Hi there. We are currently assisting friends to ready their vessel on which we are crewing for the passage from New Zealand to Fiji. We are installing an ICOM 710 SSB, however, as the yacht is of aluminum construction we have run into the interesting question of how to safely earth the radio. We have had a variety of suggestions made to us but would be keen for your advice. Looking forward to hearing from you. Many thanks, Jan

Do you have any experience or knowledge about using Ericson Safety Pumps for damage control? I’ve searched through your books and only found engine-mounted pumps. The Ericson is a prop shaft-mounted pump that runs dry until it contacts water. I would like to know if there are obvious downside factors to using such a system. Thanks, Frank M

I live in Alaska and have been doing a fair amount of work on refitting our 20 year old fiberglass cutter. Electrical, mechanical etc. I purchased new set of tools dedicated to the boat so it means keeping the tools on the boat.

My problem some of my tools are starting to show signs of tarnish ( early rust ) I use them quite a bit. And put them away after every project. Do you recommend something to keep them from rusting. Wd40? Thanks for attending to this “basic” question.–Mark

I have a Powersurvivor 80 II. On board I go well at 13 liters per hour. I was thinking of upgrading. Do you have any recommendations? I have a 3.5kw inverter (trace) run 230v 50hz and 24 vdc.

Good Morning Steve and Linda: I try to read everything that either of you write and have ALL of the books. However, in sailing TIMING is everything as you know. Vicki and I have a 1998 Valiant 42 built for us in Texas. We have dear friends, Joe and Pam Harris from Durham. They have the Sundeer 60. We are to meet them in Crete in the Fall of 2003.

WHEN SHOULD I LEAVE FOR CRETE AND WHAT IS THE BEST ROUTE? I’m retiring in June of 2003 and will have a lot of time to get there. This might be a good article to look into as I’m probably not the only one to run across this problem. Any books that you recommend will be read. Thanks and keep up the good work–GURU–you’ve never let me down. Roy

Gooday–Looking for a web site dedicated to info on offshore sailing. I am a novice thinking of sailing Victoria, Canada to Mexico then across the Pacific to New Zealand with all the stops. Need to to know the right time of year and all that stuff. Please respond. Regards, Gaz.

Hi, I have an oceangoing motor yacht designed for ocean crossing and heavy coastal work. The weather routing techniques we would use are different from the techniques a sailing yacht would use. For example, we would tend to motor through the middle of a high for calm seas and light winds, rather than try to pick a path around with the strong and steady prevailing winds abaft the beam. How useful is the Mariner’s Weather Handbook for me? I don’t want to pay out that kind of money for a book, only to find that it is predominantly aimed only at sailing yachts. Thanks for giving me your honest view.

I recently looked at a 1972 Hardin Force 50 to purchase. She has seen considerable blue water and appears to be a comfortable liveaboard. Some cosmetic work is needed, along with new sails. While I intend to have a complete survey done, I want to learn what I can about the vessel construction and/or design before jumping in. There doesn’t seem to be much info out there–can you help me? Thanks.

I HAVE NARROWED MY SEARCH…CAL 2-46, CAROFF GALAPAGOS 50 STEEL KETCH, GARDEN PORPOISE 50 OR WELLINGTON 47. I AM GOING TO CRUISE THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR 2-3 YEARS. ALL CAN BE OUTFITTED TO GO FOR ABOUT THE SAME DOLLAR AMOUNT. I LIKE THE LOOKS OF THE WELLINGTON,BUT HAVEN’T A CLUE AS I HAVE NEVER SEEN ONE. I WILL INSTALL MAXSEA-YACHT. PLEASE TELL ME ABOUT WELLINGTON YACHTS AS I CAN’T FIND THEM ON THE INTERNET. ALSO WOULD LIKE TO KNOW YOUR CHOICE OF THE FOUR BOATS GIVEN THAT THEY ARE EQUAL IN ELECTRONICS, SAILS ETC. THANK YOU GARY

A quick review of your recommended cruising boats was interesting, but I was surprised to see the absence of the Tayana 42, 48, 52, and 55. I mention this as many brokers have said they are desirable, well-built cruising boats with reasonable pricing. While the designers encompass Harris(42) , Perry(48&52) and unknown(55), your comments are appreciated. I’m sure you have come across these boats. I omitted the Perry designed 37 Tayana as it has a bowsprit. Thank you, David

Hi, After reading your observations about cats for offshore cruising we have started to rethink the one-year Pacific cruise we have been planning for our family (three adults, two children 11-13 ) starting next July. Any views on a Macgregor 65 as an alternative to a 40ft cat? Being UK sailors we haven’t come across these boats over here. Are they as fast and as tough as their supporters claim? Any comments will be very much appreciated. Thanks for a great site. Hugh & Deb

Hello, In your rigs and rigging section, you mention using the Profurl 4000 free flying furler. Can that furler be set tight enough to work for use up wind sail?

Don Street, in his valuable book The Ocean Sailing Yacht, mentions his using a similar unit some years ago for both jib and staysail and using them upwind, downwind, whatever. High luff tension is vital, of course. I don’t see why these couldn’t be used for all headsails, providing the safety of being able to get the sail down and also being able to easily change sails. Leaving the headstay would provide the backup system for a hanked-on sail. The century-old Wykeham-Martin design still works well for gaff riggers. Can the new flying furlers fill the role for Bermudan rigs?

Thanks, Donal

We are recent owners of a ’67 boat and sometimes find the hoisting/handling of the main to be cumbersome if not downright difficult. What modifications/solutions can you recommend? What of main furling system? Thank you. Best regards, Phil

Aerorig recently sent a request to Steve Dashew for a comment on AeroRig generally and how it worked on Sundeer:

Hi Steve, I read your comments on the North Sail site regarding mainsail roach. Interesting. I know that for my own experience, a full-battened main with considerable roach (a couple of boats ago) improved performance noticeably, and also seemed to keep the boat on her lines in a range of wind angles and speeds.

I am curious about your thoughts on vertical battens for conventional in-mast furling systems.

I am talking specifically about my Hylas 54. It’s a Frers design with a pretty modern underwater shape. I like the way she sails, but feel that the mainsail performance is marginal. I think I am going to change to a system that offers battens and some roach.

What do you think regarding in-boom vs. in-mast systems? In-boom seems to offer better disaster control if the system fails, and can offer full horizontal battens, but the in-mast systems now also offer increased roach and full battens (albeit up and down), and give greater sail shape and twist control with the outhaul. Any thoughts?? Regards, Rich

Hi, I have searched my copy of the Encyclopedia for an answer to this question and not found it. My wife and I learned this past summer while chartering a 34′ sloop in the San Juan’s that the boat was just not big enough for us. So we have started taking out larger boats (up to 46′ so far). However, we are finding that many are not set up for shorthanded sailing by a couple over about age 50, especially in Monterey Bay outside of Santa Cruz.

We have been considering the kind of equipment we want on our future “own” boat, and have been looking into electric and hydraulic assisted sail and rig handling equipment (winches, vangs, backstays, etc.).

My concern though is about backup in case of hydraulic and/or electrical system failure. I have figured backups for the electronic gear, but have not found information on how to backup these major “muscle assisting” systems. I am interested in your thoughts. Thank you, Jim

I currently have a six man Switlick offshore life raft. My boat is in West Palm Beach Florida and I would like to find a reliable inspection station to inspect and service my life raft in preparation for an offshore passage. Can you recommend any stations that do this in that area?

Steve at SetSail, I’ve experienced significant weather helm sailing my 50′ custom design cruising catamaran in winds 12-15+ knots. When entering an inlet in confused tidal currents, the helm is heavy and the vessel slow to respond under power. A growing concern among my designer, sailmaker, rigger and a couple of experienced sailors who’ve been aboard is that the rudders are undersized and/or unbalanced. Can you recommend any source(s) to help me understand more about rudder design and performance? Kind regards, Jim

Typically, in a race such as the Global Challenge, do you think it best to avoid the severest of the weather by working one’s way to the safer side of the fronts, or is it quicker to just batten down and ‘go for it’ ? I look forward to hearing from you . – Chris

Hello! The subject of Multihulls vs. Monohulls is a hot one, and is likely to continue to be. 🙂 However, there is one designer who has put online a very good paper on multihull seaworthiness. It is, of course, true that he is a catamaran designer, so the criticism may be the paper is biased, but it is very technical in nature, and I find (having an engineering background) reasonably complete and suited to the informed lay reader.

The article on your site I am referring to is: Multihulls.

John Shuttleworth’s article on multihull seaworthiness is here: http://www.steamradio.com/JSYD/Articles/NESTalk.html

I believe that your opinions may be swayed by his treatment. As always, seaworthiness is as much a function of the crew as of the boat, but a good crew with a bad boat can only go so far. I was very timid about the idea of multihulls and blue water, but decided I would research it before making up my mind. What I found were many good sources of experience reports (MultiHull Voyaging by Thomas Firth Jones for example) which finally convinced me that multihulls, designed correctly, could be as seaworthy in blue water as a well designed monohull, if not more so.

I have heard a bit about storm tactics and multihulls, and the one thing I have heard that I do not know if you have mentioned (not having purchased your book yet) is using a large para sea anchor. I am told that using a very large para anchor, head-to the seas, creates a slick much like the one one gets with a keel boat that is properly hove-to. The idea is to use the para anchor at roughly a one wavelength distance from the boat. This saps the waves power as it comes towards the boat and will then rarely, if ever, break across the bow. Since swell cannot capsize a boat, it stands to reason that this would be a very good tactic.. a sort of heaving-to for a multihull. The para anchor should be something like at least 75% of the beam. I have heard that 28 foot, nylon para anchors are most common, being able to be gotten from other sources than custom. Have you heard of this tactic?—Timothy

1) What are your thoughts on the merits of roller-furling mains, especially the leisure furl boom systems which allow a better cut main with full battens?

2) Center-cockpit boats–Is the benefit of a better aft cabin and a small afterdeck worth the wetter, more motion at the helm that results from being higher up and more forward?

Dan: I am considering purchasing an ex-bareboat Jeanneau 51. One of my requirements is that the vessel be suited for passagmaking including windward ability. My strongest reservation about this particular model is the standard in-mast furling rig.

If you were designing a sail inventory to take this vessel back and forth from Newport to St. Lucia each year, what would your choices be? Fullbatten main (Spectra or Dacron?) how many battens & reefs?, Code 0 ? Staysail on removable stay?, #2 on separate furler? Thanks, Richard

Steve… I have your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia and I have almost finished building this 35′ steel sail boat. I’m having a little trouble sizing the prop…Boat is 9.5 tons…engine is Farymann 32 HP…Prop is 16×13, 3 blade… Max. RPM under no load conditions is 2400. Max. RPM in forward is 2100 at max hull speed of 7.5 kn…reduction of transmission is 2:1. Should the max. R’sPM under load be closer to 2400?… Should top speed be reached before 2100?… I hope you can help with this … Thanks–Basil

We have purchased a Stevens 47 and the stern Danforth anchor has all webbing rode stowed on a reel. Do you have any knowledge of the adequacy of this rode? How does it stand up to UV? It has been coiled for probably years and never used as far as I can tell. – George

Hello Steve and Linda…again my compliments on the Encyclopedia…it is most helpful…Just having difficulty understanding how to rig the shock absorber described on p40 for the chain anchor rode: how do you “tie” the nylon line to the chain…seems like it would slip with any kind of load…does it take a special knot? What about feeding the line through a selected link, say halfway down the chain such that both ends of the line then secure on deck? Wouldn’t this have the same effect as your tied rig without then having to secure the line on the chain twice? thanks mucho, Richard

Hi Steve, What do you use for deck fills on an aluminum deck? Are the Marelon fills a good choice, or aluminum (Wilcox-Crittenden) welded on? Could I just weld in pipe with threaded ends and put a cap on the outside (keeps the opening off the deck)? Also, would you let bails for halyard/reef blocks through the deck and weld top and bottom, or do you think there’s enough strength in a fillet weld to hold it on the deck? Best, Alex

Giving us most headache in the construction plans for our yacht at the moment is the heads and holding tanks. I have read all your books now and a few others and we will follow your advice, make it as simple as possible. Now there are a lot of heads on the market and the next one is always better than all the others. Please point out one head that you know works and that you have experience from and is simple in construction. I want to pump from head to a holding tank and then be able to choose either pumping out to the sea or to empty the tank at service stations where available. Thanks for your time and all the best to all of you at Set Sail.

I have the opportunity to replace the spars (2) on my boat. It is a 1975 Custom 45′ Steel boat built in Italy (round chine). It has a flush deck. I have been using your encyclopedia to spec out the spars but I’m not clear on your opinion of anodizing Vs painting. To have my spars anodized (about 55 ft worth) will require a mechanically fastened joint. (tanks not long enough for the whole spar). Cost- wise, it’s about a wash. What’s your opinion?

I appreciate your help as I’m a new boat owner and a novice sailor. Your book has been a great help to me and I think the spar maker has learned a few things as well. I’m looking forward to your next book (heavy weather sailing). It sounds good from the ad. Have you thought of making a training film on the subject? Thanks for your help, Steve. Regards, Buzz

Under your “Communications at Sea” section under SSB Ground Plane you recommend the referenced antenna due to it not requiring a ground plane. Unfortunately, the marine electronic installers in my area tell me they are not familiar with this type of antenna. For example, is it a simple whip antenna? If so, how long? Can you recommend a vendor that sells this product. Thank you. Downing

Steve, I’ve been reading your great site and wanted to ask a few questions/make a few comments. With ventilation systems (including conditioned air)? You don’t seem to use ducted systems, is there any reason for this? In my experience (non-marine), dual 6-inch (15cm) ducts would be adequate for the living area sizes you have. I’m not thinking of round ducts, but more a box section mounted in the ‘eaves’ area. Your thoughts? – Craig

Good afternoon. This may be totally off the wall. But, would there be much of a use for a small metal lathe in a cruising situation? For making spare parts for my boat or better yet, making parts for other boats and getting paid for it? Thanks for any insight you will provide. David

A few of your contributors mention writing articles as a source of periodic income while cruising. We have the option of submitting to some non-English periodicals and it seems to be a less saturated market. My question is, how much does one expect to get paid per article? If on contract to a specific publication, what is the nature of such a contract? If freelance, do you just send your article to a few publications and then wait (maybe months or years) to see if it gets published and they send you a check? Thanks, Aharon

One day I would like to own a BEOWULF class boat, but in the meantime do you have any info on the music that is played on the BEOWULF video–would like to purchase–thanks-JIM

We are considering starting our cruising lifestyle with a 16 year old female who has 2 years of high school left. Our plan was to retire to a cruising lifestyle after she completed high school and enters college. Due to a possible economic change we may want to start earlier.

Does anyone out there know if you can successfully educate a high schooler during the last 2 years and obtain a high school diploma? If you can, is it very difficult and what about social issues?

Any information would be greatly appreciated for this couple who is anxious to get out there. Thank you for your help. Avarie

How do you get insurance to sail as a couple on BEOWULF? I have friends with a Tayana 52 in Hawaii, who are now kind of stranded because their Lloyds policy requires four crew and the other couple (the guy actually) wimped while they were all headed for NZ. Or do you sail bare (which is what I am doing right now as a singlehander)? -Lesley

Steve/Linda: We have been searching in vain through the net to find a new—as opposed to a collectible—taffrail log. Does anyone still produce these devices or have they gone the way of the buggy whip? Any advice on procuring one would be appreciated. TIM & MELISSE

What do you think about glazing up the pistons with running the engine so much with no load on it (my father is an engineer with a tractor manufacturer!)? Swan says run your engine occasionally up to 3400rpm and get the soot out!! Sounds pretty scary? What do you think? Regards Phillip

I am interested in your experience with paddle wheel versus propeller-driven generators. Also in the deployment of forward-facing propellers similar to the Aquair submersible. How have they been mounted and what kick-up mechanisms have worked? Thanks for your input. I continue to enjoy the Encyclopedia.–Clint Clemens

Dear Steve, Thank you for your last article of weather charts by e-mail from NOAA. Any possibility to have the weather charts for my area River of the Plate (Buenos Aires and Uruguay coast) would be wonderfull. Thank you, and excellent your work for all the cruisers world wide. Best regards, Roberto

Hi, I’m unable to locate a weatherfax for the South African coastline and immediate area. Please advise. Martin.

Do you know of a web site that provides a simple, conventional weather map of North America, with pressure gradients, indications of highs, lows, warm and cold fronts, and especially wind roses in coastal waters? I looked up the links you provide on your home page (for which I thank you) but they seem mostly to be satellite images, which are very interesting but relatively uninformative, or oversimplified crude drawings that show wind directions, but no indications of strength or the underlying causes of the winds, i.e. pressure gradients. It may be that what I seek is there, but I haven’t had time or patience to ferret it out. Perhaps you know of such a site, in which case I’d be very grateful if you could send it to me.

Dear sailor friends, I recently saw a lovely 36 foot Formosa Ketch I am dreaming to acquire and get sparkling again. The woodwork needs some care. The hull looks sound as far as I can see above water. But before I get the boat hauled out, do you know of any problems with this boat, that was apparently built in 1980 in Taiwan, with 1-inch-thick fiberglass. Do you know anything about this type of boat, since I found no information in all my books and very little on the web. Thank you, Helmut S

I agree with the waterline length as being very important…both to speed and comfort. On a limited budget does either a Hunter 54 or a Columbia 50 make sense as a safe and reliable cruising sailboat? Their main sailing areas will be the Caribbean and, hopefully, the Mediterranean. Other options are a Lubbe Voss 42 and a Valiant 40. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ian

Thanks for offering the weather book. It’s an area I’ve struggled to understand well even after passing two FAA written and oral exams on the topic. Hopefully, your book will penetrate more deeply.

Since you began your cruising in a Columbia 50, a SoCal production boat I believe, I’m wondering if you have published anything that *specifically* addresses choosing a production boat for offshore sailing. I realize your Encyclopedia could, in one sense, be considered a treatise on that since it addresses ‘all things cruising and boats’, but I’m looking for something targeted more directly at this topic. Any suggestions? Thanks!

My husband and I have taken the first steps toward the cruising life–we just sold our home and are auctioning off our possessions one by one. It fills me with joy and relief each time our load is lightened! We have been reading your Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia (fabulous book–great for the utter novice) and would like your advice if you have time.

We are going to be in the same situation as your daughter and her friend were in when they bought Hio. The main difference is that we completely lack any sailing experience, although my husband has been an avid commercial fisherman for years. We were wondering if you could recommend several production models or a good boat surveyor in the San Diego area so we’re not totally at the mercy of our ignorance.

We have about 45,000 to spend on a boat and we’re hoping to get a 40-50 foot boat. Our priorities are ease of sailing, safety & stability in rough weather, and efficiency. We plan on spending at least a year or two in the Baja area learning to sail and fixing up the boat before taking it offshore. We will have about 5,000 to spend on equipment and repairs so we don’t mind getting a “cosmetically challenged” boat.

Any suggestions or advice would be great! Thank you for the inspiration :)–Erin

I am installing a small electric anchor winch to hoist and reef my boom furling main, which has a large roach. I would like to have a halyard brake or other device to maintain light, constant tension on the halyard as I haul the sail down to reef or stow completely. If tension varies, the roll loosens and risks jamming against the front of the boom. Who makes such devices, or can one find a rope clutch that has a variable setting that could be used? I don’t care what it is called, only that it does the job I require…Thanks….Lowell

After watching your Offshore Cruising Video, I happened to see a picture of a ketch rigged with junk sails. One reminded me of the other. Is that where you got the idea for the fully battened sails front and rear? I sure do like that combination. Do you think it would work for a 40 ft. boat? What is your opinion of junk rigged cruising sailboats? Sidney

Dear sirs: I’m interested in purchasing a Sundeer 60 and have seen this AeroRig system advertised in one model. Can I have some comments as to the efficiency of this seemingly very simple rig on offshore conditions? Heavy conditions? Your help will be greatly appreciated.–H.J.Argeles, MD

Hello Everybody! I own a Hallberg Rassy 352 located in the Med, and I’d like to pose a question: Do you know a working solution to lower the main while sailing downwind? My sail has plastic tracks inside the mast. Fair Winds, Gennaro

What is the best way to rig the control lines on an ATN spinnaker sleeve?–Robert.

Steve have you ever used a masthead tv camera with pan and tilt to con the boat through coral heads, etc. Thanks Jerry, Venice, CA

Hello Steve, I am planning a single-handed voyage to the Med. and a few years cruising there before a return through the Caribbean and am looking for advice on the ideal self-steering set up for such a trip. So far it seems that a wind vane plus a tiller pilot to assist for motoring is a good choice. This would work well offshore as it allows me to get some sleep in a situation (offshore) where going a little off course doesn’t matter too much. Sailing in the Med however requires more reliable course keeping and my question is whether or not the tillerpilot attached to the windvane will fill the auto pilot needs for this situation. I realize that there is a lot of motoring in the Med.in the summer but when it isn’t calm it is often blowing very hard and I am not sure that the tiller-pilot driving the vane will be up for this in the autopilot mode. I’d be most interested in your thoughts on this. Primary steering on the boat is a wheel. Regards, David

Hi! Is there anyone who could tell me where i could find the angle of limit stability or angle of vanishing for a morgan 382 or a cal 39? Thank you! – Jacques

Dear Sir, I am looking for a good cruising boat with a shallow draft or proven retractable keel design. I have raced in the southern oceans against wind and tide in 67ft steel hull 42 ton yachts and they were superb–but they have 9 ft drafts. I now live in Florida and plan to do some world cruising with my family. However, local water depths can be very shallow. Most of the day boats here have a very flimsy retractable keel (rotating blade hinged on a bolt and lifted on a cable. Many snap their cables and some break their bolts–and they just would not work in severe weather!!). I have heard of a famous 54ft steel ketch, Northanger, which cruises the extreme latitudes and has only 1m draft–but I have no idea of her retractable keel design or other design specifications. Regards Richard R. from the USA

I’ve recently escaped from Saudi Arabia where I’ve been working for the last six years. It’s now time to reclaim my life. I intend to do a few years cruising and am presently looking for a boat. One I have details of is a Venus 46, designer–Salthouse N.Z., built by Dong Sung. I have never heard of this one before, do you have any knowledge or info on these that you could advise me of. My favorite is the Hallberg Rassy 42. How do they compare. I’d be grateful for any info you could provide. Regards, Ian

Dear Dan,

Could you please explain the differences between a gennaker, screecher, code one and asymmetrical spinnaker? Is it possible to have a gennaker cut for reaching and another gennaker for running? What would be your recommended sail selection for a performance 55′ catamaran? Thank you, Chris

Hi: Do you have a contact or web page for these products? Thanks in advance, John

Hello, have a HR46 (40,000 pounds) with 75Lbs CQR; would you replace it with a heavier Bruce or Delta? Will sail to French Polynesia next year…Thanks for your advice, Giorgio

Hi Steve and Linda- First, I wanted to thank you for a wonderfully written and very helpful book. Glad I ordered it and have recommended it to others (including my father who will be ordering a copy for the library he runs at a technical college). Anyway, on page 50 you discuss different anchor chain washdown and cleaning systems to prevent and minimize the junk collected in the chain pipe. Have you considered using compressed air instead of water? It has the benefit of both cleaning and mostly drying the chain in one step. Downside is that it is more noisy than water. While I haven’t tried it in a marine setting, I use this technique very often for cleaning/drying my 1/2″ logging chains on land as I reel them in and stuff them back in their storage drums. It does a remarkable job and my chains last much longer than they used to. I’ve found that anything over 80 lbs does the trick nicely removing the thick mud I build up. Just a thought. – Jeff

Dear Steve, I have bought Your Cruising Encyclopedia & Mariners Weather Handbook from Captain Watt’s in London. I can only say they are a great life work’s to make a boat owner’s life easier with the right kind of knowledge – thank you. Also I met the owners of Condor while they were in Sydney Australia a few years ago – Skip and his wife. What a lovely couple and boat they had built in NZ to your philosophy and design.

I own a 50′ ex BOC open class yacht build in 1986 called Skoiern IV. She is built from aluminum. Because of the problems of toxicity today’s available anti-fouling are not effective without the tin content. I’m considering using a UK product called Copper Shield, using first a coating of epoxy as a primer to protect the hull, then apply the Copper Shield, which is a copper-rich anti-fouling that does not require redoing for ten years plus. My fear is the risk of using copper on an aluminum boat – is it safe? The company said yes it is. Since I would like to solve this problem once and for all, I’m inclined to try it. but I don’t want to find religion with a holy boat…I look forward to your comment, as I will need to redo the boat’s bottom soon. Kind Regards, and keep up the good work. – John

Recently a builder of fiberglass boats said that aluminum as a hull material is way inferior to fiberglass because:

1. Aluminum suffers from fatigue–the older the boat the greater chance for structure failure. 2. Aluminum boats are prone to failure by stress corrosion and weld corrosion.

Based on your research and experience, these statements seem to misrepresent scientific fact. In your book, Offshore Cruising, your thoughts are very clear about the superiority of aluminum for cruising boats. We would be interested in your prospective on items 1& 2 and what the best welding process is for aluminum hulls. Thanks, John and Ruth

I recently looked at a Wylie 34 that is cold molded. I like the Wylie boats and currently own a Hawkfarm 28. The boat appears to be very well built (obviously a survey would be in order before going to far) but I know very little about cold mold boats. I have a friend (another Hawkfarm owner) who is a very experienced racer and cruiser–he seems to think that cold molded wouldn’t be a great choice for a cruising boat due to the difficulty in having quality repairs done if something happened “in the bak of beyond”.

Do you have any opinions on this? If the boat was sound and the design was suitable, would this put you off (I like the idea of aluminum as well but don’t see many in the 35 ft range)?

I’m looking for basic info on what can be done with the SSB and the working frequencies. I’ve been told that only ham frequencies may reach all locations for example in the South Pacific Any place I can learn about pros and cons? Thanks George

Dear Sir, I enjoyed your write up on using Armaflex for insolating the hull of your new FPB. Why did you use only 1/2" Armaflex on the hull for insulation? If you were planning to be in the Northwest most of the time, would you have used 1" or 1 1/2"? Did you equate an R-value for 1/2" Armaflex when compared to PF? Thanks, Dex

Hi, We would like to sail from Florida to Cancun next February. (We have a 47′ Hunter). We would then like to do approx. four eight-to-ten-day trips, using Cancun as a base. We also need to leave the boat at the beginning of March for 2 weeks. Can you recommend where we might look for reputable marinas? All I have found on the web so far is Scuba centres. Also are there any books on cruising in the area? Rgds, Richard

Aloha from the Big Island, We’re going to be cruising the South Pacific for the next few years, and wondered if you have any recommendations for a health insurance company. We’ve enjoyed your books and website! Keep it up. Thanks, Richard and Kelly, s/v Amazing Grace

Hello. I was trying to purchase a copy of "The Ship’s Medicine Chest" that you recommend in the Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia (excellent book BTW!). However, it seems to be out of print. Do you happen to know if there is anything that replaces it or could you recommend something else or is it worth trying to get a used copy if it is not out-of-date? I do plan to purchase the other two medical books you referenced.

I am a landlubber in Indiana who would like to find a boat to crew on for a month or 2 in the South Pacific. I would pay for the experience. Any suggestions for locating a boat that would take on an inexperienced crew member? Thanks, Jeff

Hi guys, I have loved reading your articles and have picked up some good tips. Information I'm after is regardinga 240v fridge-freezer on boats. I am currently building a 50ft powercat – long, light and low-powered – in Australia, and want around 250 liters of fridge and 100 liters of freeze. I have had small 12v fridg- freezer in past boats and while they were great , the bigger setup seems to be a bit cost prohibitive. This boat won't be attached to shore power and I didn't really want to have a genset on board. I have seen high output alternators, great while moving but don't really want to have to run motors just to charge batteries if on the hook for a week. I do plan on having 4 X 100 watt panels to help things allong. Can domestic refrigeration be a viable alternative or should I stay with the way expensive 12v? Any advice would be appreciated

Hi SS–Seems to me a transponder is THE way to be seen by other ships. Can these be fitted legally in the South Pacific? Are there competing manufacturers? Andrew

STEVE, DO YOU SUCK FRESH WATER THROUGH YOUR SALT WATER ENGINE INTAKE WHEN YOU LEAVE IT FOR A MONTH OR SO, OR IS THAT TIME SPAN NOT REALLY A BIG DEAL? WE MAY HAVE TO LEAVE THE BOAT IN BERMUDA AND FLY BACK TO WORK FOR A FEW WEEKS. PHIL

I’ve enjoyed reading through the FAQ’s on your web site. I saw a references to the Yachtsaver “air bag” system to prevent yachts from sinking but their website and phone numbers are no longer in service. Have they been purchased by another company or are they out of business? Are there any other companies with similar products? Thanks, Steve Gentry

Steve: Just read your excellent article in the recent issue of Ocean Navigator, concerning heavy weather steering issues. We just placed an order for a 43′ Hallberg-Rassy, and I’m curious to learn what you think of the “beefiness” of its steering system. It has Whitlock wheel steering, with Cardan linked rod steering. Do you think this meets your recommendation for “twice ABS specifications”? Thank you for your help! Mike B