor can handle. Thanks.

Dear Steve and Linda, My wife and I finally made the big jump and are sailing around the world. We’re now in Lisbon, Portugal. A friend of ours lent us your book, Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. It’s wonderful, and we look forward to borrowing it again. We read with great interest your comments about the Alpha 3000 as this is our primary autopilot. (We have no wind vane) So far we’ve had only minor problems which were turned into major problems when the unit was returned to the company for repairs. Mostly due to Barron and now Chris, who refuses to even give out his last name. The company’s mode of operation is beyond my comprehension. We’re wondering if you could give us any input as to what we can do to keep our autopilot working in the best possible fashion without returning it to the factory. Thanking you in advance. Our wishes to you and your family for a Happy Holiday season and your best New Years ever. Harold

Hi Steve, I read that you felt at one time your Sundeer 56/60 was one of your best designs. After your experience with Beowulf, are there any significant changes that you would make to that boat? A better question is if you were going to design a similar sized boat today, what would it be like? Thank you, Downing Mears

I love your design concepts of fast cruising sailboats designed to be handled by a couple. I have a few questions that, if you have the time, I would love to get answered.

I have read your design paper for BEOWULF and it looks like a terrific boat. How is the water ballast working out and do you ever worry about having all that ballast on the wrong side in the event of an accidental jibe? What do you think of the use of carbon fiber, particularly in masts? And have you considered the use of a free-standing mast? What do you think of the Fox 50 concept of converting an Around Alone Open 50 design to an ultra-fast cruising boat? I think they were to be built by TPI and Lyman Morse, although after the initial hoo-ha I have not heard anything about them. They seem to take your concepts a step farther, but perhaps too far.

Thanks, Pete

I’m about to order a gennaker for my Sabre 402 and have been trying to decide between your snuffer and ATN’s. For dousing, ATN recommends blowing the tack before pulling the snuffer down. If I am reading your response to Doug Peters’s question about this, you seem to be recommending easing the sheet. Having had some difficulty doing this with the non-ATN, non-North snuffer on my last boat, ATN’s idea seems sensible to me. Is there a reason I couldn’t take this approach with your snuffer?

Dear Steve, I have a Kelly Peterson 46 with a fixed 3-blade prop. I want to change it to a feathering prop. I am intrigued by the continuously adjusting Autoprop which is supposed to match pitch to engine rpm and twist more or less flat to cut drag under sail to 85% of a fixed blade prop. I wonder what happens to the independently adjusting blades when barnacles form and they become unbalanced. Maxprop has less drag under sail but its pitch is optimized for max rpm and falls off (like fixed props) at lower engine rpm. Do you know how well these things work in the field? Any kudos or horror stories. Thanks, Carl

Hello, Thanks for your excellent books and CDs. We have purchased your Encyclopedia and CD but have not gotten off cruising to the Carribe yet. Soon though.

In following your recommendations on anchoring, (we purchased a 65 lb Spade Anchor and will back it up with 200 feet of ACCO 3/8s Chain with oversized links on each – and following your admonition it must be the right size as our dockmates have laughed at the size we bought), but we had a question as to what shackle you are using with your system. We want to insure that our shackle will not be the weakest part of our system. Can you advise the maker and size of shackles in use on your boat? Ed & Sue

Hydraulic motors. You mention the problems with running your anchor windlass, the need for large wire size to minimize voltage drop on the long run to the bow. Why not power the windlass with a hydraulic motor? You already have a pump onboard for the auto pilot, even adding an additional pump would provide some redundancy for the autopilot system. Now all you need is a tiny motor and a couple skinny (1/4 in od) lines running up to the bow. These motors are robust, simple, easily speed and overload controlled, corrosion resistant (I own a chemical plant, believe me I know about corrosion!), very lightweight… I first saw these used at a plant in Norway. All the agitators drive motors (probably 10 total) were run by a single hydraulic drive pump. Speaking of multiple motors, how about that big power winch you use on Beowulf? Slap a hydraulic motor on that thing too and get rid of the need for a 24 volt electric system all together!

Hello from New Zealand, We are a 40ft aluminium sailboat called Wyndeavor. We’ve sailed from the Pacific Northwest to New Zealand with our two kids and have recently put our boat on the market. The paint on our boat was chipping terribly so we decided to go with bare aluminium in order to help the boat sell (low maintenance). We recently had the boat sandblasted and are not too happy with the outcome. We have covered most of the deck with a nonskid product (Treadgrip) but the rest of the deck and hull to the waterline are bare. The bare aluminium is very rough and our feet and fingers leave marks. We understand that you have a lot of experience dealing with aluminium so we were wondering if you had any advice regarding these issues. Should we sand the decks? Will it get better as the boat oxidizes? Should we just leave it be? Can you help? Regards, Kelly

Hi, I am planning a circumnavigation and am in the process of buying the appropriate boat as large as possible for two to handle. At the moment it looks like an X-562 will fit our needs fine. It can be delivered with a 2.8m draft and a 2.5m draft. I am going North Europe-Canaries, West Indies, Galapagos, Fiji, NZ, Australia, India, Red Sea. Can you give me an indication of the draft which in your opinion allows us to go the most nice places on the route?

My wife and I have read the Cruising Encyclopedia. It’s a fantastic guideline for sailors. All kinds of tips and safety issues we put on our 37ft sailboat. After reading the book we had only one wish. Making our own cruise in the year 2004 with our two daughters in a Sundeer yacht.

Buying a new or secondhand model is not possible. But we wonder if it’s possible to buy a hull of a Sundeer 56 and finish the interior of the boat in three or four years ourselves, with the Cruising Encyclopedia as a guideline. Some questions were raised when we thought about this idea. I hope you can find the time to answer the following questions. I thank you in advance.

1) Do you sell drawings of the Sundeer 56 so we can have the hull made in Holland? If so what are the costs. 2) Are there already Sundeer yachts built in Europe? If so who can I contact for information. 3) The original Sundeers are made of aluminum. I want to make the boat from steel. Is that possible? -Peter

I really like the push knobs you use on your galley cabinetry, but cannot seem to find them locally. Could you let me know who your supplier is? Much appreciated, Wendy

Greetings! I have been doing alot of reading lately, specifically your Surviving the Storm and the latest Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia books. Excellent pieces of work by the way! I came across a piece of information that puzzled me but I figured it was just a typo. But more recently I came across it again in your FAQ on setsail.com. Specifically, the reference is to the fact that a dipole antenna is superior to a long wire (i.e. insulated backstay). I’m confused about the reference to a dipole giving 8 times the output compared to a longwire. A normal simple dipole antenna has a gain of 3db which results in twice the output not 8 times. Also, the dipole is directional with fairly deep null areas off the ends of the antenna so the 3db gain figure is only really true relative to a point broadside to the antenna. If you really know of a dipole configuration with an 8x advantage (that would be a gain of 9db) please let me know. I currently use a whip for marine SSB and an insulated backstay for the ham rig. Some more gain over the unity gain solutions will be greatly appreciated. Also, thanks for the info on the WH Autopilot. You sold me, I will be ordering one very soon! Smooth Sailing!–Doug Dotson

We have purchased a 1973 43′ Gulfstar Trawler which is in need of interior refurbishing. We are interested in cork or bamboo products for flooring and wall paneling. Would these products be acceptable for the marine environment? Thank you- Kathleen and Rufus

What can you tell me about sailboat cushion fabrics? We are building a 50-foot sailboat, and would like to have the most up to date info. Thanks, Thomas

Hello,

I need a word of advice: Would you feel comfortable leaving a boat unattended for a month in St. Lucia Rodney Bay Marina or you would prefer moving it to Guadeloupe or Antigua? Thanks for your help, Giorgio

Steve, when entering the Marquasas, if you have a sealable customs/gun locker, will they let you keep a gun on board, rather than confiscating it?

Do you know of any good websites that do recruiting for the marine industry? I’m looking to change careers. Have been in Business Development in the technology market. Avid sailor. Thanks, Tom

My wife and I have considered buying a catamaran and putting it into a bareboat program. This seems like an economical way to make sure that I have a boat available to me (paid off) when I retire in 5 years.

What would you recommend?

Sincerely Yours, J. Mitchell (Mitch) Patridge, Jr.

Dear Steve, Just finished your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Great ideas and information. My wife and I just bought a Stevens 47 and hope to start applying your theories soon on our planned circumnavigation. Its 500 nm fuel range has me concerned though. Would you advise converting 50 gal. of its water tankage to fuel, leaving 75 gal. of water and a 20 gph genset powered watermaker? – Jim

I’ve got an electrical generating concept to bounce off you. The boat is a catamaran with two Yanmar 27 HP engines. I want to power a Marine Air 16K btu air conditioner without adding a genset (third engine, weight). I’d like to run two 120 amp alternators in parallel on each engine (one regulator per engine) by connecting their fields together. Then add a second 3KW inverter that powers only the airco compressor. A link 20 runs the 800 AH battery bank. What do you think? Thanks, Bill

Good Day: We are sailing our 48′ ketch up the Hudson into Canada this summer. We keep the boat in Elbow Cay in the Bahamas and plan to pull the masts in Albany.

I’ve seen awnings that don’t need to be supported by halyards. I’ve seen them supported with frames made with PVC pipe. Any idea who sells or might have plans for such an awning?

Do you sell or are you aware of any videos that might be of interest to us for this trip? Kindest regards, Steve

Dear Steve and Linda, I own a Columbia 50 sailboat and I am redoing the exhaust system. Do you know what the original water jacket exhaust was made of ? I have been told that copper is the best as long as no other metals are involved. I have tried a water lift but the back pressure is taking too much power from the engine (Westerbeke 107). I would like to go back to the original as I have the room to do it now. A stand pipe would work but I do not like the long section of dry stack. Any information would be helpful. p.s. great books I have “The Circumnavigators’ Handbook” and “Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia” Thanks So Much, Charles

Hi–I took your advice (article on The New Way to Get Weather Faxes) and got weather faxes from Marine Prediction Center. When I opened them they were scrambled letters and numbers only. Is the TIF format something I need to have a program for in order to decode and read? Thanks, Frank

You mention more than once in (your) books how pleased (you are) with your barograph. Some probably don’t handle the motion of a sailboat very well. Which one (do you) recommend? Thanks, Neal

Dear Steve and Linda: Have your Encyclopedia and am now on my second reading to really start nailing down the key points you make…what a great book…couple of quickies I have now…Do you navigate with GPs with celestial as backup? Thanks, Richard

I am now interested in a 40 foot Newporter that seems to be in great shape. I’m the guy from Alaska and wanted a motorsailer. Do you know anything about these boats? There was 122 made, an older model but appears to have nice lines to her. The only thing I might wonder about is the freeboard. She is nice and heavy at 30,000# 5600 in the keel. I happened to love wooden boats. This is a cold mold with fiber glass. I anxiously wait your response. Cheers, Spike

Hi Steve, I have been researching the used boat market for monhulls in Florida and am looking for a 40-45 foot monohull. I have a budget of 70,000 for a used boat and then know that it may take another 30000-40000 to complete the process to have all that I would want to be safe and comfortable to take off for 5 years.

I wanted to get your advice on some hulls that I have found. First is the cost effective Morgan 41-415 and 416 years 1976 and 1978. A lot of boat for the money. But I know it is slow and the quality may not be desirable. Second is a 1977 Halberg Rassey 41. A blue water boat, a center cockpit. I feel it is solid and quality built. Has all the room we need. Third is a 1974 Soverel 48. A long water line fast boat with a hull and keel design similar to your yachts.

All the boats I look at that are aft cockpit in this size have small master cabins. The center cockpits have big master cabins. A big cabin is important to us. I know you don't like center cockpits. If I could get some advise on the above boats or if you could recommend some yachts I should be hunting for with aft cockpits that you would buy if you had my budget and size requirement. This would be most helpful to start my process right. I am trying to follow all your advise but must start with an older used yacht. Thank you so much. Good luck. Corey

I’m currently stationed out in Hawaii and own a Lancer 30-5. I was thinking of sailing her to my next duty station in San Diego. I was wondering if you had any insight on that particular boat.–Brent

Can a ratchet block be used in order to control the release of a furling line? The 44′ boat I recently purchased uses a small diameter spectra line for furling, and if and when it takes off in a breeze, it can do great damage to the hands! If you let it go, it usually kinks in the aft furling block. Thanks, Ted

I am continuing to work on re-fitting my Columbia 45 with Mike Conner’s continued assistance.

We are beginning to engineer running halyards and lines back to my cockpit. I have main, jib and spinnaker halyards as well as the spinnaker topping lift halyard. My current main has one set of reef points and I intend to have two sets when I build my next main, so I am planning for two reefing lines. We would like to know whether I should plan to run these six lines back to the cockpit or if there are additional ones that should go back as well. If we run more than six, we are aware of deck organizers that stack the lines so four can run back with two on top of two.

Do you recommend for or against stacking lines with deck organizers?

Can you give a recommendation on which lines/halyards you most strongly recommend running back to the cockpit? Thank you for your input. – Eric

Gentlemen: For years we have been setting our headsail on a roller furler and, once tightened to the desired deployment, have simply cleated the jib halyard off to remain at the same tightness until we changed the headsail. It has been suggested that the jib halyard should be loosened when the boat is not in use, to be tightened again when the jib is deployed. Are we doing any significant damage to the standing rigging, the roller furling gear or the luff of the jib/genoa by failing to release the halyard when the boat is not in use? Thank you. J.P. Anderson

In your new weather book, do you cover storm tactics in a yawl? On a mizzen staysail where do you place the clue? We are thinking of getting a mizzen staysail for our Crealock 37. The mizzen mast is about 21′ tall, is this too small for a mizzen spinnaker or stay with the staysail? Thanks, Dave

I am currently looking at a 54 Hylas to be used for coastal cruising in Florida and the Bahamas, very little extended blue water. A lot of daysailing. Would you recommend a furling boom or in-mast (vertical battens)? Are the in-boom furlers relatively trouble-free? Thank you. Richard

Aloha Folks: I am, like too many new cruisers, spending money adding things I MIGHT need…I am thinking about prep for the day at sea when not smart enough to avoid heavy weather, and I need a drogue.

AVALON, TPI hull #5 has at the stern port and starb an open chalk on the rail thru which in a tie up to a dock leads fair to the cleat mounted thwartship on the stern.

I am wondering how to secure drogue lines considering their strain and the stern line cleat set at right angles to the pull of the drogue line.

What would you say to leading the drogue bridle thru the hole between the cleat “feet”, then a single turn around a heavy winch then secured to the midship cleat on the rail? The winch turn to facilitate retrieval, the stern cleat to provide a fairlead, and the midship cleat to provide a fair securing place.

Thanks, Scott

Greetings, I have purchased two of your books, with CDs, and they are excellent. I refer to them regularly to solve specific problems and for general learning (random open and read).

One area I want more information on, and cannot find in either of the books (Surviving and Offshore) is motorsailing. In addition to your two books, I have done quite a bit of research on the web, looked for magazine articles (current and archive), etc., and still cannot find any information. All I can find is the occasional reference to motorsailing in some trip logs.

I am interested in the theory and practice of motorsailing, and the pros and cons, cautions (re: sails, motor) etc. Can you provide this information and/or refer me to a qualified source of information on this.

By the way, another item I couldn’t find in your books was on the matter of what gear/or neutral to leave the engine in when sailing (I recently switch from a folding to three-blade fixed prop). Thanks, Howard

Do you still use the WH Autopilots referred to in your first edition? Where can I find them? Website? Regards, Hal

I realize this must be the single most common question you hear, but I cannot find it on your FAQ page. What are your recommendations on rig type and boat size for a cruising couple? We currently have a Frers 41, but want to move aboard and go offshore indefinitely – so we are looking at other boats. When we cruise now – which is every available moment (we do not race), our boat is stuffed with all manner of gear, supplies, bikes, books etc. Our gear wish list is long, and provisioning for a long journey… Personally we love split rigs, and are very inclined towards a marconi rigged schooner we have seen. My concerns are handling a large boat (60′) with my wife, and of course maintenance costs. Any pointers you may be able to give us would be much appreciated. Thank you for all the information you have published. Alex & Daria Blackwell

Is there a listing of used Dashew boats available?–Tom

Have you had experience with the Tacker, that plastic device that slides over the roller furled headsail to attach the clew of a spinnaker so you don’t use a pole? It seems to me the load on it would be excessive and possibly bend the foil on the furler.