Thanks Steve, for the comments on teak decks. I am just about to make an offer on an 85 ft Formosa, and I know the decks will need doing in a few years, so I will adjust my offer. The other misgiving I have is the 9′ 6″ draft. I sailed half way round the world a few years ago, going East. This time I am going through the Panama Canal and then the Pacific–could you comment on the draft , please? John

I own a Morris 486 which is equipped with a fully battened mainsail and a 100% roller furling Genoa Each is about 500 ft in area. I am interested in getting more performance in light winds, and was considering either a larger Genoa (135%) or a G-0 gennaker. Any input regarding the pros and cons of each? Conard

When you get a chance could you please ask Steve what he thought of the Rocna anchor he bought after using it in Washington, Canada and Alaskan waters? Thanks, Dennis

Steve & Linda, thank you. I have read your books, kept up over the net, and most of all, have enjoyed your cumulative years of sailing wisdom. I singlehand a Columbia 50 and cruise the islands from Palm Beach, Fl. I have decided to install an anchor windlass and I am looking for suggestions. Ideal appeals to me but I am conservative as to the battery usage. Thank you, Dusko Bruer

Hello! First let me just say how much I appreciate your books, your designs and your web site. You really are unique!

We are starting to seriously think about "getting off"and I therefore have a lot of boat design features to sort out.

I hope you can help me with these two: Storm shutters. How did you deal with storm shutters on the Sundeer series? I think about the large windows in the hull and the "pilot house". Are storm shutters used or are the windows simply designed to be "storm proof"? Insubmersibility. What do you think about insubmersible boats, or modifying a boat (injecting foam in interior spaces that are not used for example) so that it becomes insubmersible? I have seen your comment on the Yacht Saver, but this seems like a costly and technically complex solution (just another thing that needs surveys and that will malfunction when it is needed). Another thing is the problems with large balloons inside the boat in a crisis situation. I hope you will take the time to answer these questions. With regards, Erik

Dear Steve & Linda, It was only yesterday that I was pointing BEOWULF out to some of my sailing students ( I’m a part-time instructor) as she came into Marina del Rey and backed into a berth at Cal YC; it prompted me to make a visit to the Ship’s Store and part with some $’s to purchase a copy of Practical Seamanship, in which I have had my nose firmly buried ever since. Thanks for creating such a practical, logical and well-written tome; it will help make me a better, more rounded sailor and instructor, and aid in passing on my knowledge and experience to the new converts of the fine art of sailing. Perhaps you might clear up a question I have. It seems that I read somewhere that BEOWULF has only 1 (one) thru-hull. Is this so? And if so, where can I find some info on how you managed to achieve this seemingly impossible feat? I must admit I have spent some time thinking about it and am somewhat baffled. I look forward to reading and owning some more of your titles in the future. Thanks, Paul G.

We cruised the Pacific for 5 years from LA to NZ, Japan & Aleutians with a standard s/s frame & Sunbrella soft dodger. Our boat is center cockpit, glass construction.

I’m looking for suggestions on materials and approach to getting a hard dodger built–and looking less ugly than most. A friend used 1/8″ ply with glass & epoxy on his s/s dodger frame but this core bends in only 1 direction and is hard to form-fit. I’m wondering if aluminum is a better choice.

I’d like an opening in the front but nothing hinged–more like a removable panel that can be swapped with a panel of standard dodger window material. Zippers can leak under pressure–so a zippered panel might not be the answer? Any suggestions appreciated.

Under your “Communications at Sea” section under SSB Ground Plane you recommend the referenced antenna due to it not requiring a ground plane. Unfortunately, the marine electronic installers in my area tell me they are not familiar with this type of antenna. For example, is it a simple whip antenna? If so, how long? Can you recommend a vendor that sells this product. Thank you. Downing

Dear Sir, I enjoyed your write up on using Armaflex for insolating the hull of your new FPB. Why did you use only 1/2" Armaflex on the hull for insulation? If you were planning to be in the Northwest most of the time, would you have used 1" or 1 1/2"? Did you equate an R-value for 1/2" Armaflex when compared to PF? Thanks, Dex

I am getting ready to install a heat/air conditioning unit in my Sabre 42. I recently installed an Adler/Barbor 12 volt refrigeration unit with a water cooling option. I am wondering if I could use just one thru hull to supply both units. If I remember correctly, you used a manifold arrangement, with one thru hull, to supply water to several items on the Sundeer 64.

We want to leave from San Fransciso (we are based in Sausalito) and sail to Japan, then spend a year visiting the islands of Japan. Aside from Jimmy C’s Cruising Routes, do you know of any articles/people that might be a good source of info?

Most of what I see on the Net is from Japan to the USA.

No, we don’t have a fast vessel; I have read of your philosophy and I agree with it in principle, but we love our boat – a Shannon 43 ketch, with mizzen staysail rigging – but what advice/ resources might you pass along? Many thanks, David and Kathryn S.

Hello, Do you have any information on a book called “The Wind Calls”, by Carlton Mitchell (I believe). The author wrote about his adventures with several yachtsmen, including my father, Paul Hurst, who owned “Staghound”, a 42 foot Alden ketch. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hi. I have a question about shipping SOLAS Flares. I have recently purchased a boat in France (An Amel Super Maramu Millennium “Liahona”) and have been shipping equipment etc. to La Rochelle, France, to outfit the boat. However, I can’t seem to find a way to ship the $500 worth of Pains Wessex flares that I have purchased. Nobody will take them because they are categorized as class 1.4A and 1.3A explosives per their MSDS documentation. Surely somebody has figured out a way to get flares to foreign countries for cruising. I have even contacted Pains Wessex and though they have tried to be helpful I have still run up against the wall (even when trying to ship them by ocean freight). Any help you might provide would be appreciated. (PS this is one of the few questions that I have that I couldn’t find an answer to in your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia). Sincerely, Gary

Hi: My name is Mike, and I am thinking about buying a boat and sailing Central America. I have several questions:

Is it better to offer myself as a crew member willing to work for room and board or is it better to go solo? How do I find out about navigating, sailing, which places are safe or unsafe? What is a good size boat to travel on if I was to make a ocean crossing?

I know these are somewhat vague questions, but if you could guide me in the right direction, I would be most appreciative. Thanks, Mike

Hello, I am wondering if you have any experience with Whispergen generators. I have read their information and they sound very good, however I have not met anyone who has one to get a first-hand story about their efficiency. Hope you can help. Brent

Hi Steve, What kind of sailing instruments (do you recommend) for my 52′ sloop? My builder says he’s found Raymarine to be more reliable than B&G. And my electronics expert wants me to use B&G. Do you have any preference? And why? Or there is always Occam, but everybody seems to say to use B&G instead. Many thanks, Mac

Dear Steve and Linda: Your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia was extremely helpful to me when I was outfitting my BCC “Calliste” for extended cruising in 1998. Currently in Tin Can Bay, Qld., Australia, on hard stand, repairing a gelcoat failure and discovering other maintainance problems as well.

I have removed her two ss water tanks and was using a welder’s Ss pickling paste to remove the rust that developed around the welds on the outside of the tank. This revealed some deep pitting in some places, what looks to be a depth about half the thickness of the metal. Having trouble on deciding what to do, got any ideas to pass along ???

Have been enjoying your web site and will continue to do so, when we depart OZ. Sincerely, Douglas

I have agonized over this problem for months now. Boy, if you could give me some insight on how to resolve this dilemma I would be most appreciative. In your first Encyclopedia you made reference to the use of a high-output DC genset coupled to an inverter for the AC. Our AC load is small and quite manageable. The largest load is hot water and the reverse cycle AC (both about 10 running amps). Intermediate use items are hand tools, microwave, nicad charger, 13 in. TV. So, my selection logic to date goes something along the lines of: Weight: 3.5 kW AC genset is ~280 lbs.; Fischer/Panda DC unit or Balmar Unit 200. This thing is going in a Hans Christian Christina 40. So, space and weight are of a concern. Fuel Consumption: The DC units seem to have a logic control to throttle back the engine depending on the load. I’m not certain if the AC units are loaded up regardless of the AC load on the generator. So, if you are not running at capacity, is your fuel consumption less than full-load?. I’m guessing that the 3.5 kW AC units consume about .3 GPH. Inverter: Regardless of the genset choice, you’ll want one. Unless you want to fire up the genset to heat a sandwich or catch the 6 o’clock news. I’m looking at the Trace 25. It should handle the inductive load of the AC just fine. I am running a house bank of four, 4D AGM batteries. With their low internal resistance they will accept a high rate of replacement charge off a DC unit. So, from your experience in setting up systems, is the 12V genset a good solid technology? Does it do a good job in keeping the house banks up to 13V while running a long term AC load? Any trade-off from one to another that should sway me? Given the above usage criteria, what do you think? Do you cover this subject in more detail in the Encyclopedia second edition? All the best and thanks in advance for your time, Kevin McGreevy

Steve: Just read your excellent article in the recent issue of Ocean Navigator, concerning heavy weather steering issues. We just placed an order for a 43′ Hallberg-Rassy, and I’m curious to learn what you think of the “beefiness” of its steering system. It has Whitlock wheel steering, with Cardan linked rod steering. Do you think this meets your recommendation for “twice ABS specifications”? Thank you for your help! Mike B

I have a compaq laptop (slow & old, but OK) and use weatherfax from J.E.Hoot to receive weathercharts and forecasts.

I have difficulties to find the best frequencies for the mediterreanean and I always seem to miss the timing. Any suggestions as to the software, or the emitting station?

Frederik

P.S. I enjoy your Mariners Weather Handbook and CD.

What effect is there on propeller performance and vibration when fitted in the opposite rotation to that recommended by the boat builder?

I just purchased a 9 year old Grand Soleil Maxi One (19.5m) and am having a lot of problems with engine & MaxProp giving a lot of very bad vibrations and engine not being able to obtain correct cruising revs (should be about 2700/2800 rpm–and getting black smoke when revving above 2200rpm).

Obvious answer is the prop is over pitched. However, on checking with MaxProp rep here in Athens, he just serviced and refitted the prop with 20 degs with right rotation. According to the Manual on board from the builders (Canteir del Pardo) the prop should be 14 degs–Left Rotation.

Of course the over pitching of the prop answers the problem of the engine not revving etc, but would the wrong rotation cause increasingly bad vibrations the more rpm’s applied?

I need some urgent advice because the incorrect running of the engine over the last 8/9 years (by previous owner) has caused all sorts of problems including overheating, broken pipe in heat exchanger and blown gasket leading to water into the cylinders and turbo etc on my recent outing with service engineers on board testing the engine after service. Thus, decided to put new engine as do not want to have further trouble/time/expense of trying to renew/overhaul existing engine.

Obviously have to find also a solution for the bad vibrations, but I cannot get Maxprop or del Pardo to reply to my emails and faxes.

I have recently seen a Macgregor 65 which has been set up for cruising for two people with a smaller rig and deeper draft. I am wondering if you have any knowledge of the capabilities these boats have for cruising. This boat has only been used for cruising the West Coast of America and Baja. Hope you can help. Thanks in advance. Bye for now. Brent G.

PS – I would be using this boat mostly for cruising between Australia and New Zealand and to the South Pacific Islands.

I got a Hylas 44 surveyed as part of my purchase of that boat. I want the boat (1989) to take it to the South Pacific with my wife. Do you know that design? Do you think is a good boat for that trip? Thanks!

I have for two years been cruising my Hylas 46, and have realized it is not the boat I need to continue cruising. I believe one of your Deerfoot series, ideally a 61 would serve me better. Do sellers go solely to brokers or do they sometimes ask if you know of a prospective purchaser? Do they often come on the market? I realize the last question is probably often asked and a generalization is difficult. If you have the time to reply I would appreciate it.–Mike Parker

My husband and I have taken the first steps toward the cruising life–we just sold our home and are auctioning off our possessions one by one. It fills me with joy and relief each time our load is lightened! We have been reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia (fabulous book–great for the utter novice) and would like your advice if you have time.

We are going to be in the same situation as your daughter and her friend were in when they bought Hio. The main difference is that we completely lack any sailing experience, although my husband has been an avid commercial fisherman for years. We were wondering if you could recommend several production models or a good boat surveyor in the San Diego area so we’re not totally at the mercy of our ignorance.

We have about 45,000 to spend on a boat and we’re hoping to get a 40-50 foot boat. Our priorities are ease of sailing, safety & stability in rough weather, and efficiency. We plan on spending at least a year or two in the Baja area learning to sail and fixing up the boat before taking it offshore. We will have about 5,000 to spend on equipment and repairs so we don’t mind getting a “cosmetically challenged” boat.

Any suggestions or advice would be great! Thank you for the inspiration :)–Erin

Dear Mr. Dashew: A few years ago, I bought your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and found it most informative. For the past 3 years I have been building a Baltek Superlite balsa/epoxy 50′ Simonis-designed catamaran here in Johannesburg, South Africa. We have never sailed or owned a boat before, and every day we find new challenges and unique problems that we have to overcome. We are building this boat 600 kilometers from the nearest port with no experienced folk anywhere in sight. Despite these handicaps, so far I think we have managed pretty good, and day by day we are getting closer to our dream. We are now close to finishing the hull, deck and bulkheads. After this we will then commence with the deck hardware and internal fitting.

The purpose of my email: I cannot find any readily available information either in your book or elsewhere on the Internet providing details regarding the rope to winch (Lewmar – self tailing) angle. I am referring to the genoa rope – at what angle to the winch drum should this rope connect? I would imagine that the rope should meet the drum at about 90 degrees – but I am not sure.

You must be extremely busy but your advice will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Wiets W

Gentlemen: For years we have been setting our headsail on a roller furler and, once tightened to the desired deployment, have simply cleated the jib halyard off to remain at the same tightness until we changed the headsail. It has been suggested that the jib halyard should be loosened when the boat is not in use, to be tightened again when the jib is deployed. Are we doing any significant damage to the standing rigging, the roller furling gear or the luff of the jib/genoa by failing to release the halyard when the boat is not in use? Thank you. J.P. Anderson

Hi, I am about to order a flat – code 0 – asymetric set on a prodder for a Grainger 8m Trimara. What sheet angle should I go for? The few web pics I have seen for this have the sheet projecting to above half way of the luff, not half way – which would be correct for a genoa? I will have the block for the clew on an athwardship traveller, but there is no fore and aft adjustment. The sail angles are likely to be 80 – 40 aparent. Many thanks for your input, Simon

Hi Dan: One of our friends has a ketch-rigged Deerfoot 72, and he is the process of getting new sails for her in New Zealand from the North loft. She has somewhat less than half the stability of Beowulf, and her rig is less aggressive in terms of potential for roach (she has standing backstays on both spars). I would like to get your comments on the pro's and cons of the different fabrics which have been offered. Regards–Steve

I am supporting a friend on his sailing trip though the Pacific Ocean. He is trying to find a way from Tuamotu Islands to Hawaii. Actually he planned to go via Marquesas Islands, however, easterly winds (in gusts up to 45 knots) still make it impossible to sail this route. I fea, the only way to reach Hawaii is to go the long way right north.

I have been told that you have some experience in travelling to Hawaii "the wrong way" – against trade winds. Is there a possibility to get some usefull information from you? Maybe he could call you directly via his satellite phone?

Thanks in advance for your reply. Manfed Ziegler

In the Dashews’ book, in a chapter on self-steering, they make a comment on sheet-to-tiller self-steering. Would it be possible to have more details on the how-to-do-it?. Thank you. Claudio

Hi Steve, As part of researching for a suitable boat I’ve read the articles about keel and foil design at www.vacantisw.com as well as your description of using a NACA 0000 foil shape with a 15% foil section in Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. Can you tell me in general terms how much a foil shaped keel improves boat performance compared to one that has no foil, ie. the sides of the keel are parallel? Is this difference enough to warrant keeping away from boats without foil keels? Thx, DM

Dear Steve & Linda, I have read both your books several times. How can anyone read the same stuff over and over? I can, if it is as interesting and informative as your books. (Especially the Encyclopedia). I just sold my O’Day 40 and I am preparing to sell my business. After the business is sold, I want to buy the last boat that I will own. ( I am 57 years old, & I want to do some serious cruising) I love the Sundeer 67, but I do not know if I will be able to afford it. Are you still building boats? If so, can you give me a ballpark price of both the Sundeer 56 & 67(built in aluminum). If it is not in the realm of my ability, then I will go in a different direction. If you are not building anymore, can I purchase the plans? Thank you. Tony

Hello Dan, great service and answers, thanks.

We have a FP Belize 43 catamaran, and the fully battened main is attached to a track that is fitted into a track on the mast. We have recently been transatlantic and on arrival in the Caribbean found the cars badly worn, two of the end caps the battens fit into (mast end) broken in half, and the bearings of the cars mostly missing. On inspection the track running up the mast was worn heavily where the cars park when the main is fully raised.

We have had new cars sent out but do not want this to happen again. Does the track need replacement? How is this done (excuse our ignorance)? How do we prevent this problem? The boat is 3 years old. Best regards, John Jones

I am in the last stages of purchasing a new Catalina 400mkII. The only remaining issue is furling main or standard. The boat will either be in Charleston SC or Oriental NC. 99% of my sailing will be coastal cruising, shorthanded or fairly inexperienced crew. I’ve chartered for 25 years but this is my 1st owned boat and I’ve never used a furling main. Your advice please

Steve – I am preparing to install an anchor windlass on my light displacement 43′ sloop. Primary anchor is a 45# CQR with 75′ of 3/8 HT chain + 250′ 5/8" nylon rode. Secondary anchor is a Fortress FX-37 with 25′ of 3/8 HT chain + rode. I will carry a 100# Luke storm anchor. My question is how to manage multiple anchor lines/chains with a single windlass. I would prefer a low profile vertical windlass to keep weight down and stay out of the foredeck crew’s way when racing, and am willing to live with rope/chain splice and redoing same when any splice wear starts to show. But I do not believe this will enable handling two anchor rodes? Adding a drum to the vertical windlass will handle the second rope rode, but not the chain. What do you suggest? Thank you. – Bill

Hi Steve: I’m interested in rigging a timer to my anchor light so I don’t burn it during the day when I’m away from the boat. Are you aware of any 12V timers I could put in the line to the light or another way to skin this cat? Thank you, Tom

Hi Steve, Absolutely the best investment I have made before going full time cruising is your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. However I am hoping you can elaborate on one small statement that I keep coming back to, and it has a major bearing on the type of yachts we are looking at purchasing. As you’re aware, there are many more fibreglass boats to choose from, even in the South Pacific where steel is reasonably popular choice. Which seems to confirm your statement that "on average 1 in 12 yachts that spend more than 2 years in the South Pacific basin ends up on a reef permanently". As I am looking at the South Pacific, the Great Barrier Reef, and the archipelago of Western Australia’s Kimberley Coast – much of which is still not charted – as the areas we most wish to spend our time. I had resigned my looking to steel or aluminium yachts, however I have found a strongly built balsa cored 40′ cruising yacht that I particularly like, but I keep thinking about those reefs and rocks. Any more information you can give me or direct me to in helping me make a decision on whether to buy this yacht or keep looking would be very much appreciated. Regards, Peter

Greetings to you from Vanuatu…We are leaving Paradise in December to return to NZ to find a boat to go cruising for the next three to five years. All going well, we will do a circumnavigation. We are interested in steel boats and I was wondering if you could recommend the best book I could read on steel construction techniques–with a view particularity to proven or recognized standards. Also, do you know of a good steel surveyor in Auckland who could give us an opinion on one boat in particular that we are interested in at present. The reason I ask is because we have had several opinions so far and they are all conflicting!!! Many thanks for your help. Keep up the good work! Gary

I have the opportunity to replace the spars (2) on my boat. It is a 1975 Custom 45′ Steel boat built in Italy (round chine). It has a flush deck. I have been using your encyclopedia to spec out the spars but I’m not clear on your opinion of anodizing Vs painting. To have my spars anodized (about 55 ft worth) will require a mechanically fastened joint. (tanks not long enough for the whole spar). Cost- wise, it’s about a wash. What’s your opinion?

I appreciate your help as I’m a new boat owner and a novice sailor. Your book has been a great help to me and I think the spar maker has learned a few things as well. I’m looking forward to your next book (heavy weather sailing). It sounds good from the ad. Have you thought of making a training film on the subject? Thanks for your help, Steve. Regards, Buzz

I’m looking for basic info on what can be done with the SSB and the working frequencies. I’ve been told that only ham frequencies may reach all locations for example in the South Pacific Any place I can learn about pros and cons? Thanks George

Hi Steve, I’m 6’4" tall and am wondering how soon I would begin to curse the day if I purchased a boat with less than 6’6" headroom. Would you suggest that I limit myself to designs having full headroom, probably in the 45 to 50 foot range, or does your experience indicate that I could adjust to 6’2" headroom and therefore be able to consider designs in the 40 to 45 foot range. Obviously no point in buying something I’m going to hate, so this is a critical question for me. Thx, David

Hallo Linda and Steve: My name is Barbara. My family, it mins my husband and nine years old son, plan to spend a large part of ours lifes on yacht. So our new home is being built and we have some questions how to make living on yacht more comfortable. I bought your book but I did not find few answers:for example, if is it a good idea to make leather seats, what fibres are the best on beds. I will be very greatfull if you help me. Barbara from Poland

Hi – I am looking to set up for some long-term cruising but am a total novice, even at 50! I currently live in Madeira but have worked around the world in the IT industry for IBM, including South Africa, USA and Europe, so am totally comfortable in most places.

The questions: 1. Given the recent weakness of the dollar I would imagine the USA is a good place to buy a used boat (as opposed, say, to Europe). Is this perception correct?

2. If it is, where is the best place/s in the USA to buy, from the point of view of choice in the purchase and the setting up to cruise? (I am also assuming the USA is the best place to set up given access to technology etc.)

3. How long will it take me to do the courses that will take me from novice (all I have is an EU Local Skipper license with no sailboat experience) to ocean-ready?

4. Where is the best place to do these courses, from the point of view of quality, professionalism and enjoyment?

5. The one cost item I have no idea of is insurance for the yacht. Is there a rough guide to this (eg. annual cost per $’000)?

6. What is the best investment I can make now in terms of getting prepared? (Books, Internet research, ???)

Really appreciate if you can help me. I know that some of the questions are probably not directly answerable, but if you could point me in the right direction.

Thanks and Regards, John

Due to our professions, we both have wonderful retirement plans through state and county governments. However, we do NOT have enough cash to pay off the boat— not even close— before we leave. So, the question is: Do people go cruising while still making payments on their boat? Do any lenders allow this? We don’t want to ask our lender just yet because we don’t want to set off any alarms. Does anyone know of any lender that does allow you to take you boat out of the country? We have direct deposit of our paychecks each month, and the payment can be taken directly from the account.

Hi. we’re leaving Ft. Lauderdale, FL. for Charleston, SC, on Thursday; then in about 5 weeks headed for Norfolk VA. Any idea which marina around Norfolk/Hampton makes most sense to leave the boat at (8’4 Draft) from a convenience/security point of view? Regards Phillip

We are planning a circumnavigation with our 3 young children in the near future. We’ve read various accounts of pleasure boats encountering pirates around the world. Is there a place to find the listings of the worst areas, so we can try to avoid them, as much as possible? I know there will be some areas with problems that will be unavoidable during a complete circumnavigation, but I’d like to minimize that risk as much as possible. If it were just the two of us, that’s one thing, but to expose young children to that kind of terror concerns me very much. I’d really like to find out just how likely we are to encounter them. I probably sound paranoid, but figure the more info the better!

Also:

I was told there was a family of five (or 6?) currently doing a circumnavigation on their 60 foot sailboat, and that they were posting details of their voyage on your website (and that they welcomed correspondence). We are planning to do the same thing in just a couple years, with a Morgan 41. We have 3 young children also, so would be very interested in hearing about someone else traveling with young kids.

Thank you for your time!–Anne

Hi. We’re about to install rigid (as opposed to flexible) solar panels on our Cal 3-46: looking at a number of options for placement: atop dodger, atop Kato davits at stern, swiveled at side rails–any comments about optimum placement and subsequent sailing/safety issues? Thanks, Glenys

Steve, In your BEOWULF PDF, and in the Cruising Encyclopedia you mention an exhaust pyrometer. For small Diesels—30 to 60 HP, wet exhaust—what kind, brand and range of temperature, sensor and display do you recommend? At what temperature should the alarm sound? Should I fit it closest to the exhaust manifold or closest to the muffler? Thanks for your constant support, Igor

Where can I find more information about “pillow block bearings” that you mention in your book Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia under the section on Mega Alternators (page 870).

We have a Northern Lights 8kw genset aboard and I would like to mount a high output alternator on the unit. Presently we seldom place much of a AC load on the unit and by placing a big alternator on it we could “kill two birds with one stone”; charging our battery banks as well as providing AC needs and placing a reasonable load on the engine.

The folks at Northern Lights were not overly excited about this idea (side load on the front seal and bearings). Space constraints do not allow for an opposing “slave pulley” to offset the side load of the proposed alternator.

I noticed in your book a reference to a “pillow block bearing” which alleviates the side load problem. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Fantastic reference book. Thank You, John and Deanna

I am looking for a source where I can purchase some battery hydrocaps. Steve Dashew talks about them in his Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia?–Lutz

Steve, Do you know of any good buys on a weather fax? Thanks, Don P

Dear Dashews, I have been very impressed with all three books I have ordered and read, Surviving the Storm, Mariner’s Wx Handbook, and Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia…I would really like to relate more to the weather and practice more with the reading of 500mb and surface charts. I am not very good in tracking these down on the Internet even with the use of the wx links in your web site. Could you please suggest which site will offer me the best data for the 500mb and surface charts? I really do not care if it covers one particular part of the world because I would like to be able to study areas around the world with the worst wx at that time so as to relate the forcast info with what is actually occuring. Thanks, Silas

I wonder if you have any opinion on electric propulsion? I am considering re-powering with a Solomon system. I have a 30hp Westerbeke diesel at this point. I am cruising full time with lots of hours at anchor. Comparing prices, diesel/electric, is a definite apples/oranges situation, with the result being that I may decide based on my dislike of the internal combustion engine. Certainly would appreciate your reaction to the this concept used in a cruising sailboat. Ross

We are considering buying a Gulfstar 47 Sailmaster and are interested in your comments concerning the Sailmaster 50. I.E. that it was never intended for world cruising and its lack of performance. Friends that own these 47’s claim the boat sails great (at least the sloop rig) and it does quite well in heavy weather. Any comments regarding sloop versus ketch rigs? Please be specific about why you feel this way as I’m very interested in this boat – as you said, there is massive space and livability.

I am looking at a 63′ 1985 aluminum hull Deerfoot. Could you tell me more about her? Thank you Bruce

A quick review of your recommended cruising boats was interesting, but I was surprised to see the absence of the Tayana 42, 48, 52, and 55. I mention this as many brokers have said they are desirable, well-built cruising boats with reasonable pricing. While the designers encompass Harris(42) , Perry(48&52) and unknown(55), your comments are appreciated. I’m sure you have come across these boats. I omitted the Perry designed 37 Tayana as it has a bowsprit. Thank you, David

I would like to find and visit a Lancer 65 powersailor. They are rare and hard to find. Your recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!–Lew

I am restoring a 1980 Cheoy Lee 44 Ketch. She currently has wood spars. I have been considering having a taller main aluminum mast made with a longer boom and removing the mizzen all together, running her as a sloop. Is this possible? P.S. Love your books!! Best Regards, Larry

In Steve & Linda Dashew’s 6Sept 2000 report they discussed new sails and closed with a comment that they had gone for a single-line reefing system–“details in a later bulletin”. I don’t recall seeing such an article–either in the logs or in Tech Talk. Did I miss it, or is it still to come? Regards, Mike

Please excuse my ignorance; but in your article about full batten mainsail, what the heck is UHMW?

Dear Linda & Steve, Thanks for your really interesting Weather Handbook, which we began reading. It will certainly take some time…Together with our local sailmaker we are constructing an extra-roached mainsail, which will be ready in spring (this is not California). However, he did not know where to get UHMW fabric to protect this sail from chafe. Can you give us some help, maybe another name for that or a company which sells this stuff in the old world? Many thanks in advance.

Do you have a good book on singlehanding? Singlehanding a catamaran? I have my bareboat certificate, recognize that there is much I must learn before undertaking a long solo cruise, am inclined to get a cat. And go from Med across Atlantic, through Panama Canal, up Mexico coast, anchor somewhere for some months. Please advise. Thank you, Jeff P

Dear Steve, I have just finished your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia. What a book!! It is now on my bookshelf next to Calder, Marchji and Brion Toss – sitting with the greats!! Just a quick question though. You make no mention of wind-vane steering. Have you never fitted this or do you rely totally on electronic autopilots? Thanks, Howard, Cape Town, South Africa

Dear Linda and Steve, We first heard about you two in the Mahina Cruising seminar given in San Francisco this past March by John and Amanda Neal. It was a great seminar and your books were prominently displayed and talked about during their seminar.

We are just about ready to take off for five or so years on a cruising journey which we hope will include the Med, Caribbean and South Pacific. More if time allows. I (Glenn) have been boating/sailing since the age of 12 and am now the ripe old age of 52. I grew up sailing on Puget Sound, the San Juans and Canadian waters and sail/race J-105’s in the San Francisco fleet. The two of us have chartered all kinds of sail and power boats in California, the Caribbean, and Mexico.

Because we understand that you sail on a 78-footer Beowulf, we thought you could help us with a dilemma we are currently experiencing. We are looking to purchase a boat in the very near future. Two boats are under serious consideration. One is a new Hylas 54. The other is a used Farr 63 built in 1999. Both are cutter-rigged, center cockpit pilothouse models. Both are loaded with the latest in nav and electronic gear. Both have in-mast furling mains and a bow thruster. My wife likes the smaller Hylas, thinking that it will be easier to sail shorthanded (just the two of us most of the time). I like the larger Farr which is a bit roomier, has a bit better sailing performance overall and will be more sea kindly with the longer waterline length. The biggest ISSUE is draft. My wife thinks the 9-foot draft on the Farr will keep us away from many tropical locations where we may want to anchor/moor the boat. I say the difference between the Farr’s -foot draft and the Hylas’ 7’2’" draft is negligible and that it would affect less than 5% of the places we’d like to go. For instance, we chartered a Hylas 54 in the BVI and barely were able to join other boats anchored on the south side of Annegada Island where the depth water was 8 feet. We assume the draft on Beowulf is at least 9 feet. Do you feel limited in where you can cruise??

Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated if you have the time to respond. We look forward to using your reference materials. Kind Regards, Glenn and Linda

I am curious what boats you are designing and building other than BEOWULF. I am actually looking for a boat in the mid-40’s and I am dissatisfied with anything currently available on the brokerage market. To complicate things a little my last boat was a cruising pilothouse multihull, Atlantic 42, which I loved but was impractical for Northeast cruising. Regards, Kevin

I have a Hughes Northstar 80/20 ketch with a roller furled mainsail. This is obviously an aftermarket modification, and it is extremely difficult to unfurl and furl. The outhaul and furling lines by necessity are each routed around several blocks (around the boom, down the mast, across the deck, through a block, then to the cockpit) which greatly increases the mechanical
effort required to move the sail. At times we have had to use our large winch and are putting a lot of (hopefully) unnecessary strain on the lines, deck organizers and blocks. Our best efforts have resulted in still about a foot of slack in the outhaul line at the clew. This is my first experience with such a mainsail arrangement and I have no idea what is considered "normal" operation or configuration. In addition, the car to which the outhaul line is attached moved freely on the boom track until I hit on the idea to lock it in place using a second, locking slide. By keeping the car stationary, sail management improved a bit but it still seems to be much harder than it should be and requires two people pretty much dedicated to the mainsail during furling and unfurling. My original plan of sailing the boat shorthanded or singlehanded is now in question until I can resolve this problem.

Dear Steve Dashew, Many thanks for the fine web postings on the new powerboat. I have a question regarding your anchoring setup. How do you maintain the strength of the G7 chain through your shackle attachment to the Bruce? Do you have ACCO install an oversized link and use, say, a 5/8" shackle? Or do you have a source for high-test shackles? I am building a 19m powercat designed by Malcolm Tennant to be launched early ’06. See you in Patagonia! Thank you, Bill

Hi Steve, My name is Ethan Smith. I’ve got the Ovni 36 “Eyoni” across the basin from Beowulf. We spoke briefly before I bought it. I was fortunate enough to receive both the Encyclopedia and Surviving the Storm for Xmas. Yea me. Both a hugely informative and exceptionally well done, my complements. In your anchoring section in the Encyclopedia, you mention moving to high test and a smaller link and making up the difference (or some of it) in anchor weight & rode length. I’m in the process of redesigning the anchoring system on Eyoni and want to know, in your opinion, if 1/4 HT (G-4) is adequate in terms of swl and breaking strength (schedule 70 better?) for a cruising setup for Eyoni? She is of moderate windage and has a design displacement of 12,500 lbs. The boat currently has 200′ of 3/8 PC with is less than ideal. I had initially leaned towards 5/16 BBB or HT – do I sacrifice much by giving up the higher ultimate breaking strength of the (non-HT) larger links? We made it to San Miguel Is. for the first time on our recent 9 day holiday cruise. It was warm and flat as a lake! Thanks for your time and expertise. Hope to see you on the water soon. Sincerely, Ethan

Hi Steve Any suggestions for a leaky goit deck hatch (the one under the vang)…thinking of putting some wet suit neoprene in the gasket…Very annoying, Phil

Giving us most headache in the construction plans for our yacht at the moment is the heads and holding tanks. I have read all your books now and a few others and we will follow your advice, make it as simple as possible. Now there are a lot of heads on the market and the next one is always better than all the others. Please point out one head that you know works and that you have experience from and is simple in construction. I want to pump from head to a holding tank and then be able to choose either pumping out to the sea or to empty the tank at service stations where available. Thanks for your time and all the best to all of you at Set Sail.

I recently looked at a Wylie 34 that is cold molded. I like the Wylie boats and currently own a Hawkfarm 28. The boat appears to be very well built (obviously a survey would be in order before going to far) but I know very little about cold mold boats. I have a friend (another Hawkfarm owner) who is a very experienced racer and cruiser–he seems to think that cold molded wouldn’t be a great choice for a cruising boat due to the difficulty in having quality repairs done if something happened “in the bak of beyond”.

Do you have any opinions on this? If the boat was sound and the design was suitable, would this put you off (I like the idea of aluminum as well but don’t see many in the 35 ft range)?

Hi Steve, Concerning this SSB / Ham licensing requirement, the Ham route seems like an awful lot of archaic work. I plan on cruising and using HF weather fax, perhaps HF e-mail, and talking with people like Herb (Hilgenberg) and perhaps family. Would I still need a Ham license for these types of operations? Still in a state of confusion. Bill

I have several of your books (my wife accuses me of having them memorized). I spent a number of years cruising on a Bristol 32. This boat had hatches oriented only forward. My current boat is a Freedom 33. I am replacing the 4 hatches. The two on centerline on the cabintop I’m planning to replace with double opening hatches (probably Manship or possibly the Bomar Series 100 cast hatches). There are also 2 hatches towards the port side of the cabin top (which is crowned not flat but was built with flat areas for the hatches but slanting upward towards the centerline). One over the head and one over the galley. Currently they open to port (when open the opening is to port). I’m wondering if it would be better to have them open to starboard. Do you have any advice/opinion on this? I was also considering using the Bomar seabreeze offshore hatches for these 2 since they have the unique venting design. Any comments. Thanks in advance for your input. Regards, Alan

Hi Steve (and Linda), Just read your dryer update, that’s too bad it isn’t working well. Have you ever considered using a household gas fired dryer, converted to propane, with a 110 VAC motor and vented? I am considering this route, but have yet to find anyone with firsthand knowledge. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Bill K. from the USA