Can you provide any special/unique info on DEERDANCER, a 1993 deerfoot 67′? Thanks.

Dear Sir, Madam Thank you for sending me your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Have read it with great enthusiasm. One nice touch is that rarely money matters have been mentioned in the book for equipment’s, costs, boats etc…one great detail. However perhaps you could let me have some idea of cost for actually purchasing a used boat and kitting it short handed circumnavigation. Indeed looking for properly designed and equipped offshore boats like yours if extremely difficult. So could you please let me have some idea. Or perhaps brokers phone numbers (anywhere in the world), I would like to get an aluminum fast cruiser, category zero, from 45 to 60ft, in good condition. Maybe it may not be enough but my present cash budget is GB£ 130000. Thank you for you assistance Once again, congratulation to Linda and Steve Dashew for their great work on the book. Best regards Laurent

Dear Mr. Dashew: A few years ago, I bought your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and found it most informative. For the past 3 years I have been building a Baltek Superlite balsa/epoxy 50′ Simonis-designed catamaran here in Johannesburg, South Africa. We have never sailed or owned a boat before, and every day we find new challenges and unique problems that we have to overcome. We are building this boat 600 kilometers from the nearest port with no experienced folk anywhere in sight. Despite these handicaps, so far I think we have managed pretty good, and day by day we are getting closer to our dream. We are now close to finishing the hull, deck and bulkheads. After this we will then commence with the deck hardware and internal fitting.

The purpose of my email: I cannot find any readily available information either in your book or elsewhere on the Internet providing details regarding the rope to winch (Lewmar – self tailing) angle. I am referring to the genoa rope – at what angle to the winch drum should this rope connect? I would imagine that the rope should meet the drum at about 90 degrees – but I am not sure.

You must be extremely busy but your advice will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Wiets W

Dear Mr. Dashew, Your books are most informative, thank you for writing them. I have recently inherited a steel Bruce Roberts 38 built by an uncle who was a professional fitter/welder. I like the boat, but do not favor its ketch rig. Reading your work, it has occurred to me that I might convert the rig to a mast forward sloop.

At the present time I do not want to replace the entire rig. However, in preparation for a 6 month Bahamas–Chesapeake cruise I need to replace the main and one headsail anyway.

So, here is my question. Am I likely to benefit from removing the mizzen and replacing the main with a much larger big roach full batten sail, keeping the current mast in its present position (13ft from bow, LOD 38)?

Knowledgeable friends tell me that there are many complex balance and stability factors involved. I question this because I can balance the boat without the mizzen on most points of sail over a fairly wide range of wind speed. As for stability, I would not increase mast height. With a P36ft/E14ft I can almost match the sail area if I go with a big roach mainsail.

I contacted Bruce Roberts but was dissatisfied with the response as they only wanted to sell me plans for a traditional cutter rig.

If the conversion has merit can a good rigger/sailmaker help me work out the details or would I need to involve a naval architect? Any recommendations? I’m in Florida. Thanks, Beau

Our boat is a traditional sloop, with a fin keel and skeg-hung rudder. (1981 Mariner center cockpit 39′–the keel sits a little more forward than you normally see, but she seems to sail fine in normal conditions.)

We had assumed we would try to squeeze the budget to find cash to install a removeable inner forestay and running backstays for the sole purpose of flying a hank-on storm jib there (with our planned trysail). However, our sailmaker recommends modifying a storm jib into a sail like ATN’s Gale Sail, to set OVER the roller-furling headsail. While I had read that they weren’t great re: center of effort being so far forward, he says it will not be an issue. He said he’d only advise the inner stay & backstays as support for the mast…and that we have a pretty beefy spar as it is so perhaps not necessary. We intend to sail Maine Bermuda Caribbean , then possibly to Europe at some point. We are a crew of 2 parents and a young child. We are on an EXTREMELY tight budget (i.e. most of our gear is being purchased second-hand) so we do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that’s not really necessary.

On the other hand we want to be safe…. Do you have any thoughts or advice on this subject?

I just picked up a copy of your new edition 2 days ago and haven’t put it down. Myself and several others with boats in the 40-foot range meet regularly to discuss our preparations for eventual bluewater cruising. Departures start next year and stagger out for the next 5 years. I’ll be promoting Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia as a purchase (investment) everyone must make. Here is my first question: On page 660 you show a picture of a headboard carrier with an integral sheave. (I now have 2-to-1 using a block on the headboard.)

Where do I purchase the type of carrier shown in your photo??

Dear SetSail, Can you recommend a good "cruise and learn" course that my husband and I could take with our two children, ages 12 and 8, this summer? We live in Massachusetts, but were thinking of exploring a new area like the Pacific NW. However, we are open to any area. Thank you. Sincerely, Andrea

Hello and thank you for reading this. On two previous transatlantic passages I used a Plastimo belt driven wheel unit in the cockpit as a backup to my primary Robertson autopilot. The unit worked well. It was purchased in 1989 and has been discontinued. I am departing shortly for a long passage and would like to know the best alternative on the market today. The steering on our 48′ custom built Al Mason Ketch is hydraulic. I want the strongest, most reliable unit available. This will be mounted in the cockpit as a backup to the primary autopilot. Thanks for any assistance, Steve

Hello Steve. First off thanks for writing the Encyclopedia. It was a driving force in getting my wife and I to buy a boat and sail the West Coast from Vancouver to Mexico.

We are now looking to move up in size from our Roberts 44 to potentially an Irwin 52. These boats are rare on the West Coast and abundant on the Southeast Coast. They have 2 keel configs – one has a centerboard and shoal draft of 5’6", and the other is a fixed keel with a draft of 7 feet. I have no experience with big boats with centerboards, and would value your opinion on their merit when going to windward? What do you think of Irwins?

Thanks a bundle, Tony

Dear Steve & Linda, I have read both your books several times. How can anyone read the same stuff over and over? I can, if it is as interesting and informative as your books. (Especially the Encyclopedia). I just sold my O’Day 40 and I am preparing to sell my business. After the business is sold, I want to buy the last boat that I will own. ( I am 57 years old, & I want to do some serious cruising) I love the Sundeer 67, but I do not know if I will be able to afford it. Are you still building boats? If so, can you give me a ballpark price of both the Sundeer 56 & 67(built in aluminum). If it is not in the realm of my ability, then I will go in a different direction. If you are not building anymore, can I purchase the plans? Thank you. Tony

I cruise in Florida and the Bahamas. I am quite worried about mildew problems. Losing a sail to mildew (I would replace it if the stains wouldn’t come out) after a year would be totally unacceptable to me, no matter what the performance compromise I needed to make. Should I stick to Dacron and stay away from all laminated products? Norman Freedman Sabre 452

Hi! My dealer and I are having this contest, you know the kind 😉 about painting the prop shaft and prop. He’s already done it, and insists it’s "always done that way." I say no. I want the paint removed. The vessel is a 2000 Hunter Passage 450, the prop is an Autoprop. The Autoprop dealer (A&B Marine) recommends not painting but using their "Anti-Fouling Goop," a greasy lanolin compound. I have had to scrape the barnacles off the prop personally, so I know that bottom paint does not retard marine growth here in SW Florida. The Goop "seems" to work. It’s not been tried on a clean prop over an entire season. Comments? I love the books, videos, CDs and am amazed with MaxSea, especially the weather routing. Keep sailing! Errrr…… Boating!!!!!! Regards, Drew D

Hi, I’ve just finished your latest Storm Tactics, it’s grate.I’ve also read and loved your others. Can you tell me how to tell if my prop is sized properly.I own and am planing on cruising my Rob Perry designed Islander 32. It has a Westerbeak 25 hrs . My engine manual doesn’t say anything about max engine RPM. My current prop is a 12/14 two blade. At full throttel the RPM is 3400. I’m not sure what my hull speed should be,the waterline is 25′, and I can’t look it up in my Cruisers Encyclopedia because I lent it out and havent gotten it back.I can get .4 gal per hour and about 5kts at 1800 RPM. Is this too low of a power setting for long periods. Do deisel do better at higher settings. Is it hard on them to run at higher settings, say 3000 RPMs for extended periods.It seems that power settings above 2600 dont produce higher boat speeds.Any thaught on all the above would be a great help. Thanks

Steve – It’s finally time to take our Deerfoot 61/63 out the St. Lawrence from Chicago to Maine for the summer, then the Caribbean for the winter and the Med for the following summer. I have a question regarding anchors. I have a 105lb CQR that works well but needs replacing, as the point has rusted through. I am considering the purchase of the following: 105lb CQR, 140lb CQR, 110lb Bruce, or 110lb Claw (Bruce knockoff). Which would you recommend? In particular, have you gotten any feedback on the Simpson Lawrence Claw anchors? They typically are priced less than 50% of the same size Bruce. (FYI, I also have a Fortress FX85 and a 100lb Paul Luke fisherman anchor as backups.) Thanks in advance, Mike

Steve, First let me say I have appreciated the wealth of information in your books and website. Thanks!

In considering an aluminum hull for use primarily in the tropics and temperate zones, I was intrigued by your reference that on Beowulf you chose to use no insulation. You reference careful attention to the head and hull liners. Was there any attempt to provide insulation via the head and hull liners or did you just eliminate the insulation that would have otherwise been used and use standard liner materials? Also, you reference the reveals between the liner panels to promote ventilation between the liner and deck. Did you use a specific % of open space design spec, or just go more with looks? Given your experience in the tropics, would you go this route again, or use insulation? Anything else to consider if choosing to use no insulation?

Thanks for sharing your insights. David

Steve, I have a chance to pick up a 53′ Ferro cement sail boat. It needs to be finished out with masts, paint etc. Do you have any input in the Ferro cement design. It was built in Alaska, nice lines and quality hard ware, new Volvo engine, all oak inside. I can not see any rust leaking through the cement, it is in a boat yard and has been there for 10 years. It has not sailed. Please give some input if possible. Cheers, Spike

I am looking for designs for a steel yacht capable of worldwide cruising and being handled by a couple. Your ideas on yacht design seem to be the same as mine, particularly those regarding the priorities of equipment, safety, layout, engine rooms and cutting down on the fancy junk.

I am a naval architect and master mariner and am stuck in China for the next four years building a series of cargo ships and tankers. I would like to occupy my spare time by building a yacht for what I hope will be my imminent retirement after 35 years of building ships. Thus the requirement for a steel design.

In China there is high quality and cheap steel available but limited skills in welding, I also have all the cutting and bending equipment available to me. I am thinking of a design of 75 to 80 feet overall, this is I think the limit that can be handled by a small crew, my wife is not a great sailor in terms of usefulness on deck, otherwise brilliant but just ballast on deck. I liked what I can see of your Locura, I am conservative, I like Beowulf but the rig is new to me. I was thinking of a staysail schooner? I would much appreciate your advice, ideas, design suggestions or even a suggestion for a complete design to fit my requirements. Many thanks and best regards, Paul

I have a 50 ft cruising catamaran recently purchased from the owner builder. I note in your cruising encyclopedia that you mention that only cast hatches can be welded directly to the coaming. I was wondering if there was a way to weld lower priced extruded hatches to a 6061 deck? Look forward to your comments.

A SetSailor sent in an excellent idea for making velcro work for headliner panels:

My husband and I read articles on your site regularly. We have a 41-foot sailboat on a lake in New Mexico. Our plan is to retire in 3 years to go cruising. We have done extensive work on the boat to get her ready. I have looked everywhere for a deep, somewhat narrow double sink for the galley. I have seen these sinks on bareboat charter boats but have not been able to locate any. I would greatly appreciate any help you could give me. Thank you. Linda M

Hi Linda and Steve

Thanks for a great book, we have the second edition which I brought in 1998.

I need your help?

My wife,Tina (40) and I (45) have little offshore sailing experience although we have three boats in the past, a 22, 26 and a 32 footer.

We are now thinking of going cruising for a year or more. This would entail the selling of our business , which we started 15 years ago, and the house. We have had about 25 days leave in 15 years and not more than a week at one time. We are just tried of the grind and need a change desperately.

We have 5 kids, 3, 14, 15, 19 and 21 years old of which 4 want to come with us so any boat under 45 feet is going to be tight.

My plan is to buy a boat in the States, spend three months, or as long as it takes, honing our offshore skills and then sailing the Pacific, through New Zealand then back to South Africa. The boats that we have considered are a Beneteau Oceanis 440 or Cal 46 (although most Cals are old and we have never seen one in the flesh). The budget for the boat is $90,000 with a max of $110,000 and $10,000 for improvements or gear. We cannot buy in SA because of stock and pricing problems. Simply there just aren’t any decent boats locally except overpriced Cats. Also found a strange boat on the Internet, a Macgregor 65 cruising version, long and narrow, but has a beam ratio that you recommend in your book. We have only viewed a Beneteau 440 at a local sailing school which Tina likes, I am not so sure. I spoke to one of the instructors and he stated that he would take her anywhere anytime?!

We also do not want to make trips to the States, as time won’t permit this, and it is costly.

1. What boat would you recommend within our budget? What are your feelings on the ones we have considered?

2. We have planed on a monthly cruising budget of $1,000, is this enough? Currently land based budget is about $5000 per month, $900 an school fees alone!!!

3. We plan to keep $25,000 for emergencies.

4. My wife and kids have duel passports UK and SA and I have SA only, where should we make "home base" from a registration point of view?

5. What about boat insurance?

Wish that we could afford one of your boats, even an old one.

Regards, Barry

Due to our professions, we both have wonderful retirement plans through state and county governments. However, we do NOT have enough cash to pay off the boat— not even close— before we leave. So, the question is: Do people go cruising while still making payments on their boat? Do any lenders allow this? We don’t want to ask our lender just yet because we don’t want to set off any alarms. Does anyone know of any lender that does allow you to take you boat out of the country? We have direct deposit of our paychecks each month, and the payment can be taken directly from the account.

Hi. I have a question about shipping SOLAS Flares. I have recently purchased a boat in France (An Amel Super Maramu Millennium “Liahona”) and have been shipping equipment etc. to La Rochelle, France, to outfit the boat. However, I can’t seem to find a way to ship the $500 worth of Pains Wessex flares that I have purchased. Nobody will take them because they are categorized as class 1.4A and 1.3A explosives per their MSDS documentation. Surely somebody has figured out a way to get flares to foreign countries for cruising. I have even contacted Pains Wessex and though they have tried to be helpful I have still run up against the wall (even when trying to ship them by ocean freight). Any help you might provide would be appreciated. (PS this is one of the few questions that I have that I couldn’t find an answer to in your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia). Sincerely, Gary

Hello–My husband has gone off the “deep” end. He wants to sell everything we own and buy a 30-40′ sailboat and cruise the Pacific coast. I’m all for it, but I need to figure out how to prepare for an undertaking like this! Neither of us have ever sailed before, however, my husband is taking a 4-day ASA certification class in Seward, Alaska this summer and he has been commercial fishing in Alaska (Prince William Sound & Cook Inlet) for years. Please let me know of a book or a person who has gone from landlubber to sailor in a short period of time so I can start to figure out exactly what kinds of preparations we need to be making. The sooner the better–he wants to leave THIS summer! Thank you–Erin

I am in purchase inspection of a Lancer 42 sloop, engine Perkins 85 hp. Another same model would be far away and therefore about $25,000 more expensive to get with the biggest engine of 220hp. I am aware of hull speed formula, but these boats were build with planning hull and can speed up to 12 knots, I guess. Now, how could I change the power engine, do I need another prop and shaft, to become the most powerful and faster boat under power? If change, what are such costs and makes it sense, if the goal is to have just in case a fast boat? Thanks for your opinion, have a great day, Ute

I have a catamaran and the water tanks are about 6′ long with several baffles to limit surging. There is only one access hatch on each tank at the aft end. There is now quite a lot of white scummy film lightly sticking to the sides and bottom. Although we don’t drink the tank water and only use it for washing, is there any way to (chemically) clean the tanks as I can’t physically reach most of the tanks surfaces to scrub them–recommendations on chemicals? The boat is based in Turkey.

Hi Steve: Batteries and their maintenance are always an issue on our boat (Grand banks 46 Trawler), so I was very interested in that equalization process you wrote about lately. My simple question is: How do I get this done? I have one of these new IUoU Chargers that does everything automatic–so how can I charge my batteries up to the 15 V you mention when the charger stops charging at 14 something volts and then just delivers a trickle of current to even out the self-discharge of the battery? We have 2 engine batteries 12V/200Ah and one service battery bank of 6 x 2V/650Ah Christian M. from Switzerland

Hi Steve, Once again here I am at your information trough. Well, INTERLUDE is on the dry getting bottom job so I am going to address the long-overdue absence of some form of lightning protection. Here on the Mississippi Gulf coast, lightning damage is a very real threat, as my dock neighbor got a firsthand appreciation of the awesome damage a strike can inflict–all electronics shot, and a total of 72 exit points in the hull, 4 of which where about 1/4″ in diameter–2 below the waterline. Flooding was kept in check because the 2 major exit points occurred in integrated water tanks

INTERLUDE, a Hans Christian, Christina 40, has a deck stepped rig with all metal components except chainplates bonded together with #8 cable. Why they omitted the chain plates is beyond me, but I intend to address that in this project.

What I am proposing to do is construct a submersed ground plate, 5″ by 72″ of 3/16 or 1/4″ copper, connected thru the hull with silicon bronze 1/4″ or 5/16″ carriage bolt connectors and marine sealant every 8″ or so (overkill?). This satisfies the ISO ground plate standard of 2.5 sq. feet. The reasoning behind the plate dimension is that studies have shown that the edge surface of the conductor plays a very important part in strike dissipation. So, in an attempt to improve on the ISO standard, I have increased the exposed linear edge rather than just going with a square plate. To this plate via the carriage bolts, I will connect #4 cable to the compression post and #6 to the chain plates.

Now comes the problem of the mast to compression post connector. The aluminum mast sits on a stainless deck base which is through-bolted to the bronze compression post. Intuition tells me not to rely on this mechanical connection but weld a lug to the mast and again connect one of the stainless through-bolts to the mast with #4 cable which should insure a good low-resistance electrical path. At the masthead will be a rod sticking 6″ above the VHF antenna and for good measure, one of those bottle-brush dissipaters. OK, now I have that immersed chunk of copper. Will I be inviting cathodic problems if I include these components in the bonding system or should I isolate the lightning protection components (mast, stays, chainplates, compression post and ground plate) from the bonding system and let them reach their own electrical potential? What do you think of the solution? Thanks, so much. All the best to you, Linda and the family, Kevin, Bay St. Louis, MS.

Our catamaran is being delivered to Ensenada just after Christmas. Can you point me to information regarding sailing north from Ensenada to San Francisco. Thanks, Steve

Good day! I was wondering if you would be able to refer me to an online source for understanding weather in the Caribbean–rainy season and dry season, and what exactly triggers the onset of each. Any direction you could give would be much appreciated! Thanks, Tim

Dear Dashews, I have been very impressed with all three books I have ordered and read, Surviving the Storm, Mariner’s Wx Handbook, and Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia…I would really like to relate more to the weather and practice more with the reading of 500mb and surface charts. I am not very good in tracking these down on the Internet even with the use of the wx links in your web site. Could you please suggest which site will offer me the best data for the 500mb and surface charts? I really do not care if it covers one particular part of the world because I would like to be able to study areas around the world with the worst wx at that time so as to relate the forcast info with what is actually occuring. Thanks, Silas

Hi Steve, I have just discovered your website, and via Ocean Navigator have ordered your storm tactics book (Surviving the Storm). We are preparing for a 14-month trip first from East Coast US to Europe, then down the clasic trading route to Brazil, and through the Strait of Magellan in January, & up the west coast of SA, returing home via Panama Canal and the Yucatan. I have had a lot of people recommend the Sea Station unit to us. It’s a lot to jam on a well-found 36 ketch, but I am tempted. It has weather fax through the SSB as part of the software. I would like your comments. Do you think this is any substitute in regions where weather fax is unavailable? It uses low power and is no big deal for the computer, so long as we have power. Many Thanks, Andy.

Could you recommend the best coastal and ocean navigation textbook available? Thank you. Simon

Hi, I am deciding between a Newporter 41 & an Islander Freeport 41. My boyfriend & I plan to cruise around the Caribbean for a fairly extended period & both of us have heard mixed reviews about the sailing capabilities of each (spanning…sails pretty good, handles like a dog, porpoises through the water, handles well for a cruising boat). We’re not interested in a high performance racing boat, but we will want to be able to head up into the wind in rough weather. I’ve found basically no info on the Newporter 41, & not too much on the other. Can you help? – Barb

Hello from Andrew and Sue on MYSTIC. Just in case you cannot recall the boat, it is a 52ft aluminum "Shark 50" with a 7.3ft draft & relatively light displacement. It has been awhile since we last saw you in Bequia–at the time you said if we ever needed any help to get in touch, so here goes. Sue has decided she would rather be fixing up an old house than sailing so we are planning on putting MYSTIC up for sale. We were already planning to spend the winter in Annapolis and so are planning at least initially to put her up for sale there. Our basic questions come out of the fact that MYSTIC is fairly unique, we are not sure what she is worth, where is the best place to sell her, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Andrew and Sue on MYSTIC

Mr. Dashew…I am trying to get a little insight into the vessel that I have purchased. I have no offshore experience at all at this time and have only owned my boat for two years. As I live in Sidney, BC I do a lot of weekend outings through the Gulf and San Juans, not at all comparable even to the St. of Georgia. My question is this. The boat I have chosen is a Spencer 35,a sister ship to “Whisper”, Hal Roth’s boat. (Hull 29) (Mine is 31) It still has the old roller boom. (That will change) Everybody tells me what a wonderful boat I have for serious, inexpensive offshore cruising. Being that the Spencer is a local production boat from the old days (Mfg. Richmond, BC 1966) I am wondering if the local folks are more prejudiced than accurate in their positive statements to me. In spite of Mr. Roths adventures, is my Spencer a good offshore vessel? I know it is not like your vessels but it is affordable for me and I find it very easy to handle in spite of no lines aft. (I have to go forward to change my mind as well as sails.) I realize this question sounds very weak, but I plan on South Pacific adventurers in the next 3 to 5 years and due to no present experience, I have no reference to measure from. Thank you Sir. Regards, Ron

I’ve enjoyed reading the Q&A on rigs on your site…and have a question…I wonder if this is the way to communicate it?

I have a 60′ aluminum centerboard boat–very French looking. I love the boat but the rig is a handful. The mast came out of Fortuna Light–a Whitbread boat from the 80s. It’s very beefy, but also very tall–about 80′ off the water. I put a Harken track on the main so it’s not too bad to handle, although it takes a while to get it up. The headsails are a lot of work though. The boat has a fairly healthy weather helm (I’ve experienced worse, for sure) but the main is old, a bit baggy and has been cut and recut quite a few times. All in all, the sail area is generous, and I could probably get by with a little less.

What I’d like to do is re-rig the boat as a ketch, with nearly equal masts. Do you think I can get the mast height down to around 60-65′? There would be two natural places for masts, about 10-12′ fore and aft of the current mast. Can I use those spots and then design the sails to provide a balanced center of effort? Is this worthwhile or would I be better off buying electric halyard and Genoa winches? All the best, Willy R

Dear Steve and Linda: I’m not going to go on about the profound influence your work has had on my wife and I, nor will I bore you with how much we appreciate your efforts–we’ve sent a separate letter for that 😉 I have a question concerning the B&R rig. We are slowly getting together our “ideas book” for a 70-foot aluminium ketch and it occurred to me that twin B&R rigs would offer many advantages. In addition to their survivability (HUNTERS CHILD testimony) I figured the absence of any true backstays would allow much scope for a range of "reaching sail" possibilities on the mizzen. The full roach, full batten mains are also appealing. I understand the limits with the 30-degree spreader angle, but figure that even with the wind dead astern we would achieve 85% plan form. Judging from what you said in your offshore video we figure we’re more likely to want to head up a little, use the reachers/spinnakers and get more ventilation through the boat anyway.

Getting to the point slowly…Deb and I have just married and we chartered a Hunter 41 for two weeks in the Whitsundays–largely because of the B&R rig and also because we wanted some experience in a bigger boat with just the two of us. Though we had a great time, we were a little disappointed. On the couple of days it reached 25kts gusting low 30s, the headstay would slacken severely reducing our windward performance and introducing a lot of unwelcome heel. I understood that the B&R rig was originally designed for a hydraulic vang (though I know HUNTERS CHILD had a solid vang). I figure a hydraulic vang may help solve this problem? It could also have been the barrel of the furl system (ProFurl) on the headstay bending around an otherwise solid stay. Is this possible? Can you think of any engineering problems with the rig if we were to fit a removable inner forestay, given there is no easy adjustment in the rig once tuned? Is there an information resource you know of where I might research this further? I welcome any comment you may have on these matters. Take Care, Gair and Deborah, Perth, Australia

Once again thanks for the great books. I’ve had the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia for a year or so and have just been given Surviving the Storm as a present…One more to go, but Christmas is near.

Just a quick one: I’m in Hong Kong at the moment and am looking for my next yacht to start kitting out for some extended cruising in the region. I have found a slightly run down Formosa 55′. Seems to be mostly cosmetic. The older wooden masts have been replaced by alloy ones but have not been fitted yet. The fittings have all been kept as have the terminals (look like Norseman to me), and seem to be in good order.

The point being, if I replace all the rigging, can I still use the fittings and fit new terminals? It needs new canvas as well. The cost as seen is about US$45,000. I have never sailed this type of yacht before although I have been sailing for 25 odd years and have worked on many boats over the years.

I have another option buying a 1986 Ron Holland design 52′ sloop extremely well kitted out, very sound, and extremely rugged. This however is around US$153,000. Both will be sailed by two people most of the time.

Any ideas or suggestions based on your vast experience would be great. Happy Christmas to you all–Mac.

Steve: I have become interested in a Code 0 furled sail as part of my sail inventory. Carol Hasse just finished a full batten main, cruising spinnaker, 100% jib and storm trysail for my Panda 40 cutter. Unfortunate I find myself always needing to beat to weather (especially in San Diego where I reside) and want the best solution for this problem. How versatile is the Code 0 sail, can I use it in winds greater than 10 knots? Will the Code 0 be effective on my heavy displacement cutter? If you were going cruising long distance and already had a cruising chute would this be your next and only other choice of big sail to carry along? Thanks in advance, Keegan

Hello, I have just purchased your encyclopedia and I am interested in knowing why I can’t find a section on self-furling mainsails. Reading between the lines, I can only imagine that you have little use for them in the offshore environment. I would be interested in knowing if this is true and what you think of these rather popular and seemingly useful inventions. Yours Sincerely, Michael

I am currently reading your book entitled Surviving the Storm and want you to know I think it is one of the most comprehensive books I’ve read thus far–more like a textbook than the typical books on rough weather sailing. It’s possible that I may be asking you something you’re not able to answer. If so, accept my apologies for the inconvenience, but I thought you may be able to help me on finding a book on another related subject. I am looking for any book that discusses the differences in sailing techniques for schooners versus sloops. I have a fair amount of experience both in racing and cruising sloops but don’t know anyone knowledgeable about schooners. I just sold my boat (sloop) and am toying with the idea of possibly buying a schooner if I can find one in my price range. I am nearing 70 years old and would like to find a boat that has a normal amount of sails but would be less strenuous on my tired muscles. (And beside, I always liked the looks of a schooner over simple sloops or ketches.) I already have a zillion books on sailing etc. but have not been able to find any about sailing schooners. If you can give me any info about this I would appreciate it.

Dear Sirs, Please advise which autopilot system will be better for a 12m. steel ketch: Autohelm or Robertson? We have a hydraulic steering system by Vetus. I would like also to know which self-steering you would recommend? We have a central cockpit. Our intention is to sail from the Arabian Sea to Australia so we need really good gear. So far, we have sailed from Slovenia to Oman (wintertime on Med) – hand-steering all the time and only two of us. To be honest, I (would rather) have something to help in the future. Last question – how many solar panels should we have to be able to run fridge and have a hot water system as well? I have ordered your Encyclopedia and am waiting for it to arrive. Thank you for your help. – Nina

Hello and thank you,

Over ten years ago I read of Sundeer 64′ and bought the video and watched it over and over again. I dreamed my wife and I were owners of such a boat thousands of times. Being just regular people, a police officer and stay-at-home mom, we’ll never likely have the means for such an acquisition. Now I see Beowulf and am THUNDER STRUCK. I think if GOD The Father, Son and Holy Spirit decide to sail a human-made vessel, it will be Beowulf. It is as close to perfect as mere mortals can produce. You MAY do a newer sailing design in future days, and it MAY be different here and there, but I can not imagine it could be better. Please continue your work of supplying the able people with such fine boats. We dreamers can always use more "fuel". And those with the financial means to become owners of your creations will be very well satisfied with their fine decisions to do just that. {Three-hundred miles per day…it almost seems to defy the laws of physics.}

With gratitude, encouragement and best regards,
John M

P.S. Hello again, I forgot to ask, I thought you two were steadfast REAR COCKPITTERS! What made you put Beowulf’s cockpit in the CENTER? Cordially, John

I am curious what boats you are designing and building other than BEOWULF. I am actually looking for a boat in the mid-40’s and I am dissatisfied with anything currently available on the brokerage market. To complicate things a little my last boat was a cruising pilothouse multihull, Atlantic 42, which I loved but was impractical for Northeast cruising. Regards, Kevin

I own a Cal 34 III and would like to know what physical measurements I need to provide to my sailmaker to determine the maximum mainsail roach I can put on my sloop.

What effect is there on propeller performance and vibration when fitted in the opposite rotation to that recommended by the boat builder?

I just purchased a 9 year old Grand Soleil Maxi One (19.5m) and am having a lot of problems with engine & MaxProp giving a lot of very bad vibrations and engine not being able to obtain correct cruising revs (should be about 2700/2800 rpm–and getting black smoke when revving above 2200rpm).

Obvious answer is the prop is over pitched. However, on checking with MaxProp rep here in Athens, he just serviced and refitted the prop with 20 degs with right rotation. According to the Manual on board from the builders (Canteir del Pardo) the prop should be 14 degs–Left Rotation.

Of course the over pitching of the prop answers the problem of the engine not revving etc, but would the wrong rotation cause increasingly bad vibrations the more rpm’s applied?

I need some urgent advice because the incorrect running of the engine over the last 8/9 years (by previous owner) has caused all sorts of problems including overheating, broken pipe in heat exchanger and blown gasket leading to water into the cylinders and turbo etc on my recent outing with service engineers on board testing the engine after service. Thus, decided to put new engine as do not want to have further trouble/time/expense of trying to renew/overhaul existing engine.

Obviously have to find also a solution for the bad vibrations, but I cannot get Maxprop or del Pardo to reply to my emails and faxes.

Hi Steve, I took your advice and got the next size bigger Bruce for my 46 foot, 28 ton displacement schooner. The new 110 lb anchor is quite a conversation piece sitting in the shop while we try to figure out how to mount it. We don’t think a standard bow roller will work because of the 90 deg turn needed to bring the shackle and anchor up onto the roller. It’s difficult enough with the current 60lb CQR. We’re thinking that a pivoting bow roller may work but I’ve not found any rated for that kind of weight. Can you recommend a roller or have any suggestions? Thanks, Carl

Dear Steve, From your books I learned you use schedule 70 chain. Have you had any problems with this chain losing its galvanization? Thanks! John

Good day, I am enjoy your site and also using as a reference source as I am presently having a 42′ aluminum cutter built.

I was wondering if you have and could post a detail/close-up look at your stanchion/lifeline setup. There are several pictures on your site which show an overview and it looks like you used SS pipe going into aluminum pipe stanchion bases welded to the deck. One picture looks like you used SS pipe for some of the lifelines. I would appreciate any details you can provide.

Thank you for considering this request. Cheers, John

Hello, Thanks for both the Offshore and Seamanship: both were great reads. The website is always good for a bit of day dreaming as well as loads of info. Keep up the good stuff!

I’m currently looking into purchasing a smaller (27ft) Dutch classic to enhance sailing, tech and nav skills on coastal North Sea before following the big step dream.

I’ve located a Trintel 1a – in steel and a Trintella 1a in GRP, essentially the same design, both from around 1971. I’d go for steel for security; but the problem is that the steel version is about twice as heavy, still, I’m a bit hesitant about "old plastic"; I’ve read about osmosis, but have no idea what it looks like. Could you give me any ideas on what to look for?

Thanks very much, Eltjo

Hi Steve, Firstly thanks for the books, most of which are bending my shelves. I am looking for my first bluewater cruiser (second hand) and am paralyzed by the conflicting hull material shortcoming. You extol aluminum but here in Australia they are expensive and few and far between ( I would love one however). Steel rusts like mad but is good for offshore can be fixed in far flung places and its integrity is sound up to the last minute before failure. GRP is very common but I understand on boats 10–20 years of age osmosis is common in about 60% of cases. Since I, like most people, need to be able to sell the boat at some stage to recover some funds, what is your advice? My view at present is I cannot trust GRP as I cannot be certain of the build quality in a second hand boat even with a survey. So using that logic steel appears to be my main option as what you see is what you get. Am I over petrified about GRP? Best Regards, Martin

We have an Ice Box (we are considering putting a cold plate or other cooling thingie in but the question remains the same). Has anyone come up with a handy way to utilize this unfriendly space? It is top loading, deep, and much longer than it is wide. I get very cranky trying to keep it together, get in there without a neck cramp and use the food before it goes bad. I was thinking there may be some plastic baskets that are tiered or stackable. Any ideas? Best, Carol

I read in PS May issue that your boat has a 24 volt system. Please let me know where one can easily buy 24 volt light blubs and fixtures. I’m having poor luck here in Northern Cal finding a source. Also, any good ideas for the best way to go for an interior heating system. Propane, diesel, etc. and best btus? Thanks, Mike

Dear Setsail, Would you know of a class we could take to be competent crew members of a sailing boat? We will be sailing with friends this June and would like to pick up a sailing course before going. We are in the Chicago and Michigan City, Indiana vicinity. Thanks, Cindy and Paul

Hi. we’re leaving Ft. Lauderdale, FL. for Charleston, SC, on Thursday; then in about 5 weeks headed for Norfolk VA. Any idea which marina around Norfolk/Hampton makes most sense to leave the boat at (8’4 Draft) from a convenience/security point of view? Regards Phillip

Hi: My name is Mike, and I am thinking about buying a boat and sailing Central America. I have several questions:

Is it better to offer myself as a crew member willing to work for room and board or is it better to go solo? How do I find out about navigating, sailing, which places are safe or unsafe? What is a good size boat to travel on if I was to make a ocean crossing?

I know these are somewhat vague questions, but if you could guide me in the right direction, I would be most appreciative. Thanks, Mike

Please can you help. We are new to boating and have a 40ft sailboat – recently the fuel tank was overfilled and as a result a valve in the gage popped and allowed a considerable amt of fuel into the bilge. I had just cleaned, polished etc the entire inside of the boat to make it smell OK after being closed up for some time and now it smells like the inside of a diesel tank!! Do you have any suggestion what we can do to help eliminate the smell – we are at Hastings, Victoria Australia and everyone here says we just have to live with it and it will diminish in time – I want to try anything – I get sea sick. Your comments will be appreciated. Thanks Bev

Dear Mr. Dashew, I am a cruising sailor planning on taking delivery of a new Hylas 46 in June 03. I have been investigating traction battery options since reading your Tech Talk Battery Maintenance article on SetSail. In addition to the Trojan alternative source mentioned in your article, Yuassa and IBE also manufacture traction batteries. I am particularity interested in IBE as they are a “local” manufacturer to me and the boat will be commissioned in Long Beach. IBE batteries are about 40% less expensive than the source you recommended and they appear to have good life expectancy (1500 cycles @ 80%)and a 5/15 year warranty.

Since they have been available for many years, I wanted to know if you had had any experience with them and, if so, could share that experience with me. The 40% cost deferential saves me over $1200 on a 1000AH 12V bank so I would like to have additional info to make an informed decision. I look forward to your response. Best Regards, Phil

Steve: In the section on engine exhaust systems in your Cruising Encyclopedia you indicate that the exhaust hose should be suspended on flexible mounts to limit noise transmission. In fact, there is a photo of that arrangement that shows a bracket that is hose-clamped to the exhaust hose. Is this bracket available as a stock part anywhere, or did you have it fabricated for BEOWULF? Thanks and best regards, Scott S

I am trying to decide on an LCD radar. I have looked at the JRC1500, the Furuno 1622 and the Raytheon SL72. What do you think is the best LCD radar choice on the market for the dollar? Thanks-Rick

I would like to see information for first time participants on rallies, races and regattas. I went on the NARC Rally thinking it was about safety and found myself in 30-35 kt. winds with gusts even higher. There was no reliable weather information after the weather briefing in Newport and trusted the coordinator to keep us safe and informed. We ended up calling the weather coordinator on our Gobalstar because he had no way of keeping updated on the weather. I would like to know what questions I should ask IF I EVER DO THAT AGAIN. What I should look for in a coordinator to judge the safety of the operation.

I read recently of your joining Sail Mail. I, like you, have a dedicated wfax. Have you switched to ssb–computer weather , or do you still use the wfax primarily? I have a SEA235, didn’t know about its duty cycle when I bought it, have a fast laptop with 400mb of ram, but am also told it will cost additional 1500-1700 dollars for the modem, cables etc. and additional software. So I desire your opinion as to its worth, primarily for weather. Thanks, Dave.

Hello, I’ve been reading Mariner’s Weather Weather (which I find very helpful and readable compared to several other weather books I’ve slogged thru, thanks!) and I was wondering what scale of 500mb and surface charts you recommend I study (as I try to get a hang of this theory before heading out sailing in a few years).

I’ve seen them ranging from very small areas to the world (particularly the 500 mb ones). Thanks, Glen

Hi Steve, I’m reading Offshore Cruising Enc. at the moment, which is excellent. We are a couple in the mid 30’s and plan to set sail along the Tradewinds on a Columbia 43 (MK I – 1970) we have seen and plan to buy. As you started in a Columbia 50, we would appreciate your feelings about Columbia 43’s for Tradewind sailing (and maybe more in future). We are not too happy with the deep draft and the unprotected rudder, however, she seems safe, comfortable, with lots of room and most importantly, she would be in line with our budget for that size of waterline! Any thoughts? Thanks a lot !!! Stephan

Sir, I am considering the purchase of a 1992 Beneteau Oceanis 440. My ideal boat would be around 38-40 ft., but since the 440 appears to be offered at a substantial discount, both the longer waterline and the extra budget room for refit attract me.

I am keen on performance, and the 440's hull is the same of its First 45S5 sister, both designed by Farr. I don't like the high centre of gravity of the boat, and consider changing the keel (currently 1.7 m) to a deeper, lead-bulbed one, as the draft on a similar size performance boat would easily reach 2.2-2.5 m. Later on, I will upgrade the rig. I understand the boat is capable of handling the extra loads.

My question is: Would you recommend such an operation? In other words, is it worth the trouble? I reckon the keel upgrade can be achieved with a budget of circa Usd 5000, because a preventive anti-osmosis treatment already is getting me close to the keel base, thus I am only counting the cost of the new keel and installation. However, especially for lighter wings I presume only a larger sail area will make a substantial performance change over present, and on a boat of this size I assume I will get pretty close to Usd 13000-15000 for a new bigger rig.

With best regards, Murat

Hi Steve & Linda, Well we have made the first step!….I have resigned from my job and my wife has secured a two year leave of absence from her job (starting in July). Thanks in large part to you guys who have inspired us over the years we shall take our two kids 9 & 11 on a two year adventure. I am using the next 6 months to prepare the house for rent, sell my current boat (33′ too small) and buy THE BOAT. I have your book…it is my bedside companion…and have followed your website and FAQs. I’m going for waterline if I can find one in my budget–approx. $150K…we have been looking at the Hylas 44 and 47…your comments on this boat would be appreciated. We intend to spend 6 mos. in the Bahamas (our backyard) then on to the Caribbean. Many thanks!

Hi Steve, Along with other boats, I’ve been looking at a 47-foot ketch that has 454 sq.ft. in the foretriangle, 416 in the main (only one set of spreaders) and 182 in the mizzen. As the mizzen represents only 17% of sail area, by your recommendations on pg.645 of the Encyclopedia, this sail is more decorative than useful and the boat would probably be better rigged as a sloop with a removable inner forestay. If the mizzen were removed and a second set of spreaders added to the main mast to support the inner forestay, could this boat be expected to sail just as before? Or, is it more likely that the main mast would have to be moved aft and both the main and headsail be replaced? Thx for your comments, DM

Greetings- Any chance you know where to buy Kevlar chafe pads? The type I’m referring to are typically about 1 foot diameter and are deck mounted to prevent damage from unsupported blocks. I can’t find these anywhere. Thanks, Randy M

I recently read an article from Forespar, showing that your 78 foot Beowulf is using their AeroRigging spars. My question to you is, does this set up support less maintenance, ease of sailing? Also, I am very close to ordering a 46′ Prout Catamaran, and I am considering my custom rigging options. Which way would you go: Carbon Fibre Spars and Poles AeroRig Furlaway E-Z Furl? I will primarily be the only sailor aboard. Would you please share some of your tried and true experiences with me regarding the way you would go in this situation? Rory

Hello Steve: We are the owners of Tera Nova which we have renamed Mango Tango. We are sailing her around the world and are currently in Malaysia at Port Dickson Marina. We plan to join the Raja Muda Regatta in November. We have done a complete refit since buying the boat in 1999. We added A/C and a generator, changed motors to a 110 HP Volvo, and repainted and many small changes including carbon fiber pole and electric halyard winch. We have averaged, since leaving on our trip, 195 miles per day when sailing. The boat is just terrific we just have not seen any boat as owner friendly, fast and comfortable. We would like to install an asymmetrical spinnaker and would like your advice on a bow sprit. Thank You.

Hello, I was hoping to get your opinion on the S2 9.2 center cockpit…My plan is to liveaboard the boat in the Seattle and/or Portland areas, cruise the Sound, and at the maximum cruise up and down the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North America and cross the Atlantic to Bermuda and back. All this sailing will be done “in season” – I have no intention of tackling the North Pacific in the middle of winter, for instance. My sailing skills are minimal so I don’t really want to get in over my head when it comes to waterline/size…figured the 30′ S2 with its aft stateroom and center cockpit would be a good compromise…? Thanks…

I am familiar with your suggested method of towing a regular inflatable by running lines from eyes on transom, forward and down through the lifting handle. Now I have just bought a new RIB and wondered how you recommend towing one of these babies! It has a D-ring glassed in the bow, near the waterline. Would this be the best place to tow from??

Thanks so much for your response!–Rodd