Steve and Linda write a regular column for SetSailors from wherever they happen to be. Join in as they cruise the world and discuss topics of interest to sailors everywhere. Here you’ll find their articles dating from 1996 to the present. Check back frequently for new articles posted from aboard their FPB 83 Wind Horse.
We are starting to understand the appeal of zero speed stabilizers and gyro stabilization systems for yachts which are boomless. The anchorages which we have visited so far are not what you would characterize as calm. Of course if you have booms and flopper stoppers they are fine.
It is the real world mistakes we have made which form much of the basis for how we do things. For example, the constant worry about 22 hull penetrations in our uninsured fiberglass 50 footer 32 years ago led to a compulsive drive to eliminate these in our own designs. It has been a dozen years since we have kissed anything hard below surface. No more. Today we did a really good job of it.
The photo above and below are the PR versions of where we are at present.
And they are accurate before 1200 and after 2000 hours. The rest of the time, the people and boat watching, not t o mention lessons in naval architecture are wonderful.
We’ve been reading the Paul Theroux’s book on his travels in the Med. “The Pillars of Hercules”. At one point he rails against travel writers who sugar coat reality. Not wanting to fall into that camp we herewith rededicate ourselves to calling it as we see it. Let’s start with exotic Formentara where we have just dropped the anchor.
As we are planning a fall crossing of the Atlantic we’ve been watching the hurricane season develop with interest. According to the long range weather gurus at Colorado State University, the conditions for a very active season are strengthening. These include:
There are all sorts of hints that it is time to leave. The fridge is so full it will hold nothing more, the immediate neighbor is playing with his tiller sans pantalones, and there is a west wind blowing when we are headed east.
Gibraltar is one of those names which rings bells for the cruiser. It is a destination that everyone, sooner or later, would like to visit. So it was with us, and we left the charms of Rota allowing plenty of time to sample this fabled destination. There have been a series of surprises, starting with the traffic in the Straights of Gibraltar.
Rota is the type of cruising locale about which you have to be wary. The town is charming, the marina conveniently located, and the inhabitants friendly. You could easily become trapped by the ambiance and stick around for way too long.
Most photographers who are hardware junkies eventually acquire a small “walk around” camera, something compact to carry when you don’t want the bulk or obtrusiveness of the “real” camera. The problem is that when the big opportunities present themselves the compacts are too slow, don’t have the lower light ability, or other deficits and you miss the shot and vow to always carry the good stuff.
This past week we have been asked three times (by e-mail and in the marina) about the switch from sail to power, and what we thought about it now. Before answering the question some context is in order.
Prior to Wind Horse we had only twice set foot on a stinkpot, both experiences being very short. We loathed power boats, a feeling built up from years of negative interaction. Our sailing yachts, both racing cats in the olden days, and cruising designs more recently, were fast, nimble, and a joy to sail. Beowulf, the 78 foot ketch above and in subsequent photos, was the ultimate high performance cruiser, and crossing oceans aboard her was mostly a pleasure. We enjoyed sailing her agressively as a couple and the challenge of making quick, seamanlike passages, without undo risk, with just two of us aboard, was a big attraction.
The beaches in Spain and Portugal are very accessible to the general public and get a good workout. We try to get in a walk first thing, before it gets too warm, and this morning after lengthy negotiations it was decided to walk along the beach.
In the photo above we are looking over the life raft. If we needed to launch it in a hurry it would take the two of us lifting it over the lifelines (it weights 125 pounds/60 kg). Which is why the middle and bottom life line are lashed in place.
What do you do all day when you are cruising? It is a question we hear a lot. As we are in Rota, Spain, and have temporarily reached a point of full on “relaxation” mode, we thought some insight into what this entails might be of interest.
To begin with Rota is new to us. So we need to get our bearings.
Our recent foray up the Guadiana River was done without benefit of charts. Depths varied from ten to fifty feet (three to fifteen meters) and there was substantial current during parts of the tidal cycle. The current and depth present both navigation and anchoring challenges.
Lets take the nav issues first.
